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I'm sure GW would sell buckets of overpriced weird dice to go with overpriced minis and paints. You can also ship them from places like Aliexpress for very cheap
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 12:41 |
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# ? May 9, 2024 20:50 |
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Devorum posted:Sure, I definitely see that...but 2d6 would work wonders in opening the mechanics and making them less swingy while still keeping the D6. You aren't wrong, but using 2d6 creates logistical issues for rolling the number of attacks that 40k normally requires. Right now you can scoop up dice and roll shooting for your mob of 20 guys in one go, if they use 2d6 in an attack roll then you have to roll them each separately (or have some sort of way to differentiate the pairs, I guess dozens of different dice sets?) It's dumb but when the game often has squads of 10 or more with weapons that provide multiple attacks expanding the rolling does turn into a gameplay issue.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 12:42 |
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I might actually take a crack this weekend at making an official 10th edition post thread, is that allroght with you guys? can i take the one made for this, update it, add whats going on nowadays and post it?
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 12:55 |
Ashcans posted:You aren't wrong, but using 2d6 creates logistical issues for rolling the number of attacks that 40k normally requires. Right now you can scoop up dice and roll shooting for your mob of 20 guys in one go, if they use 2d6 in an attack roll then you have to roll them each separately (or have some sort of way to differentiate the pairs, I guess dozens of different dice sets?) It's dumb but when the game often has squads of 10 or more with weapons that provide multiple attacks expanding the rolling does turn into a gameplay issue. My preference would be to move to a something like a d8 or d10. Keep the single dice for ease, but with a larger range so more than one +/-1 doesn't explode the game. I also think there's way too many attacks per unit in general these days (10 man Desolator squad can get 100 attacks, which is just absurd), but that's a different conversation.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 12:59 |
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Al-Saqr posted:I might actually take a crack this weekend at making an official 10th edition post thread, is that allroght with you guys? can i take the one made for this, update it, add whats going on nowadays and post it? Funny enough I did that a couple of weeks ago, but no one said anything about it so I passed on working on it. It's here either way: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1_YSSgsQWShyyRtJLXFQF3h_xjmPprTojedwL9iAMT_M/edit?usp=sharing
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 13:02 |
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Cooked Auto posted:Funny enough I did that a couple of weeks ago, but no one said anything about it so I passed on working on it. It's here either way: Ok i will steal this, add to it and post it this friday. I will split it into three posts one is the intro to the world and setting, second is the game systems and hobby and some useful beginner advice, and third is community, tournament scenes, podcasts, channels and media.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 13:05 |
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Go hog wild with it, I just ripped the OP from here and removed a bunch of outdated info and links.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 13:07 |
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Having tried out a scheme on a Chaos Spawn I think I'm ready to pull the trigger on getting Magnus The Red, do folks tend to magnetize him for removable wings? Seems like transit would be a lot easier, plus the staff looks fragile so might be good to be able to take that off or replace it with the sword. Anything I need to bear in mind. I actually need to investigate moving models around, I have some ancient GW cases and a third party one which should be fine for the infantry, and I can cut up the foam to accommodate certain vehicles or larger units, but how do folks move around big stuff, like Primaris Dreadnoughts, Primarchs and the like these days?
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 14:33 |
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Plastic box that doesn't have foam in it. Metal sheets glued to the bottom of the box. Magnets under the models bases. Foam is good if you're going to travel across the world with the stuff but for anything that doesn't involve a baggage handler you're better off without it
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 14:37 |
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Spanish Manlove posted:Plastic box that doesn't have foam in it. Metal sheets glued to the bottom of the box. Magnets under the models bases. Let the super glue for the sheets dry with the lid off so the fumes don't frost the cases. Actually, let me find the Duncan Rhodes video for you, OP: https://youtu.be/eKg8oPF4xfk Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 14:59 on Aug 2, 2023 |
# ? Aug 2, 2023 14:44 |
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The magnetic sheets Duncan uses aren't strong enough, you're better off with sheet metal from a hardware store that's cut to fit (and sides deburred). Or do what I did and bring magnets to Target or another big box store, find a baking tray that's ferrous, then find a large plastic box that the baking tray fits in. I got some epoxy to stick the tray into the box but realized that it works well for a quick movement tray Sizes of magnets to glue under the bases: 2mm x 3mm is a general use, but 2mm x 5mm is super sticky. These are just guides and if you find something on sale with a similar volume then try it. A lot of people make a lot of effort to try to get the magnet actually contacting the metal but if the field is strong enough you don't have to mess around with green stuff or epoxy or effort. Larger bases get more magnets. Bonus is that the magnets add a little bit of weight to your models and they'll be less top heavy. Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 14:51 on Aug 2, 2023 |
# ? Aug 2, 2023 14:47 |
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Metal sheets will be stronger, but I have found that flexible adhesive magnetic paper like you’d use to make refrigerator magnet business cards stuck to the bottom of a plastic storage bin is plenty strong for me. This may be because I use 2.2 to 2.6 mm thick 5-6 mm diameter neodymium magnets on the models so those are pretty strong. I like the Sterilite Stack and Carry ones because they’re deep enough for most models and the two layers is nice.
