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Amazing project, very jealous. The go fast stripe is amazing 
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Dec 9, 2020 17:27
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epic bird guy posted:Amazing project, very jealous.  Yes - this car would not be as good without that quality stripe of pure 80's!I insured the car today (£80 per year with the engine swap declared!  ) as I want to be able to test drive it as soon as I get the exhaust and front suspension sorted.I need to sort out some tyres to replace the 34 year old ones currently on there. what is everybody's opinion on black wheels on a black car? I have these incas which I got refurbished and powercoated black last year:  but the original silver wheels are actually in pretty good nick other than some lazily done external balancing weights....
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Dec 9, 2020 18:04
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Fresh silver ones would probably look better than black IMO, but hard to say without seeing it. Usually I think non-black wheels help give a bit of contrast on a black car. Silver or maybe the black ones with a red lip (like an old hot wheels car?) would match the stripes and look 
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Dec 9, 2020 18:32
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A coloured stripe around the wheels would do wonders to break it up visually, you can get strick on rub strips meant for people terrible at parking but they'd be ideal for this.
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Dec 9, 2020 19:12
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Those wheels are epic even if I generally don't like black wheels. But these have a cool rear end "texture". What bolt pattern are those?
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Dec 9, 2020 20:04
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MrOnBicycle posted:Those wheels are epic even if I generally don't like black wheels. But these have a cool rear end "texture". What bolt pattern are those? Incas are 4x114.3, same as my Honda wagon. I've been thinkin' about putting these Swedish shoes it for some time. Here's a thought I came up with to accent the Incas, not sure about it. I stole the color from the stripe but I think they look too busy this way. 
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Dec 11, 2020 17:55
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Too much, just around the perimeter.
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Dec 11, 2020 21:26
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cakesmith handyman posted:Too much, just around the perimeter. 
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Dec 11, 2020 21:44
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looks like adding a colour stripe on black alloys isn't too unusual. I'll chuck one of the black wheels on the car as soon as I can and see what it looks like. I noticed that Moog's lotus on mcm is a black car with shiny black wheels and that looks good! I got the wheels refurbed in black partly because the inca wheels; whilst looking sweet are a total nightmare to keep clean and like to go black on their own pretty quick!. I was also thinking about putting them on my other saabs at the time (red or yellow cars).. heres a c900 I found with mainly black incas. they make me think I should have got the outside polished on mine!  trouser chili posted:Incas are 4x114.3, same as my Honda wagon. I've been thinkin' about putting these Swedish shoes it for some time. I have never seen incas on any other car. please do it! yeah that colour is far too busy. I'm trying to go for simple here! Tomarse fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Dec 12, 2020 |
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Dec 12, 2020 01:09
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More options: Red ring of death  chevrons  chevron  Grey w/ red chevrons  Grey w/ grey chevrons 
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Dec 12, 2020 01:40
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Tomarse posted:
That looks pretty fantastic. If I do them on my wagon they’ll be powdercoated white to match the body. But I’ve always thought if you did a high contrast job around the steps in the right way, then from high angles and at speed they’d act a bit like a lenticular painting.
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Dec 12, 2020 04:13
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Powershift posted:
These two were the best IMO.
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Dec 12, 2020 10:18
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Tomarse posted:Decided to take the plunge and start sorting the rust in the front corner so that I can get the driveshafts refitted and make it move: 4 days later (each of which I probably spent 4-6 hours in the garage) and I'm still going though I can almost see the end now... Making the repair sections here has been really tricky as it is both all boxed in and a weird shape to go round suspension and driveshafts. someone does actually make a repair section but they look poo poo. Made a bottom section and then an upright section while also ensuring that I could get the lower suspension arm to fit properly (M12 threaded rod acting as a placeholder here)    And then made most of the front section and another small repair at the back. I was proud of how round I managed to make the outer driveshaft hole (the inner one is not quite as good!). One small section remaining to make up on the outside.  And cut out the rust here behind where the mudlfap goes   Unfortunately because the rust was so bad I had to go right through the tunnel and I have one bit that also needs welding from the engine bay side and I cant quite get at it from behind without a lift so I think the engine may have to come out again for 10 minutes to let me at it (or the exhaust manifold at a minimum) 
Tomarse fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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Dec 13, 2020 19:58
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Yer a wizard, Harry Looks great.
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Dec 13, 2020 21:14
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Suburban Dad posted:Yer a wizard, Harry I need to learn the spell that turns rust back into metal. Had to take the loving engine back out for the 20th time to get the rear side welded but got it finished today:  and painted it. 2 coats of POR15 and a coat of POR chassis black top coat. This fucker is NOT going to rust again:  have only POR'd the stripped bits of the wheel arch so far. I need to decide what paint I am going to use over the rest of it which has the factory base coat paint left on it as POR is too many ££££  few photos taken today as my 12 month old ebay iphone battery is dying and likes to die when i take photos
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Dec 15, 2020 00:51
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Wow, that's great work.
