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Leperflesh posted:I also have the 18v ryobi pole battery chainsaw thing, and it's great. I have tried to use it on things that are near the ground and it is awkward to do that though. Also I haven't tried it on small stuff like <1". I don't mean the pole chainsaw....I mean that's what I set out to buy and got it. But it came with this adorable thing too:  And it runs the chain slow enough that you don't need bar oil, so it's not leaking all over everything when you store it. E: better picture for "scale" lol 
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Apr 14, 2024 01:05
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OH! Mine did not come with that. I have exactly one tree that needs chainsawing and I believe we've successfully transitioned it from wildly overgrown and horrible to completely well managed over the last four years so we may never need to chainsaw it again as long as we diligently prune annually. And I would like a chainsaw with a 36" bar for woodworking/alskan mill purposes someday. So I probably won't get that, but it would have been nice to have three years ago.
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Apr 14, 2024 01:10
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I'm so mad I bought the ryobi pruning saw a year before they released the oil free one. Honestly still a surprisingly nice little saw though.
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Apr 14, 2024 01:21
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kid sinister posted:Seconding reciprocating saw, with appropriate blade. Thirding, get a 12-pack of the 10" blades to cut the roots. You have to work your way around the thing, but it's doable. Being angry about something helps.
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Apr 14, 2024 01:33
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Thanks all. I already have a sawzall so I'll grab some appropriate blades and see how it goes. I was thinking a mini chain saw like has been discussed might also be a good option. Anything manual like loppers is going to take forever. These things are fuckin huge and bushy and the branches are thin but there are soooooooooo many and I have like 6 of these fuckers I need to get rid of.
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Apr 14, 2024 02:31
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I just framed this jigsaw puzzle and there is a slight gap between the edge of the jigsaw puzzle and the edge of the mat board. What would be the best way to make it look nicer? I was thinking putting a big piece of paper behind it might help.
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Apr 14, 2024 08:00
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I would blow Dane Cook posted:I just framed this jigsaw puzzle and there is a slight gap between the edge of the jigsaw puzzle and the edge of the mat board. What would be the best way to make it look nicer? I was thinking putting a big piece of paper behind it might help. Can you post a closer shot? Honestly get it re-matted. Shouldn't be expensive. Can even do it yourself depending on how they mounted the puzzle.
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Apr 15, 2024 01:22
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I had my fence replaced a few years ago and it looks good for the most part, about 6ft tall, white pvc panels. Unfortunately, the ground under the fence is uneven, so there are gaps of several inches in some spots, allowing rabbits and other critters to get in my yard. What is the right way to fix this? Is it really just as simple as getting some clean fill dirt and mounding it up and packing it down where needed? I'd prefer a solution that would keep the rabbit out without killing or capturing the rabbit, so my thought is dirt won't stop a burrowing animal. I technically only have access to my side of the fence, so I may not be able to do everything.
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Apr 15, 2024 15:07
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My parents have had (some) success covering the rabbits' most coveted plants in fine metal netting. Affixing the metal mesh onto the pvc panels and extending it a couple feet down underground, then packing it tightly with earth afterwards might prevent rabbits. If the critters are creating small mounds of dirt, it could also be voles, in which case, good luck. There are some very effective humane cage traps. In a particularly bad year, we were catching 2 to 4 chipmunks every day with those. Then I'd chauffeur the cute bastards 15 minutes down the road and release them into the wilderness. I'm adding a lot of qualifiers because those little critters are tenacious and the the best and probably only truly effective solution that also isn't going to poison random wildlife and pets is a fit ratting dog. Fruits of the sea fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Apr 15, 2024 |
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Apr 15, 2024 15:40
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Ha, I have a similar issue with my (inherited from PO) fence, which I'm fixing by getting a whole-rear end new fence that sits closer to the ground, because I hate PVC fences. But assuming that's not realistic for you, what I'd recommend is: 1. Dig a short trench (4-6" deep) along the fence. A mattock is a good tool for this, a shovel will mean moving way more earth than you need to. If you have a lot of fence, a dedicated trenching power tool might be called for. 2. Cut metal wire mesh fabric into a like 1-2' wide strip 3. Put the mesh in the trench, and staple the top edge to the fence 4. Infill the dirt. You gotta remember that rabbits can dig, and will make short work of any loose fill that you try to pile up to stop 'em. They can also fit through quite small spaces; I wouldn't be confident with a mesh spacing of more than 1", and even that might be too big. The mesh goes deep enough that they aren't likely to tunnel under it. I may well end up needing to do this myself anyway, but I'm hoping that the combination of it not being utterly trivial for rabbits to get in, and my dog staking out a presence in the back yard, will be enough to keep 'em off.
