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Your secondary choke plate is there, but yeah it looks like the choke pull-off is completely gone, along with the primary choke plate. I was going to recommend an Edelbrock-made Quadrajet since ~20 years ago they bought the old tooling and started making direct bolt-on replacements. But it looks like they've discontinued that at some point, so now your options at $400ish are all rebuilds. Which is probably fine. If you're trying to keep costs down-ish, sticking with a carb is definitely cheaper. I'd be tempted to do a Holley Brawler carb and an adapter plate to convert it to the spread-bore manifold. Otherwise, yeah, a Sniper or FiTech or any of the other "self contained TBI" fuel injection systems would be my go-to here. I've seriously considered them for my Opel and the main reason I'm hesitating is because even their two-barrel options are way larger than that engine needs and I'd be stacking adapter plates to make it work.
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Sep 17, 2020 22:28
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:You can always pull the cover and take a peek at the carrier. That's what I'd do. Excuse to change the fluid anyway.
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Sep 23, 2020 04:07
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In the absolute strictest sense it is illegal to modify emissions equipment on any vehicle built with such things in mind, and depending on who you ask that could be as early as 1967. In practice, because the feds don't inspect vehicles that they don't have reason to believe are here illegally in the first place, it's up to whatever state/county emissions you're subject to.
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Oct 20, 2020 03:30
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That looks like the adapter terminal to use top post cables on a side post battery.
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Nov 2, 2020 05:04
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Someone jammed a sidepost battery in it at one point years ago and didn't notice that they dropped an adapter when they went back to the right battery type? gently caress sideposts forever.
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Nov 2, 2020 16:16
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STR posted:
I didn't even notice that, what the hell kastein posted:I voluntarily installed a DTS (top and side post) battery in one of my projects and I kind of like the side posts TBH. I'm using the top positive terminal and the side negative... At one point I had a combo top/side post battery in my C10 because for whatever reason the "correct" one Firestone had on the shelf would not loving fit the hold-down. Never took the protectors out of the side posts. My Canyon has top-post terminals so somewhere along the line GM must have decided to start giving up on side-post poo poo.
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Nov 2, 2020 21:19
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Don't look at his battery cable then.
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What the fuuuuuuuuuuck
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Jun 11, 2021 18:13
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I don't have an answer for you but now I have an idea as to why when I bought new Dorman axle shafts and new Dorman lug studs for my C10, pressing the studs in was an absolute motherfucker. loving Dorman.
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Jul 2, 2021 05:41
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If there's no better way to route it, I'd sleeve the new speedo cable in heat wrap before you install it.
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Sep 6, 2021 03:11
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Same process I used on my C10. There's less preload on these springs than a typical strut, and it's not like the spring can rocket one of the control arms completely off the car like it could a strut top.
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Jun 3, 2022 15:24
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Steve French posted:Interesting. I was just going off of the instructions in the repair manual I’ve got (and various online guides). Seems like this is basically the same with the spring compressor step added. I imagine it wouldn’t hurt to add that step? Unless I’m more worried about releasing tension with the spring compressor vs the floor jack. I like how they insist on a spring compressor in the instructions but that sure looks like there's no compressor on that spring in the photo.
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Jun 3, 2022 17:40
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I really doubt the difference in weight between a 455 Pontiac and a BBC is going to change ride height by any significant amount.
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Jun 7, 2022 03:53
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I would do it all at once. The spring tension isn't going to let you just replace one arm without making things much harder and/or more dangerous.
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Apr 20, 2024 23:39
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Even at full droop, the spring is still in compression because of both arms, so you can't remove either arm without also dealing with the spring (compressing it in some way to make it safe to remove and slowly release). If you're replacing both arms, the only thing that trying to keep the knuckle in place "saves" you is removing the tie rod and the brake caliper from the knuckle. Both of those are easy enough to remove and install that it seems like you're going to spend more work trying to keep one arm and the knuckle from flying away, than you are just taking the knuckle off too.
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Apr 21, 2024 01:44
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:One of the worst garage sounds: a dropped fastener pinging off stuff and then NOT hitting the floor. The only two worse sounds: The above, but it's not the fastener that you can replace for $0.20, it's the tool you can't finish the job without When the pinging off of stuff ends inside the engine
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Apr 23, 2024 22:45
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