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Dec 15, 2020 03:48
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Check out Bilt Hamber epoxymatic or whatever it's called. Seems much cheaper than POR-15 and performs really well according to the internet. The Bilt Hamber stuff I've tried has been really good, and the price is awesome.
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Dec 15, 2020 06:16
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Probably a bit late but RS is a good source for the odd electronic component here and there, since they offer free shipping. Literally thousands of choices if you filter the BJT section for NPN, 100V+, through hole. Here's just one example: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/bjt-bipolar-transistors/7390505/ 90p for 10, shipped next day.
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Dec 16, 2020 23:46
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MrOnBicycle posted:Check out Bilt Hamber epoxymatic or whatever it's called. Seems much cheaper than POR-15 and performs really well according to the internet. The Bilt Hamber stuff I've tried has been really good, and the price is awesome. I keep forgetting B+H despite having bought their stuff before. Pomp and Circumcized posted:Probably a bit late but RS is a good source for the odd electronic component here and there, since they offer free shipping. got the other front corner stripped down and sorted over the past 2 days. This one only needed a tiny bit of patching up on the bottom lip of the driveshaft hole and had one small rust hole developing in front of the driveshaft hole which I patched. I have no idea how it wasn't rusty since it was full of sludge/mouse poo poo/gravel.  Now looks like this:  I also wasted about 45 mins drilling out the gearbox linkage pin that had got stuck after being in there for all of 2 or 3 weeks. Fortunately I anticipated this and had already ordered a new one in my last saab parts shipment. With the c900 rubber linkage that I used you can remove the engine and gearbox with a bit of wiggling having only undone the gear lever end such that you can drill it out while not under the car so it could be worse. The first time I did this with the original 99 linkage i ended up having to chop the rubber linkage out under the car before i could remove stuff. Not a great photo but its just a tapered pin with a thread on the small end 
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Dec 17, 2020 00:29
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OMG those Incas would look amazing on some of my Kei stuff...must find a set!!!!
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Dec 17, 2020 01:40
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Today I have remodelled some C900 exhaust sections to fit onto a 99. I have used about £100 of c900 exhaust pipe in total (4 sections). The 99 specific exhaust parts were either NLA or around £150 each.  The backbox is untouched except for having the mounts changed for the ones off the old 99 box The centre section needed shortening, the wiggle at the front then needed modifying and it needed joining to the downpipe i made earlier (which was made from a late c900 short pre-cat downpipe) The c900 backbox will fit under the 99 despite being very different to the original original T shaped box (photo taken after the T intake fell off!):  I bought 2 bolt on hangers and mounted them on bolts drilled through the flat section where the seatbelt mounts go:   I have not quite finished the last section and fully hung the box. The c900 tailpipe section needs a lot more modification than I anticipated to fit as evidently the fuel tank moved slightly and the c900 floor gained a recess for the exhaust which the 99 didn't have - so I can use it up to the loop over the rear axle but then have to remake the entire 4 or 5 foot after that. Tomarse fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Dec 20, 2020 |
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Dec 20, 2020 19:45
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Hung the backbox: Than spent ages making this because it has to wiggle around lots of stuff:   The bend angle at the end of the tailpipe is slightly wrong and I don't like that it is a squashed bend not a proper one - so i might chop this off and replace it later - but it will do for now!  I also went to the post office today and the car is now declared as an historic vehicle and is £0 taxed and MOT test exempt so is now technically* road legal! * It has to be "roadworthy" to be legal.
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Dec 22, 2020 01:39
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Because it now has an exhaust i was able to run it for long enough today to test the electric fan (which works!). It was very noisy to start with and I got worried about the lifters but after a minute or two they worked themselves out Then I noticed a slight fuel leak.. The accumulator diaphram has now fully gone and I had to clean this up:  Fortunately the accumulator is now not required since I removed the K-jet so I was able to scrap this too:  and do this instead:  It runs even better now that it doesn't have air getting into the fuel line. Also - these wheels are definitely going to happen!   I now need to work out just how to get the idle valve working. I'm using a 2 wire PWM valve but nowhere can i find any information on how i test it or setup the max/min % duty values in tunerstudio. Idle is currently about 1800 rpm.
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Dec 22, 2020 20:55
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If any car needed red neon in the arches it's this one. Loving the progress.