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Apr 15, 2024 15:42
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I've been trying to figure that out myself. I don't have any crops or anything I'm worried about, but the idiots sit there until my dogs notice them, and my one dog has come extremely close to catching one which I very much do not want to deal with
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Apr 15, 2024 16:17
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We've got something like these along portions of our fence line that were put in by the previous owners. They seem to do their job. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIG-DEFENCE-XL-Maximum-Animal-Dig-Barrier-5-Pack-DDXL152405/315471537
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Apr 15, 2024 16:28
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The answer is either big cat or small dog
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Apr 15, 2024 19:18
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Are there wood shims that taper from left to right, along the short axis, instead of tapering from one tip to the other?
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Apr 15, 2024 20:53
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Dr. Lunchables posted:The answer is either big cat or small dog I have a small dog. He and the bunny are friends apparently.
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Apr 15, 2024 21:02
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NotNut posted:Are there wood shims that taper from left to right, along the short axis, instead of tapering from one tip to the other? You can make them taper any direction you want.
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Apr 15, 2024 21:09
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You get them from the same shops that sell baseball caps with the bill on the side.
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Apr 15, 2024 21:15
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NotNut posted:Are there wood shims that taper from left to right, along the short axis, instead of tapering from one tip to the other? What could that do that 10 regular shims can't? Or do you mean a shim with the woodgrain running a direction that would make the tip break off super easily
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Apr 15, 2024 21:32
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esquilax posted:What could that do that 10 regular shims can't? It would just be really convenient for my project to have one or two shims that taper that way instead of trimming and stacking a whole bunch of sideways shims.
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Apr 15, 2024 23:39
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You probably want a pack of cedar shingles or something if you’re looking for a wider one. But also, withak posted:You get them from the same shops that sell baseball caps with the bill on the side.
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Apr 16, 2024 02:18
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Is it possible to patch such a thing? Not really expecting a perfect match or anything, but maybe bind the pieces and cover the cushion?
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Apr 16, 2024 03:59
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Probably not. That (p)leather cannot hold a stitch any longer.
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Apr 16, 2024 04:02
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I'm guessing that was caused by the Probably not possible to patch in any good way. I can think of some creatively ugly ways to repair it (duct tape, vinyl patches), but since this again probably split due to age, any kind of patch job wouldn't last as the material has probably lost all its suppleness. That being said, if it were mine, and I was attached to it, I'd consider replacing all the padding/stuffing and re-upholstering it. Maybe do something fun with colors and materials. The technique is referred to as Upholstery Tufting for that diamond pattern, and the wood panel is probably already full of holes to help make that happen.
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Apr 16, 2024 04:15
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They have that color matched rubber cement like stuff that would serve the purpose of resealing the gap, but you’ll never make it look like new
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Apr 16, 2024 13:15
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There are leather repair kits and systems out there, I don't know if they can fix that, though. Stuff like this: https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-2130-Leather-Repair/dp/B01IU3G3NG?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/3M-08579-3PK...M3QFJ3LGZV&th=1
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Apr 16, 2024 14:16
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CzarChasm posted:I'm guessing that was caused by the Correct. Drying/aging related damage at seams. Thanks for your input, y'all. The damage isn't even just this, similar splits occur elsewhere. I'm thinking it probably just isn't worth it.
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Apr 16, 2024 15:13
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So, I finally tore out the old, rotting and dangerous deck and installed some Trex.  I have zero experience doing this (and it shows) but I'm pretty happy overall. Still need to trim the edges and set up new side boards and stairs along with trimming down some screws that refused to go in the last 5%. Don't cheap out on composite screws, people! One thing is that, even after adding more joists to make sure most spans were 12" or less, there are some slightly spongy bits that are bugging me. I don't want to have to take out large sections just to shim them but... ugh.
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Apr 16, 2024 16:31
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 What parts do I need to fix this? The pipe says 1", how can I add a drain at the low point to prevent this next year? Previously, there was a tee fitting instead of the elbow, and the tee pointed outwards with a reducer that a plug screwed into. I know the size of the plug was the same size as my 1/4" air hose fittings, I haven't found the right search terms to find this type of reducer. Does the type of PVC cement used matter? Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Apr 16, 2024 |
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Apr 16, 2024 18:33
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Not Wolverine posted:
I would just replace the elbow with a T with the extra leg pointed down. The reducer you want is actually called a pvc bushing, like https://pvcpipesupplies.com/1-x-1-4-pvc-schedule-40-reducer-bushing-spigot-x-fpt-438-128.html. The other option is to just throw a quarter turn valve on there you can open in the winter. You can use any pvc cement, the blue stuff is faster setting which is why irrigation and pool guys use it a lot. If you use clear make sure you respect the drying time before use.
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Apr 16, 2024 20:30
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TacoHavoc posted:I would just replace the elbow with a T with the extra leg pointed down. The reducer you want is actually called a pvc bushing, like
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Apr 16, 2024 20:50
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Anyone have suggestions for deck railings? All the prefab ones are crazy expensive and I don't have a truck to haul around big pieces of lumber.
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Apr 16, 2024 21:52
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Inzombiac posted:Anyone have suggestions for deck railings? Rent a truck from the lumber store to haul big pieces home. 2x2s for the verticals, beveled 45° at each end. 2x6 for the rail. Easy peasy.
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Apr 16, 2024 22:37
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I don't know if we have an appliance thread but my dryer has stopped being hot. I replaced the heating element, which looked like this.  but no joy. I'm going to do the thermostat and thermal fuse tomorrow, but is there anything else?
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Apr 16, 2024 22:47
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You can check all of those components with a multimeter. Check the thermal fuse and thermostats for continuity. Also check the connector that clipped onto that toasty spade terminal. It may need cleaning or replacement. Edit: vvvvvvvvv clogs can cause components to burn out too or even a fire. It happened to my sister's house. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Apr 16, 2024 |
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Apr 16, 2024 22:59
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Check your exhaust and make sure it's clear ALL the way through. It could be collecting lint and getting plugged up at the very end. All of which is a fire hazard. Just went through this. The previous owner had lint blasting in to the wall like a psychopath.
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Apr 16, 2024 23:00
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Deviant posted:I don't know if we have an appliance thread but my dryer has stopped being hot. Don't fire the parts canon at it. Post the make/model and we can help you figure out what to test and how.
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Apr 16, 2024 23:06
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I should have been clear, I've also already cleared the exhaust and the machine. I get full airflow, it just isn't hot. The drum spins as well and all the control panel features seem fine. The model is dv45h7000ew/a2. And the parts cannon has only cost me $30 so far (for an element, a thermostat, and a fuse), so I'm not super upset. I'll re-open it tomorrow and verify the fuse and thermostat and connector.
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Apr 16, 2024 23:18
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Deviant posted:I should have been clear, I've also already cleared the exhaust and the machine. I get full airflow, it just isn't hot. The drum spins as well and all the control panel features seem fine. From a troubleshooting perspective, swaping parts that aren't bad adds complexity, as many new parts aren't good out of the box or you may have installed them wrong or they may not be the right part or you may have disturbed something else in doing so or....or...or..... In add increasing complexity to the situation when you then come to some one for help or hire someone to sort it out. Cost is a far lesser consideration. I'm confused as to what you replaced there. The model number comes back to an electric dryer, which I would tell you to check the continuity on the heater element first for. But the picture you posted looks like something with a cap tube so I'm gonna guess it's a style of flame sensor or something I'm not familiar with from a gas dryer.
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Apr 16, 2024 23:58
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Motronic posted:From a troubleshooting perspective, swaping parts that aren't bad adds complexity, as many new parts aren't good out of the box or you may have installed them wrong or they may not be the right part or you may have disturbed something else in doing so or....or...or..... In add increasing complexity to the situation when you then come to some one for help or hire someone to sort it out. Cost is a far lesser consideration. I replaced the heater element, and I swear I said it was a dryer? It is electric, though. It looks like this: https://www.amazon.com/Heating-DV45H7000EW-DV363EWBEUF-DV393ETPAWR-DV328AEG/dp/B07D7VK8RB Anyway, as far as I can tell, the heat setup is only controlled by 3 pieces: thermostat, fuse, and heating element.
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Apr 17, 2024 00:12
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Deviant posted:I replaced the heater element, and I swear I said it was a dryer? It is electric, though. It looks like this: Some dryers have multiple thermostats. Kenmores have 3.
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Apr 17, 2024 00:34
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