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Idlewild_ posted:Opinions of the crowd? I would at a minimum swap the bright white for ivory, which won't clash so much with the wall and trim and is readily available at your preferred big box for the same low price. It also won't look mismatched the way it does now. You can go antique if you want but cheap antique-style stuff does tend to look tacky, good antique-style stuff is expensive, and real antiques are both expensive and hard to find plus you have all the problems that come with putting that stuff in your electric. Also kill your parents(' design sense.) Creating a comfortable environment that supports your desired use of the room is part of the function of home furnishings.
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Jan 20, 2021 18:03
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I like the first one, i think the dark pattern makes that wall look tied together despite being broken up by the divider in a way that the second mock-up doesn’t have. The second one feels a little more like something i might see in a flip.
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Feb 13, 2021 10:16
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bird with big dick posted:kitchen organization Other ideas: Move the half-bath door per your suggestion, move the washer/dryer into the nook next to the linen closet, knock down that wall and claim the space for the kitchen Move the sink (and dishwasher if you have one) into new counters in the breakfast nook to create a "cleaning up zone", use the island for cabinets and a food prep area It's not clear how much of this you're already doing or what's possible, but find ways to make use of vertical space and cabinet space - pegboards on walls, a hanging pot rack over the island, pull-out pantry shelving sideboard/bar cart in the dining area to move dishware/cutlery/stemware out of the kitchen, recovering a little more space for gadgets or utensils
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Mar 14, 2021 16:44
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Yooper posted:21 X 28, with the large window being on the 28' wall. Yes, it would have the three sconces, two replacement boob lights, and the ceiling fan. Maybe a floor light down the road as well. What are you planning to use this room for? That’s going to be a big factor as a work area, reading space, or tv watching space all need different kinds of lighting anyway from the pic you posted there’s a boob light (flush mount) in an area with a low ceiling that’s further lowered and divided by beams. That’s basically guaranteed to create weird, uncomfortable shadows and uneven lighting. I’d take it out entirely and add a couple more wall sconces instead. Ideally i’d have them evenly spaced around the perimeter of that half of the room for nice even area lighting, and then add a floor lamp or table lamp on an end table next to a couch to provide some spot lighting for reading. If this is going to be a work area you could do cans instead but i think they’d be too harsh for a cozy space like that, but it depends how you want to use the room. For the other half of the room with a higher ceiling, you could add another flush mount if you’re into that, or alternatively 9ft is high enough to hang some pendants off a track which i think is a really nice solution for a room with high ceilings. You get very even, bright light from 360° sources hanging in space and it feels much less impersonal than a high up flush mount or can light. You probably won’t need much more if you go this route but you could certainly add a couple wall sconces or floor lights as an accent.
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Jun 6, 2021 15:07
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Yooper posted:It's a general purpose entry / living room. The current boob lights do make weird light and we really haven't decided what to do in that area. Possibly a couch/reading nook, but I'm not really sure to be honest. We've only been in the place for 3 months. I like the pendant idea, we have a ceiling fan in there now but the light isn't great out of it. Gotcha. At least from a lighting perspective i think it makes sense to treat it as two separate rooms instead of one, since the different ceiling heights really call for different treatments. You could even divide the space physically with a bookcase, curtains, or movable divider but there are ways to make the lighting work without doing that. If you want the room/s to be multipurpose it makes sense to add more light than you think you’ll really need and then have some way to turn it down when you’re in relax mode; you can do this with dimmers, or by having wall and ceiling lights on different circuits, or go all in on smart lighting. I’ve got hue bulbs in a few rooms for this and while i wouldn’t miss color lighting, it’s really nice to be able to change the white temperature, especially while working from home. Warm white or even soft white really bugs me during the day, especially if i’m using it to supplement natural light from a window, but having daylight bulbs on when you’re trying to unwind at night isn’t ideal either.
