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regulargonzalez posted:Installed a ceiling fan with a light today. It uses LED bulbs that it came with and has three brightness settings. On max bright there's an obvious flicker, most noticeable out of the corner of your eye. Reminds me of 60 hz CRT flicker. My mom doesn't see it but it's intolerable for me. Medium and low brightness are flicker-free. Maybe. LED bulbs have a power supply inside since they run on DC power. It's possible the ones you got don't have a very good one and a better one would smooth out the rectified voltage better.
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Dec 12, 2020 12:21
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In NJ I've got a valve to shut off the outside faucet about 18 inches inside the wall (accessible near the ceiling in the basement). For the winter we turn that off and open the outside faucet. Then it's always dripping and I have to come back in and turn the shutoff harder, then go outside and look for drips, then come inside and close it harder, then repeat until it's actually closed. I've never seen a hose bib until posts about them showed up in the last two days. I'm sure house infrastructure is different in Texas where there's less freezing weather but it seems strange for there not to be an indoor shut off if there's ever freezing weather, which evidently there is sometimes.
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Feb 16, 2021 22:53
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PHIZ KALIFA posted:I posted in the resin thread but it wasn't very active, I'm looking to talk to dicemakers for an upcoming video project. If you know anyone please help me connect with them? I don't know any personally but I have watched some of Rybonator's youtube videos and he's got a link to his dice goblin discord in the description box. There may be some dice making types there: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRDte2j54F0
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Feb 25, 2021 02:25
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Steakandchips posted:My fridge has some paint chipped off the corner, and the exposed metal is rusting. You'll want a rust preventing primer and enamel paint. There's a few 2 in 1s that will do it, it's often just called appliance paint. Here's some UK choices, I'd probably check some reviews and match the color: https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=appliance+paint
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Mar 13, 2021 17:55
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CHEF!!! posted:I took my doors off of my Queens, NYC apartment's bedroom's closet because the shitheads building the closet made it so thin shirts and pants don't hang up. I had to readjust the rod so they don't tilt up at an angle against the wall. I'm getting sick of shirts and pants sticking out 2-3 inches from the closet so I was wondering if anyone can recommend something to not make it look so.... poor and lovely. I'd think anything attached to the closet to put doors back on might be too permanent for an apartment. Maybe a free standing partition? There's a lot of styles. I hid a network rack behind one in an office and they don't seem to mind but your taste may vary compared to a code enforcement and zoning dude. https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=partition
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Mar 24, 2021 09:33
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mobby_6kl posted:Yeah it's that, mainly intended for cars but anything else that would need cleaning. It's from a detailing product company so it came with this generic thread and not a vendor specific connector. I found some sort of adapter (that doesn't fit my washer) with a matching threaded brass insert, worst case I could pop it out. If you can figure out the thread type, Fusion 360 can import 3d models of parts from McMaster-Carr. I've made a few threaded prints by grabbing a piece of threaded rod model.
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Apr 1, 2021 00:35
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obi_ant posted:What are some high quality screwdriver sets for Philips and slotted (maybe some other ones)? I picked up a Wera Kraftform recently. Their stuff is a little pricey but the laser tips are good at grabbing fasteners. https://smile.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Screwdriver-Lasertip-6-Pieces/dp/B0001NQQCM/ Amazon's got a four piece Vessel Ball Grip set for about the same price. Not sure if it's what you were looking for, though: https://smile.amazon.com/VESSEL-No-2204CS-Ball-Screwdriver-4pcs/dp/B07QK2V9X3/ VelociBacon posted:Just want to piggyback onto this question to ask what the absolute best screwdriver set would be if money was no object. I think that's a hard question to answer definitively since there's a lot of different uses that different screwdrivers are for. I like the Wera for general stuff, but if you're doing high voltage there are sets for that (made by lots of brands). I've got four or five sets of precision screwdrivers and prying tools for working on electronics and cell phones and tablets. Ifixit has some good kits for that. I've also got some stubby handle screwdrivers for hard to reach areas and even a super slim sideways screwdriver I had to use to get the screw out of a curtain track that was less than half an inch from its neighbor when I didn't want to remove them from the wall. So for general use I'm happy with Wera but there's a lot of higher end brands that are good. If you want one set to do everything you might need something more expansive or a few sets for specific tasks. If money is really no object I'm sure Snap-On has kits to sell you.
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Apr 12, 2021 01:57
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melon cat posted:I recently got a Panasonic "Whisper Thin" bath fan. Expected a standard 4-inch ducting but got this: According to this manual you squeeze a 4" duct to fit (pg 8): http://pdf.lowes.com/installationguides/885170317888_install.pdf
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May 1, 2021 22:41
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IT BURNS posted:Can anyone tell me what kind of cabinet hinges these are, or possibly find a link? Trying to do some low-budget hardware renos. Looks a lot like: https://www.knobs4less.com/Amerock-Cabinet-Hinges-Self-Closing/amebp7550g10.html https://www.knobs4less.com/Amerock-Cabinet-Hinges-Self-Closing/amebp7566g10.html They have different measurements and your picture looks more like the 1/2" but it'll be easier for you to measure and check.
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May 1, 2021 23:42
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Xenix posted:I'd just caulk it with something like sikaflex. I don't think rodents will chew at it. If they do, you could pack the hole with steel wool. I've had better luck with exclusion products that are usually copper based but are like steel wool in texture. I think it holds up better to moisture.
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May 13, 2021 02:20
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I'd like to gently remind everyone that Ring will share all of your footage with the police and have even used it in their advertising without notifying customers: https://www.businessinsider.com/police-keep-amazon-ring-doorbell-videos-forever-2019-11 https://mashable.com/article/ring-halloween-surveillance/ Besides the general advice that it's a bad service, where you mount it shouldn't matter. If you get the battery powered cameras they can pretty much go anywhere that there's a wifi signal. The only concern I'd have about the mounting location is damage to the door and if you own it then you can make that decision. Also, if you have a storm door that will go outside of it I'd also check that the glass on that isn't reflective to infrared like a lot of window glass is, since at night it'll just bounce off the glass and blind the camera.
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May 26, 2021 23:11
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There's a lot of non marring wrenches and tools on amazon but I didn't see the exact one from the picture. Non marring does seem to be the keywords for plastic jaws and lug nut removers with plastic shrouds.
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Jun 11, 2021 19:45
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actionjackson posted:hey remember "that's your ceiling" Wow, I think at that point I'd just make my own if I really liked the fixture. You can do a lot with a metal nibbler and tin snips and a drill.
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Jun 17, 2021 00:45
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:I just googled those and they look expensive. Would they work a lot better than my portable a/c would? My portable a/c was able to cool the upstairs of my townhouse off very easily, but it didn't do poo poo in the garage the other day, although I didn't realize I had the fan speed set low. I'll try again tomorrow. The portables aren't great for a couple of reasons, so probably: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-mBeYC2KGc
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Jun 19, 2021 01:16
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erosion posted:I've actually always wanted some kind of capacitor bank to deal with this exact situation but I have no idea if that's even a possibility or how much it would cost. Caps don't work on AC like they do on DC so most folks who need power protection get an Uninterruptible Power Supply for their PC and equipment so they can do a safe shutdown if the power goes out, or rely on it to boost voltage if there's a brown out.
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Jul 17, 2021 10:01
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Once I got the new UPS installed, I was a lot less scared of breaking the old one. And yeah, you're right, the batteries would absolutely be replaceable. It was just complicated enough to scare me off, given the risks involved (of losing access to the primary tool I need to have to perform my job, right before a huge work-related event). I have like 10 (but I do have a lot of equipment and have been buying them since '03). One on each of the three PCs on my desk(s), one for each 3d printer (usually the old smaller units), one for the router/modem/switch, one for each of my big VM servers, one for the home entertainment stuff. We have a lot of power outages here due to trees and storms but you should consider what else you might want to keep on for a little while if there's power problems.
