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chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

Darchangel posted:

The Harbor Freight folding welding table isn't terrible, and folds reasonably flat to get out of the way when you're not using it.
https://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-steel-welding-table-61369.html



I've also mounted a small vise to mine.


Comes in handy for welding smaller stuff. A set of various long-throat locking pliers are also useful for clamping things to the table.
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/pliers/locking-pliers/18-in-c-clamp-locking-pliers-64564.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/pliers/locking-pliers/11-in-c-clamp-locking-pliers-64563.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/pliers/locking-pliers/11-in-swivel-pad-c-clamp-locking-pliers-63865.html

I actually got a set of 3 or 4 from Amazon.

I have a similar welding table that I got from amazon, works pretty well.
I use a drill press vise for holding small parts, though. I ground the paint off the bottom so i can place it anywhere on the table, clamp my work into it, and strike up an arc. Works really well and can be moved out of the way for bigger things.

One of these:
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-jaw-capacity-drill-press-vise-30999.html

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chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

ryanrs posted:

It's not really about the cup holder, it's about designing and making the thing. I've wanted to do a plywood tab and slot project for a while, and there aren't many places to do carpentry on a car (morgans excepted). So the cup holder carpentry was a nice opportunity, but Putin hosed it all up.

Oh well. I will probably stick with the roll of duct tape for now.

I have more interesting van parts already in production, albeit slightly delayed:


oh for a second I thought that was a UPS shipping update :v:

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

ryanrs posted:

Exhaust Leak


that's not really smoke

I would like to fix/improve this minor exhaust leak. The flange has a lip inside, so the gap isn't as big as it appears. It's not loud. This flange is downstream of the cat, before the muffler.

Would this be a candidate for some kind of muffler cement? It needs to be removable (perhaps with a hammer?). But it really doesn't matter if it fails on a trip. I might not even notice until I got home.

Has anyone used J-B Weld Muffler Seal or similar products? I am definitely looking for a cheap, half-rear end, 3-6 month solution (that I can repeatedly reapply).

is this a toyota with the o-ring kind of donut gaskets? either way, the ears on the flanges look bent so it'll have a hard time sealing. I just use high temp copper RTV on these things and never have issues.

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

ryanrs posted:

So I've been watching Sienna transmission youtubes, and it looks like you don't need any special tools to replace the clutch packs in the transmission? Toyota A540E 4-speed automatic.

What happened is the van lost a lot of ATF while semi-inverted. I didn't have enough ATF to get it moving, so I topped it up with motor oil. It worked pretty good getting into town, and I got the transmission flushed the next day, but the friction material is now totally burnt.

I expect everything in the transmission is fine except the clutch packs and band(?). Like, the bearings and gears, actuators, and general hydraulic :psyduck: should all be unharmed. I feel like I trust my burnt transmission more than I'd trust a junkyard pull.

You'll probably have to change the shims to get all the clearances in spec. Inspect things like the clutch pack springs, snap rings, the shafts on which planet gears ride, etc. really carefully for wear, but a full rebuild kit with all that stuff shouldn't be very expensive.
It's already hosed and you're contemplating putting a junkyard box in it, you don't have much to lose; even if it ends up not working you'll learn some new stuff.

I say go for it, you'll more than likely be successful. That said, if you're considering having it professionally rebuilt, do everyone a favour and don't have a go at it first, you'll end up costing yourself more money when you drop off a pile of broken poo poo on their counter.

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

ryanrs posted:

My van has a A540E, which was also used in these vehicles:
<list>

How much is a transmission at the junkyard, couple hundred bucks if you pull it?
I'd find a lower mileage example that's junked for something obvious (crashed, etc.) and just grab a trans; they're very reliable and probably fine.
This is certainly cheaper than rebuilding, or you can do it in addition to rebuilding. Have your van back on the road while you spend time rebuilding it right.

Hell, one of those options might even have a deeper final drive, it could be an upgrade.

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

ryanrs posted:

Oh, and the ATF has been flushed with some big machine that spliced in-between the transmission cooler. That was done the day after it was contaminated with motor oil. Looks like I can get cans of stuff to flush the lines and cooler ("kooler kleen"?). Hmm.

e: so do I have to literally break it down into its component pieces and degrease every part?

shredded clutch material is abrasive and the pump and valves have precision machined surfaces.
A flush just exchanges the fluid, it doesn't ensure there hasn't been damage to the valve body, pump, etc.
Getting every last bit of debris out is nearly impossible, especially from the torque converter (which also has a clutch in it..).

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chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:
I carry a couple gallons of ATF with me when i'm out in the woods since it's a pretty universal fluid. It's the only fluid that works in the transmission, however you can dump it in any other fluid hole without many repercussions.
You can put it in power steering, axles, transfer case, the engine. None of these things necessarily love ATF, but you probably won't hurt them for a short run if you've filled less than half their capacity with ATF.

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