|
I'm not an expert like some of the other guys, but I wouldn't rule out straight up leakage around that kitchen addition, that roll roofing you have is notorious for leaking, even in places where you don't get snow buildup and ice dams, and it looks like there's a big seam in it right where the problem area is, and a bunch of really weird looking flashing. Also those nearly-flat skylights are the worst loving idea in snow country. Roof penetrations are difficult to seal well on high pitch roofs in places that don't have snow, a nearly-flat roof that builds up snow, and you better make drat sure you know what you're doing.
|
#
¿
Dec 15, 2020 03:45
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 13, 2024 22:17 |
|
|
Motronic posted:Except you don't know enough about any of that to matter. You're just wasting time here. You're a pretty acerbic dude. But that might be a good thing considering that I spent 7 years in construction, and am constantly overwhelmed by issues on my own house. This house is troubleshooting, which just takes so much ingrained knowledge and experience that it's near impossible to do over the internet. Tezer posted:There's no harm in messing around a bit You're a saint though. What could OP do to mitigate the cost of a remodel? It seems to me like he could maybe get away with reframing the roof on the addition to make sure everything is properly sealed and vented. If I were bumblefucking my own house, I'd tear that kitchen roof off and try to build a new one, following the roofline of that section labeled "loft" that amount of intrusiveness might allow for proper sealing/venting of the whole area, without tearing everything down and starting from first principles. That frost on the outside of the window shows to me that they're not properly caulked (primary moisture barrier) and that they have no secondary moisture blocking of any sort. I would start by ripping those mfers straight out. (Probs in the summer tho.)
|
|
#
¿
Dec 17, 2020 07:05
|
|
|
The thing about "corking it up" is that improperly installed windows are just a water pathway begging for a chance to leak, they will gently caress you over and over, because the fundamental mechanics of moisture intrusion prevention require redundant barriers in case one leaks, and with the windows in place the beat you can do is exactly one moisture barrier (caulk). If you wanna just send it, get a case of Sika Pro sealant and a caulk gun and go to town on the inside and outside of the windows while they're relatively dry. Or even better a few tubes for the inside and a tub of Mastic for the outside.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 17, 2020 08:42
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Clear packing top on every seam anywhere in your house maybe? They make that heat and shrink window film for exactly this purpose (but usually to stop drafts coming in). That film is for the glass itself, not the seams. I would, in order of preference, -rip the windows out and replace with a solid section of roof. - caulk the interior of the windows until a suitable time that the above option can happen. Those windows in that roof are such a bad idea.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2021 03:15
|
|
|
Wait, is that rafter/ box thing vented to outside? What the gently caress? Also that LED wiring is atrocious.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2021 02:48
|
|
|
Could be drafting down the wall to the outlet from the attic space. That original roof protruding into the living space is a horrorshow. I would encourage you to fix the vent rather than replace with a ventless hood, that's just gonna more humidity in your house.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 20, 2021 09:31
|
|
|
It's a combo microwave/vent hood for the range, the venting's not for the microwave, it's for the stovetop.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 20, 2021 10:44
|
|
|
Epitope posted:
This, at least I can answer. 2 removing the skylights is easy, skylights are just as heavy as normal roof with snow loads etc, it's just a matter of removing some drywall and roof decking and sistering on some new joists in their place (the blocking at the top and bottom of the windows should also be removed to promote airflow) 3 promoting the flow of outside air to the inside of your house is a bad idea. While you have the ceiling ripped apart, have that rafter box ripped open too, see if there's a way to better seal it, or remove it entirely. It doesn't look like it's serving a structural purpose besides leaking air everywhere, and it's a remnant from a clearly poorly scabbed on addition. Drywall is cheap, if you commit to ripping it apart to try and gain access to your leakage points the incremental costs of ripping out more drywall are low. E: that boiler space, with all the heat it pumps out, and how quick the roof heats up, and all the utility penetrations, sounds like a likely culprit, and somewhere you can start carefully removing drywall with low risk, since you can just screw new stuff up and slap mud on it, it's a utility space who cares what it looks like? Elviscat fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Feb 20, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Feb 20, 2021 04:07
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 13, 2024 22:17 |
|
|
Epitope posted:Haha, it's called save the rafters not remove them. Though it might be the only way to keep them safe... Maybe an engineer will answer the phone? I'd gamble a thousand on the chance I could get rid of the rafter box It might just be that I hate your vestigial leaky colon of a rafter box, and would have taken a sawzall to them months ago in your shoes  FWIW, since they can't be load bearing because they're flying through your kitchen 2' from the ceiling, that's the sort of job a GC or carpenter can do under "general stick framing practices" (or words to that effect) and shouldn't require engineering evaluation. I genuinely think that your best course of action is commiting to removing those awful ""skylights"" and tearing into the rest while you're at it, since the additional cost would be low, I've found it's rarely worth going through half-measures to try and fix a problem, when to truly correct it requires much more invasive measures, you end up doing the same job twice as many times and half as well. That's just imo as a fellow homeowner, not a professional by any means.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 20, 2021 06:38
|
|