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nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


Haven't done much car stuff in a bit thanks to a surprise bathroom renovation and planning and throwing our own wedding.





And buying a motorcycle (2001 Suzuki SV650S)


Back to car stuff, albeit, not necessarily by choice on this first project.
I live near a road that I have to take regularly which is, to be blunt, worse than poo poo. I don't ever go fast on this road and try to avoid the potholes. But that is a fool's errand. So here is one of my front 2 year old Bilstein B4 struts. Blown out, leaking schmoo.

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nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


Oh, I also checked with the road commission and they specifically do NOT cover damage from potholes.
So happy to be eating the cost of some new B4s.

Or do I say screw it and get some Koni Special Actives.... I have them on the BMW and they are pretty great.....

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


I said screw it. Konis are on the way.

Also an AC compressor for the Element, because I guess going two years on non-functional AC has been long enough.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

nadmonk posted:

I said screw it. Konis are on the way.

Also an AC compressor for the Element, because I guess going two years on non-functional AC has been long enough.

Nice! Koni makes nice stuff.

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


sharkytm posted:

Nice! Koni makes nice stuff.

I actually already have a set on the BMW and really like them.

And this new set got here surprisingly quickly.


Top nut on the rears being stubborn.


MORE TORQUES!


Pretty



The fronts only have me a little bit of trouble. I did have to cut off the sway bar links.
I should have gone straight for the angle grinder but instead tried the saw-z-all first. Accidentally catching my thumb between the reciprocating part and the saw body.


Tomorrow I'll throw the sway bar links on. I had to run into town to grab them and took a break.


In less auto related happenings, I found the SV650S' Micron exhaust routes differently than stock.



Exhaust wrap and a heat shield are on the way.

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


New sway bar end links received and installed:


Just a peek of red:


Rides and drives great. No more weird rattle from a blown apart strut is nice.
The blown out 2 year old Bilstein I was able to relatively easily compress. Shame to have gotten so little life out of it.

Heat shield for the bike got here.
And rather than being unmarked, brushed stainless, is shiny and etched.



A little 400 grit sandpaper took it down nicely:


Looks fine enough, not like anyone will be able to see it with a foot in front of it anyways:


Also sorted out some other odds and ends on the bike, like some unsecured components.



The rear LED was just kind of loose so I made some grommets out of a rubber vacuum cap to hold it tight.



Next up:
Element's AC compressor

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


It's been busy.

First things: The 2001 Suzuki SV650S had the turn signals replaced with flush mounts in the front and a combined taillight turn signal cluster.
And whatever these cheap rear end LEDs were up front:


At Cursedshitbox's suggestion, I got some aftermarket replacements for an Africa Twin and couldn't be happier with them. So much brighter and more visible.





With the aftermarket exhaust, I melted off a good chunk of my boot's heel. I picked up this heat shied. The only issue was the original clamps to hold it had the tightening screws in the back and with the amount of clearance between the aftermarket exhaust routing and the swing arm, the very first ride it sheered one off. So I picked up some T-Bolt clamps and welded on nuts to bolt the shield too. So far it has worked great:


We also sold the Element to our kid's boyfriend who needed a 'new' reliable ride. Considering all the work done on it in the last three years, it should server him for quite a while.
Recent work: New AC compressor, new exhaust including cat
Goodbye Element!


To replace the Element, we bought a 220,000 mile young 2006 Subaru Outback 2.5i. It's not the turbo engine, but the naturally aspirated one. Which of course means it is gluten and GMO free.


It has been pretty well maintained over the course of its life (yes, the head gaskets were replaced).
No visible fluid leaks.

There were some things to be done though, given that the most recent own was quite as up on the maintenance as the prior owner.
First and foremost: the stereo had no AUX jack, Bluetooth, and the radio didn't work because the antenna wire was severed at the lift gate.


Mmmmm, crusty

Nothing fancy, just a JVC replacement along with an in car antenna for NPR duty.


The headlights were also pretty bad. One was incredibly dim due to the hazy, the other had a burned out bulb, but more concerning is that there were cracks in the lens. I opted to not bother refinishing them given the state of the one and get a pair of Depo replacements.



