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ryanrs posted:
These are intended for shipping purposes, using a snatch strap on em will damage the surrounding structure, a single large recovery point should do fine though multiple will give you an out in case one is inaccessible or in a bad line of pulling. IMO on the subframe, maaaybe the front bumper beam. Van owns.
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# ¿ Mar 7, 2021 17:56 |
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# ¿ May 10, 2024 03:43 |
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ryanrs posted:I have not been to a junkyard before! start here: https://row52.com/ You can also weight it at any CAT scale.
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# ¿ Mar 8, 2021 02:29 |
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Uh yeah for pick n pulls, the one in richmond has some older/moldy cars, I'm generally not a fan as they're pretty haggard and cut up by the time I came along. The one out in Fairfield was my goto for a few years. They're super reasonable for a p-n-p and if you hulk a ton of parts to the counter, they'll cut you a break. Like when I bought an entire f-series wiring harness, a bench seat, and some other weird poo poo. There's a new one in American Canyon that I've no experience with.
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# ¿ Mar 8, 2021 03:50 |
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Suburban Dad posted:Probably rtv of some flavor. Get a little seal puller and you can probably put the new one in with the correct sized "big rear end socket." This or take it to the plumbing aisle of a hardware store and find a suitable piece of pvc/*etc plumbing to drive the seal in. *I realize that in 2021 a pvc cap probably costs about the same as the genuine Toyota driver. E: don't pull the metal bracket. Pop the old seal out with however much force you feel appropriate.
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# ¿ Jun 7, 2021 04:45 |
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You're outta the woods in 500-1000mi! Congrats on a mostly uneventful fix!
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# ¿ Jun 10, 2021 01:27 |
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ryanrs posted:Oh poo poo, I just had an intriguing/alarming idea! Entirely possible. Rover implemented this in 1999. A long time ago when I gave a gently caress about Rovers I built a retrofit to install the '99+ units into the earlier rovers. It worked, and worked far better than it has any right to. There's some trickery involved and you need to know how the ABS module works. There's typically two circuits operated by solenoids, apply, and release. Each wheel will have one, sometimes so will both master circuits. What you want to do is override the apply solenoids without overheating the respective brake. iirc Rover would pwm that specific wheel for ~60 seconds with a ~90 second lockout to avoid melting the brake down. Add some safety features to your project by limiting its operating speeds to sub 30mph, switch lockouts, etc. Rover ran this system up to 65mph. Worth seeing if tundras/sequoias/landcruisers get similar hardware and try to graft their parts into the Sienna.
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# ¿ Jun 18, 2021 18:27 |
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Darchangel posted:I would definitely buy a winch, mount it on a receiver mount, and install receivers on both ends of the van with quick connect cables, if I didn't want one permanently mounted. Seconding this. Bumper vs not? Ziptie the stocker on for now. Trim some of the lower edge off. Go with the prerunner idea, the shop that built your skidplate might be up for it. Mostly tube with plate mounts to the unibody and a sheet metal skid shouldn't be 100lb.
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# ¿ Jun 24, 2021 02:44 |
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Krakkles posted:But it’s always going to rattle now. Nahhhhh there's a fix for that. Amazon a couple rolls of felt tape. put a little bit on every plastic to plastic junction where the two different parts meet. Its what oems of luxoshitboxes do.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2021 21:47 |
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Absolutely upgrade to LEDs. Go with Sylvania over whitebox branded ones. I've had some that were hit or miss and the dimmer doesn't work quite as good.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2021 22:38 |
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I've run lovely cheap amazon light bars and a pile of various products from baja designs. its all in what you want the pattern to be. Work light | flood | throw light everywhere and anywhere: Do the cheap ones Want to haul some rear end and see where you are going? BD or bust. Devils advocate: while you're doing lighting, throw one out back as a camp light. Really makes a difference. I ran a couple like that on rovers and it owned. bumpers and radiators: my f350's bumper is about midway across the rad too but it doesn't have a prerunner bumper on it, just a massive old warn unit.
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# ¿ Jul 14, 2021 17:16 |
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ryanrs posted:Yes, this is useful to me. I am primarily concerned about terrain within 2-5 car lengths of me. On anything technical I end up spending all my time puttering around in 1st gear at 5-10 mph. Yea, BD got you covered! (their warranty is top drat notch too) https://www.bajadesigns.com/Science-of-Lighting/Lighting-Zones.asp Here's a mod to my bike I designed and 3d printed utilizing their spot(highbeam) and driving(lowbeam) patterns. The forced cooling came as a part of the second revision to avoid thermal throttling the modules. https://imgur.com/a/Gogm4iX
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# ¿ Jul 14, 2021 18:50 |
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Had a little freetime to help with the project. Using StormDrain's photoshop. I added a tiedown point that uses the original towhook to help avoid twisting the bumper during winching. there's two extra tubes that reinforce the receiver hitch. There's also a lower spar that protects the condensor/radiator/lower cradle. Bent the skid plate to go under that as first line protection for that spar. The support bars that cover the washer bottle can be thrown either at the lower tie in if the welder can pull that off, if not, its fine to move it just above it.