Muir fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Aug 2, 2023 |
# ? Aug 2, 2023 14:52 |
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I just use cookie sheets and put magnets on the base.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 14:57 |
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kzin602 posted:I have a bit of mental dissonance over the idea that people play this game in competitive tournaments and also you can have a real advantage because your vindicare happens to be the special one on a statue versus your opponent who has the regular version where they are on ground level. Every tournament has a list of house rules over uncertain interactions. Prize support for tournaments is non-existent. You basically play competitive Hams for fun, very few comp players convert it into money (Art of War basically).
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 15:00 |
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The best magnetic carrying case solution is the Ikea letter tray and pet carrying bag combo. The letter tray is steel, and the shelves are conveniently removable so you can fit huge models in there, and drag your shelf full of infantry models out for easy access. The letter tray perfectly fits into the pet carrying bag, with a little extra space in the back for your dice, books, ruler, and what have you. The only downside is that it is a bit heavy, which is a downer if you need to walk to your games.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 16:24 |
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Spanish Manlove posted:The magnetic sheets Duncan uses aren't strong enough, you're better off with sheet metal from a hardware store that's cut to fit (and sides deburred). Or do what I did and bring magnets to Target or another big box store, find a baking tray that's ferrous, then find a large plastic box that the baking tray fits in. I got some epoxy to stick the tray into the box but realized that it works well for a quick movement tray One trick I learned from talking to a magnet salesman is that contact surface of the magnet matters more than the actual strength. The thin ferrous paper sheets will be sufficient if you cover the entire base of your model with a sheet magnet. A small neodymium may have more sheer pulling power but won't "grip" quite as well. It's probably something to do with how the magnetic flux lines interact.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 17:08 |
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Z the IVth posted:One trick I learned from talking to a magnet salesman is that contact surface of the magnet matters more than the actual strength. Surface area matters, as does distance between the magnet and the tray (a thicker magnet is stronger but also brings the magnet surface flush with the bottom of the base instead of being set farther up from the tray when the model is down). But small neodymium magnets grip just fine onto a box with ferrous paper. A single 5 mm for smaller bases, or two 5-6 mm for larger bases, is sufficient to hold steady even with the box turned sideways: Geisladisk posted:The best magnetic carrying case solution is the Ikea letter tray and pet carrying bag combo. That's a cool solution. Muir fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Aug 2, 2023 |
# ? Aug 2, 2023 17:18 |
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Geisladisk posted:The best magnetic carrying case solution is the Ikea letter tray and pet carrying bag combo. If you want to spend a little bit more an empty tabletop tyrant bag fits the kvissle perfectly
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 17:23 |
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Muir posted:Surface area matters, as does distance between the magnet and the tray (a thicker magnet is stronger but also brings the magnet surface flush with the bottom of the base instead of being set farther up from the tray when the model is down). But small neodymium magnets grip just fine onto a box with ferrous paper. A single 5 mm for smaller bases, or two 5-6 mm for larger bases, is sufficient to hold steady even with the box turned sideways: Oh yeah for plastic 28mm guys it doesn't really matter. It's only for metal or if your models are bigger.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 17:31 |
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I use Duncan's method and two magnets, and in my experience plastic models stay in place and will only slide a tiny bit, less than one base width, in a car ride to the LGS. Metal miniatures, however, will not stay in place, I had some old space marine scouts turn into loose cannons and break another model. I do wish they'd hold firmer, this works fine for home storage and car trips, but I wouldn't want to fly to a tournament with this set up.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 17:37 |
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Z the IVth posted:Oh yeah for plastic 28mm guys it doesn't really matter. It's only for metal or if your models are bigger. Metal would be a different story, sure, but in plastic even big guys are fine with a couple extra magnets: Jack B Nimble posted:I use Duncan's method and two magnets, and in my experience plastic models stay in place and will only slide a tiny bit, less than one base width, in a car ride to the LGS. Metal miniatures, however, will not stay in place, I had some old space marine scouts turn into loose cannons and break another model. I guess what I do is Duncan's method as well, though I only use one magnet for small guys and I use superglue accelerator spray to dry the glue to make it faster and easier to churn through a bunch of dudes. I've also put magnet paper on my spraying stick so it's easy to slap them on there for priming. If you want to easily increase the strength in your system, swap the magnet paper for sheet metal cut to size or an appropriate sized baking sheet (or the Ikea letter trays mentioned above). The force will be much stronger without having to change any magnets on the models. Muir fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Aug 2, 2023 |
# ? Aug 2, 2023 17:38 |
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Muir posted:Metal would be a different story, sure, but in plastic even big guys are fine with a couple extra magnets: I tried to be stingy but after a close call I used like 16 under my Knight Dominus.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 17:52 |
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Are we expecting any Gencon announcements?
