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What's the best resin for small, highly detailed items? Game pieces, thinking 6mm - 30mm or thereabouts. I've been gathering a hoard of stl files for a long time now and I finally worked up the nerve to fire off a test print and  My first attempt is with "Anycubic ABS-like V2" and I have not a clue if this is a good type of resin for this use or not. My printer is an Anycubic Photon Mono M5s, and I'm using the Anycubic slicing software, although I've read the names Chitubox and Lychee and will switch to one of these if they're better. Kylaer fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Sep 24, 2023 |
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Sep 24, 2023 01:43
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 06:42 |
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Yes, miniatures, thank you all for your input! I'll look into those brands and try their stuff. The ABS-like that I'm using is water washable so I specifically want one that isn't water washable for best performance, is that right?
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Sep 24, 2023 03:04
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I did notice the stuff I printed seems very brittle, and removing the supports is really difficult (although that may be a slicer/autosupport issue?). I'll order some Siraya and Jayo resins and see how they do, thanks  The washing specifies 95% isopropyl, is 99% also okay? That's what the local hardware store carries in gallon jugs it looks like.
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Sep 24, 2023 12:05
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Is there any particular reason to choose Lychee versus Chitubox? I want to try a different slicer than the Anycubic included one, even the thinnest autosupports seem awfully thick for the tiny things I'm trying to print.
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Sep 25, 2023 21:02
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The difference between Lychee's lightest autosupports and Anycubic's autosupports is amazing  No sprue trimmer needed. I am going to print so many tiny mans, tanks, and robots.
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Sep 26, 2023 02:28
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Is it better to peel supports off before or after curing?
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Oct 1, 2023 22:22
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Much appreciated. Between using Lychee instead of the Anycubic slicer, Siraya ABS-like instead of Anycubic resin, and peeling before curing, I now...am thinking about throwing away various things I printed before making those changes that I haven't removed the supports from, and just reprinting them properly  On the upside, I now have 50 of the tiniest of tiny mans, which turned out remarkably detailed for being 6mm scale, all peeled and cured. I guess now I have to learn how to paint.
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Oct 2, 2023 00:42
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Welp, I guess minimal supports are in fact not the universal solution. When printing a big, heavy, mostly-flat piece they apparently failed and it warped. When I removed the printed piece at the end, many of the supports had already sheared off. I assume this means I need heavier supports. The great thing about printing though is that I can just fix it and print another, the cost of failure is very small. A couple dollars worth of resin and some hours of printer usage, no big deal, no stress about getting it right the first time, or even the second time 
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Oct 4, 2023 16:11
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Lumpy posted:Thanks to all who have been talking up Sunlu ABS-Like. I finally dialed it in over the weekend, and have done my first prints with it. Amazing stuff! Highly recommended! How do you "dial in" a resin? I've just been dumping whatever resin I'm using into the vat and letting the machine do its thing. So far the only issues I've encountered have been support-related and that's more of a slicer issue than a resin issue as far as I understand it. Also I've learned that trying to print a giant mostly-flat slab is difficult and leads to warping (maybe it would work better if I turned it nearly vertical?). Unrelated question, the Siraya resin I've been using recommends washing in 95% ethanol. I've been using 99% isopropyl instead, because a local hardware store sells gallon jugs of that whereas I don't know where to find 95% ethanol. Does it make that big of a difference? Should I track down a source for industrial ethanol?
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Oct 18, 2023 15:29
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Ballbot5000 posted:Run a cones of callibration to get maximum detail without support failure; this will also minimise your print times. So if all my models so far have printed successfully (slicing errors notwithstanding) the value of this is that I can probably shorten the exposure time and print faster, because I'm providing more curing than my print needs? That makes sense and I will try it out, thanks!
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Oct 18, 2023 16:43
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I've been doing 4 minutes based on absolutely nothing so I should probably back off on that I guess.
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Oct 19, 2023 23:55
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Welp. My printer started alarming that I needed to replace the release film, so I did, which was annoying but doable. And now my prints are failing  There's just a layer of cured resin stuck to the release film, nothing is sticking to the build plate.
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Oct 23, 2023 00:53
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I did remove both layers of film, there were helpful stickers on both sides saying "REMOVE THIS"  I agonized over which way the sheet was supposed to face, it said matte side downward but the two sides looked really similar to me. I think I got it right. The issue may have been that I was printing a single small object (calibration cone) in the very middle of the build area, because when I made another print file with 5 cones scattered over the build surface, they printed fine. Got a big print batch running now, so I'll find out when I get home from work if it's really resolved or not.
