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K918
Jan 6, 2022

Good. And you?
Absolutely gorgeous vehicles.
I was on the fence between my E30 and a 2002 for the longest time. Ultimately decided to go with the E30 due to chassis rigidity.

What kind of exhaust did you go for? Cat Back?

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LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice


this is the initial list of parts

Exhaust is just being rebuilt from stock. Guy uses a core system for Engine rebuilds. He sends away one of his engine blocks to be rebuilt then takes mine afterwards.

I'm not really in the industry so I don't know if I'm getting ripped off or not but I actually saw the head fresh out of the box.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

LegoMan posted:

Small update (which references a huge update):

It's kind of been sitting in my garage for a while. I've been slowly working on the doorpanels, replacing the carbon fiber (yuck) with real leather. It looks nicer but I'm still not happy with how the edges look so I'm looking for some sort of trim to go around it.

Also I just dropped it off at a German Auto Shop for a complete top to bottom engine/transmission/exhaust rebuild

That's better than an S14 swap. Glad you could find someone willing to do it.

LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice
Normal speakers were too deep so I had a choice, buy super expensive shallow speakers, or come up with a different solution. There are custom kickplate mounts that are around 150 for a set. I only needed another 1/2 inch of clearance so I bought some MDF and cut and mounted a spacer to the original speaker mount.



I only just now realized I forgot to put any kind of sound dampening foam inside so I'll have to pull that apart and take care of that.

Wiring up center console (I probably won't connect the oil/temp gauge right away):


(Not sure if Dewey approves)


Still waiting for shop to give me the call that my engine is ready

LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice


I thought I was done with the sound dampening material rolling but there was this gigantic face of car not covered in it so I felt I could get away with putting more in to help stop road noise from the back.

Before

After


Then there was this bullshit "parcel shelf"

gently caress BMW and their organic 70's curves because cutting out some MDF to fit that took so many trips back to the jigsaw but I finally got it and covered it with that "carpet" they use for speaker boxes.


6x9's mounted.


Next up, putting the seats back in in preparation for Feb 14 when I get to drop her off at the shop for new engine :parrot:

GentlemanofLeisure
Aug 27, 2008
Just found this via your post in the BMW thread. Looking good, can't wait to see what's next!

I guess from your parts order picture, you're going with a stock rebuild of the engine. Any plans on making any extra power down the line?

LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice
The way they explained it the work they're doing will add enough power to it, with new cams, new pistons etc, resealing everything. If I wanted to be fast I'd probably have sprung for an M3 motor which is a pretty popular swap for a 2002 I've heard. I don't want to race, I just want it fun to drive.

I'm also not very knowledgeable about engines in general which is why I'm paying to have it done. If there's some small upgrades I can do (I used to own a 97 Prelude that I replaced the intake on) I'll look into it.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


M3 motor is a popular swap yes but have you seen the prices... M10 can make some serious power, it just depends how long you want to go between rebuilds and how use-able that power is on the street. M10 is a great little engine.

LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice

NitroSpazzz posted:

M3 motor is a popular swap yes but have you seen the prices... M10 can make some serious power, it just depends how long you want to go between rebuilds and how use-able that power is on the street. M10 is a great little engine.

Engine alone would be around 10k, then frame modification because it's not a simple swap, and I'm guessing the transmission isn't the same (although i don't know about that one).

The guy floated around 25K for the whole process, which would put me 30K into the car (cost+engine)

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Let me know where your guy is finding S14s that don't need a full rebuild (8-10k) for $10k, I'd like to buy a few. Not trying to be an rear end, the vintage BMW world has gone mad. I think even the spare Getrag 265 I have would now sell for $2-2.5k :smith:

Love the project and look forward to more updates. I keep hoping to find a 2002 in need of a little work for a reasonable price.

LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice

NitroSpazzz posted:

Let me know where your guy is finding S14s that don't need a full rebuild (8-10k) for $10k, I'd like to buy a few. Not trying to be an rear end, the vintage BMW world has gone mad. I think even the spare Getrag 265 I have would now sell for $2-2.5k :smith:

Love the project and look forward to more updates. I keep hoping to find a 2002 in need of a little work for a reasonable price.

