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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Little tip: pull the steering wheel when you're doing the carpet and seats and poo poo. It's just really nice to have it out of the way. Unless you're clumsy like me and bash your back into the stub all the time. Last time I did a major interior assembly I ended up rolling a baby sock up over it so it would hurt less each time I wasn't paying attention spatially: 
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Nov 15, 2021 22:15
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LloydDobler posted:Unless you're clumsy like me and bash your back into the stub all the time. Last time I did a major interior assembly I ended up rolling a baby sock up over it so it would hurt less each time I wasn't paying attention spatially: I've lost count of how many times I've cut my head open on various project car steering shafts. Now I stick a bunch of foam around it...which means I hit my head on something else.
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Nov 16, 2021 12:10
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Short section of a pool noodle would work good for that.
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Nov 16, 2021 12:58
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NitroSpazzz posted:I've lost count of how many times I've cut my head open on various project car steering shafts. Now I stick a bunch of foam around it...which means I hit my head on something else. This, but the dangling hood latch on a lot of older cars. Worst offender is my Cutlass, that has a "tooth", an extension of the hood that fits down between the grills, and hood hinges that don't let it open near enough to get out of the way. Like this:  (not mine. That one is *way* nicer, a 442, and a convertible.) wesleywillis posted:Short section of a pool noodle would work good for that. Which is what I do for that dangling tooth. Pipe insulation, actually, but same difference with a convenient split already in it.
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Nov 17, 2021 20:06
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I’ve been faffing about with the blower and it looks like someone at some point bypassed the ignition switch to allow the fan to run without the key. There’s a short somewhere that is having the dual impact of not allowing the blower to run while also intermittently draining the battery. I’ve been doing a lot of wire chasing lately, which exposing all kinds of jury rigging. My uncle used to go on and on about his mechanic and how great a job they do/did but I think I’m going to hate them and their lovely half-baked workarounds before too long. I’ve also been after the leaking window on the driver side and I’ve managed to adjust the window somewhat to minimize the opening. I think the issue is the door hinges themselves are old so the door hangs out of true, creating a gap at the end of the window. I wonder where I might source door hinges? I’m trying to be chill about this whole process as I’m sure my attempts to get the car safely and legally drivable will reveal a bunch of poo poo that’ll need taking care of. First steps in getting to know a new old car will be lots of steps backwards for a while! Strangely, the thing irritating me the most is the loose covering on the steering column that is sorta broken and rattling around loose after the three-on-the-tree was moved to a shifter on the transmission tunnel. Whoever did the work left the original cover in place so there’s this empty stub of plastic just dangling there. Not sure why this is the thing that chaps but nevertheless there you go. Agrikk fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Nov 17, 2021 |
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Nov 17, 2021 22:42
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Ecklers (and probably a hundred other places) has hinge rebuild kits for pretty cheap: https://www.ecklers.com/door-hinge-pin-bushing-kit-falcon-fairlane-ranchero-torino-1960-1970-42-77912-1.html Usually it's just shagged out bushings that cause the sag, but you can probably get new actual hinges if they're truly needed.
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Nov 17, 2021 23:25
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Progress on a running car project is not a straight line. Stuff you have fixed and are done with will reveal further issues and that's fine. Even on my empty hull of a project I've taken things in and out to move forward.
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Nov 18, 2021 00:07
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Oh wow I'm so glad to see this thread got a happy update! That car looks awesome and like a perfect rolling project. That book of documentation is such a lucky thing to get with it, both functionally and as a touchstone to the family connection. Excited to see how the project goes along, sounds like you've got good priorities so far.
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Nov 18, 2021 00:11
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Agrikk posted:Strangely, the thing irritating me the most is the loose covering on the steering column that is sorta broken and rattling around loose after the three-on-the-tree was moved to a shifter on the transmission tunnel. Whoever did the work left the original cover in place so there’s this empty stub of plastic just dangling there. Not sure why this is the thing that chaps but nevertheless there you go. While the annoying little things can often really piss you off and feel like massive issues - if you have an old/project car that has multiple little issues but is still running and driving you are winning!
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Nov 18, 2021 01:34
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That’s the thing, isn’t it? My rough, snarly, temperamental Nellybelle is definitely a work in progress but this rolling beast of a car that floats around corners like a rowboat on high seas is. So. Much. Fun. I’d forgotten what being behind a V8 is like and just sitting in the driveway blipping the throttle brings me joy.
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Nov 18, 2021 02:01
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Agrikk posted:That’s the thing, isn’t it? There's a reason I put rowdier mufflers on my Crown Vic. It's got a V8 - I want to know it has a V8. And make sure everyone else does, too. It's not that loud, but I can pretend.
