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Bobby Cox posted:Hello! I'm on Ignition playing NL25 and recently started 4 tabling NL10, I'm having a blast even if it's for peanuts. I managed to win one of those Lucky 7s $22 buy-in tournaments a few months ago for $1600, too, that's my big story. It's turned into a nice bankroll while I try to get better at cash games. it doesnt really matter ignitions rakeback is like 1%. but afaik tournament tickets are the most efficient way to get your 1%
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Jan 19, 2021 18:30
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Thanks! I miss real rakeback 
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Jan 19, 2021 18:32
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bus hustler posted:In terms of small winnings but free money There's a PredictIt thread in this very forum  https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3955178
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Jan 19, 2021 18:52
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Lutha Mahtin posted:There's a PredictIt thread in this very forum Yeah i replied in the wrong thread 
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Jan 19, 2021 19:48
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Lutha Mahtin posted:There's a PredictIt thread in this very forum Buy the rumor sell the news
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Jan 20, 2021 13:54
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I am a casual player and I prefer to play live MTT's at one of the 2 local Pittsburgh casino's, so pre-covid I was playing a couple or 3 tournies every week for anywhere between $70 to $260 buy in. occasionally one of the rooms would have a local series for bigger stakes, or WPT Deepstacks or the HPT rolled through with the opportunity for bigger buy ins. I don't play much cash (41 hours from Jan 1 to March 17 according to my spreadsheet) but when I do its usually NLHE 1-3. I'd like to play live PLO but I am guessing its expensive to learn., especially as the local games here tend to get a bit ridiculous, at least according to the players I know and the dealers. since the original lockdown I have thrown a bit of money into NL30 and smaller buy in MTT's online, but I tend to get bored with it quickly and start making bad plays to keep myself entertained.
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Jan 20, 2021 18:29
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I am a 32y old Finn, played semi-professionally from 2011-2018 while studying, finished degree December 2018 and been playing as full-time pro since then. Currently doing coding and IT studies in preparation since Finnish government wants to ban online poker. Played a bunch on the chinese apps, got super frustrated at the blatant collusion and cheating so back on the regulated eurosite grind now. At the moment grinding 100NLHE cash games, highest stake I've played regularly online was 500NLHE. Leperflesh posted:Huh. I had always assumed that any given betting strategy, if applied consistently, has at least one counterstrategy available. Suppose you have two players playing each other headsup, they will constantly be adjusting to what the other one is doing to gain more EV. This will lead to further adjustments and counter adjustments. Given enough time, they will reach a point where neither has anything left to adjust to, as they have now reached equilibrium. This is obviously impossible for a human to do. But solvers, software that solves poker situations, can get very close. The simplest example of this in another game is rock-paper-scissors. If one player throws all three 33.33% of the time, there is nothing the other player can do to increase their EV. Poker is obviously more complex than rps but the basic premise is still there. Finnish Flasher fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Jan 21, 2021 |
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Jan 21, 2021 22:15
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UK player just starting out. I started reading Mental Game of Poker over Christmas, didn't really understand the details of it having never played poker before, spent some time trying to find out how the whole game works, and accidentally got interested in actually playing. Have been doing play money on PokerStars for a couple of weeks while trying to understand some of the thinking and mathematics a bit more. If all goes well, I'm planning on NL2 games, and maaaybe see if it's possible for a new player to start doing a very small bankroll challenge (idk, $50-$150 or something like that). Does anyone have suggestions for new players? (even if it's just "don't bother")
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Jan 23, 2021 18:05
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CGI Stardust posted:UK player just starting out. I started reading Mental Game of Poker over Christmas, didn't really understand the details of it having never played poker before, spent some time trying to find out how the whole game works, and accidentally got interested in actually playing. Have been doing play money on PokerStars for a couple of weeks while trying to understand some of the thinking and mathematics a bit more. deposit around $100 and don't set any goals that are influenced by variance. money won per week, winrate, none of that. your goals are to play well by learning basic strategy such as pot odds and range construction, manage your emotional response to both winning and losing (whether your fault or not), and put in solid hours of high quality attention-paying poker.