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Jun 6, 2021 15:46
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Vegetable posted:We're moving into a new home where the living room is like 16' x 13 (includes a staircase) and the bedroom's 10' x 12'. For a bedroom that size, a pair of table lamps on the nightstands and a floor lamp with one or two bulbs would work fine. If you dress in there a lighted mirror might be good too. My bedroom is bigger (12x16) and I have two table lamps, an overhead fixture with two bulbs, and a desk lamp, which is plenty of light. The trick is to use smart bulbs with a remote switch so everything comes on together. I think cans would be pretty impersonal and unpleasant in a bedroom, but uneven lighting, especially single point source lighting, makes a room uncomfortable to be in for me so I sympathize with what your partner wants. For the living room, I would try to have a mix of floor lamps, table lamps, and maybe wall sconces or pendant lamps depending on how high the ceilings are. You could use cans but if the ceilings are low you will need a lot of them to get even light. If the ceilings are high it doesn’t matter so much. It’s useful to think about task vs ambient vs accent lighting here. Part of what’s not great about cans is they mostly throw light down, which is good if you want to look at things which are on counters or work surfaces but less good if you want to look at things on walls or in your hands. It especially sucks if you want to recline or lay back, because the glare will be right in your eyes, which is why I wouldn’t want them in the bedroom.
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Aug 4, 2021 15:13
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Wallet posted:Speaking of lights, I have a few rooms with an overhead light on a switch and then some number of lamps that are plugged into unswitched outlets that would be nice to control with a normal wall switch. I see a ton of wireless light switches out there but it's hard to know which ones are garbage, and I also haven't been able to find any hybrids but I might just be searching for the wrong poo poo. I don't have any interest in using a bunch of smart bulbs unless that's my only option. Anyone have any recommendations? I’m using hue smart bulbs for this, with their stick-on remote wall switch, but it would be cool if there was a wired wall switch replacement or cover for the rooms that haven’t been smartified yet If you just want to switch the lamps, you can get wifi-controlled plugs which you can switch remotely
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Aug 5, 2021 15:10
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Wallet posted:I could do that myself but I don't actually want the rest of the outlets on the switch, I just want the lamps on it. It's probably easier to just replace all of the bulbs with smart ones and get a compatible switch but I find something about the idea of light bulbs with networking revolting. https://youtu.be/OgwSCcUDSaI
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Aug 6, 2021 04:29
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Wallet posted:I had not considered this. That would actually work! Bear in mind i’m not an electrician, that was the first video in the search on youtube, don’t burn your house down, etc. I’ve lived in apartments with outlets that worked like that though so it is possible
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Aug 6, 2021 14:10
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MetaJew posted:TL;DR What do I do here to make my livingroom look good, and be a practical space? Have you considered: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/cat/tv-media-storage-14885/ I like combos that put some shelves or cabinets above the tv to give you extra storage
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Aug 6, 2021 14:19
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MetaJew posted:Yeah low back stools are a good start since they would tuck away under the counter. Some Ikea stuff is more flimsy, some is less. Hemnes is solid pine, fjallbo is steel and solid wood. You're right that none of it is heirloom quality but you can get at least a few years out of it while you save up for/decide on longer term stuff, especially if you build it well (it's not called for in the instructions, but a lot of pieces can be glued for extra rigidity) and use appropriate fasteners to fix it to the wall. Re: layout: swap the positions of the dining table and tv/couch complex. The tv area will feel cozy instead of cramped since it's in a nook instead of a travel area, and the dining table will have room to breathe. Or get rid of the dining table altogether since you have your bar seating and enjoy having some open space, which I guarantee will make your house feel much larger.