The guy who sold me the Roundie had an "M3 motor" in his garage he wanted to sell me for 10k but had known even less about the S14 than I do now and was just happy to have the car and didn't want to buy an Engine that cost almost twice what the car did.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

LegoMan posted:


gently caress BMW and their organic 70's curves because cutting out some MDF to fit that took so many trips back to the jigsaw but I finally got it and covered it with that "carpet" they use for speaker boxes.


You're supposed to make a template out of cardboard or even paper that you just crease into the curve, then cut to fit with scissors. Once you have that you trace it on to the MDF. Even that's not perfect sometimes but it might save you a trip or two in the future.

LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice
Rebuilt Engine Update

New Header


Bonus video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WKy9RWoaLQ8

Next Steps: Replace Wiring Harness with Painless Kit

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

Man it’s a shame to hide that header down there, looks like a nice one.

LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice
Free tool update (found inside fender. Probably accounted for half my road noise)


I have no idea what this thing is yet (not the regulator, and was located near the ignition coil. still investigating)


:gonk: (Don't zoom in very :nms:)

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...

LegoMan posted:

Free tool update (found inside fender. Probably accounted for half my road noise)


I have no idea what this thing is yet (not the regulator, and was located near the ignition coil. still investigating)


:gonk: (Don't zoom in very :nms:)


Middle one looks to be some kind of ancient relay. Horn, potentially.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Hey a 13mm spanner isn't too common. Nice find.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Middle one looks to be some kind of ancient relay. Horn, potentially.

this was my exact thought, too :respek:

LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice


now I know why the mechanic basically told me he was going to get me a starter and brake lights and told me to get the car out of his shop asap.

I've been going wire by wire checking for exposed copper and replacing any chunks I find. There's not going to be a problem using a lot of butt connectors if I use higher gauge wire in the replacement sections right?

(I'm not sure but I think it was actually the heater that melted the wires, they're very close and it had no divert tubing)

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:

Replacing those wire sections isn't exactly a guaranteed problem but making the replacement sections of wire larger doesn't provide any benefit or additional resilience unless you replace the whole run. Sure, that particular bit of wire won't start on fire but the problem is going to happen at the weakest link. The conductor will self heat more in the places with higher resistance. That could be damaged wire, a bad crimp, a poor connection, or just wire that's too small. Splices and connectors are each potential problems, adding more is a good way to lower reliability.

Have a good crimp tool and adding a bunch of splices will work but it is a bandaid if the rest of the circuit is in questionable condition. If you strip the wire and still see corrosion, cut more wire off.

If I was fixing up a car with the level of care you have shown so far, I would replace the entire conductor. And I'd be side eyeing every other wire super hard. It's 50 years old. Maybe it was the heater but I'd still feel better with wire that didn't melt from a heater.

LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice
Well, the good news is I wired up enough of the starter circuit to get the car started. It ran for about a minute then died. And refused to start again (kept turning over). The fuel filter has gas in it, and it's a mechanical fuel pump. I think the ignition coil might not be wired right but also there's a type of valve that is on the carburetor that runs to the ignition coil as well I'm assuming might have something to do with fuel being shut off.

LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice
So small update while I'm still troubleshooting. I had to purge my entire fuel system because the screen from the fuel pickup on the tank came off and the fuel pump was sucking up literally everything in the tank. That includes poo poo at the bottom so my float chamber was not letting fuel into the throat (because the jets were presumably clogged)

So I'm hoping to start it up again today after putting the carburetor back together

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Might be worth tossing one of those clear inline filters in the engine bay somewhere visible.

Hope it fires up once everything is cleaned and back together.

LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice
Thats the thing, I do have an inline fuel filter i dont know why that poo poo wasn't picked up. It doesn't look old so ill have to look at the invoice from the shop and see if it was on the list of parts replaced.

LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice
I'm completely at a loss. I've tripled checked my timing, cleaned carburetor, fuel is getting to carb, each plug is sparking like the sun. Fuel is just not getting into the combustion chamber.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
if you manually actuate the throttle do you hear/see the accelerator pump working?

LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice
I just read something about an idle solenoid. Is that a sort of shut-off for allowing fuel into the chamber?

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

LegoMan posted:

I just read something about an idle solenoid. Is that a sort of shut-off for allowing fuel into the chamber?

i have never heard of those before, but a quick google makes me think that they block off the idle jets when the ignition is off, to prevent run-on/dieseling. if you have that, and it's stuck closed, i would think you'd still be able to run on the primary circuit by holding the throttle a little bit open, it just wouldn't idle

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