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Krakkles
May 5, 2003

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Man, the longest hood in car history seems like it would suck. Like you would have to get a pair of those mirrors that they have in hospitals and restaurants and put them on the front of the car so you can see what's coming on your left and right in the 10 seconds before you can actually see the intersection.
Yeah, but it looks cool as gently caress. :v:

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Q_res
Oct 29, 2005

We're fucking built for this shit!

Applebees Appetizer posted:

Yeah using the word "performance" and "suspension" in the same sentence as a 1970 Ford Torino is laughable really. There's nothing performance related to a bloated body on frame car with an oxcart suspension. Old muscle cars are really cool but they handle like dog poo poo.

You would have to spend a lot of money and turn it into a restomod to get that car to actually handle well.

Actually the 70-71 Torinos were unibody. The Torino switched to body-on-frame for 72.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Huh that’s weird, wonder what the point of that was usually it’s the opposite. Probably for cost reasons of course.

Q_res
Oct 29, 2005

We're fucking built for this shit!
I think it was actually to get a quieter, smoother ride.

Q_res
Oct 29, 2005

We're fucking built for this shit!
Okay, before I derail this any further. I absolutely love the 70-71 Torino and this one looks great. But the person who told you to make a Torino GT replica got it wrong. Build a King Cobra replica.


edit:

Applebees Appetizer posted:

Haha, I think that was done for NASCAR purposes for aerodynamics on the super speedways, they had to compete with the Charger Daytonas and Superbirds at the time

Correct. The King Cobra was Fords answer to the Daytona/Superbird. The only reason it didn't happen was because NASCAR killed the Aerowars before they could get it out the door.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Q_res fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Mar 11, 2021

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Haha, I think that was done for NASCAR purposes for aerodynamics on the super speedways, they had to compete with the Charger Daytonas and Superbirds at the time

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Krakkles posted:

One of my all-time favorite cars is my uncle's '69 Grand Prix. Custom suspension, happily out-corners much smaller cars, despite having the longest hood ever on a production car - in other words, it is Not Small.

That's not a hood, that's a loving runway for an A380.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

STR posted:

That's not a hood, that's a loving runway for an A380.

Excuse me, the space shuttle would like a word :colbert:

Agrikk
Oct 17, 2003

Take care with that! We have not fully ascertained its function, and the ticking is accelerating.
I’m relieved that this Torino is unibody. As much as I am partial to older cars (first car was a ‘72 Dodge Dart Swinger) I do want to avoid the sitting in a hoppity-hop feeling while cornering as much as possible.

Re:hood sizes-

I can’t wait to take a driver’s perspective photo of the hood when I take possession of the car. The sheer acreage is a sight to see.

One time I parked it next to my sister’s Prius just so we could laugh at the dissimilarities in the ratio of hood+trunk to cabin.

Agrikk
Oct 17, 2003

Take care with that! We have not fully ascertained its function, and the ticking is accelerating.
So look what just showed up in the mail!


The exterior - clearly the most upkept part of the car











Agrikk
Oct 17, 2003

Take care with that! We have not fully ascertained its function, and the ticking is accelerating.
The motor. I think its a 302 Windsor V-8. I haven't yet looked but I don't think it's numbers-matching as I vaguely remember the eging exploding about 25 years ago. I'm pretty sure this one's a crate.






I'm not really sure what's going on with the headers here. It's got some kind of sleeve with some kind of intake thing. At least I hope it's a sleeve because it's come completely away from the upper part of the header.




Aftermarket power steering resevoir



Aftermarket power steering

Agrikk
Oct 17, 2003

Take care with that! We have not fully ascertained its function, and the ticking is accelerating.
Blown speaker. Parking brake pedal. Clutch pedal. Brake pedal with zip tie. Gas, er, stick. The little buzzer thing bolted to the dash uner the lights and wipers is the horn. While driving you have to reach under the dash to honk the horn.




The inside. A little rough.



Seat covers, steering wheel cover, shoulder belt, missing lap belt.









The missing door trim from the driver's side.





The original owner's manual. It's fifty-one years old.







