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I think the sump guard has the right ideas but it's got a couple of things you need to do before you have a bad day. 1 - the mounting bolts are exposed. What happens is that after enough rocks, scraps and bashes, the heads on the bolts become rounded off and it is only a matter of time before you cant get them off. So a small lip of metal around the bolt head or better recessed needs to be done, 2 rear bolts are perfectly shielded. 2 - A large guard over the cat converter..... I know some might be ???? why I would be concerned but in all honestly even with the speeds and impacts we do in rally, we leave that exposed and build a "ramp" so that the cat slides up and over an obstacle. Eventually that rear guard will have all sorts of crap stuck on it and it will get plant matter which will set up a fire. Also the heat of a cat isn't a good thing in a confined space - mud makes it an even more confined space. TBH prepping as if it's rally car is the best idea as of course for a stockish road biased car 3mm urethane is about to become your best friend. That or truck mudflaps. That stuff makes for mudflaps and flexible anti gravel armor for your rear suspension / underbody especially for a FWD with will pepper the underside. Krakkles posted:Weld the diff. I’ve heard FWD + welded diff = best off-road minivan. Snapped driveshafts would be my concern on that. To be honest if you cant afford a LSD, shimming the diff tighter works surprsingly well. Edit : that said this is an awesome start and waiting for more updates CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 10:32 on Mar 7, 2021 |
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Mar 7, 2021 10:21
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 02:39 |
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I got some ideas that will help witht he mounting to the subframe but it's late and I need bed. quote:I don't think I need two front recovery points. Just one big one in the middle should be fine But I will comment on this - there's nowhere to really support that on a FWD. Stay with the two on the rails as those are the strongest points altho you can look at the actual location to raise them up and remake them in more solid metal. And doing recovery on cars, believe me two is def better!
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Mar 7, 2021 11:14
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ryanrs posted:None of my gear is rated for a kinetic recovery, so I'm only thinking of my hand winch. The recovery point(s) would be welded to the front subframe ("engine cradle" in toyota terms). That also carries the front wheels and engine, so it should be pretty sturdy. Engine cradles are typically not built for recovery stresses, especially on the front -You are more likely to bend and rip metal clean off (hard won experience on that one....) Do you happen to have anything with the front bumper off the car?
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Mar 7, 2021 22:22
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ryanrs posted:Mods, please change thread title. It'll be my pleasure to do so.
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Mar 9, 2021 01:12
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They let you anywhere near an asbestos mine?!?!? Whoah, I'd have turned around and got the gently caress outta there. ryanrs posted:50 square miles of asbestos and yet there were still fire restrictions Asbestos is surprisingly flammable in most of it's forms
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Mar 9, 2021 11:15
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ryanrs posted:New Idria asbestos seems to have much lower toxicity than other forms of asbestos. The fibers are much more soluble so they do not persist in the lungs. For further reading, start here: New Idria Serpentinite: A Land Management Dilemma. No, it's still chrysotile asbestos. There really isnt a safe level of asbestos exposure so I wouldnt be going anywhere near it. The fact you can still get that close to the main open cut mine would have done my brain in but for the industrys rear end in a top hat attempts to keep itself a thing and not recognise the dangers in the USA.
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Mar 9, 2021 23:19
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Ahhhh so what you want to do here is what motorsport would call a fiddle brake? That a hydraulic handbrake but instead of working on the one circuit, you have a dual circuit that can be used to sepereaty brake one wheel or the other? So I cant tell you the exact parts but the operation is pretty simple and can be done inline or with a separate brake assembly. Inline the issue will be making sure the system is bled because a dual system hydralic is a right loving bitch at the best of times to bleed. So the principle is that with the fiddle brake, say pushing the handle forwards locks the right side and pull back locks the left, thats what you want to get? https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/48491-fiddle-brakes/ Edit : Bingo, I knew the Brits would be able to tell you how to do a fiddle brake with off the shefl parts CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Jun 25, 2021 |
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Jun 25, 2021 02:45
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ryanrs posted:My current question is what happens in the following scenario: Possible is D) master cylinder on the fiddle brake has a seal failure and spurts fluid into the cabin and also your answer is d) depends onhow you set up the circuit and the secondry master cylinder / handles but you can achieve c) inline.
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Jun 25, 2021 03:18
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My question isnt about if it's doable or even a good idea, I know both is yes from experience. My question is getting it done safely as your going to be modifying the primary braking circuit if you want to do this inline. I would recommend a dual brake system so if you have a failure, you can still drive and that an inline system is what I would call a motorsport only modification. So while Im confirming your idea is very valid, you need to carefully consider this for a road car and how you want to approach it so you have thought of failures. Every line and join / cylinder you put in is a failure point on a single circuit and I would be leery of doing this on a non competition vehicle. I also have an idea how to use the ABS system to acheive the same thing but again, this isnt something I would encourage on a road car Edit : Also on an install, this is something I would be handing off to someone who knows what they are doing. You do not want to gently caress this up for your own safety CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Jun 25, 2021 |
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Jun 25, 2021 03:29
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 02:39 |
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ryanrs posted:There is no new single point of failure. Separation of the dual hydraulic circuits is maintained. The way the drifters do it removes redundancy because they often join the circuits to the two rear wheels through a single e-brake master cylinder. My design does not do this since I have separate e-brakes for each front caliper. Im aware how drifters do it, being a old/long time rally driver - we invented that poo poo! - the best way is actually to keep the dual rear lines and use a AP racing dual circuit cylinder. But that wasn't my concern - a single circuit is referring to a single line to one wheel, you are introducing more components and also re-routing lines. Every change is introducing new failure possibilities you need to consider. If you have a four channel ABS the idea kastein mentioned is viable - keeps your hardware in place as it was stock and the failure fix can be as simple as pulling a fuse.
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Jun 25, 2021 04:01
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