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OT post. Didn't get much done last night, went on a trip with several of my relatives and family to visit my oldest nephew who is 21 and bought his first home. It was a very nice place, exactly the kind of living I dream of. The main house is from 1880, log house construction, about 160m2 in size with both floors, there's also a nice basement for storing food & drinks in:  Other side  On the upper floor I found this miniature masonry heater, there's a full sized one at the main floor too, it works by burning hot & clean and then running the flue gasses through channels that help absorb heat into the mass of the heater  I found an actual porin matti in the upstairs bedroom. It's a heater that gives both rapid heating and has a few hundred kilos of mass to retain some of it for a longer period. Once in use that flower could not be there, as the top plate was designed as a cooking plate too. One can see the hewn logs in the background.  The property also includes stables, they have 4-5 horses (other peoples horses)   A second house, this is a guest house / sauna  There's also chickens, rabbits, a few cats on the farm  Anyway I doubt I will get much done today either, need to work on my SOs car this week before my vacation is over.
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Jul 25, 2022 07:10
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| # ? May 3, 2024 23:36 |
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Beautiful. The ladder at the back for getting in and out if you’re snowed in? It’s definitely moomin country.
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Jul 25, 2022 08:28
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I think it's a fire escape ladder, the window gets in the way however. But they can usually be lifted off the hinges easily when opened.
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Jul 25, 2022 08:48
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God drat that house looks mint for its age. Love that funky entry way with the windows at an angle.
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Jul 25, 2022 09:13
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That's a really pleasant house. Is that masonry heater the type called a kakelugn?
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Jul 27, 2022 01:58
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Yes, though technically it's a plåtugn or in finnish pönttöuuni. This is a variant that's mostly found in Finland with a sheet metal exterior, which is a massive functional upgrade over the traditional tiles. These ones are old, I can tell from the design of the fireplace, no grate or ash dump below the fire. These things could stand to use som andirons. EDIT; I got the paint for the house, but the weather is gonna be poo poo for the remainder of the week. And I am now busy with cutting out rusted parts out of the mazda and fixing that, which is developing the feel of a project that will take up my last vacation week. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Jul 27, 2022 |
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Jul 27, 2022 05:41
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Kinda juggling projects now, welded up the mazda, waiting or the epoxy putty to set. 3-5 hours at 20C it says, well it's been over 6 hours and it's not completely set yet. So I've been doing other things, like painting the shed.   I am painting it before the battens are put up because if you paint it after assembly, bare wood will be visible once the wood shrinks. Also painting it dilluted with water, as was recommended on unpainted wood. So I'll have to paint it again after it's done once. I am surprised at how well the mud paint matches my other buildings color. I just ordered grey since it looked closest, can't alter this paint like a modern paint in the store, it is what it is. It's more like a stain than a paint, it does not seal the wood.
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Jul 30, 2022 16:03
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Serious shedage.
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Jul 30, 2022 18:46
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Mostly been painting and putting up the battens lately, getting some absolutely insane weather for August here with temps nearing 30C, even topping it once, which was a historical record breaker for us. Now it's just pissing outside.  Above you can see what it looks like when I've done a "primer" coat using paint thinned with water.  This wall I went over with a spray gun last night. I put paint in a 1.8 mm primer gun I have used on cars and stuff and dilluted it with water and it worked pretty well I gotta say. I still went over the wall with a brush afterwards but it was much quicker than doing with only a brush. I think if I had a spray gun with a 2.5 mm tip that would be the ideal for this paint. I'm planning get one of those anyway for spraying polyester filler.  I have bought a special gun for texturing and also spraying mud paint last night but it did not work nearly as well as my old primer gun. But there might be something wrong with it. But I'd still say something like a 2.5mm spray gun, a suction type would be fine for this, would be the best way to go. I'm already pretty decided that I want to cast a floor slab next year too.
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Aug 21, 2022 07:39
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Color looks really good, nice and clean! Your sprayer experience must have differed quite a lot from mine. I noticed the surrounding objects, like the trees and grass, have retained their natural colors instead of going gray from overspray.
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Aug 24, 2022 01:59
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Thanks, I've actually done all the work until last week with a paint brush so not much spillage there. