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Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


What's the internet expert opinion on eco resins? I backed the latest March To Hell because it looked cool. I don't have a 3d printer and wasn't planning to get one, but it seems like the cost and toxicity have significantly reduced the barriers to entry. Thoughts?

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Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


I should have specified I meant the plant-based resins not the water washable ones sorry. Limited space and preternaturally curious children are my main barriers, so I'm trying to avoid toxicity if that's doable.

Guest2553 fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Jun 22, 2021

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


OK, it's impulse buying time...some of the prime deals are bordering on too good to pass up, but expire today. The general takeaway I've seen was 'can't go wrong with mars 2 or photon mono'. Is the 20% price spread worth the minor differences?

Mars 2 - 200
Mars 2 pro - 240
Anycubit photon mono - 190

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


I ended up going with the photon mono for 200. It'll be good enough to figure if I want to cut my losses, or if I want to post-hole into a new hobby. Either way, 200 is prettymuch nothing.

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


I still have a few days before my (hopefully serviceable) mono arrives, so I've been trying to figure out what non-PPE items are worth picking up. I've gathered the following, but would like to QC it against the goon shared experience:

-Get a plastic screen protector to keep the printer guts safe, it's worth the marginal loss of light intensity.
-Pick up spare FEP and a spare vat. Sovol resin vats are recommended because they're nice and FEP sheets are a lot easier to replace.
-Flex plates are good for QOL thing at the cost of ~3mm of space, but aren't essential.
-Cure stations and ultrasonic cleaners are also make life easier but are even less essential.

I was also leaning towards using denatured alcohol or some other cleaner because IPA is still in the ballpark of 5-10 bucks a quart.

Thoughts?

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


[quote="w00tmonger" post="515947271"]
Getting a flex plate helps a ton and lets you print flat (do this, they're amazing).

Wait as in, you no longer need to figured out angles and supports? Can you explain this one more?

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


Got my photon mono last week but didn't get around to turning it on til Fri night. The first print was underexposed, but the next 5 worked nicely. The vehicles have scarring from being oversupported and photon workshop is kinda rough, but I didn't have to give battlefront $200 and can cover up blemishes with stowage/battle damage for character.

Thanks for peer pressuring me into it! I think.

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


Lol, I knew what you were getting at.

Are there any recommended resins for making something like this? If I start now it'll be a bitching christmas present for my spouse, but it looks like it's made with filament.

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


Any reason why vroom wouldn't work on a photon mono?

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


Guest2553 posted:

Any reason why vroom wouldn't work on a photon mono?

e. If the mono is broken it won't work :haw:

X-post from 3d thread - at 90% through a print the LCD did that thing where it was littered with vertical lines and started printing spaghetti and some of the tear force ripped a hole in the FEP. While cleaning out the resin from the inside, the LCD cable tore. And I noticed something that might be a broken screen? How hosed am I, and how much needs to be shelled out to be un-hosed?

PS, after realizing I wouldn't be printing anything for a while, I went to clean off all my stuff outside. The resin alcohol mix fell onto a rug and my kids learned all the really bad words in english. Never again, black resin.

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Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


:rip:

It is attached to the LCD, and light googling suggests that would be the fix since they're not user replaceable and I'm hardly the first person to gently caress it up. Chitu systems' replacements are are stock and on sale so the damage might be limited to 50 USD and a month of waiting. Time to catch up on painting, I guess :smith:

If there was a break to be had, it's that it was the second wash mix that fell so it was mostly 99% IPA that hadn't even clouded yet. It fell on a boot rug that will spend the next couple days outside and the hardwood underneath was easy to clean up with an old towel and nitrile gloves. There was no smell once cleaned up, and I shone a UV light on it to be sure. Either way, I'm never trusting black resin again :colbert:

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


Someone (internetjunky?) was pimping siraytech grey so thanks for that, I checked out their site and got 2kg for about 70 shipped, way less than the 100+ it would have cost from amazon.

By the time it arrives my replacement screen should be here, while I'm tinkering around I'll see if I can't figure out a flex plate as well.

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


Finally cracked open the fast grey and goddamn it is both fast and pleasant to work with. 1.5s exposure with zero failed prints most of the way into a bottle, and it has less odor than eco resins imo.

