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 This is a Sydney Funnel Web spider  This is the remains of a Subaru. Which one is more dangerous to your health? Probably the Subaru. Over the last 3-4 years there been many Subarus and Mazdas featured in the last thread. Some are wild like a AWD BRZ, some were heaps of poo poo, others got rebuild and sent on their way. In it all there has been this one......  It is a MY96 GF8 WRX or the WReckX. It was abandoned in 2011 after being rebuilt from what I suspect was a racing incident. Unlike my MY06 WRX, this one is nothing special. It has no history. It has been written off twice. It's been burnt, crashed, dented, left in a field and is to put it mildy "crap". It's got rust, the OG motor failed a while ago, it has leaks and mould and why the everliving gently caress would anyone even bother with it? Why the hell wouldnt you just scrap the worthless hulk and be done? Because....... for absolutely no reason other than because it's an unloved piece of poo poo that will never be worth anything and I've developed an irrational attachment to every single failing it's got? So while I'm sure other cars with come in and out of this thread, this one is the focus. There will be BRZ's. There will be rallying. There will be Mazda rotarys. There will be cats. There will be spiders. And there will be this awful heap of Subaru waste that noone in their right mind would do a drat thing with.  And to begin with one of the fastest engine and gearbox installs. Done from *under* the car  Dolly under the engine and gearbox, manouver after jacking the car up high enough (and it was light enough I could deadlift the front end anyway), use engine hoist to lift engine and gearbox combo  30-40 minutes by myself later it's all bolted in and a hell of a lot easier than the alternatives. I might have a go at making a true tarmac rally car with this junkheap. The rough idea is 250Kw ATW, mid 11's and a 1 min 45 around Eastern Creek. Eh whatever, my plans over the last few years seem to get changed at random times so....  Whatever. Here's hoping for a boring thread where I just gently caress around at random on a shitbox A lack of Oh God Why Do I even What am I doing would be nice. 21 Subarus were in the last thread. I'd prefer to keep it to the 5 I presently own Edit May 23 - I'm just going to go to bed and see if there's a rational explanation tomorrow retired, Turbo sleeper Forester now drives CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 09:44 on May 21, 2023 |
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Sep 7, 2020 13:27
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Assembling the drivetrain and installing it all at once from the bottom is viable. On the lift two of us can part a car out in under an hour. That's rear suspension and tank on a pallet, whole front drivetrain and cradle on another pallet, shell forklifted out the door. Lots of aggressive cutting and 3/4 inch impacting. And violence.
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Sep 8, 2020 05:11
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Wouldnt mind a proper lift.... it'll make all this poo poo so much easier. The 'hack" I came up with works fine tho if a bit of a juggle doing it by myself  Back on all four with the front suspension / hubs / brakes off a MY99 WRX. Unfortunatly I'll have to change suspension arms as the alloy ones have got a problem and they just didnt fit well? Not sure why as they are compatible. I'll have to figure this out over theweekend
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Sep 8, 2020 11:11
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Spot the problem (Apart from it's a Subaru) 
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Sep 16, 2020 01:31
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Spot the problem Annnnd I completely forgot to take pictures of what was wrong and how I fixed it. Issue - I installed the clutch lines / engine BEFORE the brake booster. Fix - invent a portal gun.  Now here is something I didnt know that caught me out. On a early ABS car the hub looks like this and in fact this set up existed for exactly one year - MY97. The big issue is the ABS sensor is on the back of the hub and the hole is deeper  And this is what a MY98 and on hub looks like. The ABS sensor is over the driveshaft which has the tone ring. Hole is 1 cm shorter too - and as I am basically standardising on MY97 of coooooourse the loving hubs have to be changed.....  Well at least nothing was stuck so it all changed over quickly and the car is back on the ground. While I'm having a look there that front corner is going to be problematic in the future - it's a bad repair job. Task for a later time. CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 12:17 on Sep 19, 2020 |
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Sep 19, 2020 12:15
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 Squarky boi Actually the number of birds around the place has skyrocketed since the fires. There's very little not burnt so there's thousands more birbs and species I usually dont see  *sigh* 25 year old plastics go extremely brittle. Just tapped it lightly and that happened. Time to go look for a newer one  Presented without comment
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Sep 21, 2020 01:55
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How stringent is Australia regarding non pressurized fluid containers being OEM regarding annual (?) inspections? Would it be worth it to just keep a few universal ones (either plastic or metal) on hand?
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Sep 21, 2020 02:05
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McTinkerson posted:How stringent is Australia regarding non pressurized fluid containers being OEM regarding annual (?) inspections? Would it be worth it to just keep a few universal ones (either plastic or metal) on hand? Absolutly no issue. You can after market it no problem - just need to work out where to find something
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Sep 21, 2020 02:48
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McTinkerson posted:How stringent is Australia regarding non pressurized fluid containers being OEM regarding annual (?) inspections? Would it be worth it to just keep a few universal ones (either plastic or metal) on hand? I've never seen those puke tanks break here unless it was frozen water expanding, but it seems really common in Australia and Japan. Usually I replace mine when they get sludged up with head gasket "conditioner" and/or oil-coolant sludge. Subarus aren't that niche, so there are a bunch of RockAuto knockoff parts that are super cheap, that's what's in the Saab right now (I think? Maybe I did that to the 03) Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Sep 21, 2020 |
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Sep 21, 2020 15:42
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Looks more like a washer fluid tank  Either way, they get pretty brittle in TX too. Not quite "fall apart if you sneeze on it" brittle, but brittle enough that you can crack the lip on top by bumping it wrong.
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Sep 21, 2020 16:32
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That'll teach me to phone-post. There are RockAuto washer bottles available too, at least, although I remember not seeing any for the 06-07 Impreza wagons.
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Sep 21, 2020 18:06
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There's no Rock Auto here - and yes washer bottle tank. I've actually never seen one of those go stupid brittle before Got this going. Victa VE40 two stroke with some fuel feed issues I got for free - and oh hell yeah does this thing really kick some rear end and just looooooove some hard work. My backyard is the perfect place for a two stroke that likes to destroy anything - also appears to be a mulcher style mower too so more win. Bit heavier than my four stroke and bigger so mowing half a acre sloping backyard is a workout but still faster as I dont have to do multiple passes.  Garage readied for that f****** Outback that was so loving frustrating earlier this year next weekend after I drag back a motor the owner of said car got on Thursday.
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Sep 27, 2020 09:32
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 A 1400km road trip was cheaper and easier to pick up this. Fukcing couriers not wanting to deliver to a residential address.... Good drive, caught up with someone I hadnt seen in years, realsied the Pacific Highway is almost dual carriageway.... only been 34 years since the started to do that!!! (Sydney to Brisbane, 1000 odd kms)   Kitties!    Inside the wrapped pallet - oneEZ30R with polished(?) cam and chain covers. Looking at the engine itself..... remarkably clean in fact. No gunk, just dust. One round of brake clean later and some assembly lube, I'm just gonna loving send it.  Sent.  If that section at "You are here" looks steep and difficult.... it was. Very. When they say for experienced fit walkers only, they mean it.  Out with the failure motor....  In with the OOOH SHINEY motor. And now for bolting the ancillaries on.
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Oct 5, 2020 11:29
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is... is this the Outback that you wanted to torch? I thought you didn't play with EZ30s anymore.
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Oct 5, 2020 16:30
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Thread title implies there are Subarus which aren't broken.
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Oct 5, 2020 18:36
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STR posted:is... is this the Outback that you wanted to torch? Owner bought the motor. I install, not my problem if it doesnt run Blacknose posted:Thread title implies there are Subarus which aren't broken. I own four unbroken, working, reliable Subarus.
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Oct 6, 2020 10:27
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:I own four unbroken, working, reliable Subarus. Where does the AWD BRZ fit in to this? Also, why are there not more pictures of it?! (Please post more Mazda, they're obviously more reliable than the Subarus.)