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Dec 22, 2020 21:04
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Hmmmm. Going through my datalogs I think my high idle issues might initially be down to other things than the IAC valve. I just realised that I hadn’t ever actually generated a VE table so was on the default. it starts off lean on startup which pushes the idle up and it then escalates. Have just generated a much better one which looks richer at my starting load so might give it a better chance. I also have a slightly open throttle (3% TPS) all the time so I need to modify my cable bracket slightly to get it down to zero. I’ll try starting it with the cable disconnected first.. Also found a YouTube tutorial for setting up the IAC. I didn’t realise I could just tweak the settings live in tunerstudio by clicking off them after changing the value. I’ve been hitting burn and then having to stop/start the car every time. cakesmith handyman posted:If any car needed red neon in the arches it's this one. Loving the progress. While I’ve got all the interior out there is great access to run wiring....
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Dec 23, 2020 02:51
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I have fixed some vacuum leaks, fixed my timing (not sure how but I was 15 degrees off), generated some tables of the correct size and spec for my car, and worked out that my PWM IAC is a 'reverse' model. The car now idles at 900-1000 rpm. Unfortunately my AFR gauge is currently doing this or is pegged at 19.7 (the upper limit) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYHRNCvgcYs I don't believe it is that lean since i can max a cell out in the VE table and watch/hear the idle slow down until the car dies, so it is likely a faulty lambda sensor (which was a £23 ebay purchase so no real surprise). It should however now be running enough that I can put some driveshafts on and turn it around under its own power next week before a new sensor arrives.
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Dec 23, 2020 21:24
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Stripped down the front hubs and cleaned them up. Snapped 4/8 of the dust shield retaining bolts off and then had to drill out the re-tap the holes. I had to remove the steering arms from the hubs too as the locktab plates were all rusted and these are an MOT failure. I will have to make new ones myself out of sheet using the rusty remains as a pattern. The dust shields are a bit rusty but you cant buy them so they are going back on how they are.  Had to cut 3/4 of these off too:  I am planning on spending the rest of the evening painting all the parts (and of course my face)..   The inner arches are also getting a coat of frost's chassis black (1/3rd of the price of por15)   also, it is now finally showing as road legal! 
Tomarse fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Dec 27, 2020 |
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Dec 27, 2020 19:04
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Well, I've got some wheels: It took a lot of weight to balance all of them (I don't know if the power coating caused this?) and it became evident that one of them is not very round so I might have to find another one . You could easily see how bad it was when it was on the balancing machine. He balanced it anyway - but it took close to 400g of weights to make the machine happy! I have also been struggling with brake discs so haven't got the front end back together yet . The front discs ones I ordered from a saab parts specialist are wrong as it seems like there were 2 options used on Saabs of this age and mine is the awkward one. Everyone else I try seems to be out of stock. There are multiple listings on ebay, but as I work through these it appears that they are mainly auto-generated and none of them can actually supply them once they try. Next week I'll try hitting up the local agricultural engineer to see if he can just resurface my old ones on his lathe. I suspect this would put them a tiny bit below the 'minimum' thickness in the spec but would make my brakes work a lot better! I've been building my own x-ref list.. Saab OEM 8934036 A.B.S 15922 ATE 24.0113-0141.1 or 413141 Ferodo DDF099 Brembo 08.3965.20 Delphi BG2113 TRW DF1665 AP 10037 BRECO BS7499 APEC DSK598
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Dec 30, 2020 16:09
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Despite their chunky appearance Incas are terribly soft. I'd look to get them trued instead of purchasing another example given the likelyhood of finding another ovoid example.
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Dec 30, 2020 17:06
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Tomarse posted:it took close to 400g of weights to make the machine happy! That's very not right™️ So a proper repair place would be able to re-true that? Now I want to find out how.
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Dec 30, 2020 17:20
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trouser chili posted:Despite their chunky appearance Incas are terribly soft. I'd look to get them trued instead of purchasing another example given the likelyhood of finding another ovoid example. cakesmith handyman posted:That's very not right™️ I had these refurbished by a place that also does wheel straightening so I am somewhat disappointed that they neglected to point out that that one was so far out I didn't know they were so soft. I have just double checked and the bad one actually 'only' took around 250g (I must have misread the machine when i was watching). The others are all around 150g ish. I don't remember the incas on my last 99T needing much weight but i think i left those to be done whereas this time I hung around because the shop was quiet. I'll run the worst one on the back and see how it feels before i go shopping. I do have another 4 inca wheels currently on the car, but would obviously prefer to keep a complete set. This set came off a 1980 car that i broke for parts a few years ago.
