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Pretty sure my 2000s car has more underbody damage. The header damage in particular is pretty common on headers that hang lower than the stock exhaust setup, and it's not gonna hurt anything. Nice bird. I'd suggest extending the exhaust out to the sides or rear, but more because of the risk of carbon monoxide building up inside the car - unless you plan to always drive it with the windows down. I'd also suggest a carb rebuild - should hopefully fix your hard starting/cold idle issues. It's likely gunked up from sitting with gas in it.
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Sep 17, 2020 20:03
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 14:49 |
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4 barrel carbs should always have the secondaries closed until you romp on it. Sounds like yours is mechanical instead of vacuum. Yeah, your choke is just gone. It'll probably be easier to just slap another carb on at this point, sourcing the parts to get that one back to 100% will be difficult. As for the throttle cable, you can't just cut them (won't be able to reattach the end). That's definitely not the original cable, and may not even be the right one for the car/engine combo. But the knots do shorten it, and if it works...
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Sep 17, 2020 20:15
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That's been a thing in this part of the country for quite awhile, so long as you get several miles away from downtown. I paid $1.70 today.  Seeing as I was using a 15c/gal Fuel Reward, that's pretty high, normally that'd be 1.60 where I usually fill up.
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Sep 24, 2020 01:03
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I remember base prices of $1.40 over the summer for 87 @ Shell... before fuel rewards (which are typically 15c/gal once a week, if you have T-Mobile Tuesdays). ... probably helps being in TX though, where we have plenty of
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Sep 24, 2020 02:28
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It's missing the entire choke assembly (and possibly other parts), for starters, and that's not something you get with a rebuild kit. They'd need another carb to cannibalize parts from... and at that point, you're gonna be wondering "why didn't I just swap the carb, this one actually has everything". Nothing really wrong with a Quadrajet except they're very finicky to tune. The throttle shaft wears easily too, causing vacuum leaks. When tuned properly they tend to get better MPG and driveability than an aftermarket carb, but they do take work to tune after a rebuild or if you swap one on from a different engine application. You need to be a carb whisperer to tune them, preferably using an actual O2 sensor. They're not "slap a needle set and go" like a lot of aftermarket carbs; they're very good carbs that need the right touch. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Oct 18, 2020 |
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Oct 18, 2020 13:50
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Adding to that, some weird laws in some states prohibit modifications that may even reduce emissions, unless they've been certified to work with that exact application (engine/trans/chassis combo). Reference: CARB standards... I forget if you said if you're still inside of California or not, but even if you're not, you're well past the cutoff year for emissions there, and you said you're up in the mountains anyway, right? So a smog check wouldn't apply. IIRC California also only does smog, not safety? So there's no reason for anyone except a really anal cop who got pissed at you doing 68 in a 65 to poke around under the hood.
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Oct 20, 2020 08:01
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 Don't look at his battery cable then.
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Nov 2, 2020 16:50
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kastein posted:I voluntarily installed a DTS (top and side post) battery in one of my projects and I kind of like the side posts TBH. I'm using the top positive terminal and the side negative... I really like the idea behind side post batteries, so long as they don't corrode (which didn't happen with a trunk mounted battery with proper venting). Don't need to worry about the drat cables popping off or coming loose as the top post clamp stretches over the years. That said, the ones under the hood can go to hell. They get so much corrosion... I can pull both batteries cables off by hand on my current car with a top mount battery despite the bolts being as tight as they can go. If I take it on a rocky/washboard road at stupid speeds I often wind up popping a cable off, and I can tell because the gauges go apeshit and the stereo shuts off, and if the headlights are on, the ballasts get upset and start strobing the bulbs super bright. Always an instant "shift into neutral and kill the engine" moment since I know the alternator is pumping out 18+ volts at that point. Replacing the clamps would be too easy. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Nov 2, 2020 |
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Nov 2, 2020 19:30
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It might work for a minute or two at a time, then you're stuck waiting while it refills. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:33 on Jan 21, 2021 |
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Jan 21, 2021 10:30
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You'll want to use a port that's below the throttle blade (manifold vacuum). You may be able to use that port on the front driver's side, but get it running first, then make sure there's good vacuum on that port with the engine idling (should lose vacuum when opening it up). And cap off all the unused ports. If that port doesn't have vacuum at idle, you can T into the brake booster line. And you want that choke hooked up ASAP, otherwise it'll never open up. You just need power that switches on when the key is in run (not accessory). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:22 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 04:19
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Try it on both, see how it runs. Supposedly GM ran them differently depending on if they were automatic or manual? If "FR" was the distributor on the old carb, then I think that was manifold vacuum. It's been a looooooong time since I played with a carb though. And you should just go ahead and assume the timing is way off anyway.
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May 17, 2021 17:38
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That sounds totally normal, that smoke is just crap burning off of the manifolds. Probably oil that dripped from the valve covers over the years it was parked. Let it run awhile, it should burn most of it off. I wouldn't drive it until it stops smoking; I've had an engine fire from hammering on my old F-150 after spilling oil when doing valve cover gaskets (had a fire extinguisher and caught it early, didn't damage anything except the brake booster vacuum line and some wires). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:40 on May 29, 2021 |
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May 29, 2021 05:37
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You said overflow HOSE. Is there an overflow TANK? Also, did you hear any boiling/gurgling sounds beyond the dripping? I'm not sure if the overflow tank is something cars had back then, but at least most cars these days have a small tank that said hose goes into, and any overflow will go into it. Once it cools off, it'll suck a bunch of it back in. But yeah, start with a new cap. If the existing cap isn't holding pressure, the coolant will also boil a lot easier (there could also be air pockets, which will cause localized hot spots, which cause some boiling). Get a cheap IR temp gun from Harbor Freight (if they're in your area) and point it at the thermostat housing or a heater hose (crank the temp knob up as high as it goes, but leave the fan off or as low as possible), that'll be the easiest way to guesstimate how hot it's running.
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May 29, 2021 22:53
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Yeah, that wasn't ever meant to have an overflow tank. Slap a new cap on it and see what happens.
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May 30, 2021 01:42
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The transmission kickdown is a cable, not a relay or switch. It'll be a cable that connects either to the pedal or the carb (usually carb). That switch on the pedal is probably to shut off the AC compressor when you stomp it. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Sep 11, 2021 |
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Sep 11, 2021 18:06
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 14:49 |
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loving awesome Bronco, love the colors on it too. The smile on her face says everything we need to know about how happy she is to have it back. That thing is pretty drat clean for its age too. Errr, the Bronco. I have no idea how old your wife is or how clean she is. 
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May 8, 2023 06:39
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