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A buddy of mine just got a 4k printer. Where are some good places to find Necron proxies so I can make him use all his resin?
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Mar 9, 2022 02:15
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 11:39 |
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Assuming I'm a complete idiot (which I am) how hard is setting up / using a Filament printer if I want to buy terrain STL files like this and print them? Is the OP suggestions of an Ender 3 still a good one?
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Jul 31, 2022 22:55
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_Gumby posted:I cant speak for the Mono SE specifically, but I would probably go for the Mono 4k, you can get them for $189USD (~$280AUD) atm: https://www.anycubic.com/collections/3d-printers/products/photon-mono-4k So if I were to finally break down and buy one of these, what things that make life easy should I also get? People say "flex-plates" in here a lot... what is that and should I get one? And what is the current best "I am a total n00b" guide these days?
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Aug 19, 2022 17:23
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Is 3D modeling for resin printing for "simple" things that are non-organic (ex: a gun swap on a 40k War Dog that is a single piece) basically making the thing the right size in Blender and export to STL? I watched this video (which was linked here a while back) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqDnLg3o9WE and it seems relatively straightforward, but was curious if anyone had any experience with it they could share. Also a big thanks to all the people in this thread who have answered my and other's questions! I feel slightly less terrified about ordering a printer now... going to get a Photon Mono 4k.
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Aug 24, 2022 15:10
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Every time I'm about to buy a 3d printer, I read this thread and empty my cart.
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Oct 12, 2022 15:04
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FINE! I just ordered a Mono 4k 
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Oct 12, 2022 19:26
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Communist Thoughts posted:Mono 4k is what I have too and it was pretty cheap and I've printed easily thousands of quids worth of models and now I sculpt and print my own stuff I eventually want to model my own stuff, which is how I justified getting the printer finally 
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Oct 13, 2022 15:03
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Ego Trip posted:Don't need to print faster than you can paint anyway. So I should print 20 minis a year. Check.
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Oct 15, 2022 03:32
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My wash & cure station has arrived! Printer will still be a few days, which is fine, since I have to make space, build a heater box type thing, etc. Excited to start futzing with things! Question about washing: I see a vast majority of people wash with IPA, but the manual for the washer says "alcohol, detergent solution, etc." and I saw someone mention they used some sort of cleaner (LA's Awesome or something like that?) mixed with water. Does one perform better in any way? Is one safer?
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Oct 18, 2022 14:44
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What is the right term(s) on MyMinFactory or wherever to search for to find models that are like a Necormunda / Stargrave box in that there are 10 bodies, and then a bunch of arms & weapon options? I play Necromunda and would love to find proxy models for gangs (or even just Orlock at the moment) but since your gang changes semi-frequently as people upgrade gear and people die and new recruits join etc. buying files with set weapons is something I'd like to avoid. Or if anyone knows of a creator that off those, that would be great too!
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Oct 24, 2022 21:29
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moths posted:Anvil Digital Forge is pretty great, and I think they're on MMF OOOh, thank you (and everyone else!) this seems prefect since most bits fit across all their sci-fi ranges. I should probably actually get my printer set up first though....
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Oct 24, 2022 22:53
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My Anycubic text cube is printing! But I'm pretty sure I forgot to take some sort of protective film off the bottom of the vat.  If I am going to print more tomorrow (assuming this works, but it seems to be) can I leave that film on for a bit, or is it better to empty it out, clean, and remove before trying anything "real"?
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Nov 14, 2022 01:35
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Have you used cones of calibration? I advise running that and adjusting your settings based on that since that is based around supports. I had a very big difference between my resin validation ideal exposure compared to the cones. Now printing to the cones setting and having a lot of success. When the parts that are supposed to fail fail, do they fall off and you have to fish bits out of the vat? Seems cool though.
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Nov 21, 2022 04:14
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IncredibleIgloo posted:I didn't fish anything out, they have a little roof. Not sure exactly how that works now that I think about it, but no cleanup seemed needed. Awesome. I just finished building a little enclosure for my printer and got a seed starter heater w/ a thermostat to go inside so I can actually print things now that its insanely cold.
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Nov 21, 2022 04:26
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queeb posted:double post but im kinda excited about this, i painted one with a quick like 15 second paintjob and they actually look kinda dope?! Spend an extra minute putting on some texture with a sponge to make it even more "omg these will be sooooo coooooool" Not that they aren't already so cool that is.
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Nov 21, 2022 17:26
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queeb posted:
I like the bottom one, but they are both great.
