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I'm obsessed with OpenLock tiles. I'm printing out a bunch of these cathedral ruins panels from Printablescenery.com, and they just clip together in different configurations and unclip when I'm done. SUPER happy with how this looks for being a filament print. Ignore the blood stain
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Apr 7, 2021 21:10
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 19:26 |
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Yep, it's a mix of the cathedral walls, cathedral ruins, and cathedral floors from this section https://www.printablescenery.com/product-category/future/gothic-40k-scenery/ Its not free, but I've not found anything else that hits exactly what I was looking for at that quality
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Apr 7, 2021 22:16
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I'm shrinking down some models to print out strips of 6mm historicals, and generally I have the process down pretty well, except obviously the weapons are coming out suuuuuper thin. Is there something in Meshmixer I can use to beef up really thin parts like that? Or can someone point me in the right direction in Blender for doing that? edit-- actually, it looks like it just use the fatten tool in Blender on the whole model, it prints and looks better at 6mm! Count Thrashula fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Jun 1, 2021 |
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Jun 1, 2021 19:11
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Any tips for removing stubborn pieces from a resin build plate? I'm printing out strips of 6mm units for wargaming, and the base of each one is 20mm wide x 5mm deep x 2mm tall. Sometimes when I get my scraper underneath, it's fine. Sometimes though, it splits in half. Is less burn-in time the key? Do I just need to use like a razor blade or something to get them off? It's like they're stuck TOO well, so part of the base pops off, while the rest stays on, breaking it. edit-- I guess the other option is just print it with supports instead of flat on the build plate... Count Thrashula fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Jun 8, 2021 |
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Jun 8, 2021 20:47
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I picked up a flexi plate and it installed super easily (including a 3 minute FDM print to make a 2mm shim). Quick question though - is it okay to dunk the build plate in IPA? Will it mess up the adhesive on the magnetic plate? I'm assuming it's fine since it's dunked in resin all the time too, but I wanted to check before testing it out.
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Jun 15, 2021 15:00
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I go to print something yesterday and when it's done I just have... a blobby brick on my plate. Okay weird, maybe the file was corrupted or something. Try again with a known good file that's small. Blobby brick. Okay weird, let's do an exposure test, where it lights up the LCD with just a rectangle border and black in the middle so I can make sure the LCD is go-  (the middle bits were flickering and flashing) Yeah huh okay... gonna assume this is a bad LCD? I took it off and did another exposure test and the light array all looks good and solid and bright, so... I'm assuming a new LCD will fix this.
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Jul 4, 2021 00:18
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Yeah OPR is consistently my favorite 3d printing Patreon. Their game rules are a pretty solid way to introduce someone to tabletop gaming too
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Jul 5, 2021 17:05
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If I had a dollar for every time I forgot to put the flex plate back on the build plate before starting a print, I would... I would be a rich man.... drat it.
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Nov 2, 2021 13:47
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I just got some new resin to play around with (Siraya Tech Fast) and poked a hope in my FEP cleaning the old resin out  Guess I'll try it out in a couple days when the new FEP sheets come...
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Apr 27, 2022 00:34
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Yeah the hardest rule I learned about resin printing is you have to get ALL of the uncured resin out of the hollow parts and get it really dry in there (shining a little UV flashlight in is even better). Uncured resin offgasses and if it's in a little pocket that's been glued up, kaboom
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Aug 19, 2023 02:38
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Southern Heel posted:thank you all again! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5416700
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Sep 2, 2023 08:27
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crime fighting hog posted:This is exactly what I wanna print and I just got my ender 3 back yesterday from my friend who fixed it. Could you share where you got the files? I think it's these! https://www.printablescenery.com/product/roads-of-ruin/
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Sep 23, 2023 23:11
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The Atlas resin team have done a lot of testing and found that you literally can't over-cure resin, it hits a final cure point and then just stays there. If things are too brittle when they're heavily cured, that's just the property of the resin you're using. Anyway I don't have a real answer, my curing box broke so I just leave things in the sun until they feel not-tacky.
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Oct 20, 2023 00:42
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Microsoft has a program in the Windows store called 3D Builder that I used for that job exactly. Bonus it's the best lightweight tool for repairing STLs that come up red in lychee slicer
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Oct 26, 2023 23:28
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 19:26 |
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Springfield Fatts posted:Crossposting from the DIY thread because it got drowned out in FDM chat: I can't tell from the photo, but are all of the supports light? What I usually do with models like that is add a few "medium" supports on the foot or whatever's the bottom of the model, to act as a kind of anchor so that the light supports are less likely to pull off. If it's a big model I'll do a heavy support or two also.
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Nov 8, 2023 17:07
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