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Nov 20, 2021 00:52
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Darchangel posted:There's a reason I put rowdier mufflers on my Crown Vic. The shop that put the mufflers on the mustang got told “ I want it loud, but not so loud my wife hates it” They did not listen. Wife now refuses to have any part of the car……. Sounds good though, might need a louder stereo.
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Nov 20, 2021 04:23
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morethanjake32 posted:The shop that put the mufflers on the mustang got told “ I want it loud, but not so loud my wife hates it” See, I wanted about stock late-model Mustang loud. I thought about buying take-offs from a current GT, but it’s problematic since they’re the *end* of the system in Mustangs. Not *that* bad, but I went with a somewhat easier option instead, and I’m liking it. I keep thinking about making the Outback a bit noisier, too. That flat six needs to wail like a 911…
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Nov 24, 2021 20:48
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Darchangel posted:See, I wanted about stock late-model Mustang loud. I thought about buying take-offs from a current GT, but it’s problematic since they’re the *end* of the system in Mustangs. Not *that* bad, but I went with a somewhat easier option instead, and I’m liking it. 
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Nov 24, 2021 22:19
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Krakkles posted:I'd love to see this happen. Step one is custom manifolds, right? Not really anything that can be done with my year's EZ30 - the heads have a sort of log manifold built in, so there's only one port exiting the head rather than individual ports for each cylinder. Great for turbo, not so great for NA extractors. '05+ have 3 individual ports per head, and can have nice tubular headers. About all I can do is replace the suitcase-sized muffler, and honestly, it would only be for more noise - it flows fine as far as I know, especially with the factory bypass on it functioning. You can get a stainless-steel head pipes and exhaust (from OBX, so... meh), but there's no real performance addition. edit: Though just a muffler change can sound pretty decent: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxGFBvycfrY Darchangel fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Nov 30, 2021 |
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Nov 30, 2021 20:17
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I got the blower working so yay, but sometime between Friday night and now my car stopped firing. It has a new battery, starter works and engine turns over, but it doesn’t catch. Scratching my head if this is coincidence or what but I know that the car was working Friday night after I verified the working blower, but now it ain’t. Gremlins
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Nov 30, 2021 21:13
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Electrons, probably. Internal combustion engines are pretty simple. Fuel, air, and spark (at the right time). One of these things isn’t. Just figure out which one and fix it. I bet on ignition.
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Nov 30, 2021 22:35
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I'll take the other side of the coin and say randomly dead fuel pump. Had one crap out on me for no good reason.
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Dec 1, 2021 00:40
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seconding check fuel pump. when I let my Falcon sit for awhile it ran fine for a few starts then just stopped and sure enough, no fuel from the pump. Carb is a second runner up
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Dec 1, 2021 00:50
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Fuel pump is easy to check. Take the air horn off the carburetor and see if there is fuel in the bowl as a start. You still have a points distributor. If you left you left the key on while fiddling with the blower, it could have burned the points up. Or the points just decided to burn themselves up. Normally I like keeping old stuff old, but gently caress points. Duraspark 2 electronic ignition is going to be a good upgrade. No more points, and practically a drop in replacement on a 302. Probably about $100 from a junkyard or $250 piecing it together. There are other options too, like Petronix or HEI, but I've had good luck with Duraspark and parts are available at brick and mortar stores. In the meantime, you're going to have to learn how to clean and adjust points anyway.
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Dec 1, 2021 01:05
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Fuel pump is easy to check. Take the air horn off the carburetor and see if there is fuel in the bowl as a start. My money is on dead points. The murderstang left me dead in the water about 2 years ago because the 50,year old bracket for the points decided it wanted to be a 2 part bracket. Bought the pertronix and 15 minutes and a philips screwdriver later never looked back.
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Dec 1, 2021 04:43
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gently caress points. gently caress bouncing points, gently caress burnt points, gently caress points. I had a ‘72 Dart and was constantly fussing with them. My guess is the carb, but i won’t have an afternoon to tinker for a bit. Edit: speaking of carbs and points and such like- what are the opinions on an aftermarket EFI like a Holley Sniper? I could go full electronic and be rid of this carb/points setup? Agrikk fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Dec 1, 2021 |
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Dec 1, 2021 05:15
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Aftermarket EFI is fine. Just be aware you will be doing a file pump as well, and the kits get a bit pricey. Worth it, I think.
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Dec 3, 2021 20:09
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Holley is having some sort of holidays sale if you're looking to buy now. Still going to be over a grand.
