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Not sure the best place to ask, so I thought I would start here. I'm looking for recommendations on a quality general use respirator. I want something I can use for sanding, generally dusty environments and the occasional interaction with concrete dust and wood finish/paint. I wear glasses so kinda wary of anything with a full face mask. I don't mind paying a decent bit for something good that will last, all suggestions welcome.
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Nov 8, 2021 17:28
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 06:35 |
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Wonderful, thanks for the advice all, it is very much appreciated.
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Nov 8, 2021 20:19
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I am having my front entry door replaced soon and I am doing some prep work on the area. Above the door is a medallion type thing that looks like this: I will be repainting this and it needs some repair first. The perimeter where it meets the brick, as well as the transition from vertical to horizontal surface is caulked, but the caulk is broken and in some places pulling back from the brick.    I want to repair this before I repaint it, so what's my best course of action? My instinct is to cut out what i can with a utility knife and then re-caulk, sand and paint. Is there a better method? How anal do i have to be about getting every bit of old caulk out? Also is there a specific exterior caulk I should be using? Thanks.
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Sep 9, 2022 21:07
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CzarChasm posted:Trying to plan ahead for warmer, drier weather and I want to repaint my porch. I have a belt sander to try and make my life easier. Assuming all the wood is good, what grits should I probably work with? I don't think I need to start with something as abrasive as an 80, but I want to do it correctly. Also, it it ok to run the sander over the screw heads (assuming they are at or below surface level)? What is the surface now that you are trying to remove? Its a near certainty you should not start with a sander at all, but rather some form of paint/finish stripper.
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Feb 17, 2023 17:07
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Inzombiac posted:I am livid right now. It's a long shot, but go read, actually read, all of your homeowners insurance policy. Some companies include sublimits for repair/replace degraded piping. 2 years ago I had a similar discovery and ended up doing cured in place pipe relining for everything under my slab. My homeowners had a 10k sublimit with 500 deductible. We submitted the claim, they spent 5 minutes looking at a picture and cut me a 10k check. It is worth the 30 minutes of reading to see. But actually read, don't just ask them. If you read and your understanding from the wording is there is coverage, submit the claim and fight for it
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Nov 30, 2023 12:54
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devicenull posted:Roofer is suggesting redoing the addition with membrane (? he was talking about the pitch being inappropriate for shingles) in order to fix the valley, and going up a few rows of shingles to ensure they line up properly. I'm of the opinion this is the correct way of fixing it, and trying to patch just where it's leaking now is a mistake. I have a similar thing, a section of roof without much pitch that was shingles, but when we did the roof had it replaced with EPDM membrane. I agree this is the correct way to fix it. It's worked well for us and all the research I did at the time confirmed it as appropriate.
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Jan 4, 2024 13:21
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ante posted:How do I attach my ~40 lb projector screen to my cement ceiling? It is also the floor of the unit above. More details would help. Are you using a down rod projector mount? attaching a shelf tot he ceiling? are there particular aesthetic constraints you are working with? I have a projector mounted to my ceiling, and my choice was to essentially build a decent looking box, with openings for ventilation and the lens and mount that to my ceiling. If I was doing that in your case I would probably use sleeve anchors or tapcons to attach a wood panel to the ceiling and then work from there. ante posted:Edit:, also, if in theory, I had a hole that a sleeve anchor pulled out of, was the hole too large? Would some sort of epoxy help? Possibly too large or possible the sleeve did not deform enough. If you need to use the same opening then yes, there is epoxy that you could use to very permanently epoxy the anchor in place, or fill the hole, let it cure and re drill a smaller one.
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Jan 10, 2024 14:26
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ante posted:Specifically the projector screen. I think I have a convenient pipe to clamp on for the projector itself. Sorry, yeah just missed the word screen there for some reason. That said, I think the answer is basically similar. I personally do not like trying to do real accurate spot stuff into concrete, so I would probably look to attach a substrate to the ceiling that I could have an easier tome working with. It sounds like you tried to use a sleeve and it slipped out an now you have a hole likely in place you need to use, so a possible solution would be cut a strip of 3/4 ply an appropriate length, affix the screen to that, and then use the larger surface area of the wood to give yourself multiple attachment points into the concrete. edit: Assuming the screen is going in front of a wall, then another possible path is to hang it off the wall. if the housing is not built to be attached to a vertical surface, you could build a small right angle projection, that attaches the wall studs but provides a suitable ridge you could hang the screen from. emocrat fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Jan 10, 2024 20:44
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ante posted:Okay but like, what attachment point? Specific tools or materials? All good. So, I was focusing on the projector / screen part but the question is really, How do I work with concrete. I'm not an expert, and possibly others will chime in with better advice but I have done some of this and I will give you my thoughts. There are basically 2 paths you take when you need to attached something (anything) to cured concrete. You can use an adhesive (liquid nails, loctite, etc) or you can use a mechanical fastener (screws, anchors, nails). Or you can use both. Any form of mechanical fastener will require drilling an appropriate width and depth hole. Knowing the thickness of the ceiling would help with your concern about your upstairs neighbor, but given the low weight you need to support you should be able to use a smaller fastener and be pretty confident about it. The simplest way would probably be to use a high strength construction adhesive that is designed to bond wood and concrete, certainly there are products that market themselves for this purpose and 40lbs is a pretty small load, especially for something that you would reasonably expect will never get hauled on hard or have anyone do a pullup from. Personally, I don't really trust adhesives like this, not from any experience just personal bias, and I always use a mechanical fastener if possible. The success of this method would be affected by the concrete surface. is it smooth and polished? Rough? Sealed? Painted? For mechanical fasteners into cured concrete you have 3 basic options: masonry nails, masonry screws, and anchors. Masonry nails are not going to be appropriate for your application, so you are looking at screws or anchors. Both require pre drilling a hole, generally using a hammer drill. Masonry screws are pretty simple, once you have the hole you just screw them in and they are designed to grab into the concrete. They are used a lot and as far as I have seen work well, although I personally have had mixed success. They can be finicky to drive all the way in and if they don't grab just right you may have to start a new pilot hole. The biggest name brand is Tapcon and you buy them in a huge variety of lengths and thicknesses at any hardware/big box store. use as the package instructs, you can also go to youtube to find videos explaining the use and installation. Anchors it seems like you tried and had issues with, but are a very appropriate connection method. You can use heavy duty wedge anchors that can hold huge weight, or given your specific application you can probably get away with using deformable plastic insert anchors. They work by inserting a sleaved screw into the pre drilled hole, and then as they are tightened/screwed into the sleeve deforms, and compresses into the hole wedging the assembly in place. If you your anchor fell out then either the hole was too large, or wedge wasn't tightened enough to fully deform the sleave. LowesDepot will have dozens of different sizes and forms of these anchors, and you can select based on wanting something that doesn't require a deep hole as well what amount weight the anchor is rated for. Given that your screen is only 40lbs, and you can use multiple anchors, you should probably be ok using pretty light weight rated ones. As above youtube can be an excellent source for actually watching someone install this kind of thing and seeing how they do it.
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Jan 11, 2024 15:02
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ante posted:This is a really helpful overview, thank you. It does seem not to have deformed correctly, the wider head should have expanded the sleeve out and compressed the crumple zone area forming a block. I would agree with trying a smaller diameter hole and really knocking it in tightly. Using Epoxy can work fine, just keep in mind that if you get epoxy in there and it cures, your are committed. You cannot clean it out or move it at all. If it isn't in the right place your recourse is going to be cutting the head off the bolt and starting over elsewhere. Also, since your working in the ceiling you will be fighting gravity, id suggest something like painters tape to help it in place and prevent drips while it cures. Epoxy may be the solution for you, but it is much more permanent and harder to cover up if you ever change your mind.
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Jan 11, 2024 23:16
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Opopanax posted:I think I'm going to give up and get a new oven, I'm looking at a Kitchenaid with induction cooktop, any caveats there? I dont have experience with that exact model, but I have an induction cooktop (which I love) and have used several others. The one linked is a design I do not like. It uses buttons/touch points to control the stove top rather than knobs. That may seem minor but in my experience it is actually a real drawback. The one I have which has been my favorite of all models I have used uses standard knobs like you would find on a gas burner. It is easier and faster to adjust temp and more intuitive. I have also found that the touch style inputs have been finicky and fail to register input. It's exacerbated by the fact that the stove does not generally stay clean as you use it. Again, seems like a small thing but I would strongly encourage you to look at alternatives that have different controls.
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Feb 24, 2024 14:00
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I think your approaching this wrong. You can do it all with no math, just layout. On the ground set a 48 long board. Find the center and place another board perpendicular, mark your desired height. Lay a third board diagonally across so that the outside edge interests the end of your 48 and that same edge intersects the center line on the vertical. Mark the lines (vertical line matching your center line, horizontal line matching the top of your 48). Cut the lines using a standard circular saw, that's your template. Make a second and match them to verify. Edit: with regards to your last point, since we are talking about 2x4 and the length of the cut is very short and it is rough framing, id suggest just using a circular saw and free handing the cut against a pencil line. emocrat fucked around with this message at 12:18 on Apr 8, 2024 |
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Apr 8, 2024 12:15
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 06:35 |
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I am on year 7 of my Ego mower. runs great. I have 2 batteries and had to replace one battery after 4 years. So currently i use a 3 and a 7 year 5 amp hour battery. no issues whatsoever.
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May 9, 2024 16:35
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