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Aug 6, 2021 19:24
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Lawen posted:More lighting talk. If you have never heard of ambient, task, and accent lighting before, start by reading this article or just googling it. Also keep in mind that "lumen" just refers to the amount of light output by a source but doesn't tell you anything about how even that light is, or what direction it's throwing it in. A spotlight and a wide angle light might have the same lumen value but will be perceived differently; the spotlight will be brighter but less even. This is important for recessed cans because even with a very wide beam angle for a can is around 90 degrees; meanwhile an incandescent bulb puts out close to 360 degrees of light. LED bulbs aren't as good as incandescents in this one specific measure but often have beam angles around 180 degrees. I found a bog standard LED GU10 bulb at HD which is rated for 450 lumens, so I'll use that as a starting figure and say your old office had 3500-4500 lumens. This blog post suggests 50-75 lumens/sqft for "offices: reading and writing" or 20-50 for "offices: rooms with computers"; 4000 lumens for your 135 sqft new office gives you 30 lumens/sqft, in the middle of the "room with computers" range. Those cans you linked are up to 3000 lumens each so even 2 would be substantially more light than you had before. I don't suggest using 2 recessed cans in any room, since even with a wide throw they won't light the walls/ceiling very well and they will cast noticeable shadows, which will make the lighting feel uneven. This is the big drawback to having fewer bigger lights btw, the worst example being having one very bright light in the middle of a room casting lots of shadows everywhere and failing to light the corners. On the other hand having too many small lights also kind of sucks because you're much more likely to have one in your line of sight at any given time and the glare gets annoying. It's ok if they're candle-level lights but lighting a room with just candles is its own challenge. Having too many small recessed cans also tends to make the ceiling look like it has a disfiguring disease. If you still want cans I might go with 4 or 6 of these guys, rated 700 lumens, with a desk lamp anywhere you need additional lighting for reading or writing. Someone in the Home Zone thread can probably tell you everything you need to know about installation. Cans are definitely not the only way to get even and consistent lighting, though. The simplest (and cheapest) thing to do is just put a regular rear end floor or table lamp in each corner. Good quality a19/e26 LED bulbs are usually 600-800 lumens so one in each corner will give you a similar result to a 2x2 grid of cans (except the light will be pointed up at the ceiling and reflect back down, instead of pointing straight down and pooling under the cans, which will give you more even light overall.) You can also use wall sconces to save some floor space if that's a concern.
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Aug 19, 2021 16:15
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nashona posted:I have a pair of closets in one of our bedrooms and I'm stumped on how to configure them. I’d put a narrow dresser in the back, modifying it if necessary to fit under the sloped roof, then install a regular closet rod in the remaining space and add whichever hang-on-door shoe storage solution looks good to you. Bags can hang from the closet rod or you can put a rolling cart on the floor in front of the dresser. If you’re handy, or willing to spend money on someone who is, I’d consider opening up the back wall and rebuilding it at a more convenient depth with a knee wall cabinet to make better use of the space under the slope. Speaking of: what’s behind the slope? What’s to the left and right of the closet, and where are they in relation to each other? If the closet is cut into otherwise empty space under the rafters, you can potentially open that up and give yourself a lot more closet space.
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Aug 30, 2021 02:57
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Ornery and Hornery posted:See that’s what I originally thought but a bunch of the actual material, expensive furnitures I’ve come across are kind of poo poo. No couch is good unless it’s constructed out of solid dimensional lumber and, at minimum, sinuous springs, with a thick layer of high-quality foam on top and decent upholstery; and those are too bulky to ship internationally. Therefore, no internet couch factory builds decent couches, except for custom places where you have talk to or at least email an actual human being and which do their manufacturing in the US, probably north carolina for historical reasons (offer valid in lower 48 only). Flat pack couches can simply not ever be comfortable, because physics. They just can’t be built solid enough to support a human body in a sitting position.
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Aug 6, 2022 07:03
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KillHour posted:Why would a couch not be able to ship fully assembled? That's just silly. Obviously, it's more expensive to ship an assembled couch than a flat pack piece of garbage, but places do it just fine. The Luonto I just bought is solid as gently caress. i haven’t heard of this brand but i found a spec sheet for one of their models online, and the dimensions say it’s less than 90cm tall, with the backrest only 40cm, and the arms a pitiful 13cm. So that’s how they ship it internationally - it’s a couch for looking at, and they sliced off all the parts that distinguish it from a particularly skinny mattress, and which support the seated human body. That way you can still pack enough into a container to make it economical.
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Aug 6, 2022 13:56
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KillHour posted:The Halti sectional I bought was so big that I had to take doors off the hinges so the delivery guys could physically get it in the room it went in. And the head rests are low for form but pivot up and lock in place to give you a full-size back rest. i’m going to level with you: that thing looks wildly uncomfortable. it sounds like you’re happy with it but i’ve never sat on couch with that back angle that was comfortable for longer than about 15 minutes. it looks like it was designed first to ship economically, second to look good in the showroom, and then they did their best to make the horrible design they came up with comfortable with construction and materials but you can’t put lipstick on a pig. we’re taking past each other a little bit so here’s what i mean about being designed for shipping: the back and sides are completely vertical. the arms, on the models that have them, are less than half the the height of the backs, which are already short, so you can ship two together by flipping one over and stacking them. I bet the packed dimensions also line up nicely with the interior dimensions of a container, but that’s less important. i don’t mean a good couch is bulky because it has certain dimensions, i mean it’s bulky in that it doesn’t pack well; it spills out of its dimensions with things like a sloped back, and armrests that roll over to the outside of the arms; stuff that doesn’t really increase the dimensions but vastly increases the comfort. The human body is difficult to measure and so should be furniture. Your couch, by contrast, is not bulky. It fills up its dimensions exactly and stops there, because it has to for them to get four more couches into the container. it’s cost engineering.
