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EdsTeioh posted:Cool, thanks! In regards to the alcohol; that's just regular isopropyl, correct? Probably good to have some whiskey around too.
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# ¿ Feb 11, 2022 21:25 |
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# ¿ May 22, 2024 09:05 |
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Eej posted:I don't think Russians are going to sell you malware STLs or something. I suspect this was in reference to Ukraine.
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# ¿ Feb 27, 2022 04:15 |
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Numinous posted:Anyone have recommendations for walls that are more outdoorsy - like shrubs and vine mixed together to make walls with a tree every now and then? I've got more caves, dungeons, and stonework than I can shake a stick at. How long did it take you to make that? It looks awesome but I don't know if I want to commit
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# ¿ Nov 2, 2022 23:23 |
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Numinous posted:I also have a good $500 worth of plastic of 3d printed openforge 2.0 stuff and the hirst arts stuff is about on par from a time perspective. Casting is fairly easy and you can pump out walls and tiles pretty fast. Gluing up the wall pieces was fun but it takes some time. Painting is about the same as the 3d printed stuff. I would say about 40 hours for the full kit as laid out in the link. I absolutely LOVE the weight and detail in the casted pieces. Far superior to 3d printed IMO. That's not bad time-wise. I have most of the terrain printed and painted, but not the board components themselves. I've also been sourcing minis to replace the standins but haven't gotten very far with it. I just started a new playthrough with a new group though so this would be a good time to up my own game.
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# ¿ Nov 3, 2022 00:20 |
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Numinous posted:If you're interested, this is the source I used for a lot of my choices of miniature: Yeah I have an ender 3, which has been fine for terrain but I was never happy with the output from it for minis. I got the blacklist fantasy series 1 minis intending to use some of them as stand-ins, but that hasn't actually ever arrived. Hopefully QML posts another update about shipping on it soon and I actually can get my hands on it.
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# ¿ Nov 3, 2022 02:07 |
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Using illustrator for this stuff is really quick to pick up. You'll be proficient in no time.
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# ¿ Nov 4, 2022 04:35 |
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queeb posted:yeah that makes me wonder what these guys use to paint: The site calls them "color printed", and one of the photos on the landing page makes it look like they're done before the laser cutting happens. It could be a decal?
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# ¿ Nov 4, 2022 18:20 |
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queeb posted:Thinking about doing a run of condition markers for my little etsy shop to sell with the laser cutter, what style do you guys like better? I think im partial to the 2 words, 2 icons, seems less busy. That or top left, yeah. Top right is no good.
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2022 05:07 |
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occluded posted:Eze uh Spoken like a true pocket.
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2022 20:52 |
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That's an amazing scenario. Pretty wild that it worked at all indeed - I wonder if the only thing that wanted the higher voltage was the screen, such that you were essentially running it at much less than 100% brightness as another goon suggested.
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# ¿ Dec 2, 2022 19:45 |
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Randalor posted:Yeah, she wipes it down before every print. She didn't have adhesion problems when she first got it but was making smaller projects with a raft (Christmas ornaments with lots of things pieces) but she hadn't used it for a few months and now that she started using it again, has been having problems with getting larger prints like trays curling up on the corners, even with a brim. Curling on large flat surfaces could also be draft related, if the room is at all drafty.
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# ¿ Jan 12, 2023 16:59 |
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bbcisdabomb posted:An enclosure couldn't hurt, and by enclosure I mean sticking a cardboard box over the whole thing while it prints to make sure drafts aren't the problem. Yeah this - Try just putting a giant cardboard box over it to start. If that helps notably, then you can think about implementing some kind of enclosure that's less of a fire hazard.
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# ¿ Jan 12, 2023 17:35 |
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Roller Coast Guard posted:I do not have a 3d printer, haven't got the space, time or finances for a 3d printer, and know nothing about 3d printing. If you're asking this because you might want something printed, it's trivially easy to resize something with one caveat: It might not print as well at the new size, particularly if you're shrinking it down a lot. Also if you want to scale it up a lot, you might not be able to fit it on the print bed. That's for most FDM prints at least. For resin it might require reworking the supports, which could be a pain in the rear end.
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# ¿ Sep 9, 2023 22:03 |
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tehsid posted:I've been printing up some roads and other bits for this Mordhiem event. Today I finally got a chance to pop some paints on the roads to see how they come up. The occasional dash of dry grass flocking adds a ton, good work!
