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Is there a better source for .stl's than what I've been doing so far? I want to finally finish my Tyranids army at some point. Playing guess-the-keyword in the cults3d search function turned into like 4 hours of searching to get maybe 7 or 8 of them and I think half of them are "epic re-size" that I have my doubts about.
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Feb 25, 2022 01:48
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 05:39 |
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Consider me stupid. I go to mmf and search for one page rules and get nothing. How do I unstupid myself?
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Feb 25, 2022 19:00
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Electric Hobo posted:It's OnePageRules and their search function is bad. Ah, that worked as far as the searching process. Not what I was looking for unfortunately. I already have probably a few thousand points of Tyranids going back as far as fifth edition. Only recently have the time/money to invest in finishing up the army. The painting process will happen some day I swear NO REALLY. At the moment though looking to finally have a full complement of stuff to put on the table.
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Feb 26, 2022 00:11
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Well, there's a problem with terminology that has plagued this situation for a while. When "leveling" the plate it's not actually making it level to gravity. As long as you're not on a hillside or in a rolling ship out at sea then being "level" means "on a flat surface". The actual name for the "sheet of paper and turning screws" process is tramming. This can be thought of as "making a machine level to itself, disregarding gravity". As long as resin isn't pouring out of the side of your vat, you're level enough.
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Mar 9, 2022 18:00
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Venting outside is preferable if possible. No need for filters then. Some kind of enclosure, dryer vent hose and an inline motor, point it out a window and seal as needed.
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Mar 24, 2022 02:43
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Are there convenient tools like being able to put a line between two points on a mini in lychee and have it tell you how many mm are between them? I'm also trying to figure out a reference point, some way to see a thing on the screen and know how big it will be in reality. I figure once I get a set of GW-accurate bases in all the sizes and shapes they use I can probably eyeball the mini sizes based on that, just don't know where to start or how to guarantee the correct output.
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Mar 30, 2022 16:54
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TheDiceMustRoll posted:Is that why every presupported miniature is lying on its back and held up by supports? That makes sense. Well, height value might not be the reason, or only reason, why. Orientation to the plate becomes important in how it interacts with supports. Phone shitter-posting so I don't have it handy but the other 3d printing thread had a YouTube about this I can dig up at home. Long story short for this specific point supports coming up off the plate will have some 'sag' in their first few layers because the gap between supports is at first exposure bridged by something about as thick as a hair. The YouTube video likens it to trying to hold up a parachute with sticks. Until a few layers build up it's kinda bendy and floppy, then it stiffens up. The better modelers will put the underside or back side of the model facing towards the plate to minimize the impact on final appearance.
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Mar 30, 2022 18:59
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Eediot Jedi posted:As mentioned, lychee has a measure feature, but I think you need the paid version or be on a trial to use it. I got home and messed around a bit. Lychee does have it for the paid version. Chitubox free version puts a box around your object and displays the dimensions.
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Mar 30, 2022 22:56
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Got my Mono X up and kinda running last night. Going to print so many Tyranids. I started my Tyranid army in the mid to late '90s. Hopefully I finally finish the thing. Then I think I want to kitbash a space marine army of some flavor where every model is all Orks running around with ill-fitting looted armor pieces.
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May 18, 2022 20:41
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I use IPA instead of water but it should be the same basic principle I believe. Leave it in a windowsill or a porch or something for a few days where it can get direct sunlight. This cures all the particulates and they sink to the bottom. Carefully pour off the clean stuff, filter the rest and the resulting sludge is cured so it can be disposed of like any other plastic.
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May 19, 2022 03:04
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Why is scaling of models so bizarre? I'm going through an entire army, one leg/arm/torso/gun at a time and correcting stuff that's off by like 11% on this model, 20% on that one and so on. Seems really bizarre to make as close to table top accurate models as possible then have their scaling so wonky. Is there some reason that isn't readily apparent?
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May 20, 2022 12:11
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Which I would understand from one artist to another as a personal thing when they're working on their own lines. My confusion is in models that are explicitly "This is the Ultramarine Captain Mary Sue the Third, leader of the 5th Ultra-ness Battalion" and then if you print it out it's some random weirdness like 17% too big. It seems there's a part of the process I don't understand much, like, I dunno, all 3d scanning technology is imprecise or they're all actually sculpted by hand and made really big to allow details or something.
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May 20, 2022 16:47
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Marshal Prolapse posted:https://www.microcenter.com/site/content/specialoffer3dprinterinf.aspx#eduformdiv I still have mine sitting in a corner mostly unused from the last time. All my hobby money/time is going in to resin printing. Some day this thing will print out terrain and dice holders and other random stuff. Doesn't feel too bad though since I got it cheap.
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Jun 15, 2022 17:26
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So, dumb dumb question time. What does IPA actually do when it interacts with resin? Partially for curiosity, partially to improve some of my prints. It seems to be either diluting it if there's more IPA or turning it in to a halfway gummy substance if there's not. I've had a few prints that, even after curing the poo poo out of them, like half an hour in my UV chamber, the exterior feels like it has a thin rubbery layer on it instead of being like plastic. Pretty sure this interaction also put the final nail in a FEP's coffin that needed changing soon anyway but now it has me paranoid to clean my FEP with IPA at all.
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Jun 16, 2022 23:40
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I just finished my first complete print with no major flaws. One Biovore down, 1500 or so more points of Tyranids to go. This will complete an army that I started in roughly the mid-90s. ...already looking at other armies to print.
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Jun 23, 2022 03:16
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ScaerCroe posted:Maybe I am a goon, but that looks pretty good to me. You can make it work, things will print. It will also be extremely obvious at a moderate distance what the model is, and if you start trying to do really fiddly bits they'll be "meh" at best under perfect conditions.
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Jun 26, 2022 04:42
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So I guess my brain has been molded in to the shape of a resin printer. What makes supports not work well for FDM? Supports are how I view basically everything I print at the moment because it's all resin all the time until I get enough hobby money to dedicate to getting FDM printing going. If there's some lesson there to be learned, getting it now would be neat.
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Jul 21, 2022 17:01
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Doctor Zero posted:FDM doesn’t lend itself to thin supports, so they have to be large, and the hot filament tends to bond the model and the supports together. Oh, yeah that makes sense. So does FDM just have to be super on point with object geometry then to make up for it?
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Jul 21, 2022 18:52
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I just got a metal paint spatula scraper thingy from the closest hardware store. It has a sorta-sharp edge on it that I wiggle/push under a corner of the support raft. As soon as one bit lifts off the plate hold the scraper thingy flat against the plate and slide it the rest of the way under, everything pops off without issue from there. Takes like 5 seconds per print raft.
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Jul 21, 2022 23:05
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I'm planning to hollow out a Maleceptor just because of the weight savings. The main piece of the model attaches to the back legs at only one point then hangs off arms that go down to pointy claws. My plan is to rinse out the interior, cure it with an LED-on-a-stick through a drain hole in the bottom that I'll just leave there, masked a little bit by terrain. If I leave it a solid brick of resin the stupid thing will probably break itself.
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Jul 31, 2022 01:24
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I also super love that I can print models in one piece and then do things like submerge a hormagaunt's foot in the base a little and extend one claw to touch the base as well. The default model is secured by maaaybe 1 square mm of foot touching the base, and then is top heavy with no other point of contact out past that leverage. Mine have the rear "hoof" flat on the surface for more physical contact and then another point to alleviate the leverage. I like my models not breaking it's cool.
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Aug 8, 2022 20:48
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Search around on some of the more popular sites, the file probably already exists somewhere. What specifically is it? Goons are freakishly good at finding random weird stuff like that.
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Aug 18, 2022 23:16
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How do flex plates not turn in to a giant mess with resin being trapped between the magnets? I have drips frustratingly often with a solid metal build plate, not having used one it seems like a mess waiting to happen to be putting magnetized plates in to resin.
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Aug 19, 2022 17:46
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Doctor Zero posted:The magnet is strong enough that it holds the steel sheet tight. It won’t move under normal circumstances otherwise it would ruin the print. When taking the build plate off after a print I will tilt it at an angle and let it drip off in to the vat for 5 or 10 minutes. Then the second I manifest in this universe the thought of moving the plate again it will inevitably have one more drip that lands on my silicon mat. Seems like a magnetized plate would trap more resin between them and make that happen constantly.
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Aug 20, 2022 12:55
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Lumpy posted:Is 3D modeling for resin printing for "simple" things that are non-organic (ex: a gun swap on a 40k War Dog that is a single piece) basically making the thing the right size in Blender and export to STL? I watched this video (which was linked here a while back) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqDnLg3o9WE and it seems relatively straightforward, but was curious if anyone had any experience with it they could share. I'm pretty deep in noob territory as well. That said, I've already come across limitations in blender for actually producing a sculpt. Modifying existing files like resizing or moving components around or carving text in to them, it works great. The few projects I've made from ground up I start with more CAD-oriented programs and finish up in blender.
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Aug 24, 2022 17:38
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Pretty jealous of you peeps that have a place where you can print and use terrain. I had to do some finagling and spousal land-grabbing to even get a place to set up my print space. No room at all to set up a table and play at home.
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Aug 26, 2022 19:13
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Seeing my Tyranid army be slowly birthed out of a tank of goo feels very appropriate. Think Necrons might be next but my next major investment is an air brush for priming then back in to painting. So that's my story of a lot of successful printing.
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Oct 12, 2022 16:56
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IPA is cheaper and evaporates quickly.
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Oct 18, 2022 15:01
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The only place I can tell a difference on my prints is if you get a smooth gentle dome shape that happens to be at just the right angle to require layer lines graduating up and down the smooth surface, and even then I have to be like six inches away under specific light conditions looking directly for it. Anything resembling normal usage it's impossible.
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Oct 20, 2022 18:07
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boneration posted:Yeah I'm rapidly discovering that. Watched those two videos upthread and was kind of surprised that these things are advertised as being so carefree. Looks like I got some shopping and reading to do before I bust out some lasery goodness. Yeah it's really god drat wild that some of that poo poo is even allowed to exist. At a very basic level, it's a laser cutting things. You are a thing. One wrong angle and that laser has no qualms about cutting a different thing.
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Nov 6, 2022 00:27
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Prints separating from their supports and leaving teleporter accidents on the FEP are my largest source of failures by far. Any other tips than adding more supports at the point where an arm or whatever separated? That's all I'm doing now. Unless I want to go absolutely ape poo poo and encase the model in a support cocoon there's usually one or two trial runs on each new model I put together from whatever source I happen to be using. Getting better at spotting potential points and preemptively supporting them while still in Lychee, just curious if there's some obvious "well duh bird food click Option X and buy this widget." thing.
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Nov 19, 2022 16:31
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It just yesterday at work occurred to me that if I'm printing models I can spend 30 seconds in Blender doing one or two booleans and have my models come out printed with their barrels already drilled. I am both excited to have this done for me on every model and irritated at myself for not thinking of it sooner.
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Dec 3, 2022 13:32
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Blender was obtuse as poo poo at first, no arguments there. I just YouTube University'd it. Pick one specific thing I wanted to do, find a ten minute video on that specific thing and nothing else, and follow along. I couldn't tell you what 80-90% of the stuff in that program does, but it does everything I want it to do.
