|
Carry afire extinguisher incase that poo poo starts to burn. Y'ouve put enough work in to this thing recently that you don't want it to burn for at least a few months
|
#
¿
Mar 9, 2021 02:00
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 12, 2024 17:07 |
|
|
Just convert it to rwd. But then gently caress it, it's already fwd. Fwd+ rwd= 4wd
|
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2021 17:37
|
|
|
honda whisperer posted:
FTFY
|
|
#
¿
Jun 24, 2021 11:42
|
|
|
Now that I think of it, I used to roll a Bombardier Muskeg tracked tractor with a drill mounted to the back of it, and the steering relied on skidding and a lever attached to two different master cylinders that controlled a right and left "brake band" (don't know what else to call them). They were dead simple to work on and pretty reliable. You could definitely macgyver something like that up if you can find a pair of similar single circuit master cylinders. You could use a regular brake caliper for the braking duties themselves, the biggest issues would be mounting a separate caliper. Or it probably wouldn't be too complicated to put a Y fitting going to each caliper off the main brake line. Keeping in mind of course, that if you did that and your brakes horribly fail and cause you to die, you didn't hear that idea from me.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2021 01:59
|
|
|
If it makes things easier, you could get some hoses made full length from a hydraulic store and not have to worry about flares and hard lines at all. Only issue I'd see is you probably don't know for sure how long they need to be vs just buying a bunch of hardline, cutting, bending and flaring as needed.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2021 22:32
|
|
|
A hydraulics supply store should be able to hook you up with bulkhead fittings to go through the firewall. Or somewhere like this? https://www.summitracing.com/search...AiAAEgK7S_D_BwE
|
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2021 23:39
|
|
|
ryanrs posted:Yeah, something like this AN-3 right angle fitting would be perfect, IF there's a good way to connect 3/16" copper-nickel hardline to the ends. Is there? Standard AN compression fittings are fine for fuel, oil, and coolant, but I don't think they're strong enough for brake line pressures. Sorry for sounding like a broken record, or a paid shill for "Big hydraulic store" but unless you have the most obscure, exotic fittings you should be able to find any fittings you need at a hydraulic store in stock and fairly cheap. Even if they don't have a direct fitting that goes from thread X to thread Y, they should be able to hook you up with something that goes, thread X- Thread Z- Thread Y. Based on the taper on the fitting you linked, it looks like a JIC fitting It might not seal perfectly with your flared fittings, but I bet they have something that works for it. The added bonus about going to a store in person is that you can test fit things, and make sure the threads/fittings are the same before you buy. If they even half know their asses from the products they sell, they should be able to hook you up with the right poo poo first try, and then you only need to worry about bending your lines properly in between.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2021 03:04
|
|
|
kastein posted:Generally you use a wrench on the forged part of the elbow. It can be pretty annoying. You're going to want a good set of line wrenches for sure if you stick those so close together, make sure that a line wrench will actually fit on a middle one with the nuts on both sides turned to their most pessimal position (points closest to the center of the fitting being tightened) or you're bound to make yourself rather cross. What he said. DEFINITELY make sure they're far enough apart. I still have yet to resolve  an issue with a set of hydraulic lines that go to bulkhead fittings. THey are soooo nice and neatly done, but they're also so loving close together that in order to get at 6 of the 7 fittings going through this plate I have to remove multiple other lines. Just to tighten one, then I have to put the others back on there.I bought aset of crowfoot wrenches, that happened to skip the one size that I need to tighten the one line that really needs tightening, and then when I bought the right size wrench, it was too goddam tall. So I persist in macgyver tightening this thing because I can't bring myself to sand down literally about half of a 60+ dollar snap on crowfoot wrench in 1 1/8" size. So uhhh, yeah, rant over, but make sure you space them bitches apart so you don't curse yourself later about it.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 30, 2021 11:54
|
|
|
Uhhhh what?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 1, 2021 14:22
|
|
|
That appears to be a crankcase vent hose, or PCV hose. If you are smelling raw gas from that then you have a BIG problem. It is *probably* not the source of the raw gas smell. But by all means check that poo poo.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 2, 2021 00:25
|
|
|
The taper appears to make that a JIC fitting. I don't know about the quality of the particular fittings you got, but its *supposed* to seal via the taper, so you should be fine.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 8, 2021 07:33
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:I was going to say I only do 88 degree bends but that's a problem.... I only do 69 degree bends.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2021 05:55
|
|
|
kastein posted:A lot of Chrysler vehicles went to something called an intelligent power module that lives next to the fuse panel, for example most Jeeps with the NGC ECU I believe used one.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 24, 2021 03:10
|
|
|
ryanrs posted:I've been kinda busy with work for the last month, but the project continues! Yo, whats the deal with the loops in the lines? Why not just go straight (or bent as needed)? I was thinking maybe having equal length lines would do something to equalize friction loss, but the curves would increase it would they not? IANAE
|
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2021 22:11
|
|
|