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Oct 23, 2023 12:00
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I use it but I have no idea what it actually does  I just click "sharpen details" because more detail = more good, right? Also using Lychee but it processes in a reasonable amount of time.
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Oct 24, 2023 15:32
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I tried using Blender to fix a part that has a void inside it that is messing up the print, and bounced off it hard. I need to watch some tutorials I guess because I cannot figure it out on my own.
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Oct 26, 2023 20:58
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That looks like it should be plenty of support. Have you successfully printed other things and are just having failures with these, or are these the first things you've attempted to print?
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Nov 8, 2023 02:48
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What kind of heater works best? My printer is an Anycubic M5s if that matters.
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Nov 9, 2023 14:07
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Springfield Fatts posted:I have one of these inside the case of my M3. True vat bands are more effective but I never liked the idea of permanently attaching it and then having one more thing dangling around while trying to avoid dripping resin everywhere. Inside the case? Like, inside the UV shield, sitting between the vat and the shield?
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Nov 9, 2023 22:23
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I've been experimenting with mashing together multipart models into a single .stl and printing it instead of printing pieces because I hate messing with glue and tiny pieces, and here are my extremely novice level thoughts so far. It is nice for making a stronger and less fragile model. It is bad because you can't pose the model. It is nice because once you've got the stl tuned, you can crank out a lot of finished product. It is bad because supports may be difficult to remove between pieces of the model. It is bad because if you're planning to paint the model, it'll probably be a lot easier to do before assembly, depending on complexity painting a one piece model may be really tricky. Also, using Meshmixer, it tends to crash the program whenever I try to Boolean-combine two complex parts. I don't know if there's a more robust way of doing it. I tried Blender and haven't figured out how to make it do anything, whereas in Meshmixer I can do some crude mashups pretty easily.
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Nov 11, 2023 00:20
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I bought a couple of different resins, tried printing with Jayo ABS-like and it just formed little scabs at the bottom of the vat, couldn't get it to actually print. Looking back, I probably just needed a (much?) longer exposure time, but Siraya worked without a hitch so I've subsequently used a lot of Siraya and I'm planning to buy more. Edit: Siraya Fast Grey ABS-like, to be specific. They have a new Fast Tough ABS-like that I'd like to try also, it's kind of pricey though so it may not be an everyday-use thing. I do not get how a resin can be "high detail" though. Curing speed, flexibility, strength/toughness, I get how those are material properties of the resin, but how is detail a function of anything other than your printer screen? Is the claim of high detail just marketing nonsense or is there truth behind it? Kylaer fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Nov 11, 2023 |
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Nov 11, 2023 02:23
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Little addendum on mashing .stls together and printing entire models instead of pieces: Microsoft 3D Builder seems to do a lot better job of Boolean combining than Meshmixer. I think it'll be my first choice for basic chop-jobs.IncredibleIgloo posted:I absolutely love 3d printing, but assembling models made out of resin is significantly less fun than standard model kits. So it's not just my imagination that superglue just doesn't seem to stick very well to resin?
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Nov 11, 2023 16:04
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Of course all the multiple bottles of superglue I've got in my toolbox is Gorilla Glue because it's worked well for other tasks  I'll try some Loctite brand and see if that works better, thanks.Another update on mashing stls together: Windows 3D Builder successfully combined a godawful, highly detailed, many-piece mashup I made. It chewed on it for several hours but it didn't crash outright like Meshmixer did. The filesize dropped from 2.3 gigabytes to 290 megabytes, and Lychee no longer pops up error warnings when I import it for slicing. Also I've had issues with especially small items falling through the basket in my washing tub, so sanity check, a big wire-mesh tea infuser ball is a decent way of containing small pieces, right?
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Nov 12, 2023 16:04
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Nov 22, 2023 02:12
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  The hackjob on the head: 
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Nov 22, 2023 21:21
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 I know nothing about guitars so I just hosed it up when mashing the stls together.
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Nov 22, 2023 22:03
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Wilko posted:What’s everyone’s go to resin mix for printing bigatures? I’ve seen people recommend abs-like and a flexi resin mixed together, but unsure of the ratios Siraya makes a Fast Tough Grey ABS-like that I think is a pre-mixed version of this, ready to use.
