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Elmnt80 posted:You doing the fancy rear end dual row chain that tinal talked about or saying gently caress it, it won't last until a 4th chain? I'm going with the single row chain. If we get another 100k miles out of this chassis, I will be impressed and at that point I will happily do the chain job again.
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Apr 3, 2021 21:48
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nadmonk posted:I've got a new head and timing chain set coming. The timing chain looks to be fine now, but it also has 100k miles on it. Yeah that's very much a "while it's apart" job once you're that deep into the engine, IMO. I'd still trust the chain if I wasn't already in there; the guides and timing cover, OTOH..... Any evidence of the chain trying to drink coolant from the cover?
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Apr 4, 2021 14:07
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STR posted:Yeah that's very much a "while it's apart" job once you're that deep into the engine, IMO. I'd still trust the chain if I wasn't already in there; the guides and timing cover, OTOH..... Not that I've been able to see. I still have to get it fully off to confirm, but from what I could see, everything looks fine in there. I did pull the 268 cam that was on my current head while I'm waiting for the new parts. I'm seeing a bit of pitting on 3 of the cam lobes.    The rocker assembly looks fine, all of the followers look to be nice and smooth.
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Apr 5, 2021 14:02
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That's when you do the fingernail test. It definitely doesn't look new, but so long as it doesn't catch a nail, it's probably okay for now. The 22R family is pretty loving dependable too, you have to actively work to kill them (until the chain eats through the timing cover). Those lobes do look pretty ugly, but if it's a high lift cam, that might be normal if the rest of the valvetrain is stock? I honestly have no clue though. I am quite literally a know-nothing on this, but I'd probably be looking for a new cam and rockers with that kind of wear, unless you just want to slam it back together and get a year or two out of it (kinda sounds like your plan anyway). You did mention this thing is a rust bucket, right? If that's the case, gently caress it, slam it back together and drive it until the frame snaps in half. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:27 on Apr 5, 2021 |
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Apr 5, 2021 15:22
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STR posted:That's when you do the fingernail test. lmao, given the state of rust, I'm sure the frame will snap long before the engine gives out. The rockers actually look great. I didn't see any wear on them and they feel perfectly smooth under a finger.   The valve springs are "HD" springs according to the hand written notes that came with it. The cam came from Engbldr. The new head will come with a standard cam and springs. So if this one is toast, not a big deal. Two of the three lobes do catch my nail. The one on #4 being the worst
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Apr 5, 2021 15:46
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The cam is a little crumby. Likely just a regrind issue. T6 + zddp additive and it should perform till the frame snaps. If you are planning to roll this engine to another chassis or take it somewhere that your life may depend on it, drop a new cam in, otherwise it'll be fine. It'll grind a lobe down at some point and the oil pump/filter will catch the swarf. The followers look healthy.
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Apr 5, 2021 17:30
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Timing chain cover is fully off. Water pump and oil pump look just fine. Almost disaster removing the water pump, this bold sheered. Thankfully the water pump was able to be wiggled slowly off and the bolt itself was able to unscrew from the block:  Turns out when the previous owner did the timing chain the upgraded one of the chain guides to metal backed, but not the other.  Alternator with its fancy rust inhibitor layer:  I'm not entirely certain the chain tensioner was replaced when the chain was replaced. It looked pitted and crusty.  Everything is off the front and top of the block now. I'm still planning on dropping the oil pan, I just didn't feel like crawling under the 4Runner today to do that. 
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Apr 5, 2021 22:47
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It does look like the chain was rubbing a bit on a couple of the chain guide bolts. 
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Apr 5, 2021 23:02
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whats the back of the front cover look like? i think it should be p obvious if there was some chainsaw action going on
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Apr 6, 2021 07:53
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Raluek posted:whats the back of the front cover look like? i think it should be p obvious if there was some chainsaw action going on The back of the cover is fine. No wear or anything there. I didn't really have any reason to suspect the chain was bad. Based on great input from Tinal and CSB, the smart move was to replace it now since the current chain has about 100k miles on it.
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Apr 6, 2021 13:34
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Looks good:
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Apr 6, 2021 16:23
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Parts have begun arriving! 
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Apr 7, 2021 18:30
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More parts arriving. Including this valve cover gasket:  The part number is the correct Fel-Pro part number for a 22RE. What is in the package, however, is NOT for a 22RE. Bad news: I get to deal with returning this eBay purchased gasket. Good news: I finally looked through my box of crap and I already have a valve cover gasket on hand. And three exhaust manifold gaskets.