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Aug 6, 2022 14:38
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KillHour posted:Also, I don't usually actually sit on couches - I lie down on them, and this is a sleeper so I can do that easily. ok, it makes sense how you could think it’s comfortable now e: i like to sit upright on a couch, and i think that style of couch is uncomfortable because it doesn’t offer good back support. low back support only is fine in chairs where the back is relatively vertical, and couches with sloped backs are fine if they’re tall enough to support the neck and shoulder blades, but low couches with sloped backs (the increasingly ubiquitous modern style) are bad - for all body types and sizes when i complained about the straight back i was actually referring to the outer back, the part which would go against the wall. with good couches the slope of the back is close to the slope of the back cushion and you get comfortable support and padding all the way up. with straight back couches you typically get a wedge shaped cushion which is too firm at the top and too soft at the lumbar region, so you can’t really lean back and you can’t really sit upright. it just sucks out loud. I don’t think that gimmicky headrest would fix any of this and it sounds like you don’t either since you say you usually don’t use it that way hypnophant fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Aug 6, 2022 |
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Aug 6, 2022 17:56
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i edited my post to try to be a bit less snarky but man those photos just illustrate what i mean - you have the gimmick headrest mechanism when you could have just built the couch with a comfortable, functioning backrest in the first place, and in the long run you have less padding and less support. it also sounds like the seat cushion isn’t all that at supportive unless you’re reclining which is another no from me. a good couch is comfortable sitting upright with your feet flat on the floor, a couch that you have to slouch to get comfortable in isn’t a comfortable couch
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Aug 6, 2022 18:28
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KillHour posted:Okay so that's the miscommunication. I'll address this. The couch doesn't have a wedge shaped cushion to save money. I can reach my hand back there and feel that the frame slopes with the back of the couch. It's very supportive. It just has the straight back for looks (I imagine it was more expensive to do it that way since they had to make a trapezoidal frame). all this stuff you’re claiming as a positive just sounds to me like a bunch of gimmicky stuff to cover up the fundamental unfitness of the design. i don’t want to adjust all my couch cushions every time i sit down like i adjust a car seat. i want the couch to be in one configuration that is always comfortable, for a wide range of bodies, in a range of seating positions including fully upright. for the record i also think the overstuffed reclining theater sofas are dogshit, but the classic high-back roll-arm sofa - high enough to sit fully upright and still rest your head on the cushion, which your photo shows you can’t do - has never been improved on and the proliferation of uncomfortably low-back modern sofas from overseas is purely because they’re cheaper to ship than the better design. the “aesthetic” is just marketing to sell you an uncomfortable couch
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Aug 6, 2022 18:41
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3D Megadoodoo posted:Bent plywood is the material of the gods. best i can do is a poang e: jesus, that aalto is a $350 three-legged stool hypnophant fucked around with this message at 14:18 on Aug 8, 2022 |
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Aug 8, 2022 14:15
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I'm open to feedback, opinions, ideas I haven't considered, etc. Wallpaper (whether actually paper or fabric, which I don’t understand how it’s functionally any different than paper) gets my vote. Anything very modern will clash with the nice wood trim imo, which rules out shadow lines, 3d tiles, or wood panels. Stick with what’s period-appropriate. Panels would arguably be ok too, but I think they’d look a little out-of-place if you only do the stairway. You can do a chair rail with wallpaper above and panels below if you think the full wallpaper wall would be too much (like in a bunch of pictures here). It’s a classic look, and you can diy it on the cheap if you’re reasonably handy and own a miter saw. Definitely also replace the boob light! That’s on the list right? Wall sconces would be an excellent choice which would also help add some texture, though maybe only at the bottom of the stairs since I don’t think that window leaves you enough room for one at the top landing.
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Nov 9, 2022 04:07
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Agree that going too modern will clash. I did consider a chair rail, and I'm capable of diying that. What gives me pause about that is that it would be the only spot in the house with that treatment. That would be sort of odd, right? Like you'll have this living room with multiple chairs that won't have a chair rail, then you'll walk into a stairwell that has them? What do you think? I think it depends on the layout of the house, but it wouldn’t be too jarring as long as you can find an unobtrusive spot to transition it. It might look a little odd if you just stop on corner or something, but if you have some other piece of trim to butt up against like a doorway, cased entryway, or maybe even a corner closet or something it’ll be ok. I wouldn’t worry about other rooms - I doubt most people will even notice. Worst case, if it does make it seem like a chair rail is “missing” from another room, you can just add one more chair rail
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Nov 9, 2022 18:30
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The Wonder Weapon posted:That's what I'm asking I guess; is there appearance-grade plywood I'm looking for here? you can potentially kerf bend it, depending on how you’re planning to finish it. cabinet grade or finish grade plywood is what you want. be prepared to shell out.
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Nov 10, 2022 02:20
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net work error posted:I'm looking for some home decor items and wanted to look somewhere besides the typical Target, Pottery Barn, etc kinds of places. I was looking at Etsy but didn't quite find what I was looking for. Are there any other home decor sites that are recommended to browse through? I don’t know about bowls specifically but just kind of in general, ikea or the container store at the middle-end and like dwr and bludot at the high end will tend to cover a lot of weird stuff like this
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Jan 17, 2023 21:24
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I kind of feel like you either do have leather wingbacks and wood paneling, and you haven’t updated the vibe at all, or you don’t have those things and you’ve lost the vibe entirely. The reason there isn’t a contemporary interpretation is because, well, it’s not a contemporary concept. The whole idea of a gentleman’s lounge leans into traditionalism (and a bygone era of traditional sexism) on the other hand it would not be so hard to work in neon and smoked glass to the aesthetic, which would def help kill the period piece feel if that’s your objection. maybe some of those nanoleaf panels on the walls
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Mar 25, 2023 19:08
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Anne Whateley posted:I agree it came from a sexist, racist period, but everyone loves mcm so I don’t think that’s inherently a disqualifier, as long as what you like is the wood paneling and comfortable chesterfields rather than phrenology sculptures and banning women I didn’t mean to imply this at all fwiw, i think it’s a pretty great aesthetic. I only wanted to point out there are some defining elements which you can’t get rid of without getting out of the style entirely
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Mar 25, 2023 23:45
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Pollyanna posted:I'm looking to upgrade my bedframe. I'm considering wood next - I don't like metal frames, and my old Zinus fabric-lined bedframe has gotten pretty ratty and hasn't stood up against my cat's claws. Slats, not boxsprings. I'm most concerned about durability and longevity, if I buy a bedframe I want it to last at least five years or so. Otherwise not sure what to look for in wood bedframes, or what brands to consider. Anything in particular I want to select for? Material, build type, etc.? I like the kdframes platform beds that wirecutter recommends. They're cheap and look it, but you could dress it up a bit with paint or stain. If you want something more aesthetic out of the box, they also have some modern recommendations. Both pages have write-ups about what to look for. Also, if you find something secondhand/local, know that you can get a slat replacement for a box spring from zinus and probably a thousand other interchangeable amazon brands, so you aren't limited to stuff that's built with slats.
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Jul 27, 2023 17:40
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Pollyanna posted:The Thuma is speaking to me, but I want a headboard and it’s like an extra $700. Thuma uses rubberwood (sometimes called parawood) for their frame and headboard. Rubberwood is the wood of rubber trees from Malaysia, which produce natural latex for a fixed part of their life cycle (iirc it's 30 years) after which they are no longer economical and are disposed of. This used to be by burning since the wood was considered junk; something about it being particularly susceptible to insects and fungus. Nowadays rubberwood gets a protective chemical treatment so it can be used in furniture. It's often presented as a "green" option since it's using up ex-plantation trees which would otherwise be burned - Thuma themselves call it an "upcycled" wood, though they don't seem to advertise the use of rubberwood any more. It whiffs of greenwashing to me but it's probably at least as green as using normal industrial hardwood so it's not really a negative. The bigger problem I have with them is that I don't think they're being up front about what you're getting. There's nothing wrong with parawood and no reason to doubt its durability, but it's a cheap, recycled product, not a premium hardwood like oak or walnut, and IMO should be priced accordingly - more like the poplar KD frames uses. Cf this casper bed which is solid oak (probably red oak, but still nicer than parawood) and is hundreds of dollars cheaper. If you really like the design of the Thuma, or you value being able to set it up and knock it down very easily, then go for it - but just be aware of what you're buying.