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Jan 23, 2021 18:28
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Looking for some feedback here to make sure I'm not crazy. The weekly group I play with decided to do a "high stakes" night last night which was just a double buy-in of $40 instead of our usual $20 while keeping buy-backs at $20. Things got a little out of control with one guy buying back in four times while another guy bought back in after 10 PM for a tournament that started at 6 PM. I was getting a bit bothered by it because all the first guy was accomplishing was inflating the chip pool and making the game last that much longer as the blinds would take that much longer to weed everyone out, while the second guy bought back in way late in the game when we were down to whether or not you'd be getting a payout and it sucked because it allowed him to hang on just long enough to clinch third place while I busted out in fourth. I didn't want to be "that guy" and tell people to knock it off but this is supposed to be a friendly weekly game with friends and it turned into who can throw the most money into the pot and just outlast everyone else. It really sucked. Would I be wrong to reach out to the guy who runs it and tell him to lay down the law on this? I feel bummed out because I was playing fairly well and managed to get to the end with out ever buying back and wound up losing to people who just brute-forced it.
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Feb 4, 2021 15:22
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It’s always wise to voice your concerns but in a small game like that I highly doubt they will care.
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Feb 4, 2021 15:40
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It’s really up to the dynamics of the group you’re playing with with regards to allowing unlimited rebuys. There’s no monetary benefit to the person who buys in a bunch, and it’s probably good for action and increases the prize pool. If the blinds go up quick enough the increased number of chips really shouldn’t extend play too long, if that’s a concern. On average people who only buy in once aren’t going to cash as often so again for a friendly game if that’s a concern then I’d speak up about it. But when you do cash (compared to a guy who buys in a bunch) your return on investment will be higher. With regards to the second guy buying in real close to making the money I’d probably speak up about it. If your tournament usually is in the money by a certain blind level I’d ask to cut off rebuys at least a few levels before that, mainly because having a money bubble is fun and makes for cool game dynamics. Having rebuys close to the money kind of takes away from that. But yeah as jase said for small friendly games be prepared for your group to disagree with you and if so I wouldn’t make I big deal out of it. Mind_Taker fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Feb 4, 2021 |
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Feb 4, 2021 15:44
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PIZZA.BAT posted:Looking for some feedback here to make sure I'm not crazy. The weekly group I play with decided to do a "high stakes" night last night which was just a double buy-in of $40 instead of our usual $20 while keeping buy-backs at $20. Things got a little out of control with one guy buying back in four times while another guy bought back in after 10 PM for a tournament that started at 6 PM. I was getting a bit bothered by it because all the first guy was accomplishing was inflating the chip pool and making the game last that much longer as the blinds would take that much longer to weed everyone out, while the second guy bought back in way late in the game when we were down to whether or not you'd be getting a payout and it sucked because it allowed him to hang on just long enough to clinch third place while I busted out in fourth. I didn't want to be "that guy" and tell people to knock it off but this is supposed to be a friendly weekly game with friends and it turned into who can throw the most money into the pot and just outlast everyone else. It really sucked. Just establish limited buy backs. My friendlies have a rule of only one buy back in and it works super well, if someone's knocked out super early twice no one minds bending the rules those times.
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Feb 5, 2021 02:18
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I'm a pretty awful player who's never really gone past the noob stages. In my early 20s I got invited to two house games not knowing how to play, accidentally cleaned up, got accused of hustling, and wasn't invited back (in my defense, they helped me out a lot early on). Fast forward 15+ years and a buddy who used to make a meager living playing online told me I'd be good at the game and I learned about the game proper from him. Started playing on Ignition at the lowest buy-in tables and did alright. I'm only sitting on about $20 but I seem to do OK with it. Problem is, I have no loving clue what I'm doing. I have about a dozen hands that I'll always play and then the rest of the time I just kind of guess. I have wild swings as far as wins and losses go but I set hard limits for myself for when I stop playing (both with wins and losses) and tilt doesn't seem to be an issue. What sorts of introductory texts should a guy read who's got some basic idea of what's going on but doesn't really understand the game? Alternatively, what should a guy do to get the game in muscle memory? I still don't have hands/lingo memorized, for example. I'd like to play on Ignition more competently and maybe one day find an actual in-person game somewhere and not just get completely destroyed. Only book I have right now is "Winning Low Limit Hold'em" by Lee Jones. It's not much use because it seems like games other than no limit on Ignition are basically empty tables. Also, I play zone poker more frequently because I feel like it's harder for other players to game me specifically. Is that a silly thought? Even though we're staring at a screen, some psychology can set in if you play a few virtual hands with other anonymous folks.
