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CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher
AWD stickshift shitbox buddies

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CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

22 Eargesplitten posted:


Good job OP, now turbo swap it :getin:

Ohhhh I can tell you how exactly to do it annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd then OP will be Waaaaaaaaait I thought these cars were LEGO and I'll laugh and laugh and laugh about the little traps everywhere that makes it annoying as gently caress esp if you are trying to swap post MY97.

Just knowing the irritiations and also the changes in wiring on year models saves the irritation so it's a "Ask someone" to be pre-warned. Also a lot of the info on how to do it has left the Internet as it was on now dead forums.

quote:

strut tower braces
better brakes (rear discs for sure, possibly bigger fronts)
LSD rear
LSD front?
cage?
port and polish?

Front strut brace meant for any GC/GF/GD will work
Rear I think from memory is actualy compatible with Gen2 Forester and GD NOT GC
Brakes are a no brainer - GD 4 pots / rear 2 pots. Watch what hubs you use as ABS tone rings make for some differences if you switch hubs. Shouldnt need to, that is all LEGO in ease to swap. GD WRX brakes were on a car 200 kgs heavier so you will have a car that *really* wants to stop and will keep stopping.

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher
4mm philips head screwdriver and you knock the pin out on the reverse side to the champher on the hole the pin goes through.

Installation it's same 4mm screwdriver and knock it in from the champher side.

That'll make it nice and easy

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher
So it is the hub you want to remove to deal with the wheel bearings? It's not coming off while the knuckle is in the car, it *has* to come out

Knuckle in the freezer and let it sit for a day to get completely cold. Heating it will not work - the metal is *expanding* into each other and making it tighter, you want it to contract. Just surface chilling will not work, you need everything to contract properly. Dry ice bath isnt a bad idea..... and you def need a press still.

The main reason why the driveshaft sticks in the splines is over tightening to get rid of wheelbearing slop.

Also when you remove the ball joint for the steering arm, get a hammer and smack the sides of where the ball joints sits - this shocks the taper to release.

Also to make the wheel bearing install easier, put the hub in a hot water bath and let it soak. That expands the hub so that the wheel bearings go in easier.

Edit : What the... STR you heated the knuckle or hub to red hot?!?!?!

CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 12:28 on Apr 4, 2021

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

OMGVBFLOL posted:



no more steampunk sound effects when turning. yay!

HAHAHAH LOL what on earth are the pants that you are wearing??

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher
Hey dont get me wrong, I'm not sayign it bad - I'm more highly amused and think it's cool as hell to be working on cars in PJ's :D

The PJ's I wear in the garage aren't half as cool as those

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CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

OMGVBFLOL posted:

i love myself a good set of dr seuss pjs

OMG they are too! This thread just keep getting better :D

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