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I should never have stopped. I used to surf as a kid, as my dad was a mad-keen surfer when I was growing up (and a banjo player. Yeah the old boy was hippy lol) and my first surf was in the shore break at Margret River in West Australia, which for a beginner is a trial of fire. I surfed on and off till I was in my mid teens and then after tearing my gut open on the reef at Cottesloe beach (Small workhorse reef break near Frematle West Australia, popular break because its so convenient) and I guess I lost my nerve after that. Just... fear of reefs I suppose. So I took up skateboarding aaaand lost lots more skin in the process lol. And now I'm a nearly 50, fat and slothenly goon. Should never have stopped. Hell, even the old boy occasionally goes out , once in a very blue moon, for a surf, and dads in his 70s now (Though he readily admits he doesnt really have the knees for it anymore), I really have no excuse buuuut I wont so....
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Aug 17, 2023 08:09
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| # ? May 5, 2024 11:54 |
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