Friendship terminated with Anycubic, now SirayaTech is my new best friend.

e. oh gently caress I just noticed the build plate screws were loose so the metal head could swivel. I'm sure I tightened them during my last z-level but guess they worked themselves loose after being on for most of the past 48 hours. All hail saraiya.

Guest2553 fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Oct 8, 2021

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


My wife was out of town for a bit so I used the opportunity to print all day urry day.

For her, a 3D printed/painted Catan set. For myself, a shitload of late war US armor for Battlefront's Battle of the Bulge rules.

This is fine :shepspends:

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


Geisladisk posted:

Anyone know of any 15mm WW2 Soviet tank rider stls?

3dbreed is the only one I know of. After being hurt too many times before, they're my go-to for infantry models. I do generally prefer tigerace1945 and m_bergman for vehicles though.

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


Try checking out aliexpress for screens. I damaged mine last summer and needed a replacement. Anycubic OEM shipping doubled the price but aliexpress did it for five bucks and the package arrived within two weeks. YMMV by brand.

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


Most of my resin printing is AFV/MBTs where I can hussy up pockmarks as battle damage, so I don't really go out of my way to prevent them.

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


3dbreed has another kickstarter up, this time for cowboys.

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


ScaerCroe posted:

I don't have Search here, so can't check, but: Anyone here use FDM for 28mm minis? I have seen a few posts from FatDragon's site that FDM isn't terrible, and $100 is a great deal.

It doesn't come close to the detail you'd get from resin, but that's not necessarily a deal-breaker. IMO it depends on whether it's the wargaming or the painting/basing that sparks joy. I've used FDM 15mm vehicles and even a couple interim artillery pieces when I didn't feel like handling toxic goo. It looks rough up close (at .2mm layers because :effort:), but is good enough from a couple feet away when painted that I'm fine with it. Layer lines on 28mm minis is comparatively smaller than on 15mm, and it will be less still if you do .1 layers or something. Print time is gonna be a lot longer at that scale. But at $100 it's better than the 3d printer you don't have given the other fun things you can do with it :v: I've blown more money and received less in return, at any rate.

If you're looking at infantry-type models and can only do one, though, go resin.

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


It only works with stuff like ABS which needs venting because of the noxious gasses, as does the acetone itself. If I gotta deal with :osha:, resin has better detail, prints faster, and is easier to contain.

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


How useful are wash and cute stations for 15mm infantry and guns? I bought the battlefront eastern front book for the bite sized history and dammit, now I have to make a couple companies.

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


Thanks for the words. I was pondering the anybucic 2.0 to match my mono anyways.

When I inevitably give in to the impulse, what's a good cure time for 15mm?

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


If you can figure out something like that in cobblestone I can't say I wouldn't throw down some cash for it. 15mm cobblestones roads are way too expensive so I've been using gray felt, so can't be the only one.

Maybe I should just get a laser cutter, lol.

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


queeb posted:

Yo gimme some specs and I'll whip something up for you, I'm on a creative journey right now and that sounds fun.

I'll try and throw some thought at it over the weekend. I have no experience designing something like this and would just be making it up, if rough measurements and a vague description are enough to go by!

Also would lean towards exaggerated features for the same reasons, it wouldn't really look out of place in anything on the realistic-to-cartoony spectrum imo.

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


Zorro KingOfEngland posted:

Have you or a loved one been affected by MSLAtheolioma?

Just Chronic Obstructive PLAmonary Disease here.

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


*sweats in .15 layers printed with FDM*

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


I have a plastic razor for stuff like that. A tablet screen protector between screen and vat preempts leaks, or at least some thermal tape to seal the gaps between screen and printer guts.

I have a full Soviet army I need to print off now that I think about it...

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


Electric Hobo posted:

I usually do it with emboss in 3D Builder. It has a couple of options, so try them out.

That's my go-to for stuff like that as well. I made a bunch of FDM keycards as party favors and it was easy to import/emboss text and images for them. My kid's classmates were bugging me for more for weeks after that though :rip:

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Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


poo poo, if I had something like that going on I'd try to find a way to make one of them a plot point. Haunted painting that changes slightly every session says what? At the very least a treasure map on a flip side to kick something off.

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