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Nov 23, 2022 04:48
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Anyone in the US make / use an enclosure heater? If so, what? I picked up a seed-starter heating pad / thermostat, but it's not cutting it in the coldness of my attic. It is only 20W, so perhaps just getting a 40W version would do it.
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Nov 28, 2022 15:42
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Is there any danger / hidden pitfalls in filling up the build plate? I used THE CONES to calibrate (thanks for learning me about that!) and did my very first print yesterday, and it came out great! So now of course I want to print 4797231 things, but wonder if loading up causes more heat or some other thing that would mean the settings would change for a lot vs. a little on the plate.
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Nov 30, 2022 17:46
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So I have printed a bunch of stuff, all pre-supported, and things have gone well. Today I tried supporting a file myself, and…. not so well. Supports stuck to the build plate, but no models in them and piles of cured resin on the FEP instead. The models were a 28mm full figure, and a mother robot dude in the same scale but broken up into pieces. I used Lychee auto-supports with light supports. I’m guessing medium would be a better choice? The models were tipped back 35ish degrees, everything seemed okay in that there were no big places of no supports, etc. Other than beefing up support size, any other suggestions? And does anyone have a recommendation for a “how to support for idiots” video? There are so many, it is tough to tell what’s useful and what is bad advice.
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Dec 10, 2022 05:28
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Jihad Joe posted:So I used the first few tutorial videos from 3D Printing pro on YouTube and never needed anything else. Those are great! Thanks for the heads up.
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Dec 10, 2022 17:42
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Is there a way to do auto-bracing (between supports) in Lychee? I can manually add them, but I wish to be lazy.
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Dec 11, 2022 03:07
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Springfield Fatts posted:What's everyone's tip diameters? My problem with med/hvy supports is how they mar the model when removing them, and sometimes need me to actually snip them off like traditional sprues. What a great video. Now I want the "cones 2.0" he showed at the end. \/\/ thanks! Lumpy fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Dec 11, 2022 |
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Dec 11, 2022 16:45
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Anyone with an Anycubic Wash & Cure know how to stop every single part from partaking in a race to be the first to fall off the platform during curing? The little bumps do nothing. I'm thinking of building a little ledge on the edge of the platform out of aluminum foil. And speaking of that same station, what do people use, if anything, to line the wash basket so small parts don't fall through / poke down into the fan?
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Dec 18, 2022 22:01
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Hmm, I bet the table it is sitting on isn't perfectly level (the joys of a house that's over a hundred years old... nothing is square or level) and that's causing them to want to shift a lot. Going to try the cling-wrap trick, and also check level on it. Thanks for all the feedback / ideas!
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Dec 19, 2022 14:20
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Trip Report: cling wrap on the plate of the wash & cure kept parts where they should be! A big thanks to everyone for all the advise. I'm glad I took the plunge, as I've been printing all sorts of stuff and having a blast.
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Dec 21, 2022 19:01
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mllaneza posted:I'm just glad they don't find the guy making Epic scale STLs on Kickstarter until well after the project funds and I have my STLs. He's done not-Necrons, -Tyrranids, and -Death Guard so far. My attic hovers around 50º and I built a 24"x18" box out of MDF and used construction adhesive to put foam insulation on the outside. I picked up a small (like 6" high) "personal heater" which IIRC runs at like 200 Watts, and have that plugged into a thermostat controlled outlet (which came with the seed starter heat pad I tried first, which was only 24W and was on all the time and never got up past 62º. Anyway, I heat the box to 80º, which doesn't take long and thanks to the insulation, stays toasty. I turn the heater on like an hour before I print with the bottle of resin in there as well so everything is nice and warm and the box stays warm for a long time before the heater has to kick back in.
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Dec 22, 2022 15:27
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I paint the model and base separately. Then I have a hell of time getting it glued on right w/o messing things up. So then I put them on the base first. Then I have a hell of a time painting around the feet and places where the base is in the way. So then I paint the model and base separately. I almost always paint the model and base separately
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Dec 23, 2022 04:42
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So here's something odd (AKA, I am a dummy and need you all to explain it to me): In Lychee, it estimates ~2.5h for a print. I export the .pwma file to UVTools, it estimates 2.5h. I put file on my printer, it says ~2.5h. I hit print, and the time jumps to 6.5h, and that's how long it takes. Since my prints are coming out fine, I am not complaining by any means, but that just seems strange. The one that is printing now is the height of a 28mm figure w/o the head. My setting are attached. Is this normal, or do I have something set very stupidly?
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Jan 5, 2023 04:18
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Deviant posted:
Oh Lordy.... I can't wait for something like that to happen to me!
