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Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.



in my unprofessional opinion, that isn't good.

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Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


TacoHavoc posted:

I would get some backer rod and use a polyurethane caulking. I love that stuff.

yes, who among us does not love the caulk

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Jenkl posted:

Once you go polyurethane, you don't go back again.

my ex wanted to be polyurethane, but I wasn't feeling it.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Your drain at the back of the freezer has frozen. The water drips into the low freezer and then leaks out if it doesn't freeze. On my GE I had to pull the drawer and drain cover and thaw it with hot water

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


teen witch posted:

wow the more I move in the more questions I have! So we have beads bees in a spot underneath our deck. They’re lil bumblebees, so I really don’t want to kill them, but they’re kind of annoying. Ideas…?

call a bee guy to come get the bees

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Omne posted:

What's the best way to fix interior inside-corner cracks and outside-corner nicks? Just some DAP paintable caulk for the inside? Everything I find for the outside is full-on corner bead repairs, which I don't need. Spackle?

patching compound?

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


i hate them, they're never bright enough for me.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


erosion posted:

my gardens do not matter to me, my lawn does not matter to me. I sense the neighbors judging me for not pulling weeds and maintaining the outside.

so, should I just salt everything?

I had a lovely conversation with my neighbor shortly after i moved in, and i could see them twist their face when i said "yeah, i don't rearlly understand the american obsession with the idea of a lawn".

if he says one goddamn word i'll asphalt the entire thing out of spite.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


corgski posted:

When faced with that problem we found a cheap lawn guy to run a mower over everything once a month and the neighbors can just deal with the clover that’s taking over as the grass dies off without PO’s aggressive fertilization and pesticide regime.

also this. i get it mowed once a week, and i dont care what it is, it gets mowed once a week. i spray the ones in the back and pull em after they die once a month or so.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


kid sinister posted:

Yes, there's dimmable bulbs. They play nicer with dimmers. Some of the switches have adjustments behind the faceplate for which types of bulbs you use.

Also, who puts a dimmer in a bathroom? Is it to set the mood while you're dropping a deuce?

you ever turn a bathroom light on at 4am? or hung over?

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


wood glue, putty knife, clamps

gently scrape or sand the leaked glue after

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


The Dave posted:

I have a radon remediation system that is gurgling like a mother fucker because the ground is super saturated and the water is caught in the piping.

This is a regular occurrence, and I’m sure the real long term solution is introducing a sump pump somewhere, but in the mean time is there any easy way to introduce some type of tap or access to manually suck out the water that would still be air tight when closed?

I'm imagining something like a cleanout tee on an a/c condensate line

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


kreeningsons posted:

This is for coronavirus concerns when my anti-mask neighbors inevitably bring it home

i would simply tell your neighbors to stop breathing directly into the crack in your door

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


motronic is right

if you can't shut off your sump pump for a day without moving under the sea there's another problem

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


actionjackson posted:

ah ok, thank you

any thoughts on how I can remove this cat5e from the wall plate? I've tried everything.



cut and reterminate?

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


actionjackson posted:

apparently that top part is a "keystone" which snaps in, seems bizarre that it can't be removed in the same manner

https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/93862/removing-a-keystone-jack-from-the-wall-plate

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Is there a good brush head for a multi-tool like above? Scrubbiing motions are difficult for me because of my wrists and because i'm lazy and hate doing it.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Rakeris posted:

I bought a set of the below things and like them, makes cleaning tiles I don't clean enough very easy.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G7XG6BV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I actually have these but they dont seem to get into the grout like i'd like. Maybe i need a better cleaner.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Rakeris posted:

I use a mix of dawn dish soap and vinegar, spray it on, give it a bit and hit it with the brushes and it generally cleans it up pretty easy. Our water isn't very hard however.

I'll try that. I just use whatever scrubbing bubbles knockoff has been purchased this week usually.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Leperflesh posted:

I've not used Concrobium for shower grout, but it is a legit mold remediation product rather than just an on-contact killer like bleach, and the manufacturer has instructions specifically for showers and baths:

https://www.concrobium.com/how-to-fight-mold/where-is-your-mold/bathroom/

Yeah, my grout isnt that bad, it's just got some mild discolored patches in a brown. You can barely see it unless the light hits it right. Just figured I could do a better job.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Fozzy The Bear posted:

Running wire to attach a string of lights in my backyard. What type of cable should I get?

