Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

So jealous. The cheapest running/driving Subaru popping up locally is usually around $3k, and if you want 3 pedals that price goes up real quick.. no matter how lovely it is.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

OMGVBFLOL posted:

the wiper fluid line is on the other side, and i need some kind of double-male connector to patch it, and god knows where i'll find that

https://www.amazon.com/Windshield-Washer-Connector-OTUAYAUTO-Universal/dp/B07MZQY32N

You may be able to find a single one in the Help! section of a parts store.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

That knowledge is widely available on the internet, but widely disbelieved too - the first link that comes up when I google "spark plug anti seize" is this NGK link. It's essentially the same reason you don't oil head bolts before torquing them, you wind up massively overtorquing them. Same with... pretty much any other fastener.

totalnewbie is still here BTW, he's moved on to sensors (NTK division) IIRC. Mostly see him in the stupid questions thread.

That said, it sounds like OP threw dielectric grease in the plug wire boots, which is something you should do. Helps keep valve cover leaks from causing misfires, also keeps the boots from getting stuck to the plugs.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Mar 24, 2021

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Voltage posted:

Well gently caress me, I've put anti seize on the spark plugs of the last ~12 cars I've had - whoops! I had no idea they were coated, but is it all brands or just NGK? I anti seize the poo poo out of most poo poo thats exposed (northeast lol) but I guess it wouldn't matter as much on plugs?

Any plug that's not black is already coated. So basically everything except lawn mower plugs and the absolute cheapest copper plugs you can buy.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Wait, these have aluminum heads? :downsgun:

I've never torn into an EJ beyond spark plugs....

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

OMGVBFLOL posted:

i'm definitely still changing the axle since that came out of the hub. but i can't see any way to press the hub out with the tools I have, so as I see it my options are to pull the knuckle with the hub still in it and either 1) find someone with a hydraulic press and try that, or 2) scrap the whole assembly and buy a new hub and knuckle. either way i'd have to get a front end alignment afterword so my hopes of doing this without touching the alignment points may be dashed.

any advice? I've tappytapped all over the knuckle and hub with a ballpeen hammer, i've tried wedging a chisel into the gap between the hub and knuckle, i've tried hammering on the back side of the hub with an impact socket as the pushing tool, none of that's seemed to knock it loose. I'm going to keep hitting it with deep creep every few hours and try the slide hammer again tomorrow, maybe fog the inside of the hub with an upside-down can of duster to chill it in the hopes of shrinking it a bit, but beyond that I'm out of ideas for how to break this loose with the knuckle still on the car

I had to pull the entire knuckle, after a good 10 minutes with an air chisel didn't even budge it. We used the blue tip wrench (oxy/acet torch) generously while it was in a 20 ton press (bent the press too). When we were about to give up, we heard a gunshot. So we thought. It was the axle popping out of the loving hub. There was no rust visible either, the stub looked brand new. It was just stubborn as hell.

I... should replace that hub and wheel bearing eventually. :downs: The hub is warped after that (TBH it may have been warped before we heated it red hot), bearing is a little noisy too. :v: (surprisingly no play though) The roll pin came right out though, and the axle slid right off of the diff stub. I suspect the RF suspension was replaced as a complete assembly (including the axle); the car has a bit of damage on that side.

You can get away without an alignment immediately so long as you mark the cam bolt's position when you unbolt the knuckle, but you'll need one sooner rather than later. That's assuming you don't replace the knuckle anyway.

If that all fails, junkyard the knuckle (and take the axle with it if the boots aren't split and the far inner part is green - that'd be an original Subaru axle), don't buy this poo poo new. Not worth it on an old beater. Also see if there's a DIY shop in your area, if there is they'll probably have an air chisel on hand, and you can rent a bay/tools by the hour usually. That USUALLY pops a stubborn one out (it didn't in my case, but hey...).

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

The hub. Not my idea, the owner of the DIY shop I was using did that. It did finally get the drat axle to pop out...

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

The Prius will be faster.

My 03 OBW has a supposed 1/4 mile time in the 19s. And don't dump the clutch on a stock AWD Subaru unless you really like expensive noises.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply