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honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Set one up inline on each drive wheel with a button you hold to lock. Pump brakes, hold button, apply gas.

I would also think those drift style hydraulic brake handles but split left/right could work. You could feather a side then. That would do a RF/LR split and LF/RR if you just tied it into the existing system.

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honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Comedy option just a little nitrous.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

I would love to see this thing with a snorkel. I feel like I can always tell the stuff that actually off-roads vs the stuff that doesn't and a snorkel on the real ones is awesome.

Also, idk how well this would work, but strap a tiny war boy action figure in front of the snorkel and spray the nitrous from his mouth into it.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

ryanrs posted:

Hydraulic E-brake Talk

Apparently competitive 4x4s sometimes install a thing called a cutting brake to individually brake the RL or RR wheels. Here's Wilwood's cutting brake. It's cool that both sides are integrated into a single lever, but I'm not going to tie my redundant brake circuits together like that. I need separate inlets.

For the dual-lever setup, I'm thinking this vertical lever and this master cylinder.

This is the closest reference I could find for Sienna brake line psi. It's in one of the inspection procedures for the brake proportioning valve.


Based on those couple numbers and some wild speculation, I'm guessing "hard braking" is 1,000+ psi, and for torque vectoring I will be using more like 200-400 psi, i.e. before the proportioning valve starts splitting front vs rear unequally.

And arm force should be, uh, maybe 10 lbf?

10 lbf arm force * 11:1 lever ratio / master cylinder area = psi
code:
master cyl dia, brake psi @ 10lbf
0.50, 560
0.62, 364
0.70, 286
0.75, 249
0.81, 213
So maybe 0.62" master cylinders? I need to go sit in the van with a tape measure to check fitment.

So is the plan to have stand alone masters for each corner and tie into the front lines?

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Raluek posted:

The one that I've always seen recommended here, which I was planning on buying for myself when it comes time to do brakes in the spring, is OEM 24364, :20bux: at autozone.

Was recommended this for my civic and was tickled pink using it. It makes single or double flares.

I wound up buying a similar looking one that did bubble flares as well but it sucked. Worked, but was just so poorly made.

I've done -3 an single flare brake stuff years ago iirc. It was the easiest thing but that's all I remember.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

ryanrs posted:

Hydraulic Handbrakes

Mounted on plywood to test fit.


Looks amazing.


Testing the ergonomics.




Thank you for the excellent idea!

This is so awesome I'm glad I could help.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

For those rubber mats it depends on how miserable it is to get out. If it looks easy I'll poke a small hole and center punch through it so I can cut a hole out of the car and have it line up with where I drill.

If it looks like a pain to remove or will get torn up in the attempt I'll cut a square out with a razor blade.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

You need one of each? I'd need rough overall dimensions but that looks like something I could knock out on a Saturday pretty easy.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

This is the best thread.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

That's what I was wondering too and was about to post. I would definitely try just unplugging a sensor (drive if necessary to trip the light) and reconnect and test it before doing any wiring.

I would recommend making sure the abs does work even if the light goes out. Its probably good but computer programs can be touchy.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

When I worked on cars for a living anyone who brought anything to eat or drink got "drops mic" pull that in right now how can I help service.

What you listed will be more than fine.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Definitely get the rubber style, way less likely to break off if it rubs something.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Elephanthead posted:

Yeah but only 210 kph

I guess we'll have to cancel the grass only any % Nuremberg speed run.

Serious answer: there's got to be a version that would work and haul rear end while having a rubber stem.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

I'd rate the wheel bearing making noise as an asap repair. It's a part that either works perfectly or starts eating itself as soon as it doesn't.

Wheel falls off is probably pretty far out but it will start making ever increasing amounts of heat and it will pump that heat into the axle and brakes.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Maybe ask in the great outdoors / camping thread? Or take the thread on tour.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Drain will help a lot and that doesn't look to horrible. Make sure you put the plug back in before you drop it, and be ready for a sudden weight shift when it starts to move. Once one corner drops any remaining gas will head for the low spot and start to throw it's balance off. With the drain it won't be bad but it will happen.

What I can't tell is if you'll have to drop it a little to disconnect anything. If you can get it all unplugged before lowering great. If not you'll want a helper to keep it balanced on the jack while you disconnect whatever's left.

I got to watch a pickup do half a front flip of a lift one time when the full gas tank got unbolted.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Put it on hinges so you can say "check out my sweet grill" before you flip it forward and make dinner.

Serious note, looks good. Metal fab is fun and satisfying isn't it?

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Tube notching is a huge pain and yeah it's all prep.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Very nice. Having a welder is great isn't it?

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

How thick is it? Propane or mapp might do 1/8" slowly but that's a big heatsink. Oxy acetylene if you have it would be quick. Can't hurt to try if option b is cut it off.

Heat it till it's barely orange and it should move easily with some hammering.

Quenching idk. The blacksmithing thread has all the metallurgy nerds.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Those welds look great.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

You're an absolute madman. I love it.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Helicoil. You'll need a helicoil tool and tap long enough to reach through all that stuff, or get stuff out of the way.

Technically you're supposed to drill oversize then tap but I've had good luck just going in with the new tap very gently. Like 1/4 turn at a time.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Hoist would work.

Option b is this
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

Depends on how it's mounted but it's probably all off the subframe so will need some kind of support.

I'd get a hoist if there's garage space for it. Useful for all kinds of stuff.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

ryanrs posted:

Breaking your car then fixing it is the essence of motorsport.

And if it doesn't break drill more holes in it.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

ryanrs posted:

Ugh, tapping this hole is unnerving. I keep telling myself that a 5/8" tap is actually really loving strong, as long as I drive it straight and don't put undue side loads on it. I have a 11" tap wrench, which is probably slightly too small.

I am about 2 turns from finishing tapping. I am using cutting wax. Tomorrow I'm going to measure the hole very carefully, to verify I am not going to bottom out. Then I'll grunt the tap home.

My inclination at this point is to get a cap CNCed from billet. But that is a project for the holidays.

Make me a print or 3d model and I can whip that up on a Saturday.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

On doing tie rods while you're in there, no matter what you do you'll need an alignment after. Weigh the parts cost vs another alignment when one goes bad.

One possibly cheap light and handy tool would be a pair of toe plates, or something that would work like them.

https://www.amazon.com/Longacre%C2%AE-Racing-Aluminum-Plates-Magnets/dp/B000VAOHB2

It'll get you very close. Not perfect milage from your tires on the highway close but more than enough for off roading.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Yeah, it'll be a bent wheel level hit. If it just bends you can adjust it out. If the joint pops you're stuck.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Off road minivan: your parts are being bent

It works on many levels.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

I mean still in business with that website? Probably really good at it.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

ryanrs posted:

Just 'Ryan'.

CNC A/C plate cost breakdown:
$130 base part
+65 add the 'R'
+25 anodize red
+40 expedite fee during Chinese Lunar New Year
+20 shipping
+20 tax
----------------
= $300

Goddamn, it better not leak.

If it does PM me. I'll have to charge for red but black can be free if it goes with another shipment to anodize.

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honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Oh no! Sorry to hear that.

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