Post playing in the mud puddles drive.

The front tires also had a rather alarming amount of wear on them. Particularly alarming since the date code on all four tires is 3320 (so manufactured in August of last year?)

The rears look almost brand new. The fronts, not so much.

How bad was it? When we took it in for an alignment, they couldn't even measure the toe angle.


Rear sway bar end links replaced when it was in. New General G-Max are being mounted to the wheels today (didn't have them in stock when we took it in).

Thankfully, I had already ordered Billizak WS90s and new steel wheels for the winter, so it's riding on those for a couple days. So we get a preview for winter.


Wasn't necessarily a massive fan of the stock rock guards. They are ok, but I figure proper mud flaps are more in the spirit of a Northern Michigan Outback.
I had heard IKEA cutting boards work great for this. Turns out they changed the design and they are now much, much thinner than they used to be. About 1.15 mm thick. I ended up ordering some of the finest, cheapest mud flaps I could find. Genuine Xukey Universal Mud Flaps.

A wee bit of mud collected behind the front drive's side rock guard.

These are the clips holding on the stock guards. Whoever designed these is a dick. That nut isn't captive and just spins around. Also, with the wheel well liners in place you can't get a ratchet on there. And the ridges on that back side prevent a wrench from seating properly on the nut. I ended up cutting them all off with my Saw-z-All (new toy is a DeWalt 20v Max reciprocating saw, love that thing).


The fronts were a pain in the dick to mount. The plastic press in clip, retainer things weren't quite long enough. I ended up using bits from my Suzuki motorcycle fairing mounting parts kit.

Overall, I think they came out pretty well.




Georgia watching her kid attentively.

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


There were things I knew I wanted to do to the Subaru.
Specifically, I wanted to replace:
Struts, with something not ancient (in the rear) and not Napa brand (in the front)
Wheel bearings
CV Axles (several boots visibly cracking)
Rear control arms and bushings.
Dust shields
Parking brakes, because someone took all of the gear off of the driver side.
Front sway bar links.

Before I could embark on that journey, a coolant leak developed.


I narrowed that down to a cracked plug at the top of the radiator.

Turns out this is a radiator for a turbo model and since mine isn't a turbo, there's nowhere for that outlet to go.

Plug replaced.


Only for the car to develop ANOTHER coolant leak.
All hoses looked fine, nothing visibly leaking, until I got under the car.


That looks to be coming from the back of the water pump.

So guess time to replace the timing belt and water pump (and alternator belt and AC belt).

One belt looked OK


The other....less so


The timing belt itself looked ok, still getting replaced.


Mmmm, crusty thermostat.



I think this is the coolant leak culprit. The gasket wasn't stuck to the bottom like everywhere else.



Bottom of the old gasket.



Get new gasket out of package, oh great, a little crease in the valley.


Flattened the flat part with flat pliers and reshaped the valley with a ballpoint pen.
Did a thin coat of silicone on each side. Started to torque the bolts. Went well until the last two. Torque wrench never clicked, just kept spinning.

Whoever was in there last, must have way overtorqued these.

Threads on the top two holes stripped right out.


This is just half of what came out, the full depth of the hole.


Time to worship at the dark alter of the Helicoil gods.

First one went fine.


This kit was cheaper than I should have gotten. The tool to turn in the coil and the tool to punch in the bottom were the same tool. And not made out of tool steel. After punching the first one, I noticed the tool was bent, so I tapped it straight.

This is what happened on the second one:


Thank goodness for Neji-saurus Engineer pliers.


I am now waiting on delivery of a DECENT M6 Helicoil tool.
And a new gasket, because of course the replacement metal gasket got crushed during normal course of installation.

While waiting on that, I figured I could get to the rest of the things on my list.

I am honestly amazed at how easily something things are to work on with this car and how easily some things come out.
ABS sensors? Came out just fine on the fronts (of course, then I saw with the design of the bearing, I didn't REALLY need to take them out).
The CV axles? Came right out of the bearings (only one needed a little tapping).
The first bearing was an absolute bastard to take out, but only because I was an idiot and not doing it the correct way.