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# ¿ Jul 16, 2021 23:52 |
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No, the ideal mounting place for the receiver is inline with the bumper attachment points otherwise a torque gets placed on the bumper and its mounts. Specifically was building on Stormdrains sketches. I'd run a tube across the middle of the main mounting points below the main hoop to put a receiver on.
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2021 00:43 |
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Hell yeah thread delivers
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2021 22:36 |
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a split section of heater hose with a few zipties for securing it over the existing hose works as good abrasion resistance in a pinch.
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# ¿ Sep 19, 2021 15:23 |
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ditch it. Portable winch time. Use the attachment eyelet and leave an anderson power pole somewhere to power it.
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# ¿ Oct 8, 2021 02:26 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Take a lot of water. Then double it. Do this. Stovepipe Wells, Panamint Springs, and Furnace Creek are your only fuel options near DVNP. Plan Accordingly. (Scotty's Castle if the road is not washed out, Ubehebe Crater, and Crankshaft Crossing come to mind) Highly recommend DVNP. Trona Pinnacles is nearby. See that too.
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# ¿ Dec 3, 2021 00:15 |
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Yeah, I wouldn't take a noisy loaded down wheel bearing into the Mojave or DVNP*. Especially if I knew about it beforehand. *broken down there twice... just outside of Furnace Creek both times.
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# ¿ Dec 4, 2021 01:19 |
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Timken for bearings.
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# ¿ Dec 7, 2021 16:01 |
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Manifold cookin' owns. v6 prooobably has an intake that folds over itself, should be perfect for some manifold burritos. https://nuxx.net/pdf/ManifoldM.pdf Build a traction board from 2x8s or a cheap HF atv ramp + sawzall, there's also a spade you can drive into the sand to winch off of.
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# ¿ Dec 12, 2021 18:34 |
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I agree with Ken. Turn left dale! Run your tank dry as possible. get some jackstands and a floor jack or two. piece of piss. Ratchet straps are pro for holding the tank in place until you can get the proper straps installed.
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# ¿ Apr 3, 2022 17:04 |
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It currently is handling the evacuating part on its own.
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# ¿ Oct 7, 2022 22:01 |
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A year and change out of a normal shock dealing with conditions it wasn't really designed for is quite reasonable imo.
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# ¿ Oct 8, 2022 16:58 |
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Ballsy.
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# ¿ Oct 17, 2022 05:25 |
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helicoil + stud. Or. Cut into the unibody. Remove the damaged captive nut with force. Replace with standard nut. Welding optional. Studding optional. Swearing mandatory. VVVV: shave the stud to sit shy of the skid and all is well.
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# ¿ Oct 27, 2022 00:15 |
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Darchangel posted:Welcome to Owning A Car.
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# ¿ Oct 28, 2022 23:48 |
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And if it does break re engineer the loving thing
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# ¿ Oct 29, 2022 00:07 |
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Seconding everyone else. 4 speeds aren't that hard to rebuild. While you're in there throw new seals at every piston. Be gentle with the apply pistons at the end of the clutch stack. The seals there easy to pinch. The nylon circlips that ride on the shafts should also be replaced. Don't put those into service dry. Dunk in atf, install, send. Soaking the clutches in atf for half an hour or so is plenty. Some just dunk em and send it. I tend to soak em overnight but I'm hell on equipment. Look for heat damage on the hard parts. Anything suspect should be replaced. Go to the surplus store and buy a handful of old dentists picks. Be loving careful because they'll gash your fingers up. (One of my former bosses got stitches because he borrowed one of my picks but didn't listen) Then buy some *good* circlip and snapring pliers. Some of them are bigger than you'd think. Some cheap disposable small straight edge screwdrivers are good for bending into useful tools for walking out apply piston snap rings. Anything else an be made on the spot with creativity and a slight amount of annoyance. Keep an extremely clean work area. Cleaner than your kitchen clean. Lay things out in the order you removed. Don't gently caress with that order. It helps to have a workbench and a jig for the transmission made out of literally whatever so that you hoist parts out of the transmission with the bellhousing side facing straight up. You got this.
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# ¿ Feb 13, 2024 03:44 |
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You shouldn't need a press to break down clutches other than to maybe hold the return springs. I don't really see any gotchas in the teardown section of the manual. Kits come with gaskets, steels, seals, filters, and frictions. It's on you to get the torque converter and ancillaries like the pump.
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# ¿ Feb 13, 2024 16:48 |
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# ¿ May 10, 2024 03:43 |
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Going to point out the torque converter also has a clutch within it that is also now contaminated with motor oil.ryanrs posted:e: so do I have to literally break it down into its component pieces and degrease every part? If you want it to work and work for longer than 6 months when you're done with replacing the soft parts, Yes. Otherwise the debris left in corners and pocket is ripe for getting sent right through your homebrew reman. At minimum earning you an opportunity to drop the valvebody again and backflush solenoid screens, at maximum, partially jamming a servo and leaving a clutch engaged when it shouldn't be, always wrecking a host of hard parts. Same thing happens when a neglected transmission gets its first flush/service in ages. It dislodges sludge and other garbage. Welcome to the dark arts that is automatic transmission overhauls.
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# ¿ Feb 14, 2024 02:25 |