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Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
their website says they're used, which looks like the big catch to the pricing.

*I* got a used farm printer (not from them) that had already had the common issues fixed for me, and I've been very happy with it. Luck of the draw, though.

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Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
The one task that has made me resort to manually supporting models is trying to get 25mm minis out of my ender

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
You can also get an ender 3 and print perfectly fine without that list of optional upgrades, if you want to

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:

GreenBuckanneer posted:

How hard is it to rip 3D models from old videogames to convert them into minis?

Is it easier/cheaper to commission someone to make 3D models and then do the other half of the legwork yourself?

the difficulty will utterly vary by video game. anything that's the right mix of easy and popular is already on thingiverse. a lot of star trek ship models, for example, are just straight rips to STL from star trek online, that has bad geometry and only prints by luck, but it absolutely works

if you can extract a model file from the game's data, and if you can open it in SOMETHING that can export to obj/stl, your odds of achieving at LEAST that much success are good

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
Are you printing with the random filament that came with the printer? Old, wet PLA will print like dogshit in the manner you're experiencing, even if it is a known good brand.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
Allegedly you can dry it in an oven. I have not tried this but can imagine resorting to it while waiting for amazon to ship something

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
That skeleton is roughly the worst imaginable shape to try and print in FDM, even with pristine high quality filament. That it came out AT ALL suggests the printer is tuned up ok already, +/- one car ride's worth of bed leveling

e: you said it's an ender 3 pro. if it still has the plastic extruder, throw a metal one in your order with the filament, as the plastic ones will WILL eventually do this, which is not externally visible and will silently gently caress up your prints until you get mad enough to disassemble the fucker:



I don't see evidence of this issue in your pictures but it's a known flaw worth mentioning

Javid fucked around with this message at 12:59 on Mar 20, 2023

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
I had never seen diarrhea-colored filament before, is it glow in the dark or something

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:

Phantombane posted:

Are there any services/shops that are generally recommended?

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3931600 does the kind of printing you're looking for and their prices are reasonable

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
You make those by buying some UV LEDs off amazon and wiring one to a power source. It is the absolute least complicated electronics project in the universe.

If I were to try to make one, I'd order some 3-5 volt LEDs and solder one onto a sacrificial USB cable. Maybe maybe if I felt fancy I'd print a battery case instead.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
It's a matter of changing a 100 in the slicer to 78.125 or whatever

Scaling the 32 down to 25 might work. Scaling the 50 arbitrarily bigger will almost certainly work

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
Yeah that looks.. extremely not hard to just directly copy if nobody will take money for them anymore

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
As an anecdata point, printing indoors with full A/C in a dryish area, I have not had an opened roll of PLA get so stale I was unable to print with it.

Offer probably not valid in Florida.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:

Eediot Jedi posted:

incredibly suspicious of this tiny list after doing resin printing :v:

if you have only messed with resin printing it sounds like bullshit, but fdm prints just end and there is a dry clean plastic thing you can peel off the build plate and touch with your skin

I barely have any printer-specific tools in my kit vs things I already had that I just keep one of by the printer now, like allen keys or clippers or a jug of iso. there is one wallet-sized box of nozzles and nozzle-related flotilla that would not exist if I did not have a printer, but it's a neat enough plastic box I might have collected it like a magpie if I saw it at a junk store ANYWAY so that's vaguely a wash

What you'll have are spools. Sometimes you only want 5 kg of plastic, but the price breaks so hard at 10 kg that, if you know you'll use it, it's stupid to not pay the extra $7 for 5 more rolls, and then you're a smart guy with a minecraft house of filament boxes in his living room

Javid fucked around with this message at 10:47 on Nov 23, 2023

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:

Ropes4u posted:

Is there Buy / Sell thread I cant find? I need a couple sets of shoulder pads and a heavy bolter for a couple Heavy Intercessor bodies I have..

If you mean you want printing services, https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3931600

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
you mean this stuff?



in fdm at any reasonable scale I would not expect to. you're talking about resin, so I don't know for YOU, but the standard way to check is to crop the model down to that rectangle and throw it in as a test print and see what you get

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
Not personally familiar with that printer, but the hot end



looks like it works roughly the same way as mine, for which I have a better internal diagram:



The mess in your photo looks exactly like what happens to this thing when the nozzle and heatbreak tube are not tight against each other at the location circled above. Some of the plastic squirts around the upper threads and out all over the heat block.

Carefully picking off that plastic booger without damaging any wires, and getting the hang of properly tightening those little fuckers, is an FDM rite of passage, so welcome, comrade

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:

Southern Heel posted:

Is there some of your setting that would make filament printers print oversize? I’m aware of the additional exposure that can cause that in SLA printer….

There's a flow setting that could do this, yes

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:

that picture looks like you're using a really low percentage square/zigzag infill pattern, which the top layer is having trouble bridging. Cranking that up so the filament is being pulled across many smaller gaps instead of having to make it like an inch across to the next infill line would probably solve your problem. more top layers, as stated above, would also help with this

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
Printables has absolute shitgobs of them, though a lot of them are bitcoin-related garbage (but may still be useful to you)

https://www.printables.com/search/models?q=coin

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Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:

IncredibleIgloo posted:

I only print in resin and PLA. Is there a material for fdm printers that is dense, like clay poker chips? The heft of currency is a thing I like and preventing me from printing out custom game things.

hot cocoa on the couch posted:

leaving a cavity for a steel insert is probably the easiest way to do this. it's how i base my miniatures generally. i do a ~2 mm thick square base (depending on the ruleset, something like 40x40 or so) and leave space for a 5 cent piece to be CA glued in afterward

I do this but with lead pellets. This may not be useful for printing coin-sized objects, but more generally if I want to weight a base or whatever.

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