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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

You've got a miniex with a blade on site. Is there some reason you didn't just push out the entire area with the blade before they got there with the equipment? Would have taken all of 20 minutes.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

kastein posted:

Because I'm a bull in a china shop who barely knows which control to grab :v:

Oh, that would explain it. I thought you'd run those before. Yeah, it's not as easy as a youtube education on running one :)

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Why standing seam and not just metal? Standing seam is a lot of labor and, unless it's for looks, doesn't make a lot of sense these days. It's literally a leftover from before stamping metal on the scale of roofing sizes was practical.

Unless that's exactly what you're talking about and some areas call all metal roofing panels standing seam.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

angryrobots posted:

I think the advantage of standing seam is that the hardware is hidden and not exposed to the elements. The other types of metal roofing panels I'm familiar with require exposed screws with rubber washers. They perform well but don't last forever.

It's also available in a heavy gauge, seems to be most popular (edit - here, in the US southeast) for commercial buildings where low maintenance and storm performance make it worth the cost.

No doubt about lasting longer because yeah, you have those rubber gaskets on the weird combo self tapper sheet metal and wood screws. I'm not seeing any new building in my area of the northeast using legit standing seam. If you're in an area where that's not specialty labor (like it is here - that's right up there with river stone rubble wall masonry repair for your 1700/1800s farm house) it makes a lot of sense for longevity, but coming from where I'm at I'm thinking it's ridiculously expensive. Guess not in the right areas.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Elviscat posted:

Maybe there's a terminology issue, when I think standing-seam roofing.it looks like I'm thinking of R-panel, which is what I usually see in residential applications.



So that looks like you're talking about steel roofing panels, not actual standing seam that you'd see on 1800's construction. The standing seam roofing I'm talking about is made from rolls of steel and is literally soldered and folded at the joints. It's horrendously labor intensive.

How does the stuff you posted work? Because it looks like various styles of roofing panels that I can get here, all of which you'd be using gasketed screws to install.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Okay, so regional terminology difference. This is nothing that anyone in a trade here would call "standing seam". Sure, some of it looks like standing seam, but it's just stell roofing panels with a hidden fastener system. Actual standing seam is soldered together as I mentioned. But that's not something someone the west coast would have been likely to ever come across. In the Boston to DC corridor it's really drat common. I saw a decent amount of it in the south as well.

I doubt any of it has been installed on new construction since the 1930s or earlier. Also, it's not often used on normal pitched roofs (you'd find slate there) and is more of a solution for low pitch porch roofs and other places that would most likely get a rubber roof these days.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Oct 8, 2020

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Elviscat posted:

How does a fire suppression system work with a well? Is there an accumulator, or can the well pump provide enough GPM to run the system on its own?

Depends on what the well can produce vs. the fireflow calculations. Very often you are looking at a cistern or tanks of a sufficient capacity for the structure and almost always you're looking at a fire pump, very often a non-electric one.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

tangy yet delightful posted:

fast forward 5 years, there's a new cathedral on the NW coast of the USA

I will bring my broken rover and subaru offereings there to worship.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

BuckyDoneGun posted:

But on that last line, do you mean to say it can be illegal to collect rainwater?

Absolutely. Water rights west of the Mississippi are wild. Rain barrels capturing water from your home's gutters can be considered stealing from the downtsream water rights holders.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

lol 2x4s and drywall. That would be a massive upgrade.

Think 1x2 furring strips and luan paneling.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

kastein posted:

Now I'm debating using clear corrugated siding on that part though... Because this won't have any lights in it.

I assumed that was the plan or just leftover sheets.

Depends on the usage. You drat well know you can get battery powered lights that will last for YEARS of occasional usage or just bring your battery portables in when necessary. If you're gonna be in there in the day on the reg than use the clear stuff and when you're past that high usage hump and it gets nasty after 10 years you can take it off and throw a sheet of T1-11 on it.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

daslog posted:

When the door closes on me (and it always does) it's pitch black.

This is honestly a good enough quality of life reason to just put in at least a few panels for now.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I guess plastic photodegrades, leading to it breaking down faster than a normal roof would? But it's not like that's a terribly big deal, it's easy to remove and replace when the time comes.

It does but that just seems to make it cloudy as it sits up there doing its job for decades anyway. Most barns around here just have a sheet of corrugated plastic every few panels and you swap them out every 20 years or whatever. The only time I've had issues was with really old stuff and hail storms.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Oh man, I thought this was a quick and dirty knock together shed. That looks really nice.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NoSpoon posted:

Aren’t the fasteners on the roofing meant to be on the peaks not in the valleys?

It sucks either way - in the peaks and you have too much flex and heat expansion which will either break the roofing material or loosen the fastener or you put it in the valley and rely on the gasket that is part of the fastener. Putting them in the valley is the accepted correct way. I'm not even sure how you control the torque well enough to put them on the peaks without breaking stuff or bending stuff (in the case of metal roofing).

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NoSpoon posted:

Most of the roofs in this part of the planet are corrugated iron, including mine. Definitely screws on the peaks. I guess we use fancy tek screws that probably help get them just right. Something like this.

Those look similar to the ones I used for my last metal roof install. The manufacturer very much wanted you putting screws in the valley or the warranty (20 year?) was void.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

kastein posted:

someone paid nearly 100k for this.
This bolt is a hardware store grade ANSI head size non flanged bolt. The head is so large I can't get a socket past the pulley, the nut on the other side is buried in Narnia and is a lock nut so I have to fight it off one tick of the rachet at a time.

someone paid nearly 100k for this.

You know why: it was built in a metal shed on the side of I90 in Indiana by meth heads, as are all RVs.

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