"Get your sleigh ready for the holidays! El Sobrante Garage!"





My uncle was an engineer. An a fastidious note-taker. This binder goes back decades...







An unopened tin of mints fell out of the glove box. I wonder how old it is?




August 13, 2001...

Agrikk fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Nov 2, 2021

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Agrikk posted:

So look what just showed up in the mail!

That's a great mail day!

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

I don't recall you ever telling us it was a stick shift! That is loving awesome.

Those records are worth their weight in gold. That tells you the story of the car and what you do/don't need to do to it. And it's a massive help in diagnosis.

I would drive it as is and slowly fix the things that bug you without tearing the car apart. Shop for interior stuff and if you do anything mechanical, go over the brakes first. And that side strip should all be removed. You shouldn't need any harsh chemicals to get the sticky off the side of the car, just a little warmth and rolling it with your thumb.

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


God drat, that is loving cherry for its age, like the little broken and bodged bits give it more character than anything. A fuckin plus.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
:perfect:
Thread delivers.

Agrikk
Oct 17, 2003

Take care with that! We have not fully ascertained its function, and the ticking is accelerating.

LloydDobler posted:

I don't recall you ever telling us it was a stick shift! That is loving awesome.

Those records are worth their weight in gold. That tells you the story of the car and what you do/don't need to do to it. And it's a massive help in diagnosis.

I would drive it as is and slowly fix the things that bug you without tearing the car apart. Shop for interior stuff and if you do anything mechanical, go over the brakes first. And that side strip should all be removed. You shouldn't need any harsh chemicals to get the sticky off the side of the car, just a little warmth and rolling it with your thumb.

I had originally planned all these upgrades right out of the gate, but the car is so much fun to drive right now that I'm going to do just that: fix up the immediate stuff and then let the other stuff come as it may.

The current urgency is that it's a California car transplanted to the Pacific Northwest so stuff that wasn't an issue there is very much an issue here.

Four examples:
1. the heater is broken
2. the defrost is broken
3. the driver side window doesn't roll up all the way
4. the lap belts are missing

My first drive of the car left me cold, wet and blind as the windows fogged up and rain blew in.

Follow this by replacing the drum brakes with power disks because braking in this car is downright scary. This raises the question of whether or not I should do the suspension when I do the brakes.

Oh, and the rearview mirror came unglued from the windshield the first time I slammed the door so there's that. :D



Amazon is showing me a couple of cigarette-lighter-powered dashboard mounted heater/defogger things. Anyone have any experience with them? I wouldn't mind picking one of these things, as well as a aftermarket rear window defroster to get me out of the immediate scrape of fogging up windows.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

If it were me, step 1 is get it in the garage and don't drive it in bad weather. Not sure how that lines up with your plans.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
hell yeah, this thread owns. stoked to see four pedals (ish, three plus stub).

when you fix the heater you'll fix the defroster, so i would just punt on it and not drive it in the rain until then. no sense in spending extra time and money making a bodge fix you're gonna un-bodge at your next wrenching opportunity

if the brakes are that terrible, maybe they aren't working properly? all of my vehicles still have their original drums, and they work fine. not great, but it's not scary unless you drive through standing water (which you shouldnt). especially in the wet, i would expect it to be pretty easy to lock up the brakes

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Great looking car and glad someone pointed me towards this thread. As Raluek said fixing the heater will fix the defrost and it might be as simple as the slider on the hvac panel not being hooked up to the valve allowing water to flow through the heater core. Looking at the pictures I can see the coolant lines running to the firewall so unless those go through and and looped right back on themselves you should have flow to the heater core.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
Man, that's a nice looking car. Not many of them left, and that one's clearly been loved.

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
Oh goodness I just found this... I don't have advice (other than "fix what hits you as important as you drive it more" which it seems like you're starting to) but man, that's a thing of beauty.