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Dec 30, 2020 19:05
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Over the last week I reassembled the front suspension.. except for one small missing part: The Saab specialist reopened after xmas/n.y and has worked out that he can get the disks i need in for £120 aftermarket or genuine Saab for £150 (I bet they have one box left on the shelf!). This is unfortunately a lot more expensive than the £40 that the standard ones cost (and I haven't had any paid work in 4 weeks) I had a few hubs in my pile of spares so I dug through it today - initially wondering if I could swap to the later 900 hubs (turns out i can but it is more involved than i hoped), but then I found that a had a very rust set of 99 hubs that appeared to have almost new discs on them! Of course the caliper bolts snapped or rounded off so I had to get the drill out. Every fastener that could either snapped or rounded off and I had to drill or grind everything..:  And i eventually freed up these - which seem to have done almost zero miles!  They came off a very rusty car that I bought for parts around 10 years ago (and it had sat for a long time before this!). They had clearly been replaced because they are not OEM and all the locktabs were missing (and I think all the bolts were loctited instead...) Wirewheeled up like this - a bit pitted but not too bad. Still around original thickness!:   So I now have both the front corners fully back together and the funky saab handbrake adjusted  I also spent far too many hours liberating the oil cooler mounting bracket from the old oil cooler and running the pipes through the correct route to fit it in the factory spot. This is a Saab 900 198x 16v oil cooler which is exactly the same physical dimensions as the Saab 1978-81 8v oil cooler but uses different size pipe fittings and used straight fittings where the 99 is 90 degree fittings. very annoying and strange for Saab to change something unnecessarily! (usually saab parts are like Lego) 
Tomarse fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Jan 8, 2021 |
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Jan 7, 2021 23:59
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I have now started on the other end of the car! Yesterday I persuaded the very crusty looking rear axle to come out:   Which is now looking less crusty having been attacked with the wire wheel. It will get painted before it goes back in and I have rebuild kits for the calipers and lots of new brake pipe to make up.   The current shock absorbers need replacing but are tricky and expensive to get hold of (they use a pin mount at both ends) - so I am currently debating swapping the bottom suspension arms for some later 99 ones which will let me use the later 99/c900 shocks which are cheap and still available (ring mounted at the bottom). Saab clearly reused a lot of tooling and hardware for this rear axle as all the bolts are imperial rather than metric. I abused my 3 AF chrome sockets with my impact gun along with my 16mm and 17mm sockets. I feel bad about this so have now ordered some proper AF impact sockets. I then started the filthy job of cleaning up the rear arches to see how much welding i need to do:   somehow there is only some small holes at the front and rear of both arches and nothing in the suspension and shock mounting points!. I was expecting hand sized holes but only seem to have finger sized ones! cutting and welding will begin next week!     I have had no success finding a new mounting rubber for my fuel pump, so I have ordered parts to convert my fuel pump to be externally mounted I am hoping that this landrover defender pickup pipe can be bolted onto the metal part of the saab fuel pump holder:  and I have an external bosch fuel pump bracket to bolt under the floor infront of the tank..
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Jan 10, 2021 21:21
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Nice progress. I'm impressed with how much you got done, considering how cold your garage must be right now! I've taken a break from working on cars until it warms up a bit.
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Jan 10, 2021 23:54
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Pomp and Circumcized posted:Nice progress. I'm impressed with how much you got done, considering how cold your garage must be right now! I've taken a break from working on cars until it warms up a bit. I think I'm stuck in an extra cold freak microclimate here too - there has been snow on the ground constantly since boxing day here and there is still some left now! It is supposed to warm up to a balmy 7C tomorrow though (and start raining) With the door shut I can get the garage up to 10-12C with my electric heater though it costs around £5/day to run I think:( I was working with the front garage door open today because of the grinding filth and did actually reach the point where i felt like the cold had fully penetrated right to my core and I had to stop and come in for a couple of hours to sit next to a radiator and warm up and I was debating driving to Asda to get some cheap long johns!
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Jan 11, 2021 00:44
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Tomarse posted:debating driving to Asda to get some cheap long johns! Thermal base layers at Decathlon are super cheap too...
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Jan 11, 2021 02:54
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So i spoke to my dad about my shock absorber nightmares and he said "oh, i've got a set of new Saab shock absorbers in the shed that came out of your grandads' garage when they moved house in 1980-something but I'm not sure what they fit" Sure enough - they fit this car!
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Jan 12, 2021 17:18
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Tomarse posted:So i spoke to my dad about my shock absorber nightmares and he said "oh, i've got a set of new Saab shock absorbers in the shed that came out of your grandads' garage when they moved house in 1980-something but I'm not sure what they fit" Score!
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Jan 13, 2021 16:35
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Tomarse posted:So i spoke to my dad about my shock absorber nightmares and he said "oh, i've got a set of new Saab shock absorbers in the shed that came out of your grandads' garage when they moved house in 1980-something but I'm not sure what they fit" Haha that's awesome, I love it when parts hoarding gets justified.....See! I knew I would need this one day! 
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Jan 13, 2021 16:57
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Haha that's awesome, I love it when parts hoarding gets justified.....See! I knew I would need this one day! It will happen some day, and it will be glorious when it does because I don't even know what this big bastard fits. I have three of them. 
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Jan 13, 2021 18:15
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