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Oct 6, 2020 14:07
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:I own four unbroken, working, reliable Subarus. I own an unbroken working reliable Subaru but it still always needs something doing to it. Currently driveshaft oil seals and seized camber bolts (although they're all seized at -1 so they can stay seized).
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Oct 6, 2020 16:18
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McTinkerson posted:Where does the AWD BRZ fit in to this? Also, why are there not more pictures of it?! AWD BRZ is best followed on https://www.facebook.com/kaptainballistik and it looks liek this now - https://www.facebook.com/kaptainballistik/photos/a.10152207644368723/10157856408538723/ RX-7 has a carby leak. Blacknose posted:I own an unbroken working reliable Subaru but it still always needs something doing to it. Currently driveshaft oil seals and seized camber bolts (although they're all seized at -1 so they can stay seized). Three of the Subarus literally need no work and one is even also heading into it's third decade. The red wagon is literally the only Subaru here that doesnt move under it's own power.
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Oct 7, 2020 06:01
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I was mostly trying to make a dumb joke. Sorry that it was neither funny nor good. Also I've seen that awd brz online but had no idea it was done by a forum member, that thing's seriously cool.
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Oct 7, 2020 08:43
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Blacknose posted:I own an unbroken working reliable Subaru but it still always needs something doing to it. Currently driveshaft oil seals and seized camber bolts (although they're all seized at -1 so they can stay seized).  On mine, both outer CVs are popping around turns (one is less than a year old, not even a reman.. the other is a reman that came with the car).  Needs a suspension refresh pretty bad. But I paid $1800 for it right at a year ago, the only repairs I've done have been an axle, radiator, and radiator/trans cooler hoses. The rest has just been maint.
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Oct 7, 2020 10:41
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Blacknose posted:I was mostly trying to make a dumb joke. Sorry that it was neither funny nor good. 1) Is cool  2) Yep, my IRL brother in fact using a lot of parts I owned. Given howmuch GC8 is in it, it's cooler and more WTF than anyone knows AND loving FINALLY there is a fifth working Subaru here. Months of torture finally over and it gasped to life https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dpNytEeiNY Still got a bit to go to make it drivable.......
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Oct 8, 2020 09:01
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loving Outback status - Moved unider it's own power. Needs hose clamps. Needs serpentine belt. Needs coolant. Ran for 10 mins and cleared the shot out of the exhaust. Has a misfire on cylinder 4. Maybe then it'll be fixed tomorrow.
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Oct 9, 2020 12:24
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2. FILLING OF ENGINE COOLANT 1 ) Pour cooling system conditioner through the filler neck. 2 ) Pour engine coolant into the radiator up to the filler neck position. 3 ) Fill engine coolant into the reservoir tank up to “FULL” level. 4 ) Close the radiator cap and start the engine. Race 5 to 6 times at 3,000 rpm or less, then stop the engine. (Complete this operation within 40 seconds.) 5 ) Wait for one minute after the engine stops, open the radiator cap. If the engine coolant level drops, add engine coolant into radiator up to the filler neck position. 6 ) Perform the procedures 4) and 5) again. 7 ) Attach the radiator cap and reservoir tank cap properly. 8 ) Start the engine and operate the heater at max imum hot position and the blower speed setting to “LO”. 9 ) Run the engine at 2,000 rpm or less until radiator fan starts and stops. 10 ) Stop the engine and wait until the engine coolant temperature lowers to 30°C (86°F) or less. 11 ) Open the radiator cap. If the engine coolant level drops, add engine coolant into radiator up to the filler neck position and reservoir tank to the “FULL” level. 12 ) Attach the radiator cap and reservoir tank cap properly. 13 ) Set the heater setting to maximum hot position and the blower speed setting to “LO” and start the engine. Perform racing at 3,000 rpm or less. If the flowing sound is heard from heater core, repeat the procedures from step 9). Note to self - HEATER ON WHEN BLEEDING COOLING SYSTEM
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Oct 11, 2020 10:13
