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Ground floor on this one. I wonder if anyone makes a good limited slip or lunchbox locker for your differential? Though that would likely be prohibitively expensive and annoying to install given the expected lifespan of the vehicle.
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Mar 7, 2021 07:40
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ryanrs posted:No! Stop trying to make the Sienna good offroad. It's already "good enough" and it will never be great. 13 years ago, I should have taken this advise, but I bought a series of sub-$2400 (mostly sub-$1000, actually) shitbox Jeeps instead. So lockers it was. I just figured you might be interested in the idea for your van - for example my front auto locker was $180 and bolts into the factory diff carrier in about an hour, though yours is much more inaccessible. As expected though I see zero difflock or lsd options for your trans, so it's a moot point.
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Mar 7, 2021 18:12
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If you haven't found this out already, junkyards are an ideal place to do research like that because you can bring a cordless drill and go HAM on the interior of some wrecked shitbox like yours and drill a bunch of holes in it for exploratory purposes without anyone giving a poo poo.
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Mar 8, 2021 01:59
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My personal favorites from the last time I was in your area are the Spence and Moss Landing PicknPull locations, mostly because they had a lot of cool old trucks and Jeeps, but the 1065 Commercial St yard in SJ and 7400 Mowry in Newark are probably more convenient for you. They were alright too.
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Mar 8, 2021 02:50
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SJ south is gone now?! drat, I grabbed a bunch of radio antenna crap off some auctioned cop cars there in 2015.
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Mar 8, 2021 03:48
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That could very easily be sputtering flame with every drop, you just can't see it. ATF is one of the more concerning things to have leaking from a car, right behind power steering fluid and gas. I'd find a way to check if it's actually catching fire.
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Mar 9, 2021 00:47
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Man I wouldn't go near that poo poo. I don't even want the dust on my car, I gotta work on that thing sometimes.
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Mar 9, 2021 14:56
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I actually bought a stack of Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ abs units to experiment with doing exactly that. They're just banks of solenoids that can drain fluid out of the cylinder or allow the user to put more in plus a pump to put the drained fluid back into the reservoir. They default to the bypass, regular manual brakes routing when unpowered. So I figured I could add a microcontroller to monitor wheel speeds and driveshaft speed, route the line for a given driven axle to the front and rear inputs, each wheel to a front or rear output, and PWM the cylinder drain solenoids to maintain the same rpm on the faster wheel as the driveshaft + gears would suggest. Just step on the brakes and gas and go. (And flip the power switch off once you don't need it, or even use a dead man's switch on the shifter so you have to hold it down to enable it.) I never finished the project as used lockers for my platform became more and more affordable and once they were around 100 bucks my time started seeming more valuable than DIYing an ETC system. I still have 3 or 4 with one torn apart, I wonder if they'll fit in a flat rate box.
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Jun 17, 2021 12:17
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You're in luck, no canbus involved. The WJ used Chrysler PCI which is just their version of j1850, but given how little I could find on the MCU in the thing I was going to roll my own board from scratch. This was well before Arduino hit the diy world, you could probably do it with one of those now. The WJ one is covered partway down the page, there's even a hydraulic diagram. https://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_teves_mk20.htm
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Jun 17, 2021 12:24
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That's going to be especially hard with the steering linkage connecting to one side of the knuckle.
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Jun 18, 2021 17:29
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I'd guard the radiator with some heavy expanded steel and maybe spray bomb it all the same color as the body so it doesn't stick out so bad, then run it.
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Jun 23, 2021 16:42
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You'd have to fabricate it yourself or have the shop that did the skidplate do it, so... Maybe? Probably going to be hard to visualize how it will mount until the factory one is off and you can see the structure better. Maybe pull one at the junkyard so you can look at the body mounting areas without making yours non roadworthy?
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Jun 23, 2021 17:45
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I'd go for an 8 or 9k lb winch, those are the most common size anyways for fairly small (XJ, MJ, TJ, etc) off-road vehicles. The receiver mount idea is good too, just make sure it's high enough that you won't be trying to put it in with your nose stuffed into a hill or berm already. If you put sb175 Anderson connectors (or even the next size up maybe depending on the winch you get and the duty cycle needed) with appropriately sized cable to the front and rear it'll be fast to hook the winch up, too. You can get a 16 ton hydraulic crimper for this for 50 bucks on Amazon and make the cables yourself easily enough. Mine have more than paid for themselves at this point. This is great for jump leads too.