Word, I figured with such short runs, and the small amount of fluid movement, that friction loss wouldn't be an issue, I just couldn't think of any other reason. But extra length to distribute flex makes sense. Does it make a difference with loops vs a bunch of 90 or 180 degree bends aside from complexity, and looks less dumb?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2021 23:52
|
|
|
Hey minivan goon, since we're on the topic of recovery stuff, you mentioned probably in the 4x4 thread that you've got various lengths of Amsteel blue lines with eyes spliced in to the ends of them. I'm not trying to copy cat you or whatever, but what diameters do you have and what lengths? Do you have like say one each of Length X, Y and Z? Or 2 of length Y, but one each of length X and Z? Do you wish any of them were longer, or shorter? I guess the length thing would be specific to a situation, but do you ever wish that instead of Length Z you'd gotten one longer or shorter? Awesome thread as per usual btw.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 9, 2021 00:55
|
|
|
Word. I've got one of those 3ton come alongs on order with 35 feet of blue on it. And I found a place that sells it in cut lengths and will put eye splices in to it, just wondering what someone who actually has and uses it does. I'm also a weirdo who will probably travel alone so I plan on practicing once my poo poo shows up. In the meantime I'm slowly acquiring various things. Need to pick up a bunch of shackles and maybe a snatch block for 'just in case' purposes.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 9, 2021 03:33
|
|
|
Wire rope will snap and gently caress poo poo up, but synthetic wire rope doesn't (usually) so with regular cable that's why they use a blanket or whatever. I've had winch lines break while trying to drag my drill out the mud, the one piece made a dent in metal. That would make an even bigger dent in someone's head. So I think it's mostly to keep broken pieces from flying too far/ too hard or whatever.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 9, 2021 05:12
|
|
|
Get a piece of sheet metal ( I suppose it would have to be fairly thick for super mega-gulps or whatever) for a bracket, and then a short length of Exhaust pipe for the holder itself. Another flat piece to cover the bottom so its water tight. Bolt the bracket to the master cylinder hold down bolts. Good excuse for you to buy a welder.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 25, 2021 23:26
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:Nope, can't see any downside to that plan. Exhaust tip is good if its chrome. Hell, just get a hole saw of the correct diameter for the inlet pipe itself, drill through the floor of the van and epoxy the tip sticking out of the floor. Then if you have a spill, it will just drip through the inlet, and out the bottom. Bonus points because it'll work as a piss funnel.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2021 00:11
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:Is … is that mounted to a piece of diamond plate tek-screwed to the body? It appears to be also bolted to the trailer hitch.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 9, 2021 10:22
|
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:, there's also a spade you can drive into the sand to winch off of. You talking one of these things? https://www.roundforge.com/articles/winch-anchors/
|
|
#
¿
Dec 12, 2021 19:22
|
|
|
ryanrs posted:So how hard is it to do a gas tank swap? In addition to the shop space, there is a large, fenced parking lot I can borrow over the weekend. I wouldn't want to do it in my apartment complex parking (literally under the building), but outside seems safe enough for gas tank work. I've done them before but I had the luxury of a lift and a transmission jack. They weren't that difficult, less so whenthe tank is nearly empty. Is there any way to access it from the top to disconnect fuel lines? Thats a big part of how much of a pain it might be. Usually getting at the filler neck, evap lines etc is fairly easy, its the fuel lines that are the problem Also, be prepared with new straps and mounting hardware. Infact, don't even bother trying to reuse the old poo poo.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2022 16:13
|
|
|
I guess California isn't the rust belt, but I do admire your optimism that the drain plug will be easy to remove. On the plus side is you don't have to worry about it going back in. Since you're going to have the tank out, you might consider replacement of other stuff while you're in there. Pump strainer for example. Fuel pump? Keep the old one for a spare?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2022 19:51
|
|
|
Yeah, I really hate the grinding and drilling and chop saw cutting aspect of metal fabrication. I guess if I got good drill bits the drilling part would be a bit more tolerable. But the grinding and chop sawing noise even with ear protection is obnoxious. Then theres the metal shavings dust that gets everywhere. Including in my nose. Yes I can and probably should wear a mask but thats annoying too. More so than wearing ear pro.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 17, 2022 04:27
|
|
|
ryanrs posted:
Don't know what your budget is, but I can highly recommend this one from Lowes. https://www.lowes.ca/product/drill-presses/porter-cable-15-in-floor-12-speed-drill-press-78742 Thats Canadian dollars though, so it would be less in your freedom bucks.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 17, 2022 15:51
|
|
|
ryanrs posted:That is an extremely useful suggestion, because I have a lead on one of that exact model, for fairly cheap! Sweet! You now need some decent quality drill bits and your set up will be fuckin dope.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 18, 2022 17:28
|
|
|
Fwiw, removing the quill on that one isn't terribly difficult. Yours may have been abused or something, but the one I have at work has been satisfactory for a bunch of fairly "precision" work ( by my standards) right out of the box.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 18, 2022 22:44
|
|
|
Don't forget to wait till the van is down on the ground with full weight on the suspension before you torque that poo poo down.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2022 20:45
|
|
|
Yeah, if it was me trying to get rid of dents in something like that it would be heat and hammer, not heat and press.