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Apr 9, 2021 14:45
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Still waiting on some final parts for the 4Runner to get going on putting it all back together. In the meantime, the C10 started having a weird intermittent 'wanting to start' issue. The culprit: https://i.imgur.com/dvscPWE.mp4 The negative terminal connection was a bit loose as well, so new connections, clipped off a bit of the cables, new crimps on those other connectors, and a little liquid electrical tape to help protect the crimps. 
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Apr 11, 2021 02:04
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Get better battery terminals. Those suck rear end.
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Apr 11, 2021 12:34
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sharkytm posted:Get better battery terminals. Those suck rear end. The plan is to replace the cables eventually. This is a 'good enough for now' solution that took 10 minutes to install.
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Apr 11, 2021 16:54
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I forget where you're located but if you're gonna be in central Mass any time soon with it I can crimp on better lugs, bring it by anytime. If you won't be, the crimper I recommend (best choice products 15 or 16 ton) is like 60 bucks on Amazon and pays for itself fast. I've made new battery cable sets for 4 or 5 people with mine at this point, plus everything I drive.
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Apr 11, 2021 17:22
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kastein posted:I forget where you're located but if you're gonna be in central Mass any time soon with it I can crimp on better lugs, bring it by anytime. If you won't be, the crimper I recommend (best choice products 15 or 16 ton) is like 60 bucks on Amazon and pays for itself fast. I've made new battery cable sets for 4 or 5 people with mine at this point, plus everything I drive. Ha, as much as I would love to swing by, I'm in northern Michigan, so a bit of a drive. Thanks for the crimper suggestion, I've got a 16t one added to my shopping list.
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Apr 12, 2021 13:18
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The parts store has battery cables in many lengths with good quality ends on them for much less money than I expected.
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Apr 12, 2021 19:45
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sharkytm posted:Get better battery terminals. Those suck rear end. I hate them, and yet they're still on my C10 15 years later. I actually have the hammer-style crimper for battery cables, but while looking for supplies to build my own cables I stumbled across this guy on eBay and have been just buying premade cables from him instead. Rewired my TJ this way and will eventually do the C10 and Opel.
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Apr 12, 2021 22:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:I hate them, and yet they're still on my C10 15 years later. lol same, but 13 years. about once a year i have to wire brush all the corrosion out of the terminal and put it back together, tell myself i gotta replace the leads, then forget about it for another year will keep that ebay seller in mind kastein posted:the crimper I recommend (best choice products 15 or 16 ton) is like 60 bucks on Amazon for some reason i thought you had the HF one. did you upgrade? like it better?
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Apr 13, 2021 09:18
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I have both. The HF stays at home or in the truck depending on whether I'm going to make cables for someone somewhere else, the BCP one stays at the hangar. I'm not really sure which I would say I prefer, the HF one maxes out at 4awg, the other doesn't.
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Apr 13, 2021 17:05
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Moderate progress. I'm still waiting on a few minor things to put the finishing touches on. Like bolts and studs for the intake and exhaust manifolds. I was also laying awake the other night and it occurred to me the EGR block off plates hadn't gotten here yet. Turns out I wasn't really paying attention and accidentally ordered them from China, so that set will be here around May 10th. Needless to say, I've ordered another set domestically that should be here by Monday. However! I did have enough bits to get the new cylinder head on, torqued, new timing chain (OSK set but with metal backed chain guides), and set valve lash.  My plan is get the timing chain cover on (new bolts should be getting here today), then undo the engine mounts, raise the engine just a bit, and drop the oil pan to clean it out and replace the oil pan gasket.
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Apr 14, 2021 13:57
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Still waiting on the EGR block off plates. Turns out I messed up on the original purchase and ordered them from China. They'll be here in May. I've instead ordered a new set domestically, they should be here by Monday. Thankfully these aren't expensive. I'm sure it will make some of you very happy, I've removed the old nylon oil pressure sending tube and plugged the outlet in the engine block. Timing chain cover back on:  Distributor back on (I'll do a final timing check later, but it should be mostly dialed in), power steering pump, alternator, water pump pulley, and fan clutch reattached along with new belts.  I still need to torque the intake and exhaust manifolds to spec. Waiting until the block off plates come for that.
