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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

kastein posted:

Alarbus is correct. My wife inherited (well, early, they realized they weren't safe to drive it anymore, nor fix it, and wanted it out of the driveway) a 1994 Safari Trek 2830 RV which we will be living in while we build the barn and house. Then restoring it after.

We're currently within 20ish miles of our place. Stopped by some friends on the way there and stayed later than planned. Most of the passes and grades on 101 and i5 were brutal since this thing weighs 11000lb and has a whole 135hp at sea level, but it made it.

good god a 4BD in that thing? how fast were you pulling hills? 20mph? lmao :stare:
That's an alright floorplan to live in. Try not to look much below the skin, these things are horrors inside.

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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

kastein posted:

My *hip* went through the roof while I was patching it. I'm hosed, I'm going to have to redo the entire structure I'm assuming. I made it waterproof again but it's not pretty. Are these wood or metal house frame?

Yeah, criminally slow. I think we dropped to 25 or 30 on the Mount Shasta grades and the same on Siskiyou. Cuesta was brutal too, I had to stop and cool down to avoid hitting the red zone.

But we made it and I'm fighting blackberries right now.

The fuel tank is alright, it fits at least 35ish gallons on this model. We filled up 3 times after starting with a nearly full tank and ended up with about half a tank.

E: oh hey the spec sheet I have looked at ten times in the last 2 weeks says 33 gallons. It has been getting nearly 12mpg with my foot on the floor.


Metal framing is usually some 1x1 or 1x2 along the edges. Wood is similar materials, with a ton of staples/glue. If its an aluminum frame it will tout it on the marketing materials. It honestly doesn't mean much as it still needs to rely on wood otherwise the aluminum will just crack. It will still use wood around windows and vent mounts. In the middle of the roof its all "structural" 1/8" plywood glued to styrofoam. Facets like vents and such will have some wooden/metal/plastic reinforcement framing around it, sometimes with a crossmember that ties it into the side beams(A/C). These are built in sections, from the inside out. The exterior walls are built on a table, pressed together, then bolted to the coach.
I've a ton of reference photos if you need anything specific.

The "shop" that rebuilt the roof on mine just threw another layer of 1/8" over the rot and then a new rubber layer on it. Complete bullshit and a 100% hack.
Peel off the rot if you can, throw down some new plywood with liquid nails or whatever (epoxy!), skin over that with aluminum or fiberglass, Glue the roof vents and hatches down with 3m-4200, forget about it forever. Their hack made it a 200% chore to fix the solar panels to the coach. They've held up fine though.

30ish up Shasta is painful as hell. I'm betting the thing has no pryometer too so there's no indication to how hard its working. My old rig pulled ~45 through that area, though I did get sandbagged by an old lady in a class-c which meant yeah about 35-40 till the turbo wasn't blowing hot air. My worst was the 9% grade coming out of death valley onto Panamint springs. dirty air filter, lousy rad, 100F ambient, ~25-30mph. brutally slow, brutally hot.
12mpg is pretty good for what it is though, I'm averaging about 9.5. The big pushers/buses and such run 8-12 so you're not far off the mark other than not having their power.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

kastein posted:

Never doing major structural repairs on a house/RV while living in it again.

I too learned this the hard way. It cost me an awesome platform and nearly everything.



STR posted:

Found a couple of videos showing one in good shape - that's pretty drat nice. Especially for free.* (it'll cost more than a brand new one by the time you're done...)

Also found the same spec sheet Alarbus ran across. The gently caress were they thinking with that engine in something meant to hit highway speeds? I'd expect a Detroit or something equally beefy, not that puny rear end Isuzu.

Yeah agreed, that is a really really dinky engine for a RV. Like doubling the power with a 5.3.... then putting snails on it.. Detroits aren't found in anything smaller than the largest of pushers. For the small/midsized class-a its 6BT/6CT in this era or some disposapillar (3126/3176) (80s ran king with garbo 8.2 detroits, 3208/3206 disposapillars. All in N/A flavor.)


kastein posted:

- structural
- 1/8
- ERROR: DOES NOT COMPUTE

No pyro, the answer to how hard it was working is "my right foot is literally sore from pushing the drat pedal into the floorboards for a thousand miles". I just got home and peeled out of the drugstore parking lot by accident because I jumped on the drat throttle like I was still hauling 11k lbs with 135hp :v:

My rough plan was something like that - pull it apart, see how it was put together, put it back together better.

Oh you want to keep it mobile? what are you thinking for a repower? There's probably not much that can be done with a 4 pot idi making all of 135hp. Pump is probably set really conservatively so that it can't melt a piston.
fwiw we had better luck cutting physical cardboard footprints of the solar and playing tetris than he and I did with building a model in CAD and placing solar that way.

Same, the whole 'structure' of the camper is this Elmer's glued together luan poo poo. Lmao. Just lmao. how does this fly! The actual oem stuff is thinner than 1/8. Its like 3/32" or something of that nature. Fairing filler and a sander make it what it ain't. 6 mos in, only one epoxied joint cracked and that's my fault for not re-skinning the section.

Careful with "pull it apart see how it was put together, put it back together better." He was very "one project at a time, no creep, no taking this thing apart to the point of being unable to reassemble".... 2 weeks later: The whole curb-side and bunk is stripped to the "studs" full reno ahoy.

E: I'm in central Oregon and probably will be tooling around the PNW for the next 2 months or so. If you wanna sling some wrenches I'm down.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Heh go from a 4BD to a 4BT. There's a little on the internet for those, some mention the turbo kinda sucks. At least its intercooled. Throw some gauges on it, bump the timing. Do some runs, slowly increase fuel but keep it a haze under boost. (pull a gp after a good run to see if its getting too hot from too much timing). Someone mentioned bumping the timing to 16deg. No idea what its running for an intake or exhaust, Pyro temps can be reduced through screwing with those.

IMO? swap it. Bolt that engine to a generator head and make it drink B100 or whatever.

The curved roof will probably be a pain but its all RV stuff so its a house of cheap cards and done in the cheapest laziest way possible. Worst case? flash it with some 1/8" curved aluminum like whats used in box-truck upfit bodies.

Yeah figured out you were back home already which is no biggie, not like we're on some timeline or anything. We're trying out the area to see if its where we want to buy. Probably another 3-4 weeks in Oregon before rolling into Washington. The desert SW didn't work out in that regard. You gave me the coords a while back though I'm not gonna show up without planning and notice for all parties involved, actually, is the plot next to yours still on the market? I don't mind scaring off methies. I'll actually be in Bend later next week to grab some MTB parts and paper maps for the region.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

kastein posted:

Same

However, it rained its dick off today and none of it made it inside! So I'm declaring this a victory.

Fuckyeah playing with caulk around rvs sometimes pays off. .... in the short term anyway

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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
They are absolutely pouring water into your walls.
I may/may not have installed mine with 4200 which may/may not have been a huge pain in the rear end.

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