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Yeah I built it over the winter, been planning to make it for years but never got started. Good thing I did, really came in handy!
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Aug 15, 2021 14:47
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Lemme see if I understand your roofing situation. From inside to outside, it's condensation plastic, purlins, metal roof? No insulation or anything? Does the plastic need to drain somewhere or have a soffit vent or anything? Cold weather construction is so wildly different from tropical construction. Also, how's the horsefly trap working out?
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Aug 15, 2021 18:14
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No insulation because this will be an unheated and uninsulated building. Condensation from the metal roof will drip onto the plastic which will run down and out from under the roof. Where it will drain into a gutter (once installed). The ridge will be ventilated so air can travel freely under the roof. If it was insulated, then that would be below the condensation layer, so that part of the roof would always be cold. The horsefly trap seemed to catch a lot of them when it was hot and they where much less of an issue afterwards, haven't seen a single horse fly in august, just not the same weather now, around 16-24 C this month, which IMO has been warmer than usual for august.
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Aug 15, 2021 18:44
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I had a busy day on monday, work 5:50 to 1800 then I scrambed to get the plastic up before 2100 when it started raining again. I made it and the structure is now covered. But I didn't make it in time, this morning I noticed black mold. I will have to scrub it off and then see about treating the wood with something suitable and cheap. Iron sulfate maybe. I'll go ask at this store where they know this stuff.
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Aug 18, 2021 10:33
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Fiance just sent this picture. Got the roof materials and sheet materials for the walls. I am in a hurry to get everything up because the material is developing black mold. I am wondering if I need to prioritize the roof or the walls.  The plastic I got now is keeping the inside relatively dry but I have no eaves for the gables yet so they are still exposed and get wet. So I could put on the roof first and the gables would be better protected. Or I put up the walls first, they are water proof bitumen impregnated sheets so they would also protect the walls from rain and splashing. I want to treat the structure with mold killer, preferrably something that soaks into the wood and prevents it coming back. I am not sure what to use, there is copper sulfate, iron vitriol (used on wooden paneling a lot here) and commercial solutions, pine tar also kills mold well, but it makes the surface sticky until it dries, which at this time of year is never. There are also some silicate based stuff. I suppose if I want to clean off the existing mold I should go for the roof first so I can scrub the wood with mold cleaning agent, would be harder with the sheeting in place.
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Aug 20, 2021 07:13
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I honestly didn't realize wood could grow black mold when left outside for such a short period of time, drat. I figured the open air would slow that down some.
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Aug 20, 2021 07:48
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Yeah it goes fast when it rains as much as it has done here for such a long time. August has been really bloody rainy and in July it was basically a drought. Only extremes... Also pine is more susecptible than fir is.
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Aug 20, 2021 08:11
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What kind of humidity do you normally see in the summer? I've never seen something mold so fast. I'd probably treat it and get the roof going, I'm thinking that hanging plastic on the walls would work better than plastic acting as your roof to limit your damage.
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Aug 20, 2021 21:36
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August is usually "rot month" by tradition, but it's seldom been this bad I have to say. Such a long period of rain with no chance of drying out. Today was the first day things looked more dry. Put up the roof panels today, still gotta work on the "drop lists" or edge panels or what one calls them. Got the back up but I found I need to take them down and adjust. I will get that as ready as possible before it's time to attach the ridge panel. I am not sure, I might need to return it, test fits make it look pretty narrow, I might need a wider model.  At least the building has eaves now, so it's better protected from all sides, even if it'll rain into the open ridge.
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Aug 21, 2021 18:47
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I was shocked that wood would mold so fast or at all - as I am used to pressure treated or similar treated wood for fences etc… But was watching a popular YouTube video where they were using wood from their land (cutting the trees down and milking them roughly) and they molded just like this.
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Aug 22, 2021 02:55
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I started putting up the sheeting today, can't really proceed with the ridge plate just yet so I might as well do this.   Didn't get everything up but most of it. I will be laying a puzzle with the smaller bits for the stuff high up later on. Ideally you should use as large sheets as possible, but it's not an ideal situation I am working from. At least now I think the structure is mostly protected.
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Aug 22, 2021 12:02
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Looks awesome. What's the worst case scenario for the rot, cut it out?
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Aug 22, 2021 17:35
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It doesn't look like its going to be a rot issue but just a fast growing mold issue, after its enclosed it should be fine as long as it was treated to prevent it from coming back I think. I'm amazed how fast it grew, I've left pallets and crates sitting for years that while weathered never had mold. Will it be a problem storing lumber in there or was it only an issue because of direct contact from the rain?
