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Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Trying to repair this lighter and I can't tell if it's missing a piece or I just don't get it. When you click down the lever it makes a small arc from that wire, but the spot where you fill the butane doesn't seem to have any kind of mechanism to release it. The nozzle doesn't move at all, and even if it did the lever doesn't touch anything over there.
Anyone familiar with anything like it, or know a thread I can try


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Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


PainterofCrap posted:

My guess would be that there is a forked lever missing. The forked end would pass on either side of the butane tube at that recess just above the top of the tank & extend back, possibly bent at an angle, and terminate under the cam ahead of the hinge on the trigger so that when you push down, it levers up the butane tube to release gas just before the trigger sets off the piezo to spark the top of the tube.

There’s a boss at the right spot to have held a pin as the fulcrum point for the lever. Appears that the pin has snapped off at some point. The lever would then fall free into the voids. It either fell out when you (or a prior owner) opened it, or fell out through the trigger slot.

That’s what I assumed, but that nozzle doesn’t budge at all if I push or pull on it. Maybe I’ll shoot a little wd-40 on it and see if that does anything

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Aha, ok got it moving. Should be easy enough to fabricate a new lever and see if that works, thanks

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Need some build advice. Long story short I have a door and a door frame that I need to be free standing, but will still be used by people so I need it to be sturdy without having too many tripping hazards.
I got a big board to mount it on, but I don't think that's going to be stable enough. What's the most basic, out of the way thing I can do here to make this work

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Yeah I figured that's what I'll need, just worried about someone walking into it. Guess I can't plan for every idiot customer though

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


We run an escape room and it's for a pop up location, I'm just going to rig up curtains for "walls" but wanted to have a real door to pop open when they solve it. I'm going to double check the layout when I'm in there though, now that I'm thinking about it I may be able to shift things over a bit and mount it to a wall instead

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Tonight on MacGyver




Wound up just shuffling everything over to the wall, added several pieces in between to give it all something to grab and then latched it to the pipes (which are both decorative with no water or anything in them, and also very firmly attached). It's not pretty but by God it's sturdy. Thanks for the advice

Opopanax fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Oct 4, 2022

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Having trouble wrapping my head around a wiring issue here. These are for my escape rooms. The way the door works is you have a device plugged in which puts power through to the magnet



And then a steel plate on the door for it to hold to. When the device is trigged (I have a few different ones that are activated in different ways but that side if it is working fine) it kills the power and the door opens. We also have these switches you're supposed to be able to wire in to manually kill the power so I can open the door whenever, but I'm unclear on how to install them. All the ones I have are just two wire ones with a button on them, but they're set to always open and then close when the button is pressed, basically like a doorbell. I feel like I need the opposite but these should be the right ones. If it were a motorcycle I'd set it up like a kill switch and just connect one side as a pass through wire and the other side to ground, but I don't know how to do that on something like this.



Any ideas on how to make this work? For now I just wired in a lightswitch but I'd prefer something smaller and quieter

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


H110Hawk posted:

There should be a terminal on your door controller for it. It's hooked to a relay so you close the circuit and the relay opens releasing the magnet. Can you post a make/model of these parts? This is a "normally open" button.

All this stuff is second hand so it may have been hacked together, but I just have two wires coming out of the control unit going to the magnet, you're saying there's probably a seperate set of wires I should have coming from that to the button?

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Rexxed posted:

I think this should be easy to tell, but could the door magnet be a couple of permanent magnets and the power is sent to an electromagnet to cancel them temporarily? That seems more likely if the pushbutton is normally open, and it should be easy to check just by seeing if it's magnetic with no power. If it works like that, then you could run an emergency button in parallel with the secret button, so that when either or both are active it sends power.

I have never worked with a door magnet lock so I'm just guessing.

Nope, if I pull the plug the door opens

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


That one's all tucked away but they all look like this



Standard little power pack going into these gray boxes, then in the boxes will be a circuit board with the various functions, with a red/black out for the magnet and then whatever wires out for the activation mechanism

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


This particular one is a sound module, not all of them have that button (on that one it let's you record a message) . Essentially they're all triggers to unlock the doors, and the "whatever wires" go to whatever mechanism does that. In the one I'm actually using, it has 4 sets of 2 wires going out to sensors, you put magnets over the sensors and it opens the door. They all have different functions but work more or less the same way

Opopanax fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Oct 20, 2022

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


PremiumSupport posted:

I think you've got the right switch, you just need either a circuit diagram or some explanation of what the wires do so you know how to connect it to the controller. Baring any official manual or other documentation, the only way to figure it out will be to try things and see what happens.

My first thought would be to see what the controller does if you wire the switch in place of a sensor. There's a very good chance that the sensor is operating in a "sense thing, close circuit" mode.

Kind of, when the sensor gets triggered it opens the circuit, but you can't really cut in with the way they're run. These pieces are all second hand and made in China so what documentation I have is pretty sparse, I've had to reverse engineer pretty much everything

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Wait what if I just pass one each of the red/black through that button, then when I press it they short out. It's super low voltage running through there so it's not going to fry anything, does that sound right or terrible idea?