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Jun 24, 2021 01:05
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ryanrs posted:Which winch brands are good? And why do none of them list winch weight in the specs? They have tons of specs for each model, but weight is curiously absent. (That's because they're all loving heavy as gently caress, right?) I have smittybilt xrc8 on my trucks, it works fine. Will free spool better if you regrease it with good grease instead of the lovely peanut butter they come with. They're fine for home gamers, if you were in king of the hammers or something I'd say a Warn or Superwinch. They don't list weight because 99.9% of their customers are people who will take out a 240lb Dana 30 and put in a 550lb Dana 60... With a truss and a diff cover that weighs 15lb by itself, 40lbs of 1.25" heim joints, and 30lbs of DOM tubing control arms. From memory of how they make my back feel, you are looking at between 60 and 100lb for an xrc8 but don't hold me to that. E: internet says 94lb for xrc8. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Jun 24, 2021 |
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Jun 24, 2021 04:04
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I'm glad you're checking for inline operation on those because that was a concern I was about to bring up 10 posts ago. You might want to verify that they can move enough fluid to do what you want with a reasonable amount of lever movement - checking master cylinder diameter and throw should be enough to answer this question, and you'll only need a bit over a quarter of it's total displacement since there are 4 wheels running off one double-piston MC there.
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Jun 25, 2021 02:35
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Extra dumb suggestion, does your sienna have an abs module that was later extended to include ETC? good chance you could bolt your HCU onto the later hydro block and then pillage a second one for solenoid windings and put them on the ETC solenoids for the front wheels, then PWM them yourself upon demand. That way the hydro block is all OEM grade and the electronics don't interfere with the factory abs and can be powered off entirely for safety when not needed.
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Jun 25, 2021 03:38
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Pretty much. As luck would have it, I'm at my hangar tonight so here are some pics to illustrate. This is from the Teves mark 20 system I mentioned previously since I have too many of them sitting here. 4 unmodified and one hacked up on my desk back home, specifically. Here's the unit.  Top row ports are Primary and Secondary from the MC Next row are Front Right, Front Left, unused, and Rear.  Finally a reason I own an external torx #6 socket. 4 bolts, one abs pump connector and the HCU (which contains all the control electronics and the solenoid bobbins) comes right off the hydro block:  Notice there are openings in the plastic for a fourth bank of sustain/decay solenoids (which would be milled out of the hydro block if this was a 4 channel instead of a 3 channel abs unit) and also two openings in a third row, which according to my information are for mark 20 units that support ETC - electronic traction control. Essentially the only difference on ETC is that instead of only being able to block the driver from adding more pressure to the caliper and letting fluid that's already in there back out using the first two banks of solenoids, the ABS HCU has a third set of solenoids that allow it to add fluid without the driver touching the pedal, applying the brakes without user input. It uses this to do exactly what you want to do. So my thought is if you can swap the hydraulics block from a later, ETC enabled abs controller of the same family as the one in your sienna underneath the OEM HCU, it will probably just bolt right on. It won't do anything with the extra solenoids since, well, the bobbins and driver transistors and firmware don't exist. So if you then hack up another abs unit and stick the solenoid bobbins in the empty holes, with extension leads to whatever you want, you can control them. Of course, you'd still need a source of hydraulic pressure that doesn't depend on the pedal, so this may be a non starter idea, I'd have to spend some time looking at the exact hydraulic block used on that year and later siennas to figure out how to do that. I'm guessing it will use either a nitrogen accumulator built into the unit or the abs pump (fun fact: the abs pump doesn't pump the brakes on most systems, it's used to get the fluid drained by the drain solenoids out of an accumulator and force it back into the master cylinder by pumping back against your foot while the block solenoids prevent you from adding more) to move more fluid into the calipers, but I have no evidence to support that claim yet.
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Jun 25, 2021 05:26
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Copper nickel is great. If you have 3/16 / 4.75mm lines on your car, get an OEM 24364 flaring tool, it's like 25 bucks and on the shelf at AutoZone.
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Jun 26, 2021 20:11
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You don't need to use glass spheres, cunifer that small bends just fine with your thumbs if you're careful. This line was formed with my thumbs only, and it was the first one I'd done in... I think 6 years? Cunifer is magical stuff. 
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Jun 27, 2021 01:04
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Generally you use a wrench on the forged part of the elbow. It can be pretty annoying. You're going to want a good set of line wrenches for sure if you stick those so close together, make sure that a line wrench will actually fit on a middle one with the nuts on both sides turned to their most pessimal position (points closest to the center of the fitting being tightened) or you're bound to make yourself rather cross.
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Jun 30, 2021 07:47
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I'm guessing a loose hose clamp on a fuel line or possibly an evap leak, though I expect you would have gotten a code for the evap leak and failed smog already.
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Jul 2, 2021 00:31
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That actually makes sense. Most modern EFI systems (where "modern" is somewhat negotiable - my 1988 Jeep ECU with less MIPS/RAM/ROM than a loving ti83+ does it) blip the pump at key-on to pressurize the rail but then turn it back off and don't fire the plugs or injectors or turn the pump back on until they see adequate cranking speed via the crank position sensor.
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Jul 2, 2021 12:19
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That's loving awesome. Can I suggest making the cupholders large enough to hold a 1L nalgene bottle? It drives me nuts that almost no cars will hold mine.
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Jul 4, 2021 03:42
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Well that escalated quickly. Man I hate taking dashboards apart. Bear in mind that the sheetmetal may not be a single layer and there's a high chance you're looking at the back face of the wiper linkage and hvac intake plenum area not the back of the firewall if you go through higher up. Check carefully before making holes, I'm sure you can avoid it easily enough... If you think to look at all. I don't think the previous owner of my truck did, the spot he ran his brake light switch wiring through is right where the wiper linkage swings.
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Jul 7, 2021 06:40
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You can but the more pressing issue is that with no soft metal in between, you aren't going to have much, if any clocking choice. When it stops turning that's where it lives.
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Jul 8, 2021 06:25
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ryanrs posted:The collar rotates on the fitting. Jesus. I don't know how I missed that, it's visible right in the picture.
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Jul 8, 2021 20:01
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This is actually something I've got some experience with.
If there is a V&S Galvanizing near you, I was happy with their quality but cannot guarantee you get the same deal obviously. They gave me paperwork and everything, so it wasn't a back door deal, but don't be surprised if they don't feel like bending the rules for you. Edit: info from the zinc nerds https://galvanizeit.org/uploads/publications/Design_Guide_Galvanized_Steel_Structures.pdf https://galvanizeit.org/design-and-fabrication/design-considerations/venting-and-drainage http://gbgal.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/GB-Galvanizing-Design-Guide-for-Hot-Dip-Galvanizing.pdf https://www.corbecgalv.com/eg/publications/Design_Guide_Galvanized_Steel_Structures.pdf https://www.aisc.org/globalassets/why-steel/galvanizing-structual-steel.pdf Probably a fair bit of duplicate info in these... Read or skim as you see fit. Can't remember which one I actually read in detail. kastein fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Jul 15, 2021 |
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Jul 15, 2021 05:25
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I mean, my initial thought was that it was crazy high but the NRE costs are probably most of that. It's not like they are going to be able to reuse that design or sell it to anyone else. When I design stuff for people I definitely take into account whether I think I can sell more of them when I price the first article, and whether they want exclusive rights to the design. It might be a bit high but it has the right number of digits. I personally hate powdercoat since it can't be patched like spray paint, but in the land of no rust I can see powdercoat being ok, with spray paint used on scratches after. Here powdercoat turns into a bubbly rust-magnet mess the second it gets breached and water and rust get under it.
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Jul 15, 2021 06:55
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Most modern LED lighting it doesn't really matter, you get way more light per amp. That being said, run your relays with the coil ground side switched, ideally - positive side of coil to 12v fused, negative side to ground via your control switch. That way the worst case is a wire gets pinched and turns the relay on instead of shorting 12 to ground and burning a fuse or wire. This is a pretty nice better than OEM grade fuse panel and the price isn't super bad. You can get import knockoffs on Amazon for less but this is what I'd trust. https://m.delcity.net/store/ISO-280-Mini-Relay---Bussed-Inputs/p_803800.h_803801.r_IF1003?mkwid=&crid=521456903971
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Jul 15, 2021 23:07
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It used to be a lot less common but for the last 25 years or so it's been much more common, yes. Mostly because electrical engineers (hi) really prefer using an N channel MOSFET output in the various ECMs in a car and the easiest way to implement those is as a ground side switch. I've actually had to temporarily add several banks of relays to my J10 Honcho to convert the 70s factory high side switch wiring to ground side switch triggers to run the 03 GM PDC I'm using as a relay panel, because it's designed to use all ground side switching so the factory BCM can override relay drives from the operator into the on state.
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Jul 16, 2021 00:14
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Cutting that out of sheet will take a comical amount of time anyways won't it? unless you absolutely must have a certain pattern that's definitely better bought in premade sheets and cut to shape.
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Jul 16, 2021 10:09
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Damnit, yeah, lighted switches can be annoying to use with ground side switching. I'll have to napkin drawing some stuff tomorrow and see if I can find a way to make it work but I believe I've run into this previously.
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Jul 21, 2021 08:56
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I have a generally positive view of On Semi, I'll have to read that app note in more detail later. I've been recommending their application note for the ncp1650 active power factor correction IC and white paper on APFC as an intro to the subject for like over a decade now, actually. Sorry for recommending an Eaton product to you, the part number format and compatibility with Aptiv metripack pins made me think it was an Aptiv product. I don't think I've ever *not* been let down, eventually, by every Eaton product I've ever bought or tried to buy so this isn't surprising I guess.