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Aug 22, 2021 18:53
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Once the rain is off and it gets to dry out it shouldn't be an issue. I guess this pine is more susceptible because it's a lot of sapwood and not a lot of heartwood. I'll probably buy something I can apply with a brush that'll kill the mold and keep it from coming back like copper sulfate in water, but even without it should not come back in anywhere the same strength now. Also how many mold spores are in the air also affect this, local conditions wary. I've had lumber sitting outside for years too and no mold, covered with some sheet metal or similar. I think this lumber is extra susceptible for some reason, I note it's the live edged stuff that is worst affected.
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Aug 22, 2021 20:05
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Finally I got the new ridge plates this friday. I also made a ladder that hooks over the ridge, which I used to get up there and screw it in place. A few screws left and the roof is done, but I have to move the whole scaffold so I can reach it safely and it's a PITA to move.
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Sep 5, 2021 16:27
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This project took a big nap and it's still napping, once the roof was done I just disassembled the scaffolding and put as much as possible away. I just hung up some bikes, this way they take up less space on the floor. Not gonna use them until spring anyway. And by then I hope to start the paneling and the door (just got a tarp as a door now). As you can see it's been filling up, I need to make shelves, a lot of them. 
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Nov 13, 2021 18:39
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Never knew that bikes sleep like bats...
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Dec 7, 2021 15:28
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His Divine Shadow posted:This project took a big nap and it's still napping, once the roof was done I just disassembled the scaffolding and put as much as possible away. This looks very nice, an amazing job so far. You got done just in time, how cold does it get in your area?
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Dec 10, 2021 03:29
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Thanks and the local record for this year was -27C earlier this week, though I only registered -24 at my house.
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Dec 10, 2021 05:31
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This is really super awesome and a lot of fun to read through. Got a big dead pine coming down at the property I live at soon, this is giving me a lot of ideas.
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Dec 20, 2021 21:59
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Ookay! Spring is finally here and the snowing is thawing for real. So time to start this project back up. The shed survived the winter just fine and the sheet metal roof is most excellent at sloughing off snow. The fake tile sheet metal on my house and garage keeps the snow stuck to it by comparison. So this is a real good design for dealing with heavy snow, won't even have a chance to build up. My next step is panelling the shed. I've already been in contact with the local sawmill back in march but they had nothing for me then, I hope they got something by may. I also have lots of shelves to put up indoors, and I need to build a proper double door. I am also gonna look into what it might cost to have a concrete slab cast. Anyway here's a short video of me sitting behind the shed by my fire pit drinking some coffee. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiQkWWLRC2U
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Apr 17, 2022 11:01
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Woo progress! Finally got some boards, 200 meters of mixee 125x22mm and 150x22mm. That's 5 and 6 inch wide boards by 7/8" Good thing I bought a trailer. And yes it's well balanced, removed the trailer from the car and with a little force I was able to balance it with one hand.  Unloaded, this weekend I'll start putting them up.  I will be mixing 125 and 150 widths randomly for a more living appearance. That's how they used to do it, boards placed vertically with a rib covering the joins. This is called a "lockläkt" facade, some examples:   I wil be using a matching color to my other buildings though.
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May 4, 2022 17:18
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Going off on a tangent here and building a miter stand, since I have a lot of cutting and mitering to be doing. I bought a miter saw a couple of weeks earlier: Today I bought a sheet of MDF and started on a stand, will be a simple mobile stand with fold out wings. Got this far today: 
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May 7, 2022 18:38
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Best thread on the forums. 
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May 8, 2022 18:25
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He's been a constant presence on this build. "Whatcha weldin?" 
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May 9, 2022 10:53
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More intermission stuff, I haven't had a lot of time going forward on this project this week. I've mostly painted the main stand a few times with polyurethane to give it better water resistance and cut up parts for the wings so I can start assembling it soon and hopefully use it over the weekend. It's spring so we're working on gardening stuff as well as getting next years firewood ready. On tuesday a guy dumped 2 cubic meters of dirt on our back lawn, gonna try and grow strawberries in raised beds instead of in the ground.  And I've been cutting firewood, not done until this is filled all the way up and I got another pile in the new shed I am working on. (Noticing this firewood shed is going skewed with time, literally built from scrap with two pallets for a base and sitting on some rocks)  Maybe you firewood people have heard of using a tire (or chains, straps or something else) to prevent firewood from flying when splitting it, well I thought all those solutions sounded like they could be improved on. So I used chicken wire and some pieces of wood. Works perfectly and. 