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Apr 17, 2021 00:25
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Slight set back with the head gasket. I got everything put together, the part of the head gasket in front of the block, between the head and the timing chain cover was damaged during installation. My fault, I was dumb and put the cylinder head on first, then tried putting the timing chain cover on which didn't allow for enough clearance for the already in place head gasket. I tried to replace that front part between the cover and head with RTV. It worked great, except where it didn't. Where it didn't was directly in line with the timing chain which proceeded to yeet oil out at speed. Other than all of the oil flying out, the engine runs great with the new head on. Shortly before I realized the oil leak situation: https://i.imgur.com/c6V8i3k.mp4 I think I have a small coolant leak on the heater core inlet or outlet. Not bad, just a drip. Most likely because some PO beat the crap out of the inlet/outlet. So anyway.... New head gasket should be here shortly. To assist: A new toy  I already have the 1/2" version and it is a beast and I love it. It is also overkill for a good amount of what I need an impact wrench for and many situations it is just a bit too big. In truck related news, I finally decided to throw the appropriate driven gear on for the speedo. The speedometer had been reading 85mph when GPS showed me going 55mph (~2,400 rpm if memory serves). I wasn't certain when I had put on there, so decided to go back to the trusty Chevy tranmissions-speedometer drive/driven gear calculators. I thought I maybe had a 3.73 rear end initially, but started thinking it was 4.10. You can see from this pic the drive gear is the pink 7 tooth (yes, I know it's a worm gear and technically it's just one spiral):  Sorry, I couldn't let this pic disappear into the archives in the old thread. So threw in my info: TH350 transmission 4.10 rear gear ratio 28 inch tire diameter (as as calculated based on a 275/60R15 on a 15" wheel) 7 tooth drive gear The calculator indicated 20.6 tooth driven gear. I put a 21 tooth driven in place. The speedometer only showed 75mph when I'm actually going 55mph. Put the 22 tooth on for a bit more accuracy, but obviously, still not great. With the speedometer at 55mph GPS shows me going 41-42mph. Pretty sure that cements the rear end ratio being 4.88. Not ideal for highway cruising I guess. If I upgraded the drive gear to a 10 tooth, a 35 tooth driven gear should make it accurate. This brings up another issue. The TH350 housing on Chevrolets has a 1" diameter housing. Pontiacs, Oldsmobiles, and Pontiacs had a 2"+ housing. There are driven gear tooth counts from 18-22 and 34-45. Those higher tooth counts require the 2" housing and won't fit the 1". I'm pretty sure that leaves my options as: -Live with it. -Swap a Buick, Oldsmobile, or Pontiac TH350 tail housing on it -Swap the ring and pinion gears for something with a more usable rear ratio like a 3.73 or 4.10.
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Apr 21, 2021 16:53
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Jesus.  NSFW that poo poo. It's been a long time since I've seen one of those memes.
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Apr 21, 2021 17:29
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nadmonk posted:I'm pretty sure that leaves my options as: Comedy option: Install electronic speedometer. Realize you have no way to drive said speedometer without a newer transmission. Install newer transmission, which can't possibly fit behind a GenI SBC. Install LS, problem solved. Realistic option: there are speedo cable gearboxes that can get you where you want to be. Eons ago when my C10 first got swapped from the three on the tree to a TH400, it had a similarly out of whack speedometer. As an extremely newly licensed driver it never occurred to me that the speedometer could be that far off so the very first drive was far slower than it actually should have been  In those ancient times where "GPS speedometer" wasn't a thing, we paid a local specialist shop to calibrate it. Today I'd order from https://speedometercablesusa.com/gear_box_adapters.html and be done.
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Apr 21, 2021 18:39
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IOwnCalculus posted:Comedy option: Huh, that's pretty cool. Honestly though, I'll probably at some point swap the rear end ratio to something slightly more livable than a 4.88 since I'm not planning on this being a drag truck. It's amazing how much of what I've done on this thing is literally just "unfuck what the PPO did".
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Apr 21, 2021 19:05
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nadmonk posted:Honestly though, I'll probably at some point swap the rear end ratio to something slightly more livable than a 4.88 since I'm not planning on this being a drag truck. TruckThings.txt. Are you going to swap the gears yourself or farm it out?
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Apr 21, 2021 19:21
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cursedshitbox posted:TruckThings.txt. I'm not sure. It does seem to involve things I enjoy such as "hitting things with hammers" but other things I don't currently possess the appropriate gear for like "measuring backlash".