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Feb 6, 2021 06:20
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knuthgrush posted:Problem is, I have no loving clue what I'm doing. I have about a dozen hands that I'll always play and then the rest of the time I just kind of guess. I have wild swings as far as wins and losses go but I set hard limits for myself for when I stop playing (both with wins and losses) and tilt doesn't seem to be an issue. quote:What sorts of introductory texts should a guy read who's got some basic idea of what's going on but doesn't really understand the game? Alternatively, what should a guy do to get the game in muscle memory? I still don't have hands/lingo memorized, for example. I'd like to play on Ignition more competently and maybe one day find an actual in-person game somewhere and not just get completely destroyed. So most of the old books about how to play poker for beginner will still work pretty well, Getting Started in Hold 'em by Ed Miller, one of the 2+2 guys, is a good beginner book. dan harrington also had 2 books about cash games (these are not his tournament books) but i don't really know the contents of those books. Ed Miler's books have always generally been pretty good. I think you can buy it pretty cheap used on Amazon, or look at your local library to see if they have a copy. As for things you can do at a basic level 1: learn the hand rankings: high card, pair, two pair, set/trips/3 of a kind, straight, flush, full house, quads, straight flush. 2: learn the basic rules of nlhe. who starts the betting, who pays the small blind, big blind (these are forced bets to encourage action for a pot), who acts first before the flop (aka, preflop, which is the round of betting before the first card comes out) and who acts first after the flop (what the first 3 community cards flipped face up are called. the next card is called the turn and the last card is called the river). 3: one thing to practice is figuring out what the "nuts" or the strongest hand you can actually make on the current board are after each subsequent round. for example on a board of 7  8 9the "nuts" in this case is to have a Jack and Ten in your hand for a Jack-high straight. As more cards are drawn, the strongest hand can change and so for example if the turn card makes the board 7 892now the nuts in this case is the Ace high diamond flush, so anyone who is holding the Ace of diamonds plus another diamond has the best hand possible. being able to do this quickly is a good skill to have because it allows you to figure out the strength of your hand relative to the board. 4: understand how important position is: absolute position vs relative position, why you have an advantage playing in position and why you have to play tighter in the blinds. the later you are to act, the more hands you can start to open. quote:Only book I have right now is "Winning Low Limit Hold'em" by Lee Jones. It's not much use because it seems like games other than no limit on Ignition are basically empty tables. yeah limit poker has been pretty dead for a while. yes if you're playing zone poker or its variants, no one can keep track of your stats specifically. but on the other side there's no data that you can use against them. i don't know how much of this is what you wanted to hear but feel free to ask other questions. Strong Sauce fucked around with this message at 10:20 on Feb 10, 2021 |
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Feb 7, 2021 02:10
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This was absolutely what I was looking for. I really appreciate you taking the time to write all that out. I'll try to locate some of those books and study hands+position in the mean time. I may do some more practice on Ignition as well. I considered practicing with a funny money program/site but I don't think it'll be quite the same without actual money on the line (even if it is just pocket change).
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Feb 7, 2021 05:47
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knuthgrush posted:This was absolutely what I was looking for. I really appreciate you taking the time to write all that out. Yeah play money is just gonna be full of people acting like goof balls even if you’re trying to take it seriously, just stick to the penny stakes on ignition. Still a lot of goofballs but at least there is risk. Already mentioned, but the first book that really sunk in for me was Harrington’s 6-max cash game book. He lays out general thought processes really well, gets into specifics, and includes puzzles for you to choose the highest EV play in each chapter. Iirc it’s pretty geared towards beginners and he explains things a lot of other books assume the reader already knows about. But yeah it’s gonna mostly be lots of play combined with study. the more hands you get in the more things start to click. I’m not a huge fan of zone poker personally, but it’s way less boring than sitting around playing a small percentage of hands. I’m not sure if people consider zone to be detrimental to beginners, better, or no difference.
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Feb 8, 2021 01:49
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Tetramin posted:Yeah play money is just gonna be full of people acting like goof balls even if you’re trying to take it seriously, just stick to the penny stakes on ignition. Still a lot of goofballs but at least there is risk. Thanks a ton! I'll grab that book as well. I'm assuming you're talking about the online cash games book, not one of his others?
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Feb 8, 2021 03:56
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knuthgrush posted:Thanks a ton! I'll grab that book as well. I'm assuming you're talking about the online cash games book, not one of his others? Yup that’s the one. His other books are pretty well regarded but if you’re mostly doing zone or just online 6 max in general this one will probably be good for you. He spends some chapters talking about setting up a HUD, which you won’t be doing on ignition but thinking about how he used the stats a HUD tracks will still be helpful and probably help you notice things about how people play.
