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That looks awesome. I wish we had the same sort of places here!
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Jun 16, 2021 23:27
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| # ? May 12, 2024 10:50 |
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Yeah, public land and national forests are things the US got very, very right. It's one of the reasons hunting is not a rich man's sport in the states. For those not familiar with US National Forests, they are separate from the National Parks that you've heard about like Yosemite and Yellowstone. National Parks have a ton of visitors, and therefore have a lot of rules and regulations to keep people from destroying the place. So you can't run around shooting guns, camping wherever you feel like, you gotta pay to get in, etc. National Parks are pretty intensively managed. But for every acre of National Park, there are 3-4 acres of National Forest, which are managed by a totally different department in the federal government. National Forests are managed by the Department of Agriculture, in part as an agricultural resource. There are rules, but they are much more relaxed. For example, you can't cut down trees. But you can collect dead and down wood for use in the forest (e.g. for a campfire). And if you need wood to heat your home, you can get a permit to take wood home for personal use. Price probably varies by area, but in Lassen NF it's $10/1,000kg (limit 10,000 kg). The fees and permits are more to prevent abuse than raise revenue. It's public land, for the people. Total size of our national forests is 188M acres, or about 20% larger than France. Then there's another 245M acres managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), which is similarly lightly regulated for public use.
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Jun 17, 2021 05:39
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Oh poo poo, I just had an intriguing/alarming idea! You know how some modern cars can modulate the brakes to do fake-limited slip with an open diff? Several times when I've been stuck, something like that would have easily gotten me free. Usually this is when the van is teetering on a diagonal, e.g. all the weight on the front-left and rear-right tires, so the front-right tire just spins. If I could brake just that spinning wheel, I could put power down to the front-left tire that has all the traction. So, what can I do with line locks? The parts seem cheap enough to experiment with. OTOH, brakes are important and maybe I shouldn't gently caress with them. Hmmm.
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Jun 17, 2021 11:29
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Set one up inline on each drive wheel with a button you hold to lock. Pump brakes, hold button, apply gas. I would also think those drift style hydraulic brake handles but split left/right could work. You could feather a side then. That would do a RF/LR split and LF/RR if you just tied it into the existing system.
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Jun 17, 2021 12:15
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I actually bought a stack of Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ abs units to experiment with doing exactly that. They're just banks of solenoids that can drain fluid out of the cylinder or allow the user to put more in plus a pump to put the drained fluid back into the reservoir. They default to the bypass, regular manual brakes routing when unpowered. So I figured I could add a microcontroller to monitor wheel speeds and driveshaft speed, route the line for a given driven axle to the front and rear inputs, each wheel to a front or rear output, and PWM the cylinder drain solenoids to maintain the same rpm on the faster wheel as the driveshaft + gears would suggest. Just step on the brakes and gas and go. (And flip the power switch off once you don't need it, or even use a dead man's switch on the shifter so you have to hold it down to enable it.) I never finished the project as used lockers for my platform became more and more affordable and once they were around 100 bucks my time started seeming more valuable than DIYing an ETC system. I still have 3 or 4 with one torn apart, I wonder if they'll fit in a flat rate box.
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Jun 17, 2021 12:17
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I don't know which is more ridiculous, fitting the minivan with drag racing parts, or fitting it with drifting parts! Do you have a link to any docs on those abs units? I don't know much about CAN, but I can pulse solenoids all day long.
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Jun 17, 2021 12:21
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You're in luck, no canbus involved. The WJ used Chrysler PCI which is just their version of j1850, but given how little I could find on the MCU in the thing I was going to roll my own board from scratch. This was well before Arduino hit the diy world, you could probably do it with one of those now. The WJ one is covered partway down the page, there's even a hydraulic diagram. https://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_teves_mk20.htm
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Jun 17, 2021 12:24
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ryanrs posted:Oh poo poo, I just had an intriguing/alarming idea! Use pressure on the parking brake and you can get the same effect.
