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Danhenge posted:Possums rule, they eat ticks and are immune to rabies. North America’s only native marsupial is a fine and noble creature
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Apr 19, 2024 15:29
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I thought they were brought to california as pets and escaped
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Apr 19, 2024 16:11
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A MIRACLE posted:I thought they were brought to california as pets and escaped They are not native to the west coast and are considered an invasive species in Oregon and maybe California. They originally ranged through central America and the Southeast US but were introduced to the west coast by people.
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Apr 19, 2024 16:21
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I'm looking to build a set of shelves in my basement to hold the ubiquitous black and yellow tote bins everyone has (they were on sale for $8 at Costco last week, so GF and I bought several to consolidate everything in a random bin into one of those so they all match.) My friend is trying to insist one of the types where the totes "hang" from their lips is the better form-factor, but...I fail to see how/why? I guess you can save a little bit of lumber not having to make the horizontal shelves, but I have a bunch of 2x4 scraps/off cuts already to help, and even though lumber has gone up, 2x4 still aren't going to break the bank. Neither will some thin plywood or MDF, but at the same time, if I CAN spend less money but still make myself a decent shelf, I'm not opposed. But I'm just worried hanging by the lips will warp them, or possibly break them if they're too heavy? I guess if there's someone out here who built them years ago and has an update saying, "Five years later, bins not bent!" then I guess that's good enough for me.
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Apr 19, 2024 23:14
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DrBouvenstein posted:I'm looking to build a set of shelves in my basement to hold the ubiquitous black and yellow tote bins everyone has (they were on sale for $8 at Costco last week, so GF and I bought several to consolidate everything in a random bin into one of those so they all match.) I have a wall of tote storage in part of my basement, hanging them by the lips seems miserable to actually access and move the totes out to be used. E: I have 2 x 4 framing and 3/8 plywood floors they sit on and moving the heavy totes off of that is already hard enough since some of them get close to 100 pounds or more.
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Apr 19, 2024 23:45
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DrBouvenstein posted:I'm looking to build a set of shelves in my basement to hold the ubiquitous black and yellow tote bins everyone has (they were on sale for $8 at Costco last week, so GF and I bought several to consolidate everything in a random bin into one of those so they all match.) It probably just means less plywood for the shelf, but if you lay that down you could put other stuff on them besides totes if you want, as well. I guess it's been a trend because a 3d printing youtuber I watch sometimes has a video about making some as well. I haven't watched the whole thing but it may be worth a look: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcp4qZNQmGQ Looks like he has a cost breakdown at the end, too.
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Apr 19, 2024 23:52
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Ahh seeing them slide out on the side lips is not as bad as what i was picturing. You will lose any ability to store anything but totes but if that works for your plans its probably fine either way.
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Apr 20, 2024 00:29
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I don't like that solution much just because it gives you a single-use piece of furniture/rack. Even if it works well for those bins, what if you have stuff you want to store that doesn't fit in one of the bins? What if you crack a few bins and then find out that the style has changed or gone out of production and new bins don't quite fit? It's only slightly more to just make some shelves that hold the bins in virtually the same way, but will also hold anything else and be versatile into the future as well. We have a dozen or so of the same bins and just use standard metal shelving to hold them.
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Apr 20, 2024 00:55
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If you do the hanging bins and they go out of style or break, you have a future project putting small pieces of plywood on the bin rails.
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Apr 20, 2024 01:07
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Skipping the hanging part means you can make each bay wider, storing 2-3 totes beside each other if you use 2x4s. You’ll have the vertical rail support pieces in the way if you try to retrofit to standard shelving later.
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Apr 20, 2024 19:03
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yippee cahier posted:Skipping the hanging part means you can make each bay wider, storing 2-3 totes beside each other if you use 2x4s. You’ll have the vertical rail support pieces in the way if you try to retrofit to standard shelving later. I wonder if the hanging aspect making it strictly limited to those totes is on purpose. Keeps you from just cramming any random poo poo onto the shelf over time.
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Apr 20, 2024 20:58
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From what I remember the hanging part is a legacy aspect of when folks would make ceiling storage for them. I don’t know why it continued on, since that’s the only legitimate use case for rail style hangers.
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Apr 20, 2024 21:47
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I have a very specific question I can't figure out through Google. When purchasing hardware cloth, if I'm buying 19g vinyl coated, does the gauge include the vinyl, ie, is the actual metal thinner than uncoated 19g would be?
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Apr 22, 2024 00:09
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That wouldn't include the coating. It would be a lot harder to make the vinyl a consistent thickness in order to be able to count it.
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Apr 22, 2024 00:17
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Rexxed posted:It probably just means less plywood for the shelf, but if you lay that down you could put other stuff on them besides totes if you want, as well. Dr. Lunchables posted:From what I remember the hanging part is a legacy aspect of when folks would make ceiling storage for them. I don’t know why it continued on, since that’s the only legitimate use case for rail style hangers. Ok, that tracks. I know my friend watches all sort of "maker" videos and stuff on 3D printing (though he has no 3D printer...) so maybe he saw that exact one. I guess he's just getting hung up (  ) on the "trendy" aspect of it. I will admit that hanging them from the ceiling if you have limited floor space can make a bit of sense, but that's not the case for me. I have plenty of floor space in my basement, and like everyone here has said, a regular shelf can still be a shelf for other things. I don't think the cost reductions outweigh the benefit of just having a plain old shelf.