The trick? Get the bearing bolts out part way, then put a socket on each one and give a few whacks with a hammer. Pops that bastard right out.
PUT THE SOCKET ON! You don't want to gently caress up your bolts.


I did encounter some resistance with a passenger side strut bolt.


Can't imagine why. Passenger side bolt on the right.


Various stages of CV axle boot damage and wear.




Fronts all done!


I used KYB Quick Struts and I cannot stress how easy this were. I've always popped the old springs off and reused them.

Moved to the rears, those are still in progress. I have most of the control arms out.
I'm waiting on new bushings for the rear, upper control arms. Still working to get the inner bolts out.
The rear, forward lower control arms I am replacing with adjustable ones.

Parking brake hardware removed with proper tools:


It was at this point I realized the parking brake kit I ordered (or any of them) didn't have all of the parts.
So from the driver side, I am missing the parking brake lever and strut.


These parts are apparently a pain in the rear end to find for the Legacy/Outback. The strut is shared between the Outback and Imprezza/Foz, but not the lever.
The left sides are even harder to find than the right. I've got one coming from Canada.

Oh, I also replaced the hood prop rod with gas struts.


And the gas struts for the lift gate.

In other car related news, the 4Runner continues its weight loss diet via oxidation.

Thankfully, my heal rests right on the frame rail and torsion bar when I drive.

We also adopted a 4 year old, 123 pound female Neapolitan Mastiff.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
If those are factory CV shafts you might want to look at getting new boot kits and regreasing and rebooting them instead of scrapping, since they are known for lasting longer than aftermarkets.

I am weird and actually like doing helicoils. At least in aluminum. Can't believe someone actually stripped those bolts out, what kind of a gorilla worked on this thing before you?

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


kastein posted:

If those are factory CV shafts you might want to look at getting new boot kits and regreasing and rebooting them instead of scrapping, since they are known for lasting longer than aftermarkets.

I am weird and actually like doing helicoils. At least in aluminum. Can't believe someone actually stripped those bolts out, what kind of a gorilla worked on this thing before you?

This is my first time doing them. So just had a bit of trepidation. Weirdly, the Heli-Coil name brand tool broke on me. The no name replacement worked perfectly.

I think only two or three of the shafts are original Subaru. All of them felt a bit sus on at least one end.

And as far as the previous gorilla? Just your average repair garage.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

nadmonk posted:

And as far as the previous gorilla? Just your average repair garage.

Ahhh yes The Hulk with a five alarm hangover and a blood hate for all things Subaru.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




kastein posted:

If those are factory CV shafts you might want to look at getting new boot kits and regreasing and rebooting them instead of scrapping, since they are known for lasting longer than aftermarkets.

Dumb but probably true. Wife had an 07 outback that got the axles replaced and it vibrated at idle with aftermarket ones. Subarus are kinda picky with them for whatever reason. They were swapped for OEM and the problem went away.

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


Have not been doing much with the cars. With summer, we at least have all of the motorcycles back in the barn and running.

Today we officially sign over the 1968 C10 to a new owner:


I am actually selling to a woman I went to high school with. Her first car was also a 68 C10 and she is beyond excited about it. She will be the perfect new owner for it and will give it a great home and all of the time and attention I wasn't able to give it.

In the process of trying to sell it, I did have a boomer come by and look at it.
Some things he said:
(looking at the swapped 1976 SBC) "You've got a oil leak. Do you know where that's coming from?"
(talking about how he was looking at it for his niece) "Buying cars for women is different than buying cars for men. They care a lot more about the appearance stuff." (points to some trim on the front that was a little dented)
"I think this is mechanically beyond my niece."
"What kind of mileage does this get?"
"Do you have a build sheet? You really need a build sheet detailing all of the parts you have replaced."
"These lasted so much longer than modern trucks because modern trucks use recycled Chinese metal with all sorts of impurities."
"Be sure to open you gas cap cover when going through the car wash to make sure the gas and salt gets washed out." (Pointing at my new Colorado. Which doesn't actually have a gas cap, just a self closing flap.)
"What's your lowest price?" (before even looking at it)
(Was asking $7,000, which is in line for its condition and prices in the area) "I'll give you $4,000."
(Telling him it originally came with a manual, but a previous owner swapped in a SBC 350/TH350 automatic) "So there's no gear indicator?"
"What's the farthest you've driven this?" (again, 350 swap with a 3.73 rear end, it's loud and fun, no highway cruiser)