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Jun 17, 2021 15:51
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The Sienna is front-wheel drive, so I don't think the parking brake would help in that situation.
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Jun 17, 2021 16:02
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honda whisperer posted:Set one up inline on each drive wheel with a button you hold to lock. Pump brakes, hold button, apply gas. I was thinking a couple of drift brake handles would be awesome.
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Jun 17, 2021 17:13
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So do hydraulic e-brakes need secondary brake calipers? They don't work with the existing brake system, right? e: nvm, I see how they work inline. Lol the diagram I found joins the two diagonal hydraulic circuits. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Jun 18, 2021 |
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Jun 18, 2021 05:04
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ryanrs posted:So do hydraulic e-brakes need secondary brake calipers? They don't work with the existing brake system, right? The logistics of routing your brake lines in to two different hydro brakes inside is going to be a right pain in the rear end. It will look cool AF, of course. Electric line locks may be a simpler solution as someone up thread mentioned. Hold the brakes down, engage one of two locks, and see if you can drive off. They're not cheap, but less than the hydros.
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Jun 18, 2021 05:31
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OK, I see what you guys are getting at. Now I'm imagining driving with one hand on the wheel and the other yanking on the twin e-brakes to direct torque to the right wheels. You could keep up your momentum in a way that would be impossible with line locks. If this actually works halfway decently, it will be extremely loving cool. It looks like the Sienna's proportioning valve is built into the ABS actuator. Two lines go in from the master cylinder, and four lines go out to the calipers. So you'd stick hydraulic e-brakes between the ABS actuator and the front calipers. StormDrain posted:The logistics of routing your brake lines in to two different hydro brakes inside is going to be a right pain in the rear end. It will look cool AF, of course. The 1st gen Sienna has a pretty large flat floor space between the two front seats. There's no tunnel and no center console. It might be an ideal vehicle to install side-by-side e-brakes. The stock parking brake uses a little pedal and a cable, so there's no interference there.  Can I use flexible braided brake lines to route to the e-brakes, or does it need to be hardline/mostly hardline?
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Jun 18, 2021 08:34
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Not gonna lie, I was looking for Siennas when I was car shopping. Couldn't find one in decent shape for under $3k, though. So I wound up with a cop car. Might even be better for dirt roads/trails though, I know you can get body and suspension lift kits for them, and it's a body on frame car...  There's one with a 3 inch lift + all terrain tires for sale about 3 hours from me, so I know it's doable.
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Jun 18, 2021 16:39
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STR posted:So I wound up with a cop car. Sounds cool, what kind of cop car?
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Jun 18, 2021 17:23
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ryanrs posted:So do hydraulic e-brakes need secondary brake calipers? I mean, that is an option. ChrisFix went that route on his drift Mustang - the regular braking system is still in place and unmodified. There's a hand-operated master cylinder on the center console, feeding fluid to a second pair of calipers on the rear wheels. The tricky thing would be figuring out how to package all of that on a front wheel.
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Jun 18, 2021 17:27
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That's going to be especially hard with the steering linkage connecting to one side of the knuckle.
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Jun 18, 2021 17:29
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Just convert it to rwd. But then gently caress it, it's already fwd. Fwd+ rwd= 4wd
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Jun 18, 2021 17:37
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Snowy posted:Sounds cool, what kind of cop car? The last of the body on frame cars.  (P71 Crown Victoria)
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Jun 18, 2021 17:54
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Just convert it to rwd. But then gently caress it, it's already fwd. Fwd+ rwd= 4wd This math checks out.
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Jun 18, 2021 18:20
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ryanrs posted:Oh poo poo, I just had an intriguing/alarming idea! Entirely possible. Rover implemented this in 1999. A long time ago when I gave a gently caress about Rovers I built a retrofit to install the '99+ units into the earlier rovers. It worked, and worked far better than it has any right to. There's some trickery involved and you need to know how the ABS module works. There's typically two circuits operated by solenoids, apply, and release. Each wheel will have one, sometimes so will both master circuits. What you want to do is override the apply solenoids without overheating the respective brake. iirc Rover would pwm that specific wheel for ~60 seconds with a ~90 second lockout to avoid melting the brake down. Add some safety features to your project by limiting its operating speeds to sub 30mph, switch lockouts, etc. Rover ran this system up to 65mph. Worth seeing if tundras/sequoias/landcruisers get similar hardware and try to graft their parts into the Sienna.