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Apr 22, 2024 14:27
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Was replacing the dishwasher today and discovered that a portion of the washer’s drain hose had been crushed and leaking for god knows how long. I can see some moisture running from where the dishwasher was and leading under the LVP’s water barrier. Water has not gotten between the barrier and the planks themselves. I had the floor installed a few months back and there was no sign of mold or anything when they leveled the subfloor. Also, if there was, it almost certainly got mortared over with their leveling compound. So all that said… what would be the best next move? Should I try and prop some of the planks up a bit and let whatever got under the barrier air dry a bit? Is it a non-issue now that the leaky appliance is out of the picture? Do I need to consider removing a whole section of floor and surveying for potential damage or drying out completely? Just trying to figure out if water under the plastic is even an issue or if I can just breathe a sigh of relief and move on.
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Apr 23, 2024 01:11
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Reading, it seems the leak was more of a drip than a gushing. Puddles of water--higher chance of issues. Gravity pulls it down, so if you can go below the floor and look up, you'll be able to see any effects. But it's reading like a slow drip with wicking taking place, spreading the moisture. Dry it out--I'd blowing air across for a day or so, fix the leak, and pit everything back. Jyst check again in a few days/weeks to make sure it's fixed.
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Apr 23, 2024 01:32
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HycoCam posted:Reading, it seems the leak was more of a drip than a gushing. Puddles of water--higher chance of issues. Gravity pulls it down, so if you can go below the floor and look up, you'll be able to see any effects. Honestly I’m unsure of the severity of the leak. I think it was a pretty steady leak when there was water in there, it’s just that it was getting trapped in On the old tile, maybe? It’s honestly pretty hard to tell. The portion that looks wet under the LVP might have just been from when I slid the washer out. Gin_Rummy fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Apr 23, 2024 |
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Apr 23, 2024 01:39
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Odd question for installing a closet rod bracket: The old closet rod broke off the brackets recently. In addition to buying better rod sockets (last ones were plastic, going metal) and a metal rod instead of wood, I'd also like to put a bracket at the midpoint. But the PO put a shelf at the top of the closet by running a 1x4 board across the width of the closet in addition to a couple pieces at the ends to hold it up. So if I put a one of those closet rod brackets in the middle, the top part of it is on that board, and the bottom is now 1/2" from the wall. What would be the best way to even it out that ISN'T just nailing/screwing another 1/2" board in place at the height of the brackets' bottom screw hole? I just feel like that wouldn't look as nice; especially since the top board is painted to match the closet paint, not stained, and I have no more of that paint...so they wouldn't match. I thought either a 1/2" thick nylon spacer, or just a bunch of washers stacked up together. Or just say gently caress it and do the board option? Edit: V V V Yeah, I thought about that, too. I don't like the idea of "unpainted wood" from the inside of the cut being exposed, either...BUT most will be hidden by the bracket and, also...it's a closet. I shouldn't get too hung up on minor aesthetics. V V V DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Apr 23, 2024 |
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Apr 23, 2024 20:34
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I would cut a notch in the support board wide enough to accommodate the bracket so it's flush with the wall at the top.
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Apr 23, 2024 20:43
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there are adjustable rod brackets like this or similar this one looks like it gives you maybe a half to three quarters of an inch of adjustment but there's tons of variations on this design I googled "adjustable closet rod bracket" to find this and others
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Apr 24, 2024 02:01
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Is there a stud behind it? If not, I don't think it'll do much. Drywall anchors really wouldn't cut it for a bunch of clothes IMO
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Apr 24, 2024 02:57
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Is paint stripping time sensitive? Like, is it going to be materially easier to strip paint that's 2 or 3 weeks old vs. 2 or 3 months? Chemically or manually, though more the former as there can't be risk of damaging the surface. My gut says yes since it hasn't fully cured but I don't know if it actually matters? I'm sure you can guess a significant amount of stupid lies behind this question.
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Apr 24, 2024 03:49
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How long is unopened latex house paint good for, on average? I bought a small can last year for a project that I could not find time for, and I imagine it's probably still fine, just needs to be well mixed. I ask because I had gallons of paint that were unopened after 8-9 years and they were beyond saving by that point.
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Apr 24, 2024 04:09
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Stripping off of what surface? And what kind of paint?
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Apr 24, 2024 04:09
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devicenull posted:Is there a stud behind it? If not, I don't think it'll do much. Drywall anchors really wouldn't cut it for a bunch of clothes IMO There's a stud, yeah, I already checked. It's not perfectly centered in the closet, but pretty close. Leperflesh posted:there are adjustable rod brackets like this or similar Oh neat, I didn't know those existed. I'll see if my local Lowes or HD have any in stock..ink now I can get them online, but I'd like to get it done by this weekend cause our clothes we.kept in there are now strewn about on the guest bed. So if they don't have them, I'll just notch the top board.