Edit: oh wait, I got one. With all the talk about Wilwood or whatever brakes... if there's nothing wrong with the stock brakes and they still don't feel adequate, I'd be incredibly surprised if there wasn't some Ford parts bin mix and match to put disc brakes from a full size Ford car on the Torino. I'm not deep in the domestic car crowd so I can't say any of this authoritatively but I'd expect that there's reman calipers and stuff available and to my mind it's kind of a more sympathetic "survivorey" upgrade

mekilljoydammit fucked around with this message at 15:08 on Nov 3, 2021

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
Doesn’t everyone make new Mustang II type suspension/brake setups now?

My 72 LTD never inspires confidence in the braking department even with all new drums and hardware on all four corners.

Agrikk
Oct 17, 2003

Take care with that! We have not fully ascertained its function, and the ticking is accelerating.
Back in the day I drove a meek little ‘72 Dodge Dart with drums all around and yeah, not really confidence-boosting braking experience there.

Since this will be my daily driver, as it was for my uncle before me, it’ll be driven in the wet so good brakes are a must.


Re: defroster chat- the fan not working is the place to start. Although I’m not even sure if there is a fan. There are two vents in the dash that blow outside air and I remember reading about this era of torinos using driving speed air as a replacement for air conditioning.

Does this ring a bell for anyone?

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Agrikk posted:

Back in the day I drove a meek little ‘72 Dodge Dart with drums all around and yeah, not really confidence-boosting braking experience there.

Since this will be my daily driver, as it was for my uncle before me, it’ll be driven in the wet so good brakes are a must.


Re: defroster chat- the fan not working is the place to start. Although I’m not even sure if there is a fan. There are two vents in the dash that blow outside air and I remember reading about this era of torinos using driving speed air as a replacement for air conditioning.

Does this ring a bell for anyone?

If you didn't have built-in AC, your "AC" was rolling down the windows, yes. There were swamp coolers you could put in the passenger or rear window to provide a modicum of cooling, but those were more a thing in the 40s and 50s.

Agrikk
Oct 17, 2003

Take care with that! We have not fully ascertained its function, and the ticking is accelerating.
That is totally something out of Fallout.

Wikipedia says:

"All 2-door hardtop, SportsRoof and convertible models had "DirectAire" ventilation systems as a standard feature, which eliminated the need for side vent windows."

Frankly I would have preferred the wing to this thing but either way, it isn't what I was thinking about. The console has a fan selector switch, so I'm guessing that the fan is broken (like everything else in the dashboard) or a fuse is blown somewhere.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Agrikk posted:

That is totally something out of Fallout.

Wikipedia says:

"All 2-door hardtop, SportsRoof and convertible models had "DirectAire" ventilation systems as a standard feature, which eliminated the need for side vent windows."

Frankly I would have preferred the wing to this thing but either way, it isn't what I was thinking about. The console has a fan selector switch, so I'm guessing that the fan is broken (like everything else in the dashboard) or a fuse is blown somewhere.

My Dad had a '69 LTD, so I'm passingly familiar with that generation of cars. One of the problems with driving with the windows down is that it sets up an edge tone on the window frame, resulting in a deep throbbing at highway speeds that can be really annoying. Vent windows broke the airflow over the window to eliminate that.

I think the DirectAire system was a vent through the firewall (maybe fan-assisted?) that produced higher pressure in the cabin, which would push the airstream away from the window frame and also eliminate the throbbing.

ETA: Here's a photo of a 71 LTD dash. I think the "DirectAire" is just the vents at either end of the dash to direct air toward the window. I guess it was quite the innovation at the time.

Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Nov 3, 2021

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


NitroSpazzz posted:

Great looking car and glad someone pointed me towards this thread. As Raluek said fixing the heater will fix the defrost and it might be as simple as the slider on the hvac panel not being hooked up to the valve allowing water to flow through the heater core. Looking at the pictures I can see the coolant lines running to the firewall so unless those go through and and looped right back on themselves you should have flow to the heater core.

Heaters are really simple. There's a heater core, with hot water from the engine running through it, the blower, and valving to duct the heat to where you want it. Figure out all three of those, and you should have heat and defrost.

Deteriorata posted:

If you didn't have built-in AC, your "AC" was rolling down the windows, yes. There were swamp coolers you could put in the passenger or rear window to provide a modicum of cooling, but those were more a thing in the 40s and 50s.