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Jul 28, 2023 14:00
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Honestly though if the Thuma headboard is banger quality then I might be willing to splurge.
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Pollyanna posted:Yeah, that’s my concern. It’s pretty overpriced. I like the joinery aspect of it, but it’s not like I can’t handle some assembly, so If all else fails and don't you mind some extremely simple diy, or know an ok handyman, you can always attach a headboard to the wall, using a french cleat or something, so in that sense you can use any headboard with any frame. Otherwise, it depends how the headboard and frame are set up. If you buy a separate headboard at a furniture store it'll probably come with metal legs which you can bolt or otherwise attach to your frame. The old-school metal folding frames which are designed to be used with boxsprings often come with studs for this purpose. If you buy a headboard from Thuma or whatever furniture company, though, it won't necessarily be designed that way, so you can't count on mixing and matching out of the box.
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Jul 28, 2023 15:53
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This helps me figure out price points per material - thank you!
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I'd much rather have rubberwood than that chopped up mess of laminated shorts the silk and snow one is made of. There's nothing at all wrong with rubberwood. It's heavy and reasonably strong and takes stain nicely. Sure it's not especially fancy, but at your price point fancy isn't really an option. At that price, walnut veneer over oak is my guess Pollyanna posted:Gotcha, thanks! Had no idea you could attach headboards to the wall. Maybe if I ever buy property… I agree with Kaiser's take on the glued-together scraps; I don't personally like the look, and I kind of think it's bullshit to even call it "solid wood" when it's so clearly not. At the same price i'd probably take the rubberwood. Acacia (like teak) is good for outdoor furniture because it's moisture- and rot-resistant, but it's not really fancier than rubberwood for indoor stuff unless you get a big live edge slab or something. The silk and snow piece definitely feels like a closer to fair price than the thuma, even though I personally wouldn't be interested. Just one point I'll make about the joinery. Check out this picture from Silk and Snow's website, although you can see the same thing in Thuma's product shots:  See how the tops of the joints don't quite line up with the rails, and there's an uneven gap in the seams? That poo poo would drive me crazy - it looks so sloppy. It's the work of a minute or two to sand that joint flush, but only if you test fit the pieces together at the factory before staining. Now maybe that wouldn't bother you - I'm not necessarily saying it should - but here's what Silk and Snow themselves say about their craftsmanship: quote:Quality Craftsmanship If I'm gonna be picky - it's perfectly possible to get that joint smooth, even on mass produced, mostly-machined stuff. The casper bed I linked before is a good example - the join between the leg and the rails has a nice even shadow line, which is a fine choice to hide some slight unevenness in your tolerances, and the top is level. If you're spending a thousand bucks on a piece of furniture, it's not too much to ask for basic stuff like the joints lining up. (Please note I mean no offense to the illustrious craftspeople of Vietnam - this is a failure of the production process, not the individuals building the furniture. I am sure they would take the extra time if it were up to them.) hypnophant fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Jul 28, 2023 |
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Jul 28, 2023 17:36
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Pollyanna posted:Orrrrrr I could go whole hog and get Amish-made. https://www.stickley.com/pages/bedroom
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Jul 29, 2023 02:06
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How big a tv are you planning on? 8' is a normal distance for a normal-size (65") 4k tv. If you want to sit 14' away you will want a 100" mega-tv or a projector link with recommended distances Personally I'd do Anne's layout but push the sectional to the left and put two armchairs facing each other over a chessboard in front of the fireplace but it's maybe too cute. Or if money's no object and you don't want the tv to be the centerpiece (and, honestly, dominate the room, if you get one sized appropriately for that room) get a giant custom u-shape sectional facing the window and put a smallish tv in the top right corner at an angle. It depends what you mean by "we wish to entertain" - if you mean host football parties then you want the tv to be the centerpiece, if it's cocktail parties or board game nights then that's too much tv imo
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Aug 12, 2023 01:25
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smoobles posted:Real question: what kind of colors would you go for in a bright, creative workspace? I feel like yellows or greens make sense. What are you using the workspace for? if you're painting or doing something where you need the color to be accurate, I'd stick to a bright white for the walls. Large areas of bright color can reflect onto your work, distorting the appearance of your paint. Instead, add small amounts of color with plants, furnishings, etc. Otherwise I agree with what distortion park said wrt lighting and furniture. An ample work surface and well-organized storage are necessities, as is good lighting. Natural light is great but you may not have as much as you want, or you may want to work in there when it's overcast, rainy, or night. Cans are a good solution for a workspace, and you may want to add a desk lamp or two to avoid shadows on your work surface. If you have a dark corner in the room, put a floor lamp or table lamp in it. Pay attention to the temperature of your lighting as well, especially if you care about accurate colors - warm white will make things look distorted, so choose daylight (5K) lighting instead, and ideally make sure the bulbs you're using have 95+ CRI. If you're not working with colors then you can do whatever you want. I'd find 3D's all-red super-saturated study more distracting than energizing, but I know it works for some. Likewise some people really hate daylight bulbs - they're almost always the wrong choice for a living room or bedroom but some people don't like them anywhere, and if you're one of those then obviously go with what makes you comfortable.