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 17:55 |
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Z the IVth posted:I tried to be stingy but after a close call I used like 16 under my Knight Dominus. Makes sense. The base alone is twice the area, so five magnets on my Psychophage's 120 mm base would scale to ten magnets on a 170 mm base, plus the knight is a much taller and heavier model. smug jeebus posted:Are we expecting any Gencon announcements? Maybe the Space Marine previews that we would've had already if they'd won Oghram?
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 17:59 |
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First games of 10th coming up on Saturday for me. Any tips? I have the cards and rulebook etc. Is it worth printing out index cards?
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 18:15 |
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smug jeebus posted:Are we expecting any Gencon announcements? Feels like they'd make more noise about them being at GenCon for that to happen.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 18:25 |
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I had a pretty large amount of my Tyranid army bases magnetized once. Then I got sick and drat tired of my Hormagaunts turning into a Katamari of frustration every time they got off the sheet and on to the table.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 18:30 |
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Tangy Zizzle posted:First games of 10th coming up on Saturday for me. hey tangy I'm assuming you played 9th? Until the end of this month* every index card is easily searchable in the app so basically depends on if you want paper versus screen versions. Here is a datasheet converter to waste less paper and have less to flip through: https://scoolov.github.io/warhammer_datasheets/ If you do use the app be sure to update it (lol @ me). Honestly 10th played great for my first game of it last weekend, the terrain rules felt like the biggest change to pay attention to. *actually the datasheets still might be searchable after this month I guess, just won't be able to make a list without paying for WH+, probably we keep datasheet access until codexes start coming out.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 18:31 |
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bird food bathtub posted:I had a pretty large amount of my Tyranid army bases magnetized once. Then I got sick and drat tired of my Hormagaunts turning into a Katamari of frustration every time they got off the sheet and on to the table. A ball of entangled limbs and tails is the natural state of hormagaunts, magnetised or not
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 18:32 |
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Tangy Zizzle posted:First games of 10th coming up on Saturday for me. Fly doesn't teleport you through terrain anymore.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 18:33 |
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Eej posted:Fly doesn't teleport you through terrain anymore. By my reading this appears to be true for "hills, industrial structures, sealed buildings and armoured containers" but an INFANTRY or BEAST model with FLY could move through Ruins to quote the core rules "as if it were not there". Otherwise you'd have flying infantry having to move something absurd like 10+ inches to go through the windows and doors of a ruin simply because they have the FLY keyword. The Rules Commentary v1 pdf on pages 8 and 9 I think does a good job of showing what you're talking about Eej. And to be clear I'm typing all of this out to discuss the rules to make sure I'm reading things right and that's how the big boys are playing these rules and all that.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 19:01 |
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Yeah Infantry and Beasts run on foot through Ruins basically. If you fly you gotta draw a straight line above and down terrain.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 19:50 |
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i wonder if you can run jump pack infantry through terrain. theres definitely an argument to be made for it.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 19:55 |
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My Spirit Otter posted:i wonder if you can run jump pack infantry through terrain. theres definitely an argument to be made for it. That's how my group has been playing it.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 20:03 |
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yep played 9th a lot I think 'fly' units should be forced to fly their movement value (because it's usually higher than infantry right) over ruins/forests, etc otherwise they're "flying' through a terrain piece which sounds dangerous to me idk
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 20:28 |
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Tangy Zizzle posted:yep played 9th a lot thats actually a very good point and i think unless you only move them the same distance as their earth bound counterparts, its up and over.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 20:35 |
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Mr Owl posted:If you want to spend a little bit more an empty tabletop tyrant bag fits the kvissle perfectly Apparently this bag company also made one custom to fit the KVISSLE: https://www.montrosebag.com/product/wargaming-miniatures-bag/. Looks pretty sweet. Trying to find a similarly sized bag in the US, haven't found anything yet.
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# ? Aug 2, 2023 21:53 |
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Tangy Zizzle posted:yep played 9th a lot Forests don't move block or reduce movement anymore but otherwise this is correct for 10th. If you're a non-infantry flier and want to go past a ruin, you either have to measure up and over, or go around.
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# ? Aug 3, 2023 01:58 |
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Cyouni posted:Forests don't move block or reduce movement anymore but otherwise this is correct for 10th. If you're a non-infantry flier and want to go past a ruin, you either have to measure up and over, or go around. Yeah the point I was making is that walking through a forest at normal infantry speed is one thing but trying to fly through a forest with a jetpack, well.. They should just go over or around
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# ? Aug 3, 2023 02:06 |
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# ? May 9, 2024 20:50 |
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I just assume the jetpack fly rules account for the model being able to climb and freefall vertically, and their Mv just represents their unimpeded horizontal movement max speed.
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# ? Aug 3, 2023 02:33 |