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2022 11:29
|
|
|
Without stepping on minivan goon's toes, that kit is *probably fine* but don't limit yourself to looking for recovery gear just on FORE EX FORE sites. Other places that sell quality straps, snatch blocks/pulleys and shackles are: rigging stores, industrial/construction supply, and arborist supply businesses. I don't have quite the same brand name of rope that he has, but I picked up a bunch of Dyneema ropes of varying lengths from an arborist supply store and a bunch of soft shackles from there too. For extra they splice eyes in the end and a few more bucks gets some chafe protection over the eyes. I think the only things I was unable to find at any of those places are snatch rings and snatch rope/kinetic recovery straps. But snatch rings seem to be somewhat new on the scene, and snatch/kinetic recovery poo poo seems to be somewhat specialized for 4x4 type stuff. Admittedly, I do have a princess auto snatch block. I'm not saying don't patronize Billyjoejimbobzeke's fore ex fore store, but rather there are other places that you can look and find quality gear. Sometimes cheaper.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2022 01:08
|
|
|
Does it just detect bears or other critters? Like will raccoons set it off? Deer? People? I can see raccoons being annoying if they set it off but if you strap your cooler closed with say, a ratchet strap or two they ain't getting in there. A bear is different of course cause they don't give a gently caress about straps
|
|
#
¿
Oct 12, 2022 00:29
|
|
|
Not trying to discourage you, more like ask/point out some hows and what ifs and poo poo, hopefully you find it helpful and not annoying. Like what if you scrape over something and bend the stud vs the bolt that was in there originally? How would you replace it? How would you secure it in the first place? You could thread it in the captive nut and loctite it, but can you get a torch on that part to melt the loctite to remove it? What about tack welding the stud in there? Can you get the welder nozzle in there to tack it in place? Or a grinder to grind off the tack if you need to remove it? Take this with however many grains of salt you wish: If I had to do this I'd probably put a stud up through the captive nut, and (assuming it was accessible from above) then thread a jam nut on to it and red loctite that poo poo. Then I'd A: blue loctite the stud and tighten the stud/jam nut combo down to the captive nut. B: tighten the stud/jam combo down to the captive nut and tack weld if there is enough room to do so. Someone smarter than me is welcome to point out any reasons that those ideas suck if they feel so inclined to do so.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2022 00:22
|
|
|
Did you drill out the whole thing or only where the threads were hosed up? How did you figure out how to end the helicoil where the remaining unfucked threads began? (assuming you didn't drill out the whole thing)
|
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2022 02:28
|
|
|
Got ya, I wasn't sure if it was a through hole or a dead end. I've successfully installed helicoils before (still holding!!) but only after drilling out the whole thing. I didn't know if there was some kind of secret poo poo for lining them up with an existing thread. I've stacked a couple helicoils on top of each other before too and secured them in place with red loctite. Not sure if the loctite was needed, but it made me feel better. Also, for anyone watching at home that might not know, tap extractors exist too. https://www.amazon.ca/Extractor-Bro...07KGBBD6W&psc=1
|
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2022 12:50
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:For those who don't know better, these only really work on a tap that's not actually stuck.  good point. I've never had to use one but yes.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2022 17:32
|
|
|
I welded a 17mm socket to a 7/8-14 tap a few years ago so I can use it to chase threads with an impact gun. Works pretty sweet thus far.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2022 22:43
|
|
|
More threads engaged means more wear surface
|
|
#
¿
Dec 6, 2022 14:45
|
|
|
Speaking of Siennas with lifts on them, I was working at a hospital a few days ago and saw a whole shitload of jacked up Siennas I'd swear some of them were lifted like 5 inches. Probably not but they sure looked like it anyway. They were all wheelchair accessible vans so obviously that was part of the package for all that extra gear needed. Also, you've probably seen this, but if you haven't: https://www.journeysoffroad.com/store/p6/Sienna-FWD-GEN2.html E: poo poo, looks like that kit is for the generation after yours.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 24, 2022 20:41
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 12, 2024 17:07 |
|
|
Don't forget the new bushings.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 13, 2023 12:43
|
|