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Nov 24, 2023 17:02
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This is more "3D printing for the Desktop" than the tabletop, because it's not good for anything other than an ornament/paperweight, but y'know what, if someone doesn't like it they can
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Nov 26, 2023 18:04
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Well poo poo. I just drained my resin vat (I'd been leaving resin in it because of printing constantly) and I cleaned it with a paper towel. Guess I might as well replace the film before I print again. The machine said I was due to change it anyway but it seems to pop that alert up awfully fast.
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Dec 2, 2023 13:22
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Yes, I've used the full-screen cure multiple times, usually when I haven't adequately supported a piece and it falls off half-completed into the resin vat. I've never had trouble reaching into the vat (wearing nitrile gloves of course) and peeling up the cured slab with a fingernail.
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Dec 2, 2023 21:22
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If you're not storing your brushes in a tiny samurai sword display stand then are you really even storing your brushes at all 
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Dec 17, 2023 14:04
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What's the easiest way to convert a 2D outline into a very basic 3D object? Basically I want to be able to stick 3D emblems or logos onto existing models. Basically just add a third dimension to the outline and let me manipulate it from there.
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Dec 17, 2023 18:52
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Sorry, I should have given more detail. Right now it's a black-and-white png. My knowledge of 3D software is extremely limited, I know enough to orient, rescale, reposition and make basic cuts to objects in MeshMixer and/or Windows 3D Builder. I have successfully taken a bunch of individual files representing pieces of a tabletop game model, combined them into a single file, reinforced it with basic shapes (cubes and cylinders, angled and stretched as needed), exported the file of the joined model and successfully printed it, but I've never tried to make an object from scratch. I downloaded Blender and stared at it for a while and couldn't make heads or tails of it. Thank you for your assistance.
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Dec 17, 2023 23:51
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Electric Hobo posted:I usually do it with emboss in 3D Builder. It has a couple of options, so try them out. I had no idea 3D Builder could do this  Thank you!Also, unrelated mini-review: I do not like Siraya Fast Mecha White ABS-like, it feels very brittle and weak. I do like Siraya Fast Tough Grey, it costs a little more than their standard resin but it seems really nice for miniatures and I may make it my standard resin from here on.
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Dec 19, 2023 22:14
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Fuuuuuuck I probably killed my printer. Started a print, came back many hours later to find resin all over the machine, table, and floor. As best as I can figure I tore the release film while peeling off a vat-cleaning whole-screen cure cycle right before I started this print, and it dribbled out slowly, it didn't happen fast enough for me to notice anything wrong between the time I peeled off the cured layer and left after starting the new print. Maybe I haven't killed it but most likely  I'm guessing. Anycubic M5s, really nice printer overall, only issues I ever had with prints were because of inadequate supports, so that's a slicer/user-error issue instead of an actual printer problem. If it is dead, I'll use this interval to paint everything I've printed so far and then buy...probably another of the same one, unless there's something better that gets released between now and then. Given my painting speed that's very possible
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Jan 3, 2024 23:15
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Sure enough, I found a small tear in the release film which absolutely was caused by me peeling off the cleaning-cycle resin, right at the corner of the lighted area. Welp. I'll do a further teardown tomorrow or something, right now I don't have time to really dig into it but I'm pretty sure I killed it. At minimum I killed the screen. 
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Jan 4, 2024 01:13
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Ooh I've had that happen and I think I understand it. The printed object is inadequately supported or has too much suction against the release film and breaks free from the supports, but when the island merges with the later part of the object it's able to get lifted free and starts printing again. Add a couple of hefty supports before you try it again.
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Jan 4, 2024 16:31
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a source for stls of 6mm/Epic-scale Chaos cultists, militia, rogue psykers, mutated humans or anything along those lines? I have some very nice traitor Guard sculpted by Wake's Emporium, but they're professionals, I'm looking for some rabble.
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Jan 11, 2024 14:43
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Bucnasti posted:Yeah that's what I'm saying.
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Jan 18, 2024 22:12
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IncredibleIgloo posted:and then at that point you have the same sort of pre-work/assembly you would have for any model kit. I would say this isn't true because you can print an entire complicated model in one piece, or just a couple of pieces, which is potentially way faster than assembling an equivalent plastic model off a sprue. You may want to print things in multiple pieces even if you could print them assembled, because it's likely easier to paint them that way, but if you want to just print it all together, you likely can.
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Jan 18, 2024 22:22
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 06:42 |
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Friendship ended with Siraya Fast Tough Grey. Now Phrozen Aqua Grey 8K is my best friend. (Pending further tests, but so far it seems real nice for printing very small tabletop stuff).
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Feb 3, 2024 18:12
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