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Jul 20, 2021 21:45
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The tap water in my bathroom has suddenly picked up a rubber/chlorine aftertaste. It's almost certainly from bits of O-ring in the pipes from when my shower broke -- supplemental evidence being little bits of black crud I found in the sink that smear if I scrub them. The water tastes kinda nasty, but is it actually unhealthy to drink? Any recommended action to take here beyond continuing to run water and hoping to eventually flush it all out? You could run the water for a long time and hope that it clears up, but I'd consider a filter. I've got hard water here from the well so while I cook and wash from the tap, I run most of the water I drink through a filter since there's a lot of iron and other minerals. In the kitchen the fridge door dispenser has an in-line filter cartridge and elsewhere I use a brita pitcher or a faucet mounted brita filter. I'm not in love with the brand, they're just "fine" as far as filters go, but I wouldn't go cheaper and don't feel like more expensive it worthwhile to me. I was using Pur with the sink mount for a couple of years but in 2020 they seem to have split their filters into three different quality lines and none are readily available on amazon so I just switched to a brita one. Project Farm did a video about filters recently that looked at most of the major brands: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ja0ioX6GSz0
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Sep 22, 2021 00:56
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Upgrade posted:I need to remove a fixed shelf in a built in book case. I own no tools. I am thinking, buy a pull saw, cut as close as I can on either side of the shelf, then rubber mallet to knock it loose? Take a picture of the joint and post it, it could be glued in or there could even be some tack nails diagonally in there or some other kind of fastener. Maybe rub a magnet around to see if it grabs on anything metal so you know before you start.
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Oct 7, 2021 22:28
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Peachfart posted:So, I was going to drill up from my crawlspace to run ethernet through my house. I have a giant crawlspace, so that isn't an issue, but is there an easy way or a tool or something to tell me exactly where to drill up? I want to drill directly up from the crawlspace into a wall and turn part of a coat closet into the place where I locate my networking gear. Definitely drill down, and if you're putting wall plates in to mount your network jacks then you can pick the spots, like Kaiser Schnitzel said. If it's hard to see the floor behind the drywall due to framing there's long flexible drill bits they make for that kind of thing: https://smile.amazon.com/Installer-Drill-Auger-Style-16inch/dp/B08MLJ2LZV/ for example, but there's lots available in different lengths. I've seen an electrician use a super long one to get an outlet put in like 6 feet up in a kitchen for a cabinet mounted microwave.
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Nov 15, 2021 04:46
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Bone Crimes posted:Well, I got a moisture tester, and while some of the drywall is still dry, in some places I'm getting the max moisture (35% or greater) reading on the tester. I guess this means I need to get some remediation? :/ I definitely don't see enough fans blasting everything in your pictures. Maybe they're out of frame. You want a couple of good airflow fans running so the air is moving past the damp walls and baseboards. I see one behind the shop vac maybe blowing out? I'd have a couple in the room passing the air along the walls towards the exit. Inexpensive box fans should do, or even some smaller ones you can keep running. I have a couple of mid sized vornados I run for a week or more after any flooding and keep an eye on the hygrometers I have back there. With those and a dehumidifier the moisture levels will come down but it can be slow. The wood and walls may have soaked some up but if you get the air moving by them it'll dry and with a little luck it won't wreck them. I suspect with the short amount of contact they had it will be fine if they don't look all bloated up already. It tends to be standing water and/or high water that really soaks in and destroys the drywall and wood.
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Dec 3, 2021 23:21
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You could always take out the disposal if you don't use it. We don't have one here with our septic tank (but had one when living in the city). I've got neighbors who do use a disposal with septic but I've never really researched if it's a good idea or not.
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Dec 13, 2021 05:25
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FamDav posted:I'm trying to find a replacement screw for the connection between the hinge on the cabinet door to the hinge mounted on the cabinet. the diameter is a little above 1/8 in, the length is 3/16, and there appear to be 5 threads. I've tried searching for "cabinet screws" but those are all for screws to fasten the hinge to the cabinet. what incantation do I need to find this screw? Yeah I'd say either take it to your local small hardware store that lets you buy screws by the screw (and has an old dude who will know what you need by looking at it) or spend some time on McMaster-Carr's site as Beef of Ages mentioned. It's probably a phillips pan head of some kind, you usually need to buy 100, and there's shipping but they're very fast: https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/rounded-head-screws/phillips-rounded-head-screws/ They also have details on each one. Like this is pretty close but without comparing the actual thing it's hard to say for sure, but just going down the list of pan head screws and clicking details on each one that's 3/16 long got me to the point where there's around 5 threads. Might need to keep going, plus the finish looks different: https://www.mcmaster.com/91772A105/ Another option is somewhere like home depot that sells cabinet hinges probably has whole hinge sets you could get that would have the right hardware (color and all) but you'd need to find the right one that matches your current stuff: https://www.homedepot.com/b/Hardware-Cabinet-Hardware-Cabinet-Hinges/N-5yc1vZc29a
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Dec 23, 2021 15:12
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kreeningsons posted:What kind of weatherstripping should I get for the front door to my apartment to seal it from the outside air in the common area? This is for coronavirus concerns when my anti-mask neighbors inevitably bring it home, and to prevent cooking smells from penetrating my unit. The gap that you can see daylight through is about 2mm, but it's uneven all around the door. The best way to do it would be something like aluminum door gasket carrier that gets nailed or screwed into place and a gasket added to it. Since this is a rental with chunky paint I'd probably just go for something easier/cheaper/less permanent like some commonly available adhesive stuff. You'll just need to clean the surface you're sticking it to with something that dries quickly and degreases like rubbing alcohol. There's tons of stuff like this on amazon that squishes down and would probably be good for your use case if you put some of it on the part that faces you when the door is open, so the door pushes into it when it's closed. This is just an example, you can find a ton of different ones. I'd just get white so it doesn't stand out: https://smile.amazon.com/Keeping-Stripping-Adhesive-Soundproofing-Weatherstrip/dp/B077LJT1F8/ Something like that should work for the side(s) and top if there's room. On the bottom you usually install a sweep kind of thing which can get more invasive since it has to flex and usually gets screwed onto the door, but there's a lot of different kinds and you didn't mention that part specifically. They do make some adhesive ones but it's got a lot more adhesive on it so your landlord might not like it but they're on amazon, too. You could also go with one of those cloth things filled with some foam and sand or whatever that are used to keep drafts out, just slide it into place against the bottom when the door is closed. The goal is really to stop air and not make an impenetrable fortress. If that's not enough look at soundproof door gaskets since it's a deep rabbit hole to search through. The main thing is that they tend to block air movement. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Dec 27, 2021 |
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Dec 27, 2021 17:44
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kreeningsons posted:Thanks, this is in stock at Home Depot so I'll get some today and see how it works out. Luckily there is already a sweep on the bottom of the door. That's going to depend on how much space there is. Putting it on B is more traditional, but will also pull at the adhesive as you close it. If you put it on A (if there's room when the door is closed), then it will push against the adhesive and be less likely to come off. There are other kinds like neoprene that have a little bit more give than the D shaped stuff that might compress better if you were to put them on the A side and block the gap. Something like this but do some measuring since there's multiple sizes: https://smile.amazon.com/fowong-White-Foam-Tape-Adhesive/dp/B083XD44YR/ On the front door here we have an aluminum channel that some D style stuff slots into, but then it got a little beat up after a few years and I put some neoprene stuff on top. It's not perfect but it helps seal against air movement which steals the precious AC in summer and heat in winter.
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Dec 27, 2021 18:15
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Suburban Dad posted:Replaced the pump, and nothing changed. Looked into it a bit further and here's what it does...You can hit the power button and the buttons light up/change depending on what cycle you choose. Close the door and it latches and the lights go off (so I assume the latch is ok). Then nothing else happens. Not sure if it's the control board now but that's about $200 and it might fix it again, or might not. Ugh. At least I can return the part and it's really simple to work on so far. Take a look under it at the drip tray. When I had some problems with mine a mouse had chewed on the foam float under there and caused it to always be pushed up. The dishwasher thought the tray had water all of the time and wouldn't run. It may be a challenge to find it but that's a possibility. Also, if you can disassemble and look at the control board sometimes there's just obvious burn marks on some component, like a relay or something.
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Jan 13, 2022 07:04
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Stick it in the freezer overnight to shrink the metal a little.