Stainless Steel Wire Cable 1x19 Rigid Stranded Cable
Stainless Steel Wire Cable 7x7 Flexible Stranded Cable
Stainless Steel Wire Cable 7x19 Semi-Rigid Cable

I was thinking rigid, but then does that mean I can't bend it around a corner?


The yellow line is going to be string lights around a square garden fence.

I would think a rigid cable could be bent using tools and would stay bent.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


i left a pack of edibles open once and for like a week i had stoned ants coming looking for another hit

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


edit: double post

Deviant fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Jun 29, 2022

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


re wall mounting: i also like triple grip anchors if you absolutely can't use a stud.

Unrelated:

Is there a way to get my garage window a/c unit to stop tripping the GFCI breaker it's plugged into? I'm told window units just tend to do that. It also has its own GFCI power cable.

The outlet is GFCI because the circut runs to a lamp outdoors as well, which I'm of the understanding is needed for code.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


PainterofCrap posted:

Try a GFI breaker. If that doesn't work, just a standard breaker, NEMA be damned. My steel-post walk light is on a standard breaker. It doesn't kill me because it's properly grounded and the common is actually hooked up properly. ^^^


The chain is as follows (to best of my knowledge)

Standard circuit breaker <-> GFCI outlet in garage (with a/c unit plugged in) <-> exterior lamp with solar cell for on/off

So I'm not entirely sure what you're telling me to do. I could swap the garage outlet for a standard one? I'm unclear on what's up to code here though.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


I guess I need to do more research because i thought GFCI and GFI were the same thing. The idea about swapping to a double is clever though.

it's more likely that i'll swap to a standard outlet and to hell with code because i'm not particularly worried about it in this situation, but i'll do some more research

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Then I guess i need to clarify. The a/c unit is popping the outlet, not the entire circuit. The walk lamp does of course go off, because it's downstream, but the breaker in my electrical panel doesn't trip.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


off to the store, then. thanks.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


if you have to make two posts about whether or not a wire is safe

it isnt

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


bobua posted:

Update on permanent christmas light install.



I rented the boom lift, almost launched myself like a human catapult by not unlocking one of the transport locks before operating.


Installed half of the led's in the wrong direction.



Christmas ruined.

oh christmas yeet, oh christmas yeet

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


kid sinister posted:

Well they do sell them at Walmart.com...

https://twitter.com/BubblegumOctopu/status/1731568478505611419/photo/1

OK, who wants to chime in and explain why these are called "suicide cords"?

Because once you plug one into the mains, you now have exposed live metal.

Imagine sticking a fork in an electrical outlet, but the outlet part is on the outside.

https://twitter.com/kobunheat/status/1336134415336964096

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


I don't know if we have an appliance thread but my dryer has stopped being hot.

I replaced the heating element, which looked like this.



but no joy. I'm going to do the thermostat and thermal fuse tomorrow, but is there anything else?

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


I should have been clear, I've also already cleared the exhaust and the machine. I get full airflow, it just isn't hot. The drum spins as well and all the control panel features seem fine.

The model is dv45h7000ew/a2.

And the parts cannon has only cost me $30 so far (for an element, a thermostat, and a fuse), so I'm not super upset.

I'll re-open it tomorrow and verify the fuse and thermostat and connector.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Motronic posted:

From a troubleshooting perspective, swaping parts that aren't bad adds complexity, as many new parts aren't good out of the box or you may have installed them wrong or they may not be the right part or you may have disturbed something else in doing so or....or...or..... In add increasing complexity to the situation when you then come to some one for help or hire someone to sort it out. Cost is a far lesser consideration.

I'm confused as to what you replaced there. The model number comes back to an electric dryer, which I would tell you to check the continuity on the heater element first for. But the picture you posted looks like something with a cap tube so I'm gonna guess it's a style of flame sensor or something I'm not familiar with from a gas dryer.

I replaced the heater element, and I swear I said it was a dryer? It is electric, though. It looks like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Heating-DV45H7000EW-DV363EWBEUF-DV393ETPAWR-DV328AEG/dp/B07D7VK8RB

Anyway, as far as I can tell, the heat setup is only controlled by 3 pieces: thermostat, fuse, and heating element.

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Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


It was the heating element *and* the fuse.

Looks like the old element shorted and blew the fuse.

Anyway the dryer is fixed and I have a spare thermostat because the parts came in a package.

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