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Feb 8, 2021 04:16
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Tetramin posted:Yup that’s the one. His other books are pretty well regarded but if you’re mostly doing zone or just online 6 max in general this one will probably be good for you. Excellent info, thanks again! I'll probably leave zone alone for now because it moves so quickly I can't really do anything but make decisions based on my dozen or so hands I like to play. I specifically chose Ignition for the lack of HUDs available. I was worried other folks would have too much of an advantage with that. I believe I've read that HUDs for Ignition exist but they don't work very well. Doesn't matter much anyhow, I'm running Linux and I use the web client.
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Feb 8, 2021 15:31
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knuthgrush posted:Excellent info, thanks again! sorry but huds for ignition work great
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Feb 9, 2021 03:20
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MY INEVITABLE DEBT posted:sorry but huds for ignition work great Good to know. Not like the HUDs will give them a massive advantage over me at the moment anyway. I'm still pretty awful at the game.
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Feb 9, 2021 03:22
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MY INEVITABLE DEBT posted:sorry but huds for ignition work great Oh huh. I tried using HEM on ignition several years ago and couldn’t get it working correctly. Cool to know
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Feb 9, 2021 17:12
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Tetramin posted:Oh huh. I tried using HEM on ignition several years ago and couldn’t get it working correctly. Cool to know You can use HEM with a program called Ignition Card Catcher
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Feb 9, 2021 18:22
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Well I considered another thread (I'm sure there's a "how to donate your money to other players" for beginners thread somewhere) but given how helpful you fine folks have been, I've got another idiot question: I cashed out of Ignition a few weeks ago since I was ahead and I thought I might come back and try to get better. Play a little more regularly, etc. I believe cash games are my best start for getting more serious about it so I don't have to try to learn the end-game of tournaments while still learning from my mistakes, so I'm looking at 0.02/0.05 cash NL. End goal here is just to be a more consistent winner, not quit my job. Last time I rode on $20 and did alright (ended up ahead over time either way). Should I drop $20 back in there to start with last time or should I throw $100 at it and consider it tuition. $100 would give me 20 max buy ins and I read in a couple of places that's a good amount to have for cash games. This is money I don't care about losing and would've spent on something else anyway. Going to try to track my P/L this time in a spreadsheet. I don't think I'll try to jump into any HUDs at the moment. I'm running Linux and that means I'd need a VM, a Windows license, a license for the HUD. All that overhead+expense just to get info about single games (since Ignition is "anonymous") seems not very useful at the moment.
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Feb 12, 2021 16:10
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Been playing a lot of $1/2 straddle with a sprinkling of .5/1 and 2/5 on pokernow. Venmo banking is definitely risky and I've seen a lot of people get burned, but generally by avoiding random HUs and playing with trusted regular hosts, I've never had a payment issue.
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Feb 12, 2021 18:56
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I just finished second in heads up sit and go and was drawn out on a few times and remembered the time Bill Fillmaff had to write an angry email to Lee Jones when he took a bad beat on Stars and realized LEE JONES IS AFFILIATED WITH GLOBAL so if you get drawn out on there and think "man I can't do anything about this" WRONG you can write Lee Jones there! Just figured I'd share this important information.
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Feb 14, 2021 20:15
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I’ve gone back over the past like 2 to 3 years to playing 2/5 to 5/10NL live. Usually in Vegas. Haven’t gone to Milwaukee much, which has the nearest live 2/5 game because who wants to drive to Milwaukee? The games were fairly soft but not near what happens in vegas. Was in vegas for the super bowl and I played some 1/3 with my buddy at the venetian. Game was fairly soft. Some talkative Brit kept trying to chat me up to get reads and then stared at me for like 30” then said “I can’t read you”. Lmao
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Feb 15, 2021 00:10
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About once a year I’ll still get an itch to play poker. I generally go, play 1/2 like a complete nit because I’m so out practice, either stack or get stacked, and call it a day. I’ve gotten the itch again and am thinking about giving a $125 buy in weekday tourney a shot in about a month. Any general advice? I played probably 25-50 small stakes (sub $5) tourneys pre-Black Friday and a few bar league ones and have binked a couple.
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Feb 16, 2021 05:53
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Decide before you go if you want to play to win or play to cash. The former usually requires some riskier plays like going in even if you know it's probably a 60/40 flip
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Feb 16, 2021 06:22
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Sentient Data posted:Decide before you go if you want to play to win or play to cash. The former usually requires some riskier plays like going in even if you know it's probably a 60/40 flip Thanks—that’s actually a good point I’d not thought about.
