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devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Epitope posted:

I think packing tape might screw up paint, but I have started going to town with painter's tape.

Be careful with the painters tape - if you leave it long enough it'll be difficult to remove. Clear caulk is definitely your best bet (or whatever color that blends in nicely).

If it were me, I'd just go crazy with caulk anywhere you can find air leaks.

You might want a smoke pencil (or some smoky incense) to help find exactly where the air leaks are. If you do this while the house is under pressure you're effectively doing directed air sealing

devicenull fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Jan 13, 2021

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devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Epitope posted:

Hmm, while I feel I am experiencing a horror show, the protrusion wasn't something that struck me. Do you mean the way it was executed, or that it's even there?

Here's the current list for a GC, if we can find one who's worth a drat that doesn't just nope out immediately.
-Turn skylight to roof (need to decide how much eave, especially on the side)
-Seal the window that clearly leaks. Do we need to remove (replace with wall) that window too? Might depend on the foundation...
-Seal the attic corner
-Fix/seal the LED outlet wiring
-Seal the kitchen vent pipe through the rafter box. (Also verify the pipe itself is installed well)
-Extend the ridge vent so it connects and we have ridge vent along the entire roof

Also, I forget not all of us are carefully constructing a 3d model in our brain. For those not being driven mad by grappling with house, maybe this helps:





The hot spot is over what was originally eave, but now is roof of the kitchen addition

So outlet gaskets are a thing, so you don't really have to rig that up from caulk saver. Honestly, if it were me I'd pull the outlet out and caulk where all the wires come in with fireblock caulk.

How are you on patching drywall? I wonder if you might be better served by getting someone to come in and dense pack cellulose into the walls. This would involve a bunch of holes drilled into stuff, but might solve a bunch of your wall leakage issues.

Except for your skylight issue, a bunch of those tasks look like they'd be better served by an insulation/siding company, rather then a GC. Maybe look at BPI certificated people near you?

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer
Is there a ceiling you can get to where all those question marks are? I'd honestly just drill some holes in there and see wtf is up.

One suggestion for the skylight is to put some of this stuff over it. If that improves things, it's a pretty good indication that removing the skylight will help. Alternatively, try to pin up some heavy curtains, but that sounds pretty hard.

TBH I think that skylight is probably a part of your issue. Even if it is a pretty high end one, it still has an R value of around 3... wheras even a 2x4 bay filled with spray foam gives you an R12.

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