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I had a similar gas fireplace problem. The wall switch itself went bad. The low current leads to poor contact cleaning in the switch and they can start making intermittent contact relatively quickly. You can verify this by jumping the terminals directly on the fireplace, or pulling the switch and jumping it out to test.
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Dec 5, 2020 05:32
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tangy yet delightful posted:If the wall switch is bad is there a recommended replacement brand? I'll see about checking this if/when it happens again. I just used a generic hardware store snap switch in the same form factor as the old one.
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Dec 6, 2020 05:33
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I would get some backer rod and use a polyurethane caulking. I love that stuff.
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Dec 24, 2020 18:40
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glynnenstein posted:I redid my furnace like this so I can plug into a generator safely and have heat, at least. Short length of wire comes out of the box and plugs into a switched outlet normally. My dad bought one of these things and had me wire it in for him: https://ezgeneratorswitch.com/manual-generator-switch/ Now he just runs a proper (male-female) extension cord inside and flips the switch when he loses power to keep the house warm. I thought it was pretty slick.
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Feb 17, 2021 23:43
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Blowjob Overtime posted:I was going to ask what the HCH stance is on these. Wire nuts are pretty straightforward, but it is nice to skip the step of twisting the wires together. Personal stance as an electrical engineer that has worked in multiple test labs and have witnessed how they perform as part of hookups in 1000 amp overload tests: I would use Wago 221 or the older grey version (can't remember the number) without hesitation, assuming wires are straight and you meet the size ratings printed on the connector. I have them in about half the junction boxes in my house. The 5-wide versions are especially great for grounds in larger boxes with many devices. I will use the push-on types like Wago 773 for single fixture hookups. I wouldn't personally use them in boxes that could carry full load current to other circuit parts. The lack of mechanical retention other than the built-in grabber spring makes me twitchy. I know they're rated and should be fine but it's a personal preference. Again, just my personal preference based on experience.
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Apr 26, 2021 18:38
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mutata posted:Sounds like lovely LED bulbs. Or you have some kind of super vision. lovely led bulbs or a lovely dimmer.
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Jul 9, 2021 20:42
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Fozzy The Bear posted:The screw is suppose to cut into the hole a bit? Yes. That's how those fit.
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Sep 20, 2021 05:17
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Flashing question. I have a bulkhead/bilco door and it was obviously installed with a poo poo flashing job. I am replacing the sheathing and anything underneath, but what is the right way to flash this so it doesn't happen again? The thing that has me unsure is that the previous installer cut out the sheathing around the area where the door lays against the house. This means the lip sits under the osb, as you can see in the picture. I don't understand how to keep the water from getting in the sides when it runs off the top though, since everything is recessed. Any ideas?
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Sep 21, 2021 03:44
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devicenull posted:Start flashing on the bottom left, and work your way up. The flashing you install on the top should be on top of the flashing you've installed on the sides. This is basically the same thing you'd do to install flashing on the top of a window/door, maybe that gives you a useful reference? Yeah I get that, my mental block was around the metal flange of the door top being behind the sheathing. I'd (maybe incorrectly) expect a window or door to sit on or flush with the sheathing. I ended up doing basically what the previous poster suggested and framed it out a little then flashed like normal.
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Sep 22, 2021 22:33
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melon cat posted:All of the plastic lightswitch fixtures in my basement are splitting and cracking like this: Long shot, but are you cleaning them with any kind of cleaner/disinfecting agent other than dish soap and water? Common household cleaners can cause significant stress cracking in the plastics used in switches. What brand are they?
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Mar 30, 2022 13:20
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melon cat posted:I did clean them with all purpose cleaner a few times. But I also did the same with the rest of the light switches in the main and upper floors but only the basement switches have so far been affected. Brand is Lutron (what can I say- I splurge on light switch brands) I can't speak to the humidity, I'm not a materials guy and I'm only familiar with the cleaner problem and resulting failures.
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Mar 30, 2022 21:55
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bobua posted:
It's a p trap, just unscrew the nuts at each end and pull it off. Also, did someone install it backwards? That can lead to a gunk accumulation and smells. There's good pictures here https://www.buellinspections.com/p-traps-installing-them-properly/
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Apr 6, 2022 18:47
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actionjackson posted:ok i'm going to eat crow here and admit that a regular motion opened it (some resistance but after holding down a bit it came open), I did apply more of the lubricant (PB blaster) as well so maybe that helped Unless they've started to bastardize the name, PB Blaster isn't a lubricant. It's a penetrating oil for freeing stuck fasteners. It's not meant for lubrication of moving parts.