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Feb 14, 2022 20:27
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kreeningsons posted:wait would that actually do anything? Both the threaded rod and the nut are brass so I didn’t think it would get me anywhere Yeah, but sometimes it's not enough if the metal is galled or whatever, but that and penetrating oil are both good solutions if you have a little time. It's probably worth getting a little socket set, though. They're not that expensive and good to have on hand. Brass doesn't gall that easily so it's likely that getting a solid grip, being sure not to round it over, and using one of the helpful tips will get it going.
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Feb 15, 2022 11:15
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Wowporn posted:Dumb question is there an easy way to tell if I hit a nail plate other than “drill stop going”? My drill is pretty lovely (like it audibly sounds like my current project has brought it closer to death) and I know it takes some force to get it into these cedar 2x4’s I’ve been drilling but I’m hitting resistance going into a stud and I’m less sure about pushing harder there. I'd probably see if a strong magnet sticks to the wall where you're drilling. It doesn't guarantee what metallic thing it's sticking to but it might help differentiate between metal and not metal.
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Mar 22, 2022 04:40
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From 3d printing ABS and having lots of warping and layer separation I've fixed up a few things with a 3d printing pen and some length of ABS filament. I've also smoothed it together with some acetone (available as acetone or nail polish remover). I think we've about beaten poverty goat's small ABS crack repair to death at this point, though.
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Aug 1, 2022 22:17
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:humor me, please: my dad wants to install a fence and a few of the posts would run through concrete slab. Ok, no biggie, we'll just rent a concrete saw and cut a section for us to dig the holes/run the digger. no, no ... he wants to drill 2" holes w coring bit to fit aluminum poles that we'll jam through and ??? Maybe secure w epoxy It's fairly common to put up posts by digging a hole and putting concrete in it and either sinking a post into it or attaching it to the top with some concrete anchors and a metal plate of some kind. I imagine the concrete breaking would depend on what kind it is and how it's set up. If it's like a thin wall of concrete above ground then it would definitely be something to worry about, but if it's in the ground or in a slab where it's supported all around then I doubt it would break very easily. We put up a basketball pole next to the driveway about 30 years ago because that's what you did in suburbia in the 90s. We dug down a few feet and mixed concrete and poured it in with the bottom of the post in it. The post itself has had all the paint flake off since then but it's still standing.
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Aug 30, 2022 20:48
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Mouse manufacturers use adhesive that's similar to double sided tape since it's thin. If you have a popular gaming mouse you can probably buy new feet/skids for it in either PTFE to replace what you had, or glass if you want super smooth but more expensive. There's a lot of options on amazon or ebay. If you don't want to buy one then yeah, I'd try the double sided tape or something similar. Don't use super glue since it would be a challenge to remove later. Elmer's may work, although I don't know how well it would bond to ptfe or plastic.
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Sep 13, 2022 13:14
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CzarChasm posted:My wife requested a way to elevate the shower head in our main bathroom, so I purchased and installed this S curve pipe Sort of feels like you could use something made for another purpose on it. A lot of swivel tube clamps I'm seeing online with two ends are for some kind of drum or stage truss setups like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Global-Truss-Swivel-Aluminum-Finish/dp/B008BMI3B2/ Something like this could maybe work similarly if you do some measuring: https://smile.amazon.com/Demeras-Swivel-Purpose-25mmx31-7mm-Fishing/dp/B09WKZS8FS/ The issues I could see is making sure it's stainless and they might not be the right inner diameter. That first one mentions being 1 1/3" ID in the comments so I have no idea if it'd fit, but I could see clamping that to the showerhead and clamping the other clamp to that clamp if you don't mind it being a little swingy or the top being further out from the wall. If you do, you could get a little piece of pipe, bend it, and clamp them both to it, accepting that it'd be an inch lower than before or something. Maybe if it's slightly too large you could pad it with some neoprene or silicone sheet so it grips the existing pipe. I'd probably 3d print something that zipties to the top pipe and has a spot to clamp the shelves to on the bottom, but it'd take some measuring and time in CAD to get it right.
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Sep 23, 2022 07:36
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Admiral Joeslop posted:
Looks a bit like a termite but it's hard to tell due to the size. Definitely capture some in a ziplock or other container that seals. Have you seen any others?