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Jul 23, 2021 06:44
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I mean it's probably fine, it's molded plastic, rubber, and stamped sheet metal pins. I just loving hate Eaton because they keep shafting me on other stuff and they're generally terrible to deal with as a company, their sales reps tried to sell me stuff at work regularly and promised samples multiple times per product line and then never came through and it's impossible to get many replacement parts for their diff lockers. It looks like it's only an Eaton product because they bought Cooper Bussmann, which is a good company with good products.
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Jul 23, 2021 07:05
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I like them. I'm a huge fan of metripack and gt series, less so of the old weatherpack series though they do their job alright for something out of the 70s. Some of the metripack and gt series require feeding the wire through the housing from the back, crimping the pin on, and pulling it back into the housing, so double check if that's needed before crimping, but it's mostly a thing of the past and they've released newer equivalent housings for most applications that allow the precrimped pins and wires to be inserted from the back. I assume OEMs told them that not being able to precrimp each harness wire assembly and then insert them into the housings from the back was killing their throughput or something. Edit: looking at the pins recommended on waytek it appears this housing is back-wired, so you can probably ignore that warning, but double check the spec sheet. Usually the front wired ones have the little terminal orientation tang all the way at the front and it sticks out more, these have it further back and it's smaller. kastein fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Jul 23, 2021 |
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Jul 23, 2021 07:13
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Astro 9477 on Amazon for sure. I also use the h6 and h7 weatherpack crimp dies that don't come with it but fit it. I don't think they have metripack or gt series dies yet but I've made do just fine with those 3 tools. Main tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0045CUMLQ H6 die set: https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-11946-Crimper-Terminal/dp/B07BV3PGHC H7 die set: https://www.amazon.com/Crimping-Tool-Die-Weather-Terminal/dp/B0719F72CQ The last two may not be strictly necessary for this - or at all necessary, I'm not sure - but do come in handy on any w-profile crimp terminal that uses rubber seals that get threaded onto each wire individually before crimping the terminals. They're the correct diameter for weatherpack, but if you use them on metripack you basically just have to post crimp them with a smaller round die after. One of these days I'll find the correct dies, I swear. There's also a die specially for crimping marine heatshrink RBY splices. I haven't bought that yet, the regular RBY one that comes with the main tool seems to do fine on them so far.
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Jul 23, 2021 07:40
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A lot of Chrysler vehicles went to something called an intelligent power module that lives next to the fuse panel, for example most Jeeps with the NGC ECU I believe used one. The WJ used a solid state relay mounted under the passenger headlight to control the radiator fan. IIRC they are a semi common failure point...
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Jul 24, 2021 03:09
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That's very likely because the engineer who converted the sienna design from rhd to lhd was heading off on vacation in 3 days and didn't want to spend the time to redesign it so it got extended. The white piece is a check valve I believe, it keeps vacuum in the booster even after the engine stops so you have a couple pedal pushes worth of boosted braking left even if the engine stalls. Don't eliminate that and make sure it goes back in pointing the right way. Other than that, make sure you use stiff enough hose that vacuum won't collapse it and high enough temp that it won't turn into goo, and you'll be fine, it doesn't care how you route it.
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Jul 30, 2021 05:15
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That's not even the weirdest way it's been done either. I forget who makes it but there's a Japanese imported minivan in the US market that has the booster mounted on the right side and has a crazy long bellcrank contraption going clear across the cabin under the dashboard to run it with the pedal on the left. Yes, it's factory. I saw one in the junkyard years ago and was VERY confused.
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Jul 30, 2021 06:12
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It looks like chafe protection to me. I'd either replace it or chuck it and check the hose every few months. A piece of corrugated split loom of large enough diameter is what a lot of domestic vehicles run for that, at least the ones I'm used to. Too bad you're literally 3000 miles away, if you were close by I would just give you the 2ft of self adhesive 2" neoprene strip I have left over from building my Jeep trailer. I'm certainly not going to use it for anything but it's not really worth shipping. Brake setup looks loving amazing, BTW. Great work on those lines especially for a first timer. Could have made them infinitesimally more perfect with a bender and/or a few dozen hours of experience before starting, but I bet that lasts 20 years as it is, I don't even use my bender ever on 3/16, only on 1/4 and up since it kinks easily. Edit: I'm not sure what the temp rating on this stuff is but a foot or two of quarter inch thick (ish, I'm kind of guessing what you have there) would probably do the trick. I bought 2in x 1/8. I can't vouch for its durability or anything yet of course. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07VCQJVNC kastein fucked around with this message at 07:01 on Sep 19, 2021 |
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Sep 19, 2021 06:57
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