Questions from other people:
"Could you daily this?"
"Would you take this 1984 C10 as a trade?"

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


Not my new ride, but my father-in-law picked up a Triumph Spitfire IV for relatively cheaply. I'm not sure what all he had to do to it, but it is running now. He did say the flywheel might have some rust on it. Or, as he said "Put the bumper up against a tree and let the clutch slip a bit, clean the rust off".



It joins some other :discourse: rides:



sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
Your FiL is way cooler than mine.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

Definitely my kinda guy.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
He should swap a rotary into it.

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


The Saab had a close encounter with a coyote last week. Some damage to the Saab, the coyote wasn't quite as lucky.



Thankfully, the damage seems to be limited to a cracked bumper cover, side marker lens, and a broken washer fluid pump.






New parts are on the way, hopefully I'll have it back on the road shortly.

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


Weird, I don't remember ordering anything that would take up a large box that shape.
Oh god....it's the bumper cover.

So this is apparently how they ship.


Folded up like a contortionist.


I'm sure those will come out with time....


Better fitted on the car at least.


Applying the finest Duplicolor rattle can paint job money can buy (plus 5k clear coat).
Far from good, good from far.

The finish on the rest of the car isn't exactly pristine, so this won't look out of place.


When reattaching the various trim, grills, and spoilers, be aware of where your wiring and other components are at all times. Sort of the automotive equivalent of zipping up your fly too soon.


Doesn't look terrible.
Of course, I didn't realize the fog light hole covers needed to go on before the lower grill as their tabs sit behind it.


Fixed (Yes, I know the paint is whatever. No, I don't care on this car.)


As good as new.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
Nice work. The paint looks fine. Orange peel ain't no big deal.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
im absolutely flabbergasted that it came out that well, considering what you had to start with. what the gently caress was that, ive never seen someone just smash the thing into a box like that before

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


Raluek posted:

im absolutely flabbergasted that it came out that well, considering what you had to start with. what the gently caress was that, ive never seen someone just smash the thing into a box like that before

Same, I was worried.
I suspect that is just how the manufacturer of that specific bumper cover does it. There were actually two very solid cardboard tubes taped vertically on either side of where the grill goes to keep that from deforming. So I don't think it was even just the seller being half rear end about it.

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


nadmonk posted:


We also sold the Element to our kid's boyfriend who needed a 'new' reliable ride. Considering all the work done on it in the last three years, it should server him for quite a while.
Recent work: New AC compressor, new exhaust including cat
Goodbye Element!


To replace the Element, we bought a 220,000 mile young 2006 Subaru Outback 2.5i. It's not the turbo engine, but the naturally aspirated one. Which of course means it is gluten and GMO free.



Well, 1 year and 4 months after selling the Element to our oldest's boyfriend, he said he was thinking about selling it and asked if we wanted it (we did ask for first right of refusal if he ever decided to get rid of it).


I know I've mentioned it in a couple other threads.

In that 1.3333 years, normal 200k+ mile car stuff came up. It needed a new battery, he installed an accessory drive belt (his first one, so good on him!), a couple of tires due to others getting damage, and a starter. The starter he tried to do, but ended up having issues reaching it, so he had a shop do the work.
We sold him the Element for $1,500, a pretty hefty amount below its value at the time.

He asked for $3,000. The thing is, we are going to be selling the Subaru to our youngest in a few months when she graduates high school, so we need another to replace and there's no way will find anything that cheap that we know the service history on like that.
We agreed on $2,700. Which I guess would be the same as us paying for those repairs and insurance for that time he owned. it.