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Oct 26, 2023 16:11
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Imo, the core concept to learn is light layering, but I don’t have an in-depth resource to share. My particular strong opinion is that downlights should never be used anywhere except work spaces, i.e., kitchens, laundry rooms, garages, or actual workshops. You’ll note that the only examples at that link which use downlighting are kitchens and an office. They’re particularly bad in bedrooms - no one wants to be lie down in bed and glance up into a blinding ceiling light. The pro move is a bunch of table and floor lamps, possibly with flood or spotlights to wash a wall or highlight art pieces. Put a lamp in every corner of the room and a reading light at your favorite end of the sofa, desk lamp on your desk, arco over the dining table (kidding) etc. Flush mounts are also very useful if you have low ceilings, so long as you don’t get boob lights and it’s not the only light source in the room. If you have the ceiling height for a chandelier, even better.
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Nov 6, 2023 19:04
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How much cheaper is it to put in cans than run some extra outlets Good floor lamps are hard to find but I’m a fan of this ikea guy. I don’t own one but it looks quite sturdy in person. You want a floor lamp to have quite a heavy base, and ideally a one-piece pole, both of which drive up the price, or the tripod style are usually ok. Table lamps are easier, which means cheap table lamps are usually fine and you can find lots of fun designs. I prefer lamps which take regular bulbs, since you can put a smart bulb in them and control them all from a single switch.
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Nov 6, 2023 19:19
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toplitzin posted:Here's the main living area of the house, some of my scale is probably off (in terms of fan/ceiling light location) For the den, you could get away with a couple of these or any comparable lamp behind the sofa and some small table lamps on the media console. I think these are very friendly, but any similar small frosted or shaded lamp would help. Alternatively (or additionally) you could use light strip to bias light the tv. The corner uplighters don't seem to be doing much of anything; they're too close to the ceiling and too deep into the corner, so the light doesn't spread around enough. If you can't put actual floor lamps in those corners, wall sconces would be a better choice. Put them around eye height a few feet in from the corners for best effect. For the living room, hear me out: I think you should put in track lighting. Put a big L-shaped track on the ceiling roughly following the back of the sectional and use spots and floods to both wash and highlight the art on the walls. Maybe point a couple low-wattage spots at the couch from over the shoulder for reading lights. You can get extension rods for track heads, which would be good to bring the reading lights a little closer, but obviously don't put a light anywhere someone might bump into it. Also for sure put a table lamp on the kallax. Use a portable lamp, or a regular lamp with a cord cover to the wall outlet.
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Nov 7, 2023 22:20
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yeah that's a semi-flush mount light with a diffuser, very much not the same thing as ceiling cans. I could have been more specific but flush or semi-flush lights are fine anywhere.