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May 12, 2022 04:39
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OK finally got the miter station done, been a busy busy week...    Still need to get some casters for it, some final sanding and varnishing before it's done. Casters where out of stock at my local supplier so I am improvising until further notice...
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May 14, 2022 14:10
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That is a nice piece of work, good job. I find mitre saws quite annoying and bulky, but they rip through repeated cuts like nothing else!
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May 14, 2022 23:26
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Thanks! Took me a while, too much other stuff going on, gardening stuff and firewood and tearing down a chainsaw. Anyway I got the miter station jigged up so I could make consistent cuts.  Then I just started nailing, just one nail in the center is what I chose to go with, based on what I've read, that way the lumber won't crack. Two nails say 1/3rd in from each side might hold the board flatter, but might also crack when it shrinks. There's also a gap between the boards, where a 50mm / 2" batten will cover the gap.  Keep going.  Until the lower portion's done.   Cat intermission: 
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May 22, 2022 16:22
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Been going slow, but this side's done now, well until it's time for the battens Sheet metal will be covered with boards, some gaps between them to allow ventilation.  The list or moulding or whatever to call it, doesn't go all the way, but this is because it will be trimmed later when I fit boards to cover up the corners.  I got this far and then I ran out of material, time to go buy more: 
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Jun 6, 2022 06:18
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Looking good!
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Jun 8, 2022 06:02
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Thanks, run out of material and I didn't get any until just now. So I have been building shelves instead. Based on Matthias Wandels cantilever shelves, these are 35 cm long shelves (+10cm for attaching to the studs), as the name implies they use a cantilever action and also lots of glue, and some screws.  I will profile the noses later by cutting off the excess  They are glued & screwed directly to the studs so I better be sure I am content with letting these shelves remain here. I made these ones earlier. This whole wall will be shelves. As will at least one more wall, but with tighter spacing between levels for smaller items. 
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Jun 22, 2022 08:00
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Progress has been progressing, but I feel it's slowed down, I have been doing a lot of other things however and got other things left to do. I tore down a wall in my shop, made it a lot airier. The main reason was to optimize the space I got after moving out a lot of the stuff into the shed. And now I got the wall space to put in an air heat pump. No more direct electric heating for me. Everything is kinda messy right now, a lot of things will need to go elsewhere. I am planning to build even more shelves for that, it should be fine. Shelves and hooks and stuff to hang cables and stuff from for the welders.  Anyway back to the shed. I have gotten a modest amount of shelving up and I also moved the old shelf that used to be in the shop over here, no point tossing it away. Looks flimsy but it used to hold a helluva lot of stff.  I got the boards up to cover the underside of the roof in the front  Then I had to pull a poo poo load of boards on this wall because when I looked at it from afar I saw they where not plumb. I pulled them, removed the nails and put every board back with a water level. I kept pulilng boards after this pic was taken, probably redid 80% of the wall.  Then I started covering up the corners. I dunno what you call these in english:  Back wall mostly done, before the boards ran out. Bur I got the last batch today and it should last me to fix all that needs doing. I am just missing the battens now.  I need to cut off the beams that stick out before I can proceed, I used a sawzall on the front side but the blade was lovely and wore out so I have ordered new blades, they got here today and are hopfully better quality. They have similar tooths as old timey tree felling saws, the type used by two people.  Last night my SO came home with a pool so I had to spend time to assemble that too:  We got a better filtration system though, the ones that come with these cheap pools are like 10x undersized for the task.
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Jul 13, 2022 19:16
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Man finally a day when it's not pissing outside. I finished the back wall today. The miter station has been invaluable, but since it's MDF (sure treated with polyurethane tho) if it starts to rain I have to pull it inside.  But it's been real handy for this kind of work and it's so fast to set angles.  I developed a new procedure for cutting the boards for the upper part. When I did the front I went back and forth with a measuring tape and it took forever! This time I laid the previous board down and put a spacer between the next board and extended the cut line to the new board. This way I could cut a bunch of boards and just go and nail them up.  Going a lot faster   Done in a few hours. Took me two days to do the front...  I've started doing some decorative stuff now, covering all the corners and finishing the door opening  Cut a slight top bevel for the topmost piece of trim on the bandsaw. I've been googling and also going around in person looking at old buildings and this style seems to be common on older houses so I went with that.  I'm planning to add some lists on the bottom and top of the walls before I add the battens. And I am still waiting for the paint, but this week I should be able to start painting.