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Sep 30, 2022 23:10
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Opopanax posted:All this stuff is second hand so it may have been hacked together, but I just have two wires coming out of the control unit going to the magnet, you're saying there's probably a seperate set of wires I should have coming from that to the button? I think this should be easy to tell, but could the door magnet be a couple of permanent magnets and the power is sent to an electromagnet to cancel them temporarily? That seems more likely if the pushbutton is normally open, and it should be easy to check just by seeing if it's magnetic with no power. If it works like that, then you could run an emergency button in parallel with the secret button, so that when either or both are active it sends power. I have never worked with a door magnet lock so I'm just guessing.
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Oct 20, 2022 00:11
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Opopanax posted:Nope, if I pull the plug the door opens Yeah I guess that makes sense, since in a power outage you want people to be able to get out of doors. They should fail safely. Is there a relay in there somewhere? Maybe the button toggles it off breaking the magnet circuit.
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Oct 20, 2022 00:31
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Opopanax posted:
Some of them set a code while open, by setting the new code you want and pushing in towards the dials instead of out. Otherwise, I'd trip the lock with a paperclip and then try one of these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUZFf610NAg&t=90s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyzgC_P2OwI&t=85s
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Nov 1, 2022 05:12
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Opopanax posted:It could just be a magic feather but I find those ultrasonic things do well to keep mice away Yeah, those ultrasonics don't usually do anything. There's been a lot of testing and while mice may not love the sound it never really deters them from going for food. If you want a spray foam there's specific kinds for rodent prevention, don't just get great stuff. Also if you have gaps and don't want to use foam, you want to stuff exclusion product in them which is like steel wool but usually copper based so that it won't rust away as easily. Metal is generally stuff that the mice won't chew through because it bothers them to gnaw at it. You can also just use bits of solid metal to cover openings but jamming exclusion products in so they can't pull them out is usually what's done since it's easier to target specific spots and less costly. Indoors you can use some peppermint oil based products to keep mice away from specific areas, they don't like the strong smell. It's very localized, though and needs to be reapplied. I've used actual peppermint essential oil as well as Rodent Sherriff to spray around. It seems to help but has its limitation. As has been said, the best ways to get rid of them is to seal entrances they use as well as you can and trap or poison the ones still inside. Poison is a broad term as there's commonly available stuff now that shouldn't kill everything else that might eat a dead mouse as long as it's large enough. Also the downsides to poison are that they might die in your walls somewhere that you can't get at them and then there'll be a stink for a week or more.
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Dec 5, 2022 10:41
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Arsenic Lupin posted:The house is super dusty, but to clean it I need to vacuum, and I'm already severely sniffly (as in filling up a kitchen trash bag with Kleenex every one-to-two days.) Every time I vacuum I get a major allergy flareup. I have dust allergies too, but I find for cleaning dusty stuff a N95 (3M Aura is what I've been using) is fine. That's just me, though. I don't follow it but I've heard that the CSPAM covid thread has the best recommendations for respirators you can wear comfortably that are well sourced. In general for dust you'll want a P100 filter to go with it which is like an N95 but better.
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Jan 19, 2023 01:57
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Immolat1on posted:Is there a reason a cutter would be preferable to a laser? Prices seem similar and I understand a laser would be better at cutting wood? Not opposed to having that instead, just curious what the pros and cons are. Decent laser cutters are expensive and require a set up to exhaust the smoke outside and cool them. The cheap units you find online are often a good way to blind yourself/your family/your pets. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9hIXT8DMUU
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Feb 7, 2023 18:17
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One thing to bear in mind is that if your camera has IR lights and an IR filter for daytime, putting something that's not IR transparent in front of it will mess up the IR night vision. When I stuck a camera to the inside of a window at night I'd just get a reflection since glass mostly reflects IR wavelengths. This is mostly in reference to the idea of a one way mirror kind of cover for the opening. There are a lot of bird house disguises for Ring/Wyze/Blink cameras online. I don't like some of those companies due to the spying but they might be useful for another camera if you check the sizes. Here's one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Ring-Stick-Up-Cam-Birdhouse/dp/B092DYNR29 Lots of them on etsy but some are just bird houses with cameras for spying on birds so you have to check which kind you're looking at: https://www.etsy.com/market/camera_birdhouse
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Mar 16, 2023 23:02
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