His reasoning for wanting to sell it? He wanted something 'easier to work on'.

What did he buy as a replacement for the Element? A 2009 VW GTI.
It is a manual, I don't know the mileage, I'm guessing "a lot".

I guess sooner or later everyone needs to learn a lesson about VWs.


Anyway....
Threw on new quick struts, which means at this point, every single suspension component has been replaced in the last 2 years on this thing. Good to have it home.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




nadmonk posted:

We sold him the Element for $1,500, a pretty hefty amount below its value at the time.

He asked for $3,000.

Look at the set of balls on this one.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

nadmonk posted:

What did he buy as a replacement for the Element? A 2009 VW GTI.
It is a manual, I don't know the mileage, I'm guessing "a lot".

I guess sooner or later everyone needs to learn a lesson about VWs

kids out of his element.

I remember those years. Best of luck to him, I am not competent enough to make a vw work for any length of time.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Suburban Dad posted:

Look at the set of balls on this one.

yea gently caress that kid

pr0craztinazn
Feb 24, 2006
I concur the repair for the Saab turned out really well.

cursedshitbox posted:

kids out of his element.

:perfect:

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

yea gently caress that kid

Fairly confident his new-to-him VW will oblige us on that.

pr0craztinazn fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Feb 20, 2023

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

nadmonk posted:

His reasoning for wanting to sell it? He wanted something 'easier to work on'.

What did he buy as a replacement for the Element? A 2009 VW GTI.

:laffo:

The only remotely difficult mechanical job on the Element is probably the starter, and only bc it's cramped. You should suggest that he start looking at Mk2 turbo Supras, they're famous for being easy to work on (so famous that my old mechanic charges double his normal labor rate to touch them). Or maybe an early 80s turbo RX-7 with vacuum issues. Perhaps a mid 90s Cadillac Northstar - that 300hp in a boat is addicting when it runs

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Feb 21, 2023

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


STR posted:

:laffo:

The only remotely difficult mechanical job on the Element is probably the starter, and only bc it's cramped. You should suggest that he start looking at Mk2 turbo Supras, they're famous for being easy to work on (so famous that my old mechanic charges double his normal labor rate to touch them). Or maybe an early 80s turbo RX-7 with vacuum issues. Perhaps a mid 90s Cadillac Northstar - that 300hp in a boat is addicting when it runs

Hey, replacing head studs is easy, right?

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

STR posted:

:laffo:

The only remotely difficult mechanical job on the Element is probably the starter, and only bc it's cramped. You should suggest that he start looking at Mk2 turbo Supras, they're famous for being easy to work on (so famous that my old mechanic charges double his normal labor rate to touch them). Or maybe an early 80s turbo RX-7 with vacuum issues. Perhaps a mid 90s Cadillac Northstar - that 300hp in a boat is addicting when it runs

Working at dealerships even in the 90’s we could barely fit our hand around the Aurora engine. I just looked at a pic of that Supra engine and it looks rough. My daily has a 2JZ and there is so much room
For activities it’s a joy to maintain

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


Things have been crazy, so I really haven't had a chance to update much.

By our kid's boyfriend's VW?

It is everything I thought it would be and more. He did actually drive it to our house once. The rocker panels are so rusted out they are practically not there.
Also, it probably lacks a bunch of power and was having some sort of misfire issue. The intake valves need to be blasted because they are dirty AF.

Our kid's Vibe is also sketchy as all get out (we tried to get them to buy any number of actually decent used cars).

But at least our youngest is roommates with them now and has the 2006 Subaru with 230,000 miles. This is now the best maintained, most reliable car at their house.

The Element is still going strong, with a little battle damage.0
During a trip (to help the youngest with her first real breakup) wife got clipped in a parking lot. Some body damage, nothing mechanical.


I got a new bumper cover and taillight lens for it, reattached the rear fender cover, which does a fantastic job covering the body damage


Not perfect, but it's a 2008 with 240,000 miles on it and it still runs great, so send it.