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# ¿ Sep 23, 2023 16:27 |
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SubNat posted:Ah yeah, Dungeonblocks are rad. Seem like a cool system, but requires more plastic that openlock no? Is the main advantage the somewhat built-in support for building levels?
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# ¿ Sep 25, 2023 21:22 |
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Lumpy posted:I can barely get the .1mm feeler gauge in there, and I scrubbed the plate with Isopropyl, but I shall do soap as well. Stupid question about the temperature test: how do I do that? I ordered PLA, but I will double check. Thanks for the suggestion so far. The feeler gauge is good for getting "in the ballpark" it after that you need to eyeball it based on how the layer looks. That corner could be a smidge closer to the bed.
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# ¿ Nov 18, 2023 23:54 |
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Southern Heel posted:Country to popular wisdom, I have reduced the heat on my elegoo brand PLA from 220 to 205 and reduced speed from 250mm to 200mm and I’m getting way less of the fluffy tufts between projections. I'm not sure where you're getting your popular wisdom, but printing cooler and slowing down a bit should help with stringing ("fluffy tufts between projections" sounds like stringing to me). Basically what you've done falls 100% in line with conventional wisdom. I'm not 100% sure what you mean by the second point, but my guess it you're printing something with a limited number of thin, taller sections. There's a common problem that happens when printing items like this where the time spent printing each layer is very quick, and so the next layer gets laid down before the previous layer has had time to cool. This results in very sloppy looking towers. You can increase the "minimum layer time" in pretty much every slicer (although it may be called something slightly different) which will result in g-code that slows down more when printing such things. Also, often simply printing an extra copy or two of the part results in a sufficiently long layer time to resolve the issue, which is what it sounds like you've discovered.
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# ¿ Dec 27, 2023 17:40 |
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Southern Heel posted:The 2nd point was more that I ended up with piles of birds nest filament - presumably one print was clashing with the next? It was printing one whole object at a time and then moving to the next, rather than all together. Ooooooh, yeah I've never enabled that feature. It can work if the parts are arranged on the bed such that the print head/gantry won't hit previously printed items, but I imagine it's a fairly specialized scenario.
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# ¿ Dec 27, 2023 17:58 |
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tacosupreme posted:I'm interested in some well priced minis that are more competitively priced than GW but are more exciting to paint than spoons, anyone know a good source of Warhammer analogues that ship to me in plastic form? There are some goons here with printers that pay for reseller licenses to models and will print and sell you things. Queeb and others will probably chime in? armorer fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Jan 19, 2024 |
# ¿ Jan 19, 2024 23:16 |
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tehsid posted:Grab em quick I managed to download the Gitz & Gobboz collection, but in the process the rest have disappeared.
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# ¿ Jan 24, 2024 21:33 |
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Lumpy posted:I definitely notice more... texture? when using PLA+. I'll definitely be switching back to regular old PLA after this batch runs out. Then again, maybe PLA+ has some benefit I'm not seeing because I'm not doing something right. When I switched from the PLA I was using to a new PLA+, it took me a while to dial in the right settings. I had a ton of stringing and generally lovely looking prints at first, but after playing around with some different temps and retraction settings, I got nice clean prints again.
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# ¿ Feb 5, 2024 20:56 |
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Ominous Jazz posted:I was job hunting and while I didn't find a job a guy is trying to sell me a Creatily Ender 3 Pro for five bucks. I can probably make some neat terrain or something, right? I wouldn't expect it to work right for $5, but I have two of them that I use to print terrain (among other things) and they work great. You might have to put a lot of time into tuning it, which could be as involved as partially disassembling/reassembling it and replacing parts. For $5, it's not much of a gamble.
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# ¿ Feb 13, 2024 06:49 |
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Southern Heel posted:Sorry to bother you all - but what does this indicate I've got set wrong? Are those raised, ridged sections? If so are you printing that thing solid?
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# ¿ Feb 23, 2024 18:13 |
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# ¿ May 22, 2024 09:05 |
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The Eyes Have It posted:It sure looks like it! Instead of putting logos or photos on a plate full of golf balls or pens or cell phone cases, it's "painting" a terrain sheet. Pretty loving clever! These are pretty cool. For hanging them, something low tech like blutac or even just double sided tape would work, no?
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# ¿ Mar 22, 2024 21:34 |