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May 30, 2022 00:20
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If you have space behind, can you glue or screw a few pieces of 1x1 material on the inside of the hole to use as the new mounting? Basically put some material on the backside to give the screws more to grab? It looks like you could manage that from the outside without actually getting full access to the back of the hole.
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Jun 15, 2022 15:27
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Arsenic Lupin posted:We were donating a washer/dryer yesterday, and the Humane Society guy who came to pick it up accidentally bashed it into the porch wall. No big, we'll glue the pieces back. However, while they're still exposed, I snapped a picture of the break. Not to disregard what the other guy said, but I urge caution here. My parent's house has siding that looks identical, and it is an asbestos product. They also have some newer matching tiles they've used for repair that do not contain asbestos. How old is your house? It might be worth a swab test if your house was built in the danger years. That said, if they are asbestos they're about the least dangerous embodiment of it.
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Aug 6, 2022 03:06
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floWenoL posted:
For #1, google "oversized wallplate" and buy one of those then don't think about it again. Lesson learned for next time. For the depth, I think the issue is that you don't have the orange low voltage ring seated flush to the wall. I bet the protrusion from the top right of the low voltage ring is hitting the back of that blue electrical box I can see in the first picture. I would trim the finger on the orange ring so that it can sit flush into the wall, and go from there. Take a picture without the wallplate on and the screws tightened down from a few angles if you want a better diagnosis. If the orange ring is flush, it will sit down inside the wallplate and the wallplate will end up flush. Don't try to fill this gap with anything, you have an installation problem you need to solve.
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Aug 21, 2022 00:13
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I'm doing preparation to add a mini split for heating and cooling to my attached garage in southern NH. The garage has an attic with a pulldown ladder that the previous owners used for storage and is approximately half insulated. It looks like whenever a batt was left over from another part of the house, they just threw it in there so I have a mishmash of R values and limited coverage. At some point in the past the garage attic also had a very large mouse infestation, and there's huge amounts of droppings and other mouse stuff. I'm going to bag and remove the existing insulation, then airseal penetrations and go back in with insulation, but I had two questions about what to go back with: 1) I have a large (~950 sq ft) area to cover, so cost/sq adds up quickly. Blown in looks cheapest to get up to a reasonable R value, but would make any future repairs, wiring changes, etc. much more challenging. I can go fiberglass batt, which is sort of the middle of the road, or I can go mineral wool at highest cost but easiest installation. Are there any factors I'm missing to help me make the decision? I can swing the cost on whichever, but I don't want to be throwing away money unneccesarily. 1) If I go fiberglass, should I be using faced or unfaced batts? Half the general internet says faced, the other half says the painted ceiling is enough of a vapor barrier. Any thoughts on either of these points?
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Jan 6, 2023 19:36
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actionjackson posted:
Just one dimmer. However, if you want to dim from the second location instead of just flipping a switch on and off, check the literature for whatever dimmer you pick. It will specify a matching "remote dinner" or similarly named accessory.
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Nov 27, 2023 22:36
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Hey I'm not going to get too point by point here but Cosmik Debris please be a little careful. You seem to have a reasonable understanding of common transformer driven low voltage thermostat systems, and that's fine, but I'm 99% sure that's not what is in play here. I realize I'm just a guy on the internet but I have designed controls for residential HVAC systems. There are control systems used for low cost heaters that don't use 24V control. From what I can tell, this built-in thermostat is just switching line voltage using a triac (TR1), the device that Tuyop unsoldered that's still in the plastic housing. The device you've identified as a "combination transformer and relay" is actually a high limit temp safety device. When the copper wire passes enough heat into the metal disc, it will snap an internal switch open and then remake the contact when it cools. Also, based on the spec sheets for the heater unit, most of the thermostats for this unit are line voltage, unless you purchase the accessory kit that doesn't appear to be installed on this unit. Assuming power is getting to the board, odds are something in the stepdown power supply for the micro or the micro itself (under the big glob) have failed. But hard telling from here and without a bunch of troubleshooting. So if you want to figure out how to potentially replace this with something else, start looking at line voltage thermostats. Basically, Tuyop please don't burn your basil down.
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Jan 11, 2024 19:35
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Not Wolverine posted:
I would just replace the elbow with a T with the extra leg pointed down. The reducer you want is actually called a pvc bushing, like https://pvcpipesupplies.com/1-x-1-4-pvc-schedule-40-reducer-bushing-spigot-x-fpt-438-128.html. The other option is to just throw a quarter turn valve on there you can open in the winter. You can use any pvc cement, the blue stuff is faster setting which is why irrigation and pool guys use it a lot. If you use clear make sure you respect the drying time before use.
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Apr 16, 2024 20:30
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