|
The tag's a pretty good indicator that it's got an LSD. There should be some casting marks on the axle tubes somewhere but I'm not sure where they are on the BOP rear ends. You can always pull the cover and take a peek at the carrier. Edit: Check on the front of the passenger side axle tube. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Sep 18, 2020 |
#
¿
Sep 18, 2020 18:53
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 22, 2024 10:53 |
|
|
I don't know how much the F-bodies changed from gen 1 to gen 2, but for gen 1s (which are identical to my gen 3 X-body), you don't need spring compressors. When I did mine, I put a jack under the lower arm (car on stands, obviously), undid the arm mounting bolts, and lowered the whole thing down. You can pop the lower ball joint if you want, but I didn't need to do that. Just be smooth with your jack movements and the spring will basically just fall out.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 3, 2022 13:09
|
|
|
Steve French posted:Interesting. I was just going off of the instructions in the repair manual I’ve got (and various online guides). Seems like this is basically the same with the spring compressor step added. I imagine it wouldn’t hurt to add that step? Unless I’m more worried about releasing tension with the spring compressor vs the floor jack. Yup, that's pretty much exactly what I did minus the spring compressor. Hell, last time I had to do it I didn't even take the wheel off because I was feeling extra lazy. Wouldn't recommend it, but it is physically possible. I actually rented a compressor the first time I took it all apart and kind of came to the conclusion that it was more hassle (for me, anyway) than it's worth. Your situation will definitely be a bit different with a lift, though. It may actually be easier to put the car on some stands and let gravity help you out a bit. A tip on ball joints, though: skip the pickle forks. There's a GM tool for separating ball joints that works on a very different principle and it's much more efficient. I made my own and went over it here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=1&threadid=3651725&pagenumber=10&perpage=40#post465158596
|
|
#
¿
Jun 3, 2022 17:18
|
|
|
I literally bought my first ratcheting wrenches for installing leaf springs. gently caress that job without them.
|
|
#
¿
May 8, 2023 02:34
|
|
|
Your F body is pretty much the same animal as my X body, just wearing a different shirt. The way your spring is now, there's a little tension in there and it'll make a break for it if you yank that arm down a bit more and stick a pry bar in the spring, but it probably won't be as violent as you're expecting. You can probably get that out of there without any bodily harm assuming you're standing behind the flopped down control arm when you bust it free. For the other side, I'd approach things a bit differently. Put your floor jack under the lower arm and give it some pressure, but put it more towards the inside of the arm. Leave the ball joint, but undo the 2 bolts holding the arm to the subframe. Then slowly lower that jack. This will let the spring stretch out pretty much straight down instead of having the bottom of it turn towards the center of the car as the arm pivots. Once you get to where the spring is fully relaxed, you should be able to drop the jack completely and the spring should literally fall right out. Last time I did this on my car I didn't even take the wheel off. Wouldn't recommend that necessarily, but disconnecting the inboard side of the arm first definitely made things a bit calmer on spring removal.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 22, 2024 13:30
|
|
|
Steve French posted:I have a spring compressor, though the internal style. This one, specifically: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W80554 I was going to use it as a fallback, but it was a giant pain in the rear end to try to get that on with the ball joints still attached. So much of the ends of the spring weren't accessible, and it was compressed enough that there was barely enough clearance for the jaws to fit through the spring, and if I got it on there the two sets of jaws would have been so close together I was skeptical it would accomplish much of anything anyway. Your experience with the "inside" spring compressor mirrors mine. Makes it difficult when the top of the spring is buried up inside the subframe. Obviously, the spring is imparting some load on the arm mount bolts, but I was able to overcome that pretty easily with the floor jack under the arm and then poke the bolts out with a socket extension. Just be nice and slow when you're lowing the arm and there should be very little violence. The first time I removed one of the springs, I did it balljoint first after I'd removed the subframe from the car. My pants escaped the encounter unscathed, but my eyebrows definitely went up when that coil got its first taste of freedom.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 22, 2024 16:53
|
|
|
Piece of cake. Nice job. And shorter springs are easier to install  .
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2024 02:18
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:"Some" bushings. Maybe even most of them! One of the worst garage sounds: a dropped fastener pinging off stuff and then NOT hitting the floor.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2024 21:44
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 22, 2024 10:53 |
|
|
Clean Parts Go On Cars. A good scrub down and a coat of semi-gloss goes a long way.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 25, 2024 02:59
|
|