|
^^^ Yeah 3D printing is going to kill reaper more than anyone. Their claim to fame is incredible variety but 3D printing covers that and more with dramatically increased quality. Bones Kickstarters are still going to be a good deal but I can't imagine them selling minis for $3 when you can get something resin printed off eBay.Verisimilidude posted:I've been very busy printing and painting these Valour Korps models from The Makers Cult. They're easily the best prints I've ever had to work with. The models themselves are fantastic and their presupported models actually work straight out of the box for me. Plenty of other STL companies with presupported prints fail horribly or make really weird decisions like angling the front of the model towards the build plate. These always work perfectly (minor critical errors on my part) and look fantastic. Highly recommend them! Ha, I saw the post a bit up and thought "I need to track that poster down." EDIT: Tracked down your method in the other thread. That's awesome. Ohthehugemanatee fucked around with this message at 17:52 on May 31, 2021 |
# ¿ May 31, 2021 17:30 |
|
|
# ¿ May 22, 2024 14:48 |
|
Koramei posted:I'm asking this entirely for selfish reasons (I'm hoping to sell my own STLs in the relatively near future), but does anyone have an idea of how notable the people behind some of those Patreons were before they launched? Some of them are making kind of striking amounts of money but it doesn't look like most of them have much of a social media presence to have kicked it off. Are people just finding them through word of mouth because of their quality, or were most of them already notable in gaming circles beforehand or something? I don't think they were super notable. I found my favorite sculptor (Forest Dragon) because their stuff happened to be in a well produced game rulebook. I know indie game designers often need cool pictures of well painted minis. The guy behind Five Parsecs has solicited pictures before. Personally, an example of a well painted miniature will get me to hunt down it's creator. Bland looking STL files are so common I almost never give them a second thought.
|
# ¿ Jun 9, 2021 03:19 |
|
Eediot Jedi posted:It's fair in that those machines all have the same pixels per inch, what I was calling xy resolution, so it makes sense there's no quality difference. You're thinking of Forest Dragon. His stuff is amazing. Sadly he pulled the plug on his patreon pulling in 10k a month and now everything is on Gumroad.
|
# ¿ Jun 21, 2021 00:52 |
|
Question for printer folks. I live in the Northern US and poo poo gets cold, which is doubly a problem when you don't want a resin printer indoors. I could probably make a very expensive ventilation system and set it up indoors but even that would be a hard sell. I was wondering what people thought about setting up a printer outside in a plastic deck box. I was thinking something like this, with a heater thrown inside that might let me print if it isn't too cold. My main concerns are 1) This seems like the sort of DIY genius that starts fires 2) It might be impossible to actually heat this thing without insulating it which uh... see #1 and 3) I'm not sure how aggravating it would be to be moving a resin printer in and out of doors and how much re-calibration would be needed with each move.
|
# ¿ Feb 23, 2023 15:58 |
|
I'm going to add "forgot that the sun exists" to my list of DiY planning mistakes.
|
# ¿ Feb 23, 2023 17:32 |
|
I have a Mars 2 which has been incredibly reliable for months, and has just started having weird print failures. Everything on the middle of the plate has poor adherence and what does adhere is bizarrely unformed. So supports are sometimes there on the plate but they just dwindle up to nothing, and the base resin that should be holding everything up is thin and at times curled up. I've never seen anything like it before. The stuff on the outside seems to print fine. Everything has normal thickness and is the usual high quality. If Xs are areas that print well, my plate looks like this: XX00000XX X0000000X X0000000X XX00000XX I've leveled, cleaned carefully, scraped down the plate, done an exposure test and still seen the logo.... Is this just what screen failure looks like? Edit: My other thought is that things have been much more humid and my printer sits outside, so it's possible the resin has been affected. Ohthehugemanatee fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Jun 27, 2023 |
# ¿ Jun 27, 2023 19:32 |
|
w00tmonger posted:Could be issues with the fep That's what it was. I didn't think about it, but I printed a series of models with a major suction cup effect and I think it just deformed the FEP over time. New sheet and everything seems to be fine. Thanks folks.
|
# ¿ Jul 1, 2023 18:10 |
|
I built a 3'x3'ish box out of 1.5 inch XPS foam (the pink sheets they use for insulation), with two edges kept separate as an L-shaped cover that fits on tightly to seal in the space. I keep my resin printer inside along with a cheap space heater set to shut off at ~75 degrees. That works to print outside at -10 so I suspect if would work well inside too.
|
# ¿ Jul 8, 2023 22:40 |
|
Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:I have only used water washable resins so far, and been generally amazed at the detail I could get out of it, once I learned how to clean things properly. I only printed 28mm scale minis as the smallest so far though, I have no idea if 6mm would come out well - tbf I have noticed some shrinkage, like some swords or rods come out really thin, but no cracking, with everything printed solid. I learned you should never try to do hollow with water washable resin at least, as it's harder to flush out uncured stuff from inside than with standard resin. Oh my loving god. I just assumed something was off and I just had to level my plate every other print.
|
# ¿ Sep 24, 2023 22:10 |
|
WarEternal posted:This probably isn't a viable thing to get into if I live in the northeast and the only place I have to put it is my cold-rear end basement, where I'd still need to vent it somehow because it sits below my room, right? I'm trying to talk myself out of it, lol. I live in Minnesota and mine sits outside in a 3 foot cube made of xps foam (the hard pink sheets you can get at Home Depot). There’s a space heater in there with it. I’ve had no issues printing when it’s below zero. Just have to be thoughtful about the sun when accessing it.
|
# ¿ Nov 21, 2023 05:48 |
|
Does anyone have a go to STL editor? I use chitubix to do some combination and plane cuts, but it can’t do much more than that and specifically will only cut on a plane which gets clumsy. I also have a basic familiarity with Blender, but that program is an opaque mess. I guarantee it can do what I want it to do, but it’s going to take hours of suffering to figure out. What I really want is something that will give me the digital equivalent of a wire cutting tool. I want to be able to make organic shaped cuts to remove elements for remixing. So slicing riders off mounts, limbs and weapons. Anyone have any recommendations?
|
# ¿ Jan 4, 2024 14:55 |
|
|
# ¿ May 22, 2024 14:48 |
|
Honestly, I’m not sure printing that makes sense. Coins are hard shapes to print. If I were doing that, I’d try to hunt down a set of coins from a cheap currency that look cool, since coins are somewhat hilariously always the cheapest source of small round circular objects. There are also tons of cheap toy coins on Amazon or Ali Express.
|
# ¿ Mar 19, 2024 14:23 |