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Dec 3, 2021 20:14
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personally i think a carb of modern manufacture (so it has no problem with modern gas, and theres not tons of leaky play in all the shafts) and a solid-state distributor (pertronix, msd, mallory, whatever) will cure most of the hassles but also not be "too modern" if that's a concern. that stuff isn't cheap either, though, so it might not actually be much less than just getting an EFI kit that does everything
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Dec 4, 2021 08:00
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Crazy that it's been a year and a half since the last post in this thread but I haven't been idle with the car and have been having a blast fixing it up (even when I'm pissed off). I got new door hinges that allow the doors to no longer sag at the ends, which fixed the leaking windows. But now that the doors are straight they reveal that the body panels are not plumb. A body guy I know got the quarter panels looking mostly right but it's going to take a serious effort to make the adjustments all the way around the car to get all the panels to hang right and get all the gaps between the panels even. But that's for a later day. Installed a new set of seat belts, so now the car can legally seat six people (three in the back seat and three on the front bench - although the middle person has to sit with the shift knob between their legs.  )The car was plagued with all kinds of electrical issues and after chasing down a couple of them I decided it would be easier and more reliable to get the whole car required. So one American Autowire Highway 22 Plus Wiring Harness Kit and a couple thousand dollars in labor later I now have a shiny new harness.  The harness and a clean wiring job fixed a bunch of random issues, including a battery drain issue that would cause the battery to go dead after 2-3 days. But that revealed a starter issue where the starter motor would draw six hundred amps while cranking. So one starter motor later solves that. But the car would randomly not start the second or third time after sitting on a battery charger overnight. A fuckton of testing and the presence of a belt squeal leads me to think that it's a bad belt configuration that needs to be modified. Currently there is a single V-belt that loops around the driveshaft, the alternator, the water pump and an aftermarket power steering kit:       After testing, the alternator bounces between 6-ish and 14-ish volts, which to me seems like the belt is slopping over the pulley causing the car to charge irregularly. The belt slip would also explain the squeal when I crank hard on the wheel or rev the engine. So I'm guessing I need to split the belt into two loops: one around the original equipment (water pump, alternator, drive shaft) and one loop around the drive shaft and power steering pulley. I think I'll have to buy a crankshaft pulley with two channels for the two belts, but I think I'll have to buy a new power steering kit that has the pulley in the right place on the second loop. How do I tell what power steering pump will have the pulley in the right place? Or can I buy spacers or some kind of bracket for the existing pump? Agrikk fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Jul 29, 2023 |
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Jul 28, 2023 01:07
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I took a quick look at the Borgeson website and they have installation instructions still online for kits similar to that one. First thing is I’d do is have a look at those and see if it has been installed the recommended way. It looks like it uses spacers it put it the right spot, should be a way to modify that. That appears to be a fairly expensive kit so it may best to try and get it working better before resorting to replacing it. https://www.borgeson.com/Pumps-Brac...b-Shipping_info https://www.borgeson.com/P-S-Conversion-63-70-Mid-Sized-Ford.html https://www.borgeson.com/instructions-1 I didn’t look close enough to tell if this is exactly the same one, looks generally similar. That steering box might be one that gives you a quicker steering ratio, if so that’s a nice improvement that was made.
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Jul 28, 2023 02:36
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Yeah, your squeal is probably going to be at the crank pulley or water pump, since bot of those have what amounts to incidental contact with the belt. I'd very much prefer at least 90 degrees of belt contact on all pulleys, ideally more like 120+. Closer to 180 degrees on the alternator, since, yeah, that can be a significant drag. Separate belts for alternator and PS are typical. I'd bet there is a factory pulley and brackets to do the job. That said, it not starting shortly after being on a charger probably isn't you know, a charging issue. More likely to be a starter or starter solenoid issue. Easy to test the solenoid, at least.
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Jul 28, 2023 23:11
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Even multi-ribbed serpentine belts don't have that little contact - they're usually running 120-180 degrees around each pulley. I think you're on the right track with splitting it into two belts. I agree with Darchangel, it's likely slipping at the crank. Is the entire electrical system dropping to 6 volts, or just the output from the alternator? If so, your battery is shot, and your alternator may not be far behind. Not wanting to crank on the third try also points at the battery, but you can test it yourself - hook up a meter to the battery, jump the solenoid (incoming wire on the left to the black wire wire on the solenoid), crank it a few times. See how low voltage drops. MAKE SURE THE IGNITION IS OFF, parking brake set, car not in gear, unplug the coil wire, etc - you don't a chance of it starting - and stand to the side of the car just in case it does wind up in gear. If you happen to get a no crank and don't see much voltage drop, solenoid or starter are likely bad. I've had starters fail quick - like 2 weeks quick - so a bad one already isn't unheard of. If you didn't replace the solenoid with the starter, I'd go ahead and replace it too - they don't like pushing 600 amps, there's a good chance the contacts are pitted to hell. You should be able to move the PS pump out with spacers or washers. Don't need to throw the baby out with the bathwater. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Jul 29, 2023 |
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Jul 29, 2023 00:33
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Thanks for the replies, y'all! I appreciate it. I'm looking into a dual groove pulley and a spacer kit for the power steering pump and a friend thinks he can fab a set of spacers easily enough, so we'll see where that takes us. Question: does it matter which belt goes on the inner groove of the pulley? (the groove closest to the engine) I would think it doesn't matter and it's easier to move just the power steering pump up a little and have its loop be the outer one (the grooves closest to the radiator) rather than trying to adjust the alternator/water pump loop.
