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BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


I think I said in another thread that I would just toss that quadrajet and get something new, it saves a lot of loving about if you are new to carbs. Most will come with an electric choke with is just 12v and ground and off you go.

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BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Was going to comment on that convo we had ;) it is a 1970 car so should be smog exempt no matter where you are so you can run pre smog parts but it is the compression ratio that kills it and getting that down means head work, cam or high comp pistons. Cheapest way is to find a set of late 60s 6x -4 heads. They have large valve and small chambers for Poncho heads.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


100% a 455, 1975 5C heads should be

Chamber size 124.51 cc's
Ex/In value size 2.11/1.66

Bigger values but the biggest chambers you can get so 7.5 to 1 compression and about 200hp. If you can find some 5C -4 heads those will be similar in spec to the 6X -4 ones I was talking about with the same valve side and get the comp up to 8.5 to 1. You can get edelbrock read to go heads that will get the compression to 9.5/10 to 1 but it is about $2500 for a set. I agree that the tag would be indicative of an LSD but pulling the plate will be definitive. Since it is a 1975 car and from 1971 onwards GM used the same rear ends you should be fine getting parts for it. Thing to check is if it is a 7.5 or an 8.5 ring gear. Hopefully it is an 8.5 but since engines in the mid 70s didn't make a lot of power I wouldn't be shocked if it was a 7.5 since it didn't come from the factory with a 455. You said you want it to just be a cruiser and something to play with rather than rip snorting power so you can just leave as it mostly, do the servicing and clean it up and it will be fine.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


I picked up a new Edelbrock AVS2 for under $400 and it did fine. If you have to have a spread bore then Holley make a series of direct replacements for Quadrajets what will be cheaper and more tune able. One of those options would be my recommendation.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Most of those "Not street legal" things on aftermarket products are arse covering so you can't sue them if some anal cop takes offense to you offering them some donuts*.

* freshly smoked on the ground in front of them at your local Walmart.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


If you go this way get an entire kit so you are not trying to get parts for a fuel system running under high pressure. I know the Holley kits come with Earl's Vapor Guard hoses to run the feed and return rather than using the ones that came on the car for the carb.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Those starters are clockable as well which makes getting aftermarket headers on so much easier.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Only reason to use an OEM carb is if you want it to be original or if you are a masochist but that is just like my opinion man.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Whether to do vacuum advance on ported or manifold vacuum is an argument as old as time. I usually do manifold vacuum.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


IIRC the electric choke is just a heat element inside that gets warmer the longer power is put to it and closes the choke over a few minutes.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Try a rad cap, also check the water temp sender in the passenger side head. If it was any of the plugs in the intake I expect you would have noticed that leak. To check if it is over heating just get a cheap water temp gauge and throw that in an available hole in the inlet (after the thermostat). Cooling systems on old cars always suck so I replaced the one on my GP with a 3 row aluminum rad with twin electric fans from Champion and when I have had it idling for a while and running under some load it was rock steady at 180 degrees.

If you don’t care about the engine you could just bodge the RMS with silicone and worry about it later. Never tried to replace one without pulling the engine but I don’t think it will be possible if it has a front cross member to support the engine like my GP. No way to get the oil pan out to get to the crank and finagle the old seal out and a new one in.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Ah yes the remove the entire caliper to change the pads GM design.

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BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Very few people understand that Buick/Pontiac didn't have "Big Blocks" they had the same engine for everything from sub 300 CU all the way up to 455 CU. Olds is similar but the large displacements have a taller deck for more stroke to get to 455. It doesn't help that a lot of racing bodies split engines into small block/big block by displacement to make it easier to put cars into a specific class. Butler Performance who are a big name in Pontiac engines do 496 stroker kits that work in a 400 and the largest kit for a 455 is 503 the only difference being a slightly larger bore.

My 400 at the machine shop right now is staying a 400 because for the application it is going in having a 496 or even a 461 is money that will be better spent on the FI side of the build.

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