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Feb 16, 2021 06:40
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Sentient Data posted:Decide before you go if you want to play to win or play to cash. The former usually requires some riskier plays like going in even if you know it's probably a 60/40 flip this isnt really good advice. unless you're very close to the bubble, you are always playing to win unless you just like giving up money so you can secure some pennies
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Feb 16, 2021 09:32
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the only time I'm not on the gas near the bubble is if I'm a less than to average sized stack. I can't put pressure on people effectively and I'm just sort of stuck there; if I'm short, great, we're going real wide with our shoves and seeing if we can't get some uncontested pots or win a flip or two. if I've got a big stack, great, let's put the pressure on everyone else. when I don't have enough chips to get liberal with being active, be it so short that I'm either doubling or done or can make other stacks fear for their tourney life is when 'ok do I just see if I can't come out in the money and go from there' is when hang on to cash comes in to play. someone who does this for a living could probably answer better, though
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Feb 22, 2021 01:29
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maffew buildings posted:the only time I'm not on the gas near the bubble is if I'm a less than to average sized stack. I can't put pressure on people effectively and I'm just sort of stuck there; if I'm short, great, we're going real wide with our shoves and seeing if we can't get some uncontested pots or win a flip or two. if I've got a big stack, great, let's put the pressure on everyone else. when I don't have enough chips to get liberal with being active, be it so short that I'm either doubling or done or can make other stacks fear for their tourney life is when 'ok do I just see if I can't come out in the money and go from there' is when hang on to cash comes in to play. I'm not a tourney pro but I actually think you did a pretty good job of summing the general strategy with ICM considerations: small stacks want to get it in aggressively to try and not be the small stacks anymore, big stacks want to bully the medium stacks and sometimes knock small stacks out in the process, and medium stacks want to play as safe as possible
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Feb 22, 2021 01:45
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Yeah, that's a good general way of putting it. My earlier post was meant more about the mindset - playing when you only have the goal of making the bubble usually makes players way too timid, especially as the bubble nears. It's kind of the equivalent of playing with scared money in a cash game, it's a much larger leak than people tend to realize (even though fixing that leak can lead to higher variance)
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Feb 22, 2021 01:52
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Sentient Data posted:Yeah, that's a good general way of putting it. My earlier post was meant more about the mindset - playing when you only have the goal of making the bubble usually makes players way too timid, especially as the bubble nears. It's kind of the equivalent of playing with scared money in a cash game, it's a much larger leak than people tend to realize (even though fixing that leak can lead to higher variance) absolutely yeah
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Feb 22, 2021 01:53
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I’d also add that ICM factors are usually largest at the final table of an MTT, usually MUCH larger than the money bubble. It leads to really cool dynamics. On the money bubble you could potentially lose out on a min cash which is what, usually like 1.5-3 buy ins? Meanwhile at the final table if you have a large field the difference between say like 3rd and 5th place can sometimes be dozens to hundreds of buy ins. The same logic still holds: medium stacks are usually incentivized to play tight but also short stacks are as well, especially if there are other short stacks. Pay jumps are so large that it’s often the better EV play to try to ladder up rather than trying to win the tournament.
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Feb 22, 2021 02:35
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Getting a larger sample is cool for figuring out if you're too timid in to the bubble also. I had a phase of min cashes and after I got after it earlier that became lots more early busts and deeper runs and increased ROI.
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Feb 22, 2021 20:47
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Mind_Taker posted:Pay jumps are so large that it’s often the better EV play to try to ladder up rather than trying to win the tournament. Close, but it's slightly more nuanced. The EV is determined by ICM, so basically the chips you lose are worth more than the chips you gain. It doesn't necessarily mean that it's better to ladder up, but that's often how it plays out when you look at the math of a particular hand. Edit - we're pretty much saying the same thing. That being said, in any tournament you should always be playing to win. With variance being so high in tourneys, 1st place (obviously) is where you realize your ROI. This brings us back to pre-min cash levels - you should take shots at building a stack, especially early on, so that you can be a bully when the time comes. aksuur fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Mar 6, 2021 |
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Mar 6, 2021 03:15
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oh lord I'm about to have a dirtbag month with my BidenBux I can play both of the Sundays and the 6pm Tuesday for two weeks to get the bonu$$$ free buy-in 
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Mar 13, 2021 08:23
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