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Jul 29, 2023 18:35
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I don't have any useful input but I want to say I'm happy seeing this is still going.
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Jul 29, 2023 20:48
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it's a windsor motor, right? there are basically an unlimited number of these around, and in junkyards. what i would probably do is go to a pick n pull, wander the yard (you'll probably have the most luck with trucks), and look at how the factory set them up. the old chevys ive seen usually have the power steering on the inner belt, and the alt/wp on the outer one. so if that's the way they mostly are, maybe you could get all the accessory brackets and pulleys off the same motor for a small amount of money and you'd be fairly certain they'd all work together. that looks like a GM power steering pump you have there, though, so maybe you'll have to take your friend up on a custom spacer for that one to get it to line up. idk how similar that alternator is to later ones, though. maybe it would be too much of a project to upgrade to a later alt at the same time, if yours won't fit the newer bracketry. maybe you'll get lucky and you can just swap the pulleys.
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Jul 29, 2023 22:25
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A general question that I’ve been curious about: Power washing an engine. Yes? No? I’m still a ways off from tidying up the engine compartment but I wouldn’t mind de-griming the engine until I get to cleaning everything up. I’m already going to sand and spray paint the existing air filter cover as I putter around waiting for the dual-channel pulley to arrive. Will I screw anything up by power washing the engine bay on a low pressure (<1500 psi) setting? Clearly staying away from the alternator and the belt.
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Jul 30, 2023 23:54
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It's fine. Cover the distributor with a plastic bag, same with the coil. Keep the spray away from the master cylinder. Expect a good bit of belt squeal when you restart it.
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Jul 31, 2023 01:39
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After it dries off and any gunk from the engine splatter wears off any squeal will go away, right?
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Jul 31, 2023 07:05
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Agrikk posted:After it dries off and any gunk from the engine splatter wears off any squeal will go away, right? If you just got it wet then it will stop squealing when it dries, providing you didn't end up spraying oily gunk onto the belt. I'd take the belt of if it's easy to do.
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Jul 31, 2023 07:07
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Agrikk posted:A general question that I’ve been curious about : randomidiot posted:It's fine. Cover the distributor with a plastic bag, same with the coil. Keep the spray away from the master cylinder. It's not absolutely necessary, but I'd add: probably disconnect the negative on the battery. If not, cover or avoid the alternator. I've managed to kill one of those by forgetting to do so - of course an expensive at the time '80s Acura Legend alternator. There's nothing you can really hurt aside from electrical, as long as you take care to not, say, spray directly into the carb, or oil fill/vent. I've definitely sprayed down my engine bays more than once, the last few times with a power washer.
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Aug 2, 2023 23:09
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Got the extended brackets and dual channel pulley installed. Belts are now officially squeak-free and the alternator is right around 14.2 or so. I imagine the water cooler is running more efficiently, but I wouldn't know because the temperature gauge is broken.   I'm bummed that I forgot to paint the new brackets until after they were installed and I couldn't be assed to undo everything so I zapped them with rattle can and now it looks sloppy. This is why you stop your work before you get tired, folks!
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Aug 5, 2023 06:42
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Agrikk posted:I'm bummed that I forgot to paint the new brackets until after they were installed and I couldn't be assed to undo everything so I zapped them with rattle can and now it looks sloppy. This is why you stop your work before you get tired, folks! Truth! Still, "works" is better than "looks good" (though both is better...  )
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Aug 7, 2023 20:53
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Took the belts off and (tentatively) power washed the engine bay. Everything still works right after so I guess I did it right. When I took the air filter cover off to get access to the top of the manifold a bunch of rust flaked off, so now I’ve decided my next thing is to paint the air filter cover and valve covers while I wait for my brake conversion appointment in October. The air filter cover should be easy enough, but removing the valve covers has me a bit nervous. It seems simple enough- remove bolts, remove covers, peel away the gaskets, clean contact surfaces, apply gasket goop to covers, add gasket when goop gets tacky, put covers back on motor, screw down bolts in alternating patter, torque to 5-7 foot-pounds. Right? But what makes me nervous is what the valve cover removal might reveal. What if there’s a bunch of sludge? Or cracked valves? A Burmese Python? Im not sure I could just button it all back up knowing poo poo was wrong under there.
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Aug 9, 2023 15:05
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