Chef Brian
Jul 20, 2004

HAY KB THANKS FOR BUYING ME MY ACCOUNT! I THINK THIS IS AN APPROPRIATE WAY TO THANK YOU! -A-ARSE
Wait a minute, the Element is designed with a (relatively) replaceable rear quarter panel? That's incredible!

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


Chef Brian posted:

Wait a minute, the Element is designed with a (relatively) replaceable rear quarter panel? That's incredible!

I'm not sure if the truth is better or worse. That visible "quarter panel" is actually all plastic, just painted in the case of this one. Above that line level with the top of the taillight is metal, below is just a large plastic piece. I actually mended the cracks with epoxy.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Every time I learn more about Elements I find myself wishing I'd bought a $500 Element instead of a $300 Forester in 2014.

I'd still be driving the first one instead of eventually owning 4 Subarus in 7 years.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




kastein posted:

I'd still be driving the first one instead of eventually owning 4 Subarus in 7 years.

Playing life on hard mode, I see.

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


kastein posted:

Every time I learn more about Elements I find myself wishing I'd bought a $500 Element instead of a $300 Forester in 2014.

I'd still be driving the first one instead of eventually owning 4 Subarus in 7 years.

Having worked on both a 2008 Element and a 2006 Outback over the last few years. The Element hands down. The AWD, hoon potential and road manners of the Subaru are better. But every single other way the Element beats it. Easier to work on, more parts availability, more practical, did I say easier to work on?
Plus the engine will be a K24A4 or K24A8 depending on the year.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Far more reliable and more cargo-shaped, too.

And yeah, I'll take a K24 over an EJ25 any day of the week.

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


So this spring I bought a plow truck. It was a 2000 Silverado 2500HD with 220,000+ miles, and I got it for $1,000.



The guy I bought it from told me two lies.
#1 "It was well maintained."
#2 "The tires hold air."

This truck will basically live at the cabin for the occasional hauling duty and plowing duty.

I noticed it revved very high when idling and got very hot. I even had to pull over a couple of times on the drive home.
A quick look under the hood and it was clear the EGT line was flopping in the breeze.


I bought a new one then found that the bolts on the exhaust manifold were rusted to the point they just broke off. I could not get them drilled out.
So I performed an EGR delete in the sketchiest manner possible:

Pictured: zero fucks given

When he sold it to me, he kept the controller for the plow. Which meant I had to buy a new one.
There was a whole ordeal with making sure the connectors were actually wired properly.
I have upgraded the connectors for the plow control to Duetsche connectors, which is far better than it deserves.
This was done because whatever was there before didn't seem to fit the standard connector that came with the new controller I bought.

After finally getting the wiring sorted, I found out that the plow would raise, lower, and turn to the right. And that was it.

In attempting to diagnose it, I checked the hydraulics.
It looked sort of like pepto cottage cheese.



I drained all of it, there was perhaps a cup of water in with it.

That GMT800 quality showing through:


After major trouble shooting, i determined that the fault with the failure of the plow to turn left, was likely something with the controller. It's well beyond returning it at this point, and like I said before, zero fucks. This truck has lived a hard life and does not deserve nice things.

All of the solenoids work, all of the solenoid valves work.
It was only when the controller was supposed to send a signal for S2 + S3 to open together that it didn't work. But I did determine that if I manually applied power to S2 and S3 together, it would indeed turn left.

So I struck upon an elegant solution.

Mid troubleshooting:


Just ignore this:


I ran a split off of the wire for S2 (this fired alone triggers the plow to turn right). This split I ran to a switch, which I then ran to a split into the wire for S3.

When the switch is off, S2 and S3 trigger individually as they normally would.

With the switch on, when you press the button to turn it right, both S2 and S3 get power, and the plow turns left.

Gaze upon my horrific creation and know that I am beyond shame and god's judgement, for I am already damned to GMT800 ownership.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
That's uhhh certainly a thing.

I probably would have bodged the low beam wiring to run the second solenoid, TBH, it's right there and it's not like you give a poo poo about low beams on a cabin plow truck.

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Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
I would have jammed a power wheelchair joystick in there. This is significantly better.

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