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Jan 5, 2023 04:36
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IncredibleIgloo posted:TSMC can throw the calculation off, especially if you have a printer that has TSMC attributes that are not visible or adjustable by the slicer. What's a TSMC? I dunno, what's a TSMC you?
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Jan 5, 2023 17:55
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The Eyes Have It posted:I appreciate it! That got me working enough to figure out a clunky but functional workflow. Thanks! So I bought some presupported files, and apparently this case is just a Chitubox file. I don't have Chitubox, and while I am willing to download it, but I am having a hard time believing this is their actual website: https://www.chitubox.com/en/index Is this actually them? 
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Jan 10, 2023 22:26
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Robert Facepalmer posted:Yup. 'If it ain't sketchy, it ain't Chitubox!' BlackIronHeart posted:Yeah, they're... They try. I am seriously contemplating buying a cheap throwaway laptop or doing a virtual machine to install this on. There's no way that isn't absolutely crammed full of malware... at least, that's what that site tell me. Then again: Thanks for the confirmation though.
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Jan 11, 2023 03:45
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I am a n00b, so take my advise with a huge grain of 3d printed salt. My printer is in a box made of MDF, and I don't vent it at all, but I try not to be in the room with it when it is printing. The video from Goobertown (who is a PhD chemist) about resin indicates the fumes are a "Type 2" hazard, which is basically an irritant. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ht4tbCiFxeM&t=1470s This is from Elgoo's MSDS: quote:Breathing Equipment: None should be needed from normal use. If this material is handled at elevated temperature or under mist forming conditions, approved respiratory protection equipment should be used. Selection and use of respiratory equipment must be in accordance with applicable regulations and good industrial hygiene practice. So from what I gather, don't huff the stuff on purpose, and if it bothers you, vent, but being in a room with a printer that is in a box is something I personally am okay with. But better to be too cautious than not enough I guess. Lumpy fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Jan 11, 2023 |
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Jan 11, 2023 20:32
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DarkAvenger211 posted:
Lychee has an FDM version: https://mango3d.io/lychee-slicer-for-filament-fdm-3d-printers/
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Jan 11, 2023 21:46
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w00tmonger posted:Can you use lycheeslicer. I haven't used chitu for ages. I do use Lychee, but the issue as I mentioned in my first post on the topic is that I bought some pre-supported files, and they came as Chitubox files instead of STLs with supports baked in.
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Jan 11, 2023 21:57
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w00tmonger posted:Ah right.... If you want to us the presupports you might be able to reverse engineer the files but it's gonna be a pain. yeah, that's what I'm going to wind up doing, but I was hoping to be lazy. Because I am lazy.
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Jan 11, 2023 22:04
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Another question about pre supported files. Another one I bought has the supports baked into an STL file. However, when I bring it into Lychee to slice it, it is red and says "there is a problem" or whatever it is that it says. Click the "fix" button can't fix it. I normally then try brining it into Blender and using the 3d printing add-on to stay and fix it, but it can't seem to fix it either. Is this normal? Any suggestions on how to deal with this issue? I also have another question, but I'm posting far too much in this thread today.
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Jan 12, 2023 03:31
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BlackIronHeart posted:It seems counter intuitive but if you have the built-in 3D Builder application from Microsoft, it can fix models that other programs can't. I know, I know, but just trust me and try it. It'll prompt you to repair the model when you open it with the program. Unfortunately I am on a Mac. I did figure out something that seemed to work (we'll see when I try to print it tomorrow): I imported it into Blender, went into Sculpt mode and remeshed the object, then re-exported it as an STL. Lychee was happy with it after that. EDIT: I went to the file's MyMiniFactory page, and other people had the same problem, and their response was: "No, not a problem, don't worry. We use a different software to check everything is "water tight" and the model has no issues. Some softwares like Cura may show some minor warnings in some cases but you can plainly ignore them." So I dunno. 
Lumpy fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Jan 12, 2023 |
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Jan 12, 2023 04:19
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So here's the other question / issue I had: A couple days ago, I printed two models (Ice pillar markers for Malifaux) and they printed perfectly. So in Lychee I make 3 copies of each to fill up the build plate, but there was still space around the edge (nothing was smooshed right up against it) I hit print and off I went on my merry way. I came back later and the print was done, but three of them had issues at the bases, and one of them printed perfectly, except for the fact that it had just stopped being printed about 75% the way up the model. The top was just missing. I probably should post a picture.
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Jan 12, 2023 20:20
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 11:39 |
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Here's a picture. These were all done at the same time. One fine (right) one where the base had something wacky happen (middle) and one that it looks like it just gave up (left)
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Jan 12, 2023 20:59
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