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Jul 19, 2022 16:51
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Looking really good! Definitely going to be worth the extra effort putting that bevel on the drip cap. Amazing how much quicker a flat cap will rot away. Another pro move I learned when siding my house is to cut a shallow kerf in the underside to keep water from riding surface tension and getting between the cap and the window/door trim
Mister Dog fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Jul 19, 2022 |
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Jul 19, 2022 17:03
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I've been doing some more research and apparently drip caps can make the problem worse, particularly if you do it wrong and put it on the outside of the boards, which is what I was thinking of doing, mainly to pretty up the bottom. If I where to put in a drip cap I should cut the bottom and attach it from below, so there is no seam for water to get into. So like these guys, nail a straight board to the wall and use it as a fence, cut at 22.5 degrees or more but no less. That on it's own would take care of the issue functionally speaking, but part of the reason for doing this is cosmetic.  But even doing it the proper way there's contention if it does help or make things worse, supposed proper way. Part of the reason for these caps on old houses is that the foundation (often made from rocks cut into rough shape) often stuck out beyond the walls and it also served to lead water away from it. Not an issue for me since I got the opposite situation, so just doing an angled cut would do it. But I also like the old timey look.  This also tells me I've done the drip cap over the door wrong, it should go in under the boards. I need to redo that too, but I don't want to remove the boards and cut them, not even sure that's doable. Need to consider alternate solutions. Perhaps I could use a router and make a mortise that only goes a little way into it. Another solution would be to use sheet metal. I do have lots of that left over from the roof. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Jul 20, 2022 |
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Jul 20, 2022 07:03
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Do you have any source for all this info by the way? I need to renew my exterior at Some Point™ so knowing all this would be nice since it's in the same old school style.
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Jul 20, 2022 08:47
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Unfortunately for you, my main online source is a swedish forum called byggahus.se. It's a forum about everything related to house ownership and building and is basically a huge archive of knowledge that's not north american or UK oriented, which often times contain info and advice that are not proper over here and assume different building practices. Swedish and finnish and norweigan are all similar enough that most info carries over and fits in the same broad design philosophy, with finnish and swedish being almost identical. Of course there are differences and there are differences based on regions as well. I don't know if there is a finnish equivalent or not but it seems likely there ought to be. Then I also know some people who are work in construction and historical stuff irl. Learn to nail straight is my no.1 tip, drat it's hard... Particularly with a heavy framing gun, it's actually easier with hammer and nail but takes forever. Also the library, lots of books on the subject there.
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Jul 20, 2022 10:12
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Thanks, my house does happen to be in Finland and I do also read swedish. Honestly my main issue is not knowing the correct terms for things in any language though, lol.
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Jul 20, 2022 12:31
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You're in luck then, and yeah let me tell you the terms are different even in swedish over in sweden and amongst swedish speakers here. This caused me problems because I knew the swedish terms, but not the local terminology. The local terminology is dialectal or a "swedi-fied" version of a finnish word. Like "rappaus" for instance, that's render, plaster or mortar in english that you apply over brickworks and the like, they call it "rapp" here (att rappa en vägg, rappning), but over in sweden they call it puts, (putsning, att putsa en vägg). So when I asked for puts in the local building store they looked at me like I asked for shoe polish. Having to learn all the dialectal terms was a big job in itself. Over here you would say "att spantra en vägg" while in sweden they say "att regla en vägg" when it comes to framing a wall from stick lumber. The local term spanter comes from boat building and is an archaic word, which is often the case, the swedish spoken here is archaic in many ways compared to modernized swedish which went through a modernization phase and became a lot more homogenous in the 20th century as the country modernized, which passed this part by more or less. Aaanyway lingual stuff aside I am having some problems deciding how to handle the underside of the roof. I first thought I would leave the beams exposed and I tried doing that but the results where not pretty in real life, because the beams are live edged in a lot of places, so it's not possible to achieve an aesthetically pleasing result. After lots of tries I decided to simply board it over like on my house. Then I tried to cover it up with boards and stuff:   I'm still not pleased with the result. There is an interruption in the lower line of the roof and at a distance it looks wrong. I am not sure how to proceed, I am considering adding a piece of wood here to extend it all the way, though I wonder if that will look odd closer up. I'm also wondering if I should add more cover boards to the front and cover that up too. Not feeling satisfied with all these attempts to cover up either, but I don't see much of a choice really. And hopefully when it's all painted it will look better. The paint is taking longer than planned to get, it'll be a grey with blue-ish look to it. And the various details and the roof sections should be white. 
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Jul 22, 2022 10:52
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