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Steve French posted:I guess I had assumed that the end of the cable would just be bare and then clamped down somehow; in retrospect makes a lot more sense given the knots that that's not the case. Thanks for the tip re: carb parts. Often the sheath at the end of the cable is clamped in place near the carb, so you can adjust that portion which effectively shortens or lengthens the cable. This one looks like it has a molded end of the cable, so there wasn't room for adjustment. Personally, I'd go with option 2, get a replacement carburetor that is the same. You can put the right size jets in it for where you live and drive around just fine - of course if you're planning on driving down to the ocean a lot or something, yeah you won't get peak performance. You'll be fine mostly though. However, if you've got the cash and the desire, go for a bolt on EFI system! It looks like they've come a long way since I failed at it a few years ago doing a junkyard EFI, which I was doing since it was cheaper and on an oddball motor and had support. (actually right now I'm a little upset, with how cheap these are compared to when I was looking, this may become another project in a couple years) edit: I just watched a little of the Holley Sniper install video and now I'm up to 80% this is what I would do. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Sep 17, 2020 |
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Sep 17, 2020 20:36
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 14:48 |
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Steve French posted:
Nice. I guess I didn't realize that it already was running. Also I just filled up and my gas price started with a 1.
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Sep 23, 2020 04:18
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That loose one looks like the kind you use to jump it or charge it easier. As a matter of course new battery cables are a good idea, and pretty cheap insurance.
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Nov 2, 2020 03:18
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That's a good strategy. When you don't have a lot of knowledge or talent, things are slow and you cost more than they should. It's worth spending a bill to make life easier. A working Firebird is more fun than troubleshooting used parts.
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Dec 11, 2020 05:46
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Yeah those wheels are cool and to me basically only work on a handful of cars, and when they work it's perfection.
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May 15, 2021 03:54
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Hook up a vacuum gage, get it to maximum vacuum and dial it back a couple of degrees. If it's not pinging or knocking, you're good. Without a proper dyno I don't think you can truly get the best timing with any tool. I forget, does this have electronic spark? That's another variable in the timing with age if it's on points still.
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Aug 19, 2021 03:21
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Here was the advice I followed and I'm happy. quote:6. Once you have established the peak reading, retard the timing (turn distributor counter-clockwise) to reduce the reading by about 1 inch to reduce ping. You may need to reduce the reading by 1.5-2 inches total, or even more, depending on the fuel available in your local area. Let your engine's performance guide you. If you had the same 100 octane fuel in your tank that was available when these cars were new, you would most likely leave the timing at the peak vacuum reading, but even when these cars were new, there were issues with fuel. Old Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) exist that recommend retarding timing due to engine ping, so this was a concern even back when the cars were relatively new. https://automotivemileposts.com/garage/v2n8.html
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Aug 19, 2021 03:51
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 14:48 |
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sharkytm posted:I'm shivering at that wiring. What a mess. Buy some relay sockets instead of using female spades, and heatshrink crimps and a proper crimper instead of those awful things. Naked crimps and heat shrink those. I get a lot better crimps this way, and it looks a lot more professional.
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Sep 9, 2021 18:19
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