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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





ryanrs posted:

So do hydraulic e-brakes need secondary brake calipers?

I mean, that is an option. ChrisFix went that route on his drift Mustang - the regular braking system is still in place and unmodified. There's a hand-operated master cylinder on the center console, feeding fluid to a second pair of calipers on the rear wheels.

The tricky thing would be figuring out how to package all of that on a front wheel.

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





It doesn't even prime when you first turn the key to run without cranking it? That'd be really weird.

It probably doesn't run for long but it should definitely run for at least a few seconds.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Relays are cheap, reliable, and easily replaced if something does go wrong with them.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





The white thing might be a check valve, and you'll absolutely still want to make sure you have one or you'll lose vacuum assist immediately anytime there's low engine vacuum (engine not running, engine trying to run away, etc).

Otherwise, any appropriately-sized vacuum hose (needs to be able to handle fuel and oil vapor exposure) will be fine.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Knee-impact alone is why I use Carling-style switches in my TJ despite their obviously inferior appearance and feel to some giant toggles. Three of them are aimed squarely at my right patella.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Speedo no, but navigating by odometer-based distance is a good thing to keep working in the event any GPS-based solution fails.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





ryanrs posted:


Speaking of body roll, on lefthand sweepers I hear a rubbing/grinding noise which is probably a wheel bearing. Need to be going fast enough to get weight transfer onto the right-side wheels. Is there a way to verify the problem is actually the bearings? If I jack up the van, will I be able to feel play in the bearing or similar? (The bearings would be just starting to go, they are not catastrophically hosed yet).

Maybe but I'd lean towards probably not unless it's really bad. I had two failed wheel bearings on my Mazdaspeed3 - one was a rear making a clicking noise, the other was a front that growled like a motherfucker. Neither one had any noticeable play even compared to the good bearings on the opposite side.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





ryanrs posted:

Wow, it looks like replacing wheel bearings is a huge pain in the rear end. Is this something I should have my mechanic do?

Depends entirely on the bearing style.

Old school tapered bearing that you can pack by hand: messy but easy and dirt cheap, worst case you need a BFH and a punch to knock out the old races

Bolt on unit bearing: even easier and also no grease everywhere

Bearing that has to be pressed into the knuckle and then the hub has to be pressed into it: This is what my MS3 had. I took it to a shop and it still fought them tooth and nail. To the point where even with a shop press they couldn't separate the hub, bearing, and CV shaft, so I got to buy all of those parts too.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Vampire Panties posted:

Re: death valley ... you have the van, the equipment, the derring-do. Maybe try to seek some sort of motoring revenge for those poor germans? dont actually do this

Glad I'm not the only morbid motherfucker to think that.

Take a lot of water. Then double it.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Suburban Dad posted:

Imagine hitting your shin on the corner of that.

You mean "shattering your tibia".

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





For a vacuum pump, manifold gauge set, and a can tap - yep. The only thing you won't be able to do is properly evacuate/recapture the refrigerant that's in there.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





builds character posted:

Here's the stuff I bought (other than the actual vehicle parts) to fix AC on my van.

Vacuum pump $90
Vacuum pump oil - not clear if this was necessary or not based on my use but wanted to be safe. $10
O-rings $20
Refrigerant $90 (I think it was ~60 when I bought it though so see if there isn't another brand on sale)
A/C gauge set although I'm not sure it was this one, it looked awfully close if it wasn't. $50

All in, that's $260 and you'll have extra refrigerant left over.

Holy gently caress R134a has gotten expensive, but I suppose everything has. That pack of R134a has doubled in price since January 2021.

Walmart is still cheaper but I distinctly remember paying sub-$4 per can, now it's $9.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003







Seriously, you can't skip those things. The odds of it being just clutch pack material that went through everything are basically zero, and pumps don't like pumping clutch pack material anyway. The torque converter is loaded with contaminated fluid.

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





There are a very few torque converters with drain plugs but yeah, almost all of them are fully welded with no way to service them without the kind of machinery needed to build them from scratch. So unless it's unobtanium, they're treated as disposable.

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