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Nov 13, 2023 21:17
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bennyfactor posted:Okay, please do not make me a Doom / Grover kitchen, but here are the measurements. The plumbing is more or less centered under the windows on the west (bottom) wall. We would like a double bowl sink, and have a normal width conventional range already (free from some friends that are remodeling their already much nicer kitchen into something high-end). Here's what I came up with using ikea's tool (https://kitchen.planner.ikea.com/us/en/planner/?startFromScratch=true):  everything is standard size, 24" depth cabinets, with a 30" range on the left, double bowl sink and dishwasher, and a counter depth ikea fridge at the top right, but you would have enough room to put a french door fridge if you want one. Two large base cabinets here give you a lot of storage space and counter space - i used ikea's 36" double drawer cabinets since door cabinets aren't great ergonomically or for organization, but this is personal preference. Then I used pullout corner cabinets on both sides of the sink/dishwasher and another drawer/shelf unit next to the range. I think you'd be extremely lucky to find pullout corner cabinets at restore; imo it would be worth paying for ikea units here, but if you're going with secondhand for everything else you might end up DIYing or paying for custom work to fit them in. I didn't add any top storage but you could put a few upper cabinets above the range; personally i'd just have a wall-mounted range hood. Instead, put a pegboard here and opposite for your batterie de cuisine.  Another layout, same appliances. I don't like this one as much since i think the fridge will block too much light from the big window, but if you can't find/don't want to pay for pullout cabinets, this one will give you nearly as much storage space without them. It also makes it a bit more useful to fit in upper cabinets along the right wall on either side of the window. Neither of these layouts do anything with the top right corner space. I think it's a terrible place for the fridge; you want to keep the major appliances fairly close to one another, and 15 feet is too far away. If you want to make it useful, you could fit a washer/dryer in there, either by stacking them or using 24" units side by side. You could also look for a free-standing antique hutch, china cabinet, or pantry, which would be a nice traditional-home touch. or just add a small desk, cafe table, chest freezer, or some plants.
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Nov 25, 2023 02:41
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bennyfactor posted:I very much appreciate this. I also used the ikea kitchen thing to make the floorplan, there are just so many options it's overwhelming to start with a blank slate. Only one issue with your suggestions, though: it looks like somehow either my drawing or your drawing turned the doorway to the dining room (right side, south wall) into a window. So, probably can't put a sink there. That is also part of the problem I have for imagining the space: every wall except the wall with the big window and the sink plumbing has a door/doorway in it, and the door is part of the main trafficway of the house. I did misread that, makes it a bit trickier. Maybe something like this would work for you:  It's harder to fit in storage space in this layout so the fridge and pantry go back in the upper corner. A free-standing island or cart nearby gives you someplace to pull food to and give some extra counter space for when you need it, and it shouldn't get in the way of traffic. The work triangle isn't ideal but you avoid having too much back and forth, which should keep it somewhat efficient. This is basically the only layout I'd be happy with in this kitchen - you can tweak the dimensions on some things, but I wouldn't put the range anywhere else in the room, and there's no space for the fridge on the west wall because of the window. Some other notes: I've drawn this with an OTR microwave but you could use an undercabinet hood instead, which would give you a little extra space. Keep the microwave underneath the island instead of out on the counter. There should be enough room for a 30" or 36" range, the most common sizes, but a 30" would fit better so hopefully that's what you're getting. I also included a 36" sink and 24" dishwasher, but you might be ok with a 30" sink and 18" dishwasher, which would get you some storage space back. A 24" sink is too cramped IMO.
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Nov 26, 2023 01:13
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Hungry Squirrel posted:I just moved and I'm figuring out my space. I have a 14x11 room that is both bedroom and home office. I would rotate both the bed and the desk 90 degrees, so the bed is against the wall with your feet to the desk, and the desk faces the bed. Get a privacy screen so looking at the bed doesn't distract you. This puts you in the command position when you're sitting at the desk, gives you a solid backdrop for zoom calls, doesn't block any more light than your current solution, and even lets you keep your existing nightstand. All the ikea desks I've looked at are around two to two-and-a-half feet deep, so if you put the back of the desk right up against the foot of the bed, you'll have around three feet between the desk and the wall behind you. That's plenty to get in and out and lean back in your chair and shouldn't make you feel cramped. e: I really like dearmodern on instagram (and i think tiktok/youtube/whatever) for inspiration for layouts; he's a feng shui consultant who does a lot of examples of small bedrooms, awkward spaces, lovely nyc studios, etc. You don't have to buy into feng shui to appreciate the advice he gives. hypnophant fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Dec 4, 2023 |
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Dec 4, 2023 23:12
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