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


H110Hawk posted:

No one here can help you without posting a complete setup with everything labeled. Lay it all out on a big table and draw us a diagram of your connections. Otherwise, you're on your own. These quarter pictures of the problem and ignoring questions are not going to get you the answer you desire.

I'm not trying to be evasive or anything, it's all just very piecemeal and slapped together. I'll probably just peel back some wallpaper on one of the existing ones and see what the hell they did

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


H110Hawk posted:

So are your posts.

Well, they're all DIY

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!




We have this case but don't know the combo. It's currently opened, is there some way to figure it out or reset it while it's unlocked? I pulled the liner back to get a look at the other side but it looks like the mechanism is all sealed up

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Ok cool. I'm busy for the next couple days but you guys have given me some fun stuff to study here

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Motronic posted:


While that might be one of the reasons, the most important reason is that both of them are smart enough to know not to pick up the liability for a half rear end repair that's not going to last long. It needs to be repaired properly.

Yeah and on that note, absolutely do not touch it yourself unless you want to turn something that isn't your problem into something that potentially costs you thousands when the liability gets shunted on to you.

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Pretty much, the liability is anything they can possibly stick you with since you're an unlicensed person doing unauthorized work up there. If you absolutely must do it yourself you could at least get it in writing from the condo board or whoever saying you can, but you're a lot better off not touching it at all.
You could maybe try talking to your insurance people, that might go somewhere

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Do we have a legal thread we can link this guy for when he fixes it and the hoa sues him for tens of thousands of dollars

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


I have an impact because I'm a mechanic and it's an essential tool for us, but I also cheat and use it for work around the house all the time

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


It IS a top loader, right?

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


alnilam posted:

Oh yeah I was assuming and certainly hope so, I don't even know how that would work in a front loader

I mean I assumed too, but you never know

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


The glass part freely spins? I'd imagine there's a groove in there you should be able to undo

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


A bunch of my doors look like this

What's my best for closing those gaps? I bought some of that stick on weather stripping but it gradually came off, is there something better?

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Need some help with my Xmas lights. I have just some basic led string lights and the second quarter are out (it comes back around the midway point). It's a single string so no second hookup to deal with, I took out the first dead bulb and swapped it with a working one, didn't solve anything. There are two fuses at the initial plug, but both of them test out ok (I grabbed a pack and I'm going to replace them anyways, but they seem good). Not sure how else to test it, I don't have continuity on the bulb itself but I didn't in the working on either so I guess that's normal.



I also set these up about 2 years ago and I just leave them and turn them off the rest of the year, so the wires shouldnt have gotten damaged at all as they don't move, and no visible squirrel chew or anything like that

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Ugh that sounds like it's going to be a pain in the rear end. Is it likely to be in a particular spot or am I just going to have to climb up there and feel around?

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


actionjackson posted:

If i want to be able to control one of my bedroom outlets with a switch, and the two switches in the room are for the ceiling fixture and the closet fixture, does this mean I'd need a third switch installed somewhere? there are five outlets in the room, all on one breaker.

You can replace one of the switches with a duplex switch, but if you're using it for a lamp or something probably easier to get a remote or WiFi thing for the outlet

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Speaking of condensation, all my window sills get soaked when it’s cold outside, what can I do about that? No leaks anywhere or anything, it all just drips down from the windows

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Motronic posted:

So you have radiators or baseboard hot water heat? Yeah, that's how it works after things are actually sealed up. You need multiple dehumidifiers.

Nope central heating, but I guess dehumidifiers are the obvious solution anyways

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


It could just be a magic feather but I find those ultrasonic things do well to keep mice away

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


I’d also suggest spraying a little wd-40 around the plate first because it probably hasn’t budged since the 70s

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


wesleywillis posted:

I'd spring for something more expensive than that.
I see some that say oil and water resistant, but yeah, oil and water aren't really "solvents".

There are ones specifically for plumbing and stuff so they definitely exist, but you’ll probably be paying more than is worth

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

I'm in the process of selling my house. It is currently empty and the temperature outside is supposed to start dipping below freezing for a few hours at night. The house is built on top of an un-insulated crawl space . Should I be worried about the pipes freezing? Day time temps should be above freezing except for a day or two where it might snow. Normally, I wouldn't think about it while living there but being vacant with no water being used I'm a little concerned but I'm not sure if I should be. I know an easy solution is to leave a tap running but if I don't need to waste the water I would prefer not to.

I would go get a $15 timer thermostat and save myself a lot of trouble, personally

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Maybe I have morning brain but as long as the heat is on I don't see what would be any different than any other year? Unless the house was just built in the summer it should be fine.
You could shut the main off, in a pinch

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Just install an airbag on the railing so if you do go over with it, you're protected

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Real hurthling! posted:

Thanks! I kinda think it already looks bad too tho so maybe a different, less blinding bad is an upgrade.

You could get some of that rectangular conduit stuff and run some wires up higher that way. Not exactly up to code and it'll still look kind of bad, but maybe less bad

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!



:nono: bad idea all around, do this one manually

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Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Did you try calling the moving company? Might be worth a shot

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