Yes, but to answer the question, there will be a blower motor for the heater, regardless of AC or not. Those vents are just... vents.

Agrikk posted:

That is totally something out of Fallout.

Wikipedia says:

"All 2-door hardtop, SportsRoof and convertible models had "DirectAire" ventilation systems as a standard feature, which eliminated the need for side vent windows."

Frankly I would have preferred the wing to this thing but either way, it isn't what I was thinking about. The console has a fan selector switch, so I'm guessing that the fan is broken (like everything else in the dashboard) or a fuse is blown somewhere.

Very likely. The motors can seize up after a while, too.
First: get a factory service manual if you can. Haynes or other aftermarket service manual if you can't.
I don't know where the blower is on a Torino. It's out under the hood (actually sort of tucked into the fender) on my Cutlass, and under the passenger dash below/behind the glovebox on most of my newer vehicles. Find it and test for 12V with the car on and the blower on high. Then test the blower motor with some wire or clip leads directly from the battery. Troubleshoot from there to get both a working motor and 12V power.
After you get the blower working, look at the rest.


Deteriorata posted:

My Dad had a '69 LTD, so I'm passingly familiar with that generation of cars. One of the problems with driving with the windows down is that it sets up an edge tone on the window frame, resulting in a deep throbbing at highway speeds that can be really annoying. Vent windows broke the airflow over the window to eliminate that.

I think the DirectAire system was a vent through the firewall (maybe fan-assisted?) that produced higher pressure in the cabin, which would push the airstream away from the window frame and also eliminate the throbbing.

ETA: Here's a photo of a 71 LTD dash. I think the "DirectAire" is just the vents at either end of the dash to direct air toward the window. I guess it was quite the innovation at the time.



If it's anything like GMs vent system when not AC-equipped, it's air doors that open into the cowl cavity to let air in. In the case of contemporaries to my Cutlass, right there through the kick panels.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
just as a sanity check, have you tried all of the fan switch positions? typically, "high" is a direct 12V connection to the fan, and the lesser speeds go through a resistor to lower the current and thus the fan speed. In lots of old cars (including mine, lol) the resistor burns out, but the high speed still works. if yours is like that, you probably just have to replace the resistor, which may be a part of the switch or may be a separate part.

if not, as darchangel said, check to see if you're getting voltage at the fan and work backwards from there

emptyspace
Oct 21, 2008
Direct-aire was a little fresh air vent under the steering wheel in mine. I don't remember it doing anything for the windshield, but my defroster worked.

70-71 did have disc brakes as on option.

Previa_fun
Nov 10, 2004

Sweet car.

You mentioned the power steering was aftermarket - was power steering a factory option for this car? The install looks factory to my eye except for the belt just barely kissing the water pump pulley. I don't imagine water pumps draw that much power but I'd be concerned about slipping and losing cooling at higher RPM.

emptyspace
Oct 21, 2008

Previa_fun posted:

Sweet car.

You mentioned the power steering was aftermarket - was power steering a factory option for this car? The install looks factory to my eye except for the belt just barely kissing the water pump pulley. I don't imagine water pumps draw that much power but I'd be concerned about slipping and losing cooling at higher RPM.

It was an option. I had a 70 sportsroof and a 71 Ranchero. Both had disc brakes and power steering.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Previa_fun posted:

You mentioned the power steering was aftermarket - was power steering a factory option for this car? The install looks factory to my eye

Borgeson makes aftermarket power steering systems (but they use an OEM PS pump when possible in the application), so yeah that's aftermarket. Pretty recent too.

Agreed on the water pump belt, though water pumps don't need a lot of power. I'd imagine OP would notice belt squeal if it slipped.

Agrikk
Oct 17, 2003

Take care with that! We have not fully ascertained its function, and the ticking is accelerating.

STR posted:

Borgeson makes aftermarket power steering systems (but they use an OEM PS pump when possible in the application), so yeah that's aftermarket. Pretty recent too.

Agreed on the water pump belt, though water pumps don't need a lot of power. I'd imagine OP would notice belt squeal if it slipped.