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Dec 3, 2022 21:26
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Lumpy posted:Is there a way to do auto-bracing (between supports) in Lychee? I can manually add them, but I wish to be lazy. There's a button specifically for this. At the end once I have every thing else done in prepare mode I select every support on the model. Under manual supports there is two buttons, Parent, and Bracings. I do parent first to remove extraneous columns entirely, then bracing to put braces between the remainders. For the supports themselves I tilt the model like 30-ish degrees off vertical, auto supports for the bulk of it, manually add heavy supports on the bottom for mechanical anchoring that auto does not account for, then go around and pile up mediums on areas where I feel there is likely to be more mechanical shear force than auto will account for like an arm or gun hanging out off the model at 90 degrees, then light supports on the top side for hair, spikes, claws at weird angles, whatever.
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Dec 11, 2022 10:32
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Doctor Zero posted:Oof. Heavy is overkill for anything other than vehicles and terrain. Shift that down, and you’ve got it (medium only on bottoms of feet or lower non visible surfaces, and light everywhere else). Mini supports on fine details like noses, fingers, hair, claws, etc). Your models won’t look like pox survivors that way. That's why heavy supports go on the bottom of their feet, or under a rib cage on half of a model that's going to get glued together or something like that. Totally sacrificial areas that don't show up. Makes drat sure right from the start the model is going to stay anchored, and any sort of thought put in to the placement means the effect on the outcome is meaningless.
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Dec 17, 2022 07:02
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Toebone posted:When printing minis and bases separately, do you prime each then glue, or glue first and then prime? I kinda cheat and don't do either. Litttle blobs of poster-tack-stuff in the places where glue needs to go, and after priming take the blobs off. I do this all over the model, wherever arms are going to glue to the torso or where a backpack will glue on the back, stuff like that. I don't have any solid evidence that glue can't fasten completely to the surface through a layer of primer but I've never wanted to test it.
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Dec 22, 2022 19:02
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BlackIronHeart posted:I use Blender, this is a 10 minute tutorial on how to do it and it works with the latest version of the program. Seconding Blender for this. Can't watch the video from work but it's probably similar to the one I learned off of. Blender makes custom cutting of models not too painful, and it's what I use when I want to cut/key models to print custom portions.
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Jan 10, 2023 14:21
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DarkAvenger211 posted:How do you resin printer users deal with ventilation/fumes? I love the quality of minis I can make but the thought of constantly dealing with those fumes (and the worry about how toxic it might be) really turns me off from using it. I've got a separate room where I leave it and an open window, but the smell still leaks through. I try to limit my printing these days to when I've got a whole bunch to do in one go but even then hassle is in dealing with all that is slowly overpowering my desire to actually print with it. I slapped together a box from construction leftovers of 2x4s, foil-backed foam, some gorilla glue and a piece of plexiglass I bought. Printer goes inside there, a hole I cut in the top for dryer vent hose and an in-line fan to a window adapter gives me what kinda sorta amounts to a fume hood. It's good enough to make a negative pressure chamber and force practically all of the smell outside when in operation. I never notice anything when it's operating. Opening and closing for starting/finishing a print it's not 100% because I have to open the box but it works pretty great overall. I also use it as my air brushing booth where it does the same thing. Printing minis with filament is easier with larger scale, harder with smaller. Just really no getting around the differences in layer heights between the two processes. Getting closer with some of the latest stuff but I think we're finding the end of that road pretty quick. I use Lychee slicer. It has a parenting/bracing function that merges nearby supports in to one "root" and then adds bracing between what's left.
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Jan 11, 2023 20:08
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DarkAvenger211 posted:Ah thanks. Yeah I kind of try to be overly cautious about it because I feel like I get conflicting information everywhere saying resin fumes are both completely safe, and also going to give me cancer or some poo poo. And since it's kind of a newish emerging hobby I'm having a hard time getting some concrete answers. Oh, no idea about filament. I'm printing a pile of shame to paint before I work on FDM for my terrain.
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Jan 11, 2023 21:10
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 05:39 |
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I really wish Lychee would show me *where* the holes are, or where a support is too close or touching. Just telling me they exist is not super helpful if they aren't auto fixed.
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Jan 12, 2023 04:28
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