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 Why yes, it turned around under it's own power!  *sigh* HOWEVER I compeltely forgot to attach a transmission cooler line. Annnnnd that will be an hour long cleanup in asile 5  However all was not lost! Refilled transmission and then worked out how to chnage pig tail connectors on the engine harness. Oh look at that, I get reliable signal from the temperature sensor and cam angle sensor now  And now all nice and happy  A wash and all that needs to be complete is finish bleeding the coolant system. As a reminder.... TURN ON THE HEATER WHEN BLEEDING A SUBARU'S ENGINE COOLANT. Fuuuuuck. No wonder I couldnt get the engine to bleed properly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7BAzlITpqI
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Oct 12, 2020 00:19
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Not seen - the Cursed Outback's actual fault is a blocked radiator because of all the HG sealant some idiot tried to use on the orginal motor. *sigh* Thursday evening - Rural Fire Brigade doing hazard reduction burning around the block. The weather has been good for it (you can NOT HR in poo poo conditions) However keep that in mind....  I *had* this in mind since March to do and only got to it today - finally doing a big brake WRX 4 pot conversion. Nice and simple bolt on for noticably bigger brakes  Four bolts, undo brake line and.... done. I suspect the brake master isnt quite big enough and I didnt quite bleed them 100% but a nice improvement and very progressive. Annnnd now how I said hold that thught about the hazard reduction burn?  Oh dear. Only 1/3rd of the appliances that were required to put out the smoldering bush when the winds kicked up and a fire took off. Fortunantly it wasnt a 600,000ha red roaring monster and just a few hectares so dealt with. Been a few HR's go out of control this year. Which is why you do NOT just burn to reduce fuel loads - it needs planning, the right conditions and some luck
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Oct 17, 2020 12:27
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 And now rear brakes done and sway bar end links. Also not shown - Hawk track pads. Forester stops like race car now - Kinda hilarious the Forester is 100 odd kgs lighter than a GD WRX so it will pull up faster than even an STI with it's Brembos Now I need to work out exactly what needs to be done to swap in GC8 WRX struts so I can install the KYX struts and King springs I have sitting about so it turns like a WRX. I *think* in theory the subframe spacers need to come out and the rear strut towers need one bolt hole done? Not 100% sure and the info is poo poo on the Interwebs these days.
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Oct 18, 2020 22:09
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Now I need to work out exactly what needs to be done to swap in GC8 WRX struts so I can install the KYX struts and King springs I have sitting about so it turns like a WRX. I *think* in theory the subframe spacers need to come out and the rear strut towers need one bolt hole done? Not 100% sure and the info is poo poo on the Interwebs these days. GD and GC rear tophats differ by one bolt hole on the outer most edge of the car, drill it out. Use the tophat as a drill guide with a wax pen.
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Oct 19, 2020 15:06
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Thanks. So my memory was fairly spot on then. Also...  Now this is just silly. A NA Forester with a serious strut brace?
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Oct 20, 2020 06:33
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Cursed Outback status - working and registered again WReckX status - finally back in the garage  Hubs, driveshafts, trailing arms out  I am just a bit tooooo fast and good getting these drat things out.  And here's why I pulled the rear suspension out - I wanted to get to the fue tank and check it's condition internally as I suspected due to sitting about for ten years it would be a touch on the ugly side  Uhhhh........ that aint good. There should be a slosh baffle... but it appears to be loose? And GG what on earth is that fluid IN the tank?  At least the fuel pump loos salvageable. I think it looks like a TDO aftermarket (210lph / 12v 240lph 14v)  That was once petrol years ago. I have no idea what the gently caress it is now but it was rank  Whinebro 255lph ready to go into a different fuel tank because the tank that came out the car is indeed hosed - the surge baffle and other internal debris is going to be too hard to even try to fix. I have two spare tanks and I suspected the tank internally would be rotten. And given I spilled a bunch of whatever the gently caress was in that tank on the garage floor called it quits as the smell really wasnt pleasant at all.