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Apr 24, 2024 12:01
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Motronic posted:Stripping off of what surface? And what kind of paint? Wainscoting. Unsure of exact paint type, willing to bet it's the cheapest latex paint they could get.
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Apr 24, 2024 13:44
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Jenkl posted:Wainscoting. So no, it's not really time sensitive - but you probably need to be clear about the problem and what you're looking for. Is this just something that was badly painted and is having adherance issues to the point that simply painting over it won't work? If so, something like citristrip should work. Perhaps a heat gun to clean up the leftovers. I'm assuming this is only getting stripped enough to repaint, not to stain (that's never gonna happen - it would need to be replaced).
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Apr 24, 2024 14:08
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Jenkl posted:Is paint stripping time sensitive? Most paints take like 30 days to fully cure. If you're stripping before it's fully cured it will be a bit easier, but after that it doesn't matter if its a month old or 3 years old. Exception is very old paint, which often harder to strip IME not because it has been a long time since it was applied but because it is often lead based oil paint which is generally more difficult to strip than modern latex paints.
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Apr 24, 2024 14:49
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CzarChasm posted:How long is unopened latex house paint good for, on average? I bought a small can last year for a project that I could not find time for, and I imagine it's probably still fine, just needs to be well mixed. I ask because I had gallons of paint that were unopened after 8-9 years and they were beyond saving by that point. It depends on how well you reseal the cans. At best, you'll get a decade to 15 years and that's really pushing it. Keep the old cans though. They make great samples for matching.
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Apr 24, 2024 17:07
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Motronic posted:So no, it's not really time sensitive - but you probably need to be clear about the problem and what you're looking for. Is this just something that was badly painted and is having adherance issues to the point that simply painting over it won't work? If so, something like citristrip should work. Perhaps a heat gun to clean up the leftovers. I'm assuming this is only getting stripped enough to repaint, not to stain (that's never gonna happen - it would need to be replaced). I don't have many details. The story is someone I know is buying a house in a dumb market. They offered X no inspection, dude refused to budge and had to have his number Y. They waited a week, then decided to go back with Y + inspection. In that week, the dude decided the problem was the (from pics I assume stained or veneered) wainscoting not being whitewashed was the problem. Along with decided to spend more than the difference in X and Y to renovate the kitchen and bath, and then relist, to try and get his number. I'm trying to figure out how worth it is to try and press for a more immediate solution. gently caress if it absolutely can't be re-stained. I guess that makes sense, properly sanding it down would be... Ooph. Still, don't think it's a dealbreaker given the prices were talking. Dumb markets are dumb.
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Apr 24, 2024 18:25
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There is little chance it would be cost or time effective to strip it wll enough to re-stain it. I'm not saying it absolutely can't be done, just that it's simply not worth it.
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Apr 24, 2024 18:27
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if it's like a genuine craftsman house with gorgeous old wood and some rear end in a top hat just slapped paint on it, then maybe it's worth many thousands to restore the original wood, maybe if it's a 1990s house with wooden baseboards, yeah just peel them out and put in new ones if you want the natural wood look
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Apr 24, 2024 18:46
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I asked. They believe it's original and stained, from 1910. loving Gary.
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Apr 24, 2024 20:01
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I attended a wood window repair workshop last weekend and they had a box made out of insulated sheathing that we would slot the full sashes into, then run a clothing steamer into a hole on the side for like 20 minutes. then we pulled the sashes and the paint would come off like 8 layers at a time. the other method was trying not to light them on fire with a heat gun
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Apr 24, 2024 20:06
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Yeah the issue isn't so much getting the paint off - there's a variety of chemical strippers etc - but the fact the paint is likely to stain or discolor the wood underneath, which is harder to deal with, and then compounded by the shape in moulding that makes it harder to like just lightly sand with an orbital sander.
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Apr 24, 2024 20:14
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They should lower the offer and state the reason.
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Apr 24, 2024 20:20
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Jenkl posted:I asked. They believe it's original and stained, from 1910. Oh poo poo well.....yeah, we're back to the part where I said it wasn't impossible. But this is now a restoration-level job with a restoration sized budget. E: I suppose there's an outside chance that the original stain sealed it well enough that the wood won't be discolored, but stripping paint to the level required will NOT be fun and is likely to involve things like strip pads and literally brushing chemically softened paint out of millwork with toothbrushes. Motronic fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Apr 24, 2024 |
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Apr 24, 2024 20:33
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I was putting a new battery in my mower when I noticed it has four connecting wires. Two black and two red. Should I just bolt both wires to each matching terminal?
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Apr 24, 2024 21:59
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Beef Eater posted:I was putting a new battery in my mower when I noticed it has four connecting wires. Two black and two red. Should I just bolt both wires to each matching terminal? How were they before? What kind of mower? In general, the answer is "yes" but there's not enough information to confidently tell you that.
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Apr 24, 2024 22:14
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