Funny you should mention that. When I do a cold start and have to rev the engine to get it running there is definitely a squeal. Same with taking a slow tight turn with the wheel hard over. So I’ll have to make some adjustments there.

Another thing that’s top of the list after getting the heater blower working is seatbelts.

The original configuration was a retractable lap belt with a non-retractable shoulder belt that buckled into the buckle of the lap belt. But the lap belts broke at some point and are now missing completely. The spooling housing is still there but no belt.

Are there aftermarket belts that behave like a modern seatbelt that bolt into the ceiling and floor by the door post? Or some other configuration that matches the current floor-and-door-post bolt pattern that provides a retractable lap/shoulder belt?

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...

Agrikk posted:

Funny you should mention that. When I do a cold start and have to rev the engine to get it running there is definitely a squeal. Same with taking a slow tight turn with the wheel hard over. So I’ll have to make some adjustments there.

Another thing that’s top of the list after getting the heater blower working is seatbelts.

The original configuration was a retractable lap belt with a non-retractable shoulder belt that buckled into the buckle of the lap belt. But the lap belts broke at some point and are now missing completely. The spooling housing is still there but no belt.

Are there aftermarket belts that behave like a modern seatbelt that bolt into the ceiling and floor by the door post? Or some other configuration that matches the current floor-and-door-post bolt pattern that provides a retractable lap/shoulder belt?

There are; I bought some from Retro Belt for my Nova. Looks like they've got sets for '70 Mustangs but not Torinos. Not sure if those will fit for you but I figure they're both long-door coupes, so maybe? Might be worth an email to them to see if they can get you any more info.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Also https://www.ssnake-oyl.com/
They do custom and replacement seat belts. I was looking at them, among others, to get retractable shoulder belts in my Cutlass (it has the same arrangement as you're Torino did, originally - retractable lap belts and a fixed shoulder belt that latches between them if desired.)

Agrikk
Oct 17, 2003

Take care with that! We have not fully ascertained its function, and the ticking is accelerating.
Daydreaming about the Torino while it is taken apart for a tuneup:

If I were to redo the interior in basic black but get it done in phases, is there an order do doing it?

Like seats first then door panels then carpet then dash then headliner?

I’m thinking I could throw some seat covers and floor mats down but the dash is hard to conceal. Can you re-upholster a dash?

On the one had it would be fun to keep the retro disco speedometer and stuff, but it would also be nice to have a newer, brighter instrument package.

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...
When I did my Nova I kind of did everything at once, but I'd start with the carpet if I were you because everything that can come out needs to come out for it. While you have the old poo poo ripped out, that's a good time to clean up the floor pans and paint/soundproof if wanted/needed. After the new carpet goes in, that's a good time for a new headliner since the seats are out of the way. Once those two are done, it's just a matter of preference for the rest. Seats, dash, door panels, sail panels, etc.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

When I did my Nova I kind of did everything at once, but I'd start with the carpet if I were you because everything that can come out needs to come out for it. While you have the old poo poo ripped out, that's a good time to clean up the floor pans and paint/soundproof if wanted/needed. After the new carpet goes in, that's a good time for a new headliner since the seats are out of the way. Once those two are done, it's just a matter of preference for the rest. Seats, dash, door panels, sail panels, etc.

Seconding this more or less. The Dash can make a giant mess which is unwanted on fresh carpet. Doors can be refreshed at anytime, and when you do, then is a good time to replace their hinge bushings.

Pull the seats and all the interior trim. Bag and tag everything and their respective locations. A piece of card stock inside the bag is harder to wipe off than sharpie on the bag itself.
Pull the dash.
Remove and replace all the old sound deadening.
reinstall the dash.
Install the carpet
Install headliner
Trim
Then seats. Don't forget fresh seatbelts.

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Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...
^^^ Yeah, that's a good point. I don't know what your dash is like so it might be wise to tackle that before the new carpet goes in. Mine was just masking, painting, and replacing the pad so there wasn't much real mess to speak of.

Little tip: pull the steering wheel when you're doing the carpet and seats and poo poo. It's just really nice to have it out of the way.

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