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Robert Facepalmer
Jan 10, 2019


Isometric Bacon posted:

I just bought a kilo of Anycubic grey resin to top op, and I've noticed that it appears to be alot more... Yellow, and more transparent than the 500g I had previously. Same brand and everything.

See a pic of a mini I printed on the previous resin compared to this one.

Is this a quality control difference or is it likely the resin just got more UV exposure sitting in the vat or something?



Depending on where you are at, if it got cold during transit that could be 'not good' but it looks like the resin at least prints successfully.

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Robert Facepalmer
Jan 10, 2019


Lumpy posted:

So I bought some presupported files, and apparently this case is just a Chitubox file. I don't have Chitubox, and while I am willing to download it, but I am having a hard time believing this is their actual website: https://www.chitubox.com/en/index Is this actually them? :tinfoil:

Yup. 'If it ain't sketchy, it ain't Chitubox!'

Robert Facepalmer
Jan 10, 2019


It ain't great. If you are using new resin, fresh outta the can and have a print ready to go, it likely isn't much of a factor. Also depends on how hydrophobic/philic the resin is. If you have a printer sitting around with resin and you are trying to dial in settings, it is one more variable in 'why the gently caress is this not working?'

Robert Facepalmer
Jan 10, 2019


Tiny Chalupa posted:

I got a 2nd Saturn S....and I cannot get the cones, or anything, to print successfully.

It is also possible something is /slightly/ bent. I had one that would not work out of the box, everything seemed fine, but nothing.

I had a buddy that is a machinist take a look at it and he said the whole thing had a warp to it. Not much, but apparently enough that kept it from working.

It was an Amazon purchase, so the return was easy, but it does make me wonder how it was treated during transport.

Robert Facepalmer
Jan 10, 2019


Get the 123 blocks out and see if frame and z-screw are true.

Robert Facepalmer
Jan 10, 2019


spectralent posted:

I'm getting a bit frustrated by the lack of generic mecha models and I'm condiering just trying to make them myself. I know a little bit of blender operation, but how do hard surface 3D prints come out? I feel like the sharp angles would make my printer sad; true?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qs2Rb0ExnIM&t=1s
Print angles are kinda arcane, but dude straight up tells you the formula at one point so it isn't too hard. It makes a surprising amount of difference when you can get it to work. It is way easier when stuff is just 90º angles, but if you rotate something with a weird angle to a 90º and then apply the print angle, that usually works pretty well.

Robert Facepalmer
Jan 10, 2019


Ez8 posted:

That worked. This resin becomes incredibly brittle when cured like that, though. Yeesh. I have to print it again just to so I don't crack everything when i try to remove it from the sprues.

Try soaking the prints in warm water for like five minutes before you clip the supports. That makes a surprising amount of difference in how much shattering and pitting I got when removing supports.

Robert Facepalmer
Jan 10, 2019


If you want it solid, send me a PM. Unless it is really goofy I can open the file in ZBrush and just get rid of the interior.

Robert Facepalmer
Jan 10, 2019


Ehhhhh, it isn't great but after slicing it it probably won't be noticeable even if you are looking for it. I'd be more annoyed about that rivet that got a chunk sliced out of it.

Robert Facepalmer
Jan 10, 2019


w00tmonger posted:

I feel like the main "tech" here would be printing around curved surfaces, which I have to imagine would mean doing multiple passes over the surface at different angles

Seems like that is still a limiting factor. If you look at those lanterns on the posts, there is a line along the part line that is still bare plastic/base color.

It feels like Archon just made a really convoluted way to do tampos. If the sprue is 3d assets, why do you need a painter to paint the masters and scan it? I guarantee there are plenty of environment artists that would love to have any kind of work right now that would likely be able to do a similar job with fewer steps.

Robert Facepalmer
Jan 10, 2019


Springfield Fatts posted:

Anyone getting the fancy Saturn 4? Wondering if the tilt-print thing is worth the hype.

Not really. Maybe in a couple generations once the kinks are worked out, but right now it sounds like one more thing to break or gently caress up.

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Robert Facepalmer
Jan 10, 2019


That is just an air purifier, an extractor has like a hood or enclosure with a fan that dumps the dirty air outside.

I just checked with a buddy that I thought had one and he said that even just as a purifier it suuuuuuuucked (actually, it did NOT suck). He got a plant grow hood from like Amazon that already had an air tube that he connected to a window fan he had.

The grow hood was nice as it also helped insulate the printers with a heater, but you can't really run the fan with the heaters or it will dump all the warm air outside. So he'll get things started/heating, then when the prints are done turn on the fan for 5-10 minutes to dump the dirty air before he opens the hood up.

Robert Facepalmer fucked around with this message at 21:55 on May 9, 2024

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