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Nov 7, 2020 12:44
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:
It really is incredible what can happen to the inside of a fuel tank. That is gross and good call regarding stopping, those fumes can't be good (get enough of them and a spark and you're going to have a great time). Do you have any plans to coat the inside of the spare tanks you have? Or just keep them full with low / zero ethanol content fuel? Any updates on the Mazda RX's?
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Nov 10, 2020 17:38
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McTinkerson posted:It really is incredible what can happen to the inside of a fuel tank. That is gross and good call regarding stopping, those fumes can't be good (get enough of them and a spark and you're going to have a great time). I'm not 100% sure what I'm going to do with the new / spare tanks other than I'll change fittings over to be E85 safe just in case ad keep them in dry well vented areas. RX-7 is running again with fuel leak contained. RX-2 is being an RX-2 doign RX-2 things like this 
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Nov 11, 2020 04:44
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A now highly rare day off?  SCIENCE!
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Nov 12, 2020 01:59
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 Approach with extreme caution Oh and that driveshaft? AWD BRZ donated from a rather surprising source VW Transporter. Turns out thats a great source for Porsche driveshafts that are about a unbreakable as possible   In order - GF8 front (donor), SG Forester front (target), SG Forester rear (target) SF5 Forester rear (top hat parts donor) for comparision - the idea here is to transplant the decent springs that was on a GF8 WRX onto SG Forester struts while using the SF Forester top hats so it can just bolt up. Using the slightly longer SG struts solves a tyre clearence issue Eventually I'll use new struts but I just want to see this all work first and work out any issues with fitment to the Forester.
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Nov 15, 2020 23:20
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  Clearence issues solved, dropped at the rear by 10-15 mm, feels firm but not back hurting. Front on Thursday. So that gives me a good stealth handling package, switches the car to be using GD/SG suspension and goes well with the upgraded brakes. So I should have by next weekend a Forester that stops better than a GC8 WRX and handles better. Next step will be consider a full Whiteline kit for the front and bigger rear sway bar / STI spherical control links. And this'll make the Forester so far beyond it's engine capabilities I think a lap of Eastern Creek will be boring - It just simply wont be able to work up enough speed to challenge the brakes or suspension, especially with the 235/47/17 R's I think that the upgrades may have the effect of making the R's be able to work harder and just add more cornering potential to a chassis already well beyond the engine. What I have in mind I know works on cars with 250-270KW ATW rather..... yeesh the 60ishKWATW the Forester has?
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Nov 17, 2020 09:12
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So turbo 13B swap the Foz is what I am hearing? http://subarugears.com/Adaptors/Adaptors.html Edit: As someone who was also running GD/SG suspension on a SF, excellent choice. It really is incredible how good of an upgrade it is.
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Nov 17, 2020 15:16
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Didn't you have a spare EZ30...
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Nov 17, 2020 15:33
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McTinkerson posted:So turbo 13B swap the Foz is what I am hearing? The fact they have an adapter for a Holden V8 begs so many questions. Like.... WTF Who the gently caress was dumb enough to want that in the first place?!?!? (The Forester is staying Slow Car Fast for a while longer - it's turbo motor is under the bench when I feel up to the wiring challenge) Don Dongington posted:Didn't you have a spare EZ30... You would have to pay me an amount that Bezos would notice to put a EZ30 into the Forester. I have soooo much hate for them now after whats happened in 2020
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Nov 17, 2020 21:37
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Trip report - rear suspension pretty much as I wanted it to be. Firmer, felt more responsive, quite definitely quieter so as I suspected the old rear struts were on the way out. Now for the front tomorrow.
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Nov 18, 2020 04:49
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Out with the old..... In with the newer....  You need a good eye to see something isnt quite right here now. And I like that a lot, it now handles a fair bit beyond it's looks now  Not finished this round yet. Swaybar change at the rear and also sway bar links on the front to be done. ALK and bumpsteer kit in the list after that.
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Nov 19, 2020 10:09
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