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Apr 21, 2021 19:23
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Since that's a desirable ratio I'd look at selling it and buying one that bolts in with factory installed gears in it already, the ones you want are factory available ratios right? I bet you could actually make money on that swap.
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Apr 21, 2021 19:31
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kastein posted:Since that's a desirable ratio I'd look at selling it and buying one that bolts in with factory installed gears in it already, the ones you want are factory available ratios right? I bet you could actually make money on that swap. They are, typical stock was either 3.73 or 4.10. Not a bad idea. I'll hunt around and see what I can find. Maybe there's something that hasn't been reduced to rear end shaped pile of rust.
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Apr 21, 2021 19:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:Comedy option: : "Oh cool, you LS-swapped your 4Runner?" : 'Yeah, the speedometer was off...'
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Apr 21, 2021 20:26
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:
I haven't even mentioned the bathroom renovation. Way too many projects currently.
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Apr 21, 2021 20:33
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nadmonk posted:It's amazing how much of what I've done on this thing is literally just "unfuck what the PPO did". This really should be a new title for the “what did you do to your car today?” thread.
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Apr 21, 2021 20:53
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kastein posted:Since that's a desirable ratio I'd look at selling it and buying one that bolts in with factory installed gears in it already, the ones you want are factory available ratios right? I bet you could actually make money on that swap. The only kicker here is that coil-spring truck axles aren't super common. Not that they never existed, but there's more demand than supply in my experience. Which would help with selling the old one, but it means that the only "direct" replacements are '63 through early '70 axles. Late '70 through '72 will also bolt in but they're wider (same width as 73+ trucks). If you can find a good one to swap, by all means do, but at least in my half-hearted searching (especially since I have a leaf spring truck with no panhard bar mount on the axle housing) you aren't going to trip over a dozen of them in a junkyard like you would a leaf spring 12 bolt.
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Apr 21, 2021 21:31
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I have figured out what is wrong with the speedometer gearing. The issue, is that I am an idiot. Way back when I had the truck up, I did the axle-wheel-spinny-county thing and came up with a rear end ratio of 3.73. That's what I based my initial driven gear figuring on. I then counted the teeth on the drive gear. This is where I failed. It turns out, counting is hard. And I was counting the teeth wrong. So the GM 7 tooth drive gear is pink. The GM 10 tooth drive gear is red or purple. Or they may not be depending on supplier I guess? So this whole time I was thinking I had a 7 tooth drive gear. When I paid closer attention to the RPM and GPS indicated speed, I found out I was turning at 3,000 rpm at 60 mph. A huge thank you to Cursedshitbox for turning me on to the gearing calculator on the Grim Jeeper site. Punching in all of the information, literally the only way my tire size and transmission combination could result in 3,000 rpm @ 60 mph was if it was a 3.73 rear end. Which means that drive gear is a 10 tooth. It also means I can't get an appropriate driven gear combo without swapping out the drive gear. So instead, I'll end up getting a 26.7% speedometer reduction gear adapter thing. Oddly enough, the original drive/driven gear combo I had was accurate if I just read the speedo in KPH.
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Apr 28, 2021 13:35
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4Runner update: It lives, finally. I replaced the head gasket....again. This one is a MLS head gasket. A slight detour as I found the front bolt hole that goes from the head into the front top of the timing chain cover was stripped out. Thankfully it is out in this protruding bit. So I drilled it through, filed the bottom flat(ter) and did a through bolt slathered with Ultra Black. Got it all back together today. Found another massive oil leak during my test drive, because Fel-Pro doesn't bother molding their valve cover gaskets into the shape of the valve cover, so it slipped out of the grove on the intake side when I was installing it. So pulled it off, reinstalled, I believe it is good to go now. I need to do another test drive to make sure, but I think the saga is finally done. For now. https://i.imgur.com/3yzPXFa.mp4
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Apr 30, 2021 01:10
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The driver's side window hasn't been staying up, so I figured the 52 year old window regulator was due for a change.  Well.... At least the regulator is in, right? Sigh New window ordered and on the way. 
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May 15, 2021 02:03
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New window received and installed in the C10! Along with some nice new interior and exterior trim:  As easy as it is to remove the door card, those doors are not designed for ready access to the inner bits.
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May 19, 2021 22:35
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