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Jun 18, 2021 18:27
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 Dear AI, The front fell off. I'm not saying the van can't drive over saplings, it can. But doing it repeatedly and in reverse was perhaps pushing my luck. So here are the options I've been considering on the drive home: 1) Reattach bumper cover, but with sheetmetal screws not the dumb plastic tabs. Just gonna zip them into the sheet metal and hope I don't hit the wiring harness, I guess. 2) Leave it off. Maybe also remove the grille with the Toyota logo, which is attached with zip ties. Add LED lightbar to fill up the space? Downside is the radiator looks super exposed to rocks and sticks:  I should draw some teeth on that bumper bar. 3) Fabricated bumper. While these are cool (and $$$), they are really heavy (100 lbs?). The big selling point seems to be for installing a winch, which is also really heavy. I feel like I have my winching situation sorted, so a heavy fabricated bumper doesn't have a lot of appeal. Strong recovery points would be good, though. 4) Some kinda half-rear end grille from the bumper bar down to the bottom of the chin, where the skid plate starts. Maybe just heavy expanded metal? It's mostly to keep loose rocks and vegetation from loving up the radiator. Needs to retain airflow.
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Jun 23, 2021 05:25
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Prerunner style front bumper. Edit:it'll have to be custom built obviously. Not much more than a couple of tubes and some tabs for KC Hi Lights. 
StormDrain fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Jun 23, 2021 |
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Jun 23, 2021 05:35
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i think it looks pretty good just as it is. imo stick some mesh and supports diagonally between the bumper bar and the bottom of the radiator support, and paint it all black so it doesn't stand out.
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Jun 23, 2021 07:42
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I vote for #1, trimming the bottom slightly, or Stormdrains prerunner idea.
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Jun 23, 2021 13:22
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If you reattach I wouldn't use stronger hardware, it'll probably just damage the bumper when it comes off the next time. Let the zip ties or plastic hardware be sacrificial. See what the drifting community does. 
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Jun 23, 2021 14:04
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Prerunner idea is best, but zip ties is for real the best. I'd be real nervous about rocks and sticks running as is. A risk that's entirely in your control as a general rule but still...
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Jun 23, 2021 16:26
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I'd guard the radiator with some heavy expanded steel and maybe spray bomb it all the same color as the body so it doesn't stick out so bad, then run it.
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Jun 23, 2021 16:42
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I like zipties, and they are currently holding other parts of the van together. But adding strong front recovery points is a big point in favor of the prerunner bumper. The factory tiedown loops are not strong enough. I have bent them just from winching the van out of a ditch (by hand!). Would the prerunner style bumper bolt up in place of the black bumper beam that is there now?
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Jun 23, 2021 17:31
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You'd have to fabricate it yourself or have the shop that did the skidplate do it, so... Maybe? Probably going to be hard to visualize how it will mount until the factory one is off and you can see the structure better. Maybe pull one at the junkyard so you can look at the body mounting areas without making yours non roadworthy?
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Jun 23, 2021 17:45
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Once my other car is back from the shop, I'll remove the bumper bar and take some pics.
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Jun 23, 2021 17:49
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Raluek posted:i think it looks pretty good just as it is. imo stick some mesh and supports diagonally between the bumper bar and the bottom of the radiator support, and paint it all black so it doesn't stand out. kastein posted:I'd guard the radiator with some heavy expanded steel and maybe spray bomb it all the same color as the body so it doesn't stick out so bad, then run it. There you go. That, and some recovery hooks solidly attached to the unibody.
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Jun 23, 2021 19:18
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Don't know if you've posted anything about it, but if that van has the later version of the 1MZ-FE with variable valve timing then you should be sure it's got a good timing belt on it, as those are interference where the non VVT 1MZ's aren't. Wikipedia says they started with the regular 1MZ and then changed mid generation. The VVT version of the engine has a wider valve cover to make space for the cam phaser. The wiki article for the MZ engine shows a photo of a non VVT 1MZ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_MZ_engine 3MZ shown here with the wide valve cover https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPomqc7JsjI I have a 2004 2nd gen Sienna with a 3MZ and it's way, way faster than any minivan has any right to be. The 3MZ-FE combined with the U151E transaxles' extremely silly 4.235:1 first gear ratio means it moves' it's big fat rear end just as fast as you want it to.
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Jun 23, 2021 20:08
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Timing belt was done at 90k. Van currently has 150k, due for another timing belt at 180k. Mine is a 2000, so no VVT (dunno about the trans ratios). For normal driving it has always been fast enough. It has a lot of power for a minivan. But... Last weekend I driving in Mendocino NF, I crested a hill and juuust started down the other side when I realized it was too steep and I wouldn't be able to get back up. I shifted into reverse, but the van didn't have enough power to reverse 6 inches and un-commit from the descent. WOT, but zero movement. gently caress. The van was loaded with gear, but no firewood and no other passengers, so it's not as if it was overloaded. This was a hard-packed dirt road and the van was pointing downhill, so the front suspension was very compressed. Traction was not an issue. But I floored it in reverse and it wasn't able to climb out. I almost needed the winch, but was able to inch it back with a combo of high dthrottle/dt from really stomping the pedal, and turning off the A/C. I think with the stock tire size I wouldn't have had nearly as much problem. I think in my head I was expecting the torque converter to be more useful here. With a manual I could have played clutch games and inched it back. I guess I could have tried a neutral drop, but it didn't come to that. I could have unloaded some gear, too. I'm not sure what the solution is, but probably something like "don't do that or you will find yourself winching a van by hand in 100F heat".
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Jun 23, 2021 21:50
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ryanrs posted:Timing belt was done at 90k. Van currently has 150k, due for another timing belt at 180k. Install smaller wheels? Seriously, don't know what you could do about that. Since I think this is the same V6 used in Camrys, there may be a supercharger bolt-on kit that TRD released. Yes, there is: https://www.jonbondperformance.com/product/97-00-toyota-camry-3-0l-supercharger-remanufacture-rebuild/ Toyota Camry, Sienna, Solara 3.0L MP62 Supercharger Remanufacture / Rebuild $825.00
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Jun 23, 2021 23:04
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Comedy option just a little nitrous.
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Jun 23, 2021 23:09
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VideoGameVet posted:Yes, there is: https://www.jonbondperformance.com/product/97-00-toyota-camry-3-0l-supercharger-remanufacture-rebuild/
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Jun 23, 2021 23:15
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Krakkles posted:I was about to say that’s the cheapest supercharger I’ve ever seen, but that’s for a rebuild service on a supercharger you send them. Yep. Hit the junk yards.
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Jun 23, 2021 23:29
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ryanrs posted:I'm not sure what the solution is, but probably something like "don't do that or you will find yourself winching a van by hand in 100F heat". I would definitely buy a winch, mount it on a receiver mount, and install receivers on both ends of the van with quick connect cables, if I didn't want one permanently mounted. This dinkus: https://www.harborfreight.com/hitch-receiver-mount-for-winches-69106.html And use a receiver hitch or weld in a receiver tube: https://www.harborfreight.com/class-iii-12-in-x-2-in-standard-receiver-tube-69879.html (That's a 12"  - also comes in 18")
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Jun 23, 2021 23:37
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| # ? May 12, 2024 10:50 |
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Plus you can put a d ring in there to use as a tow hook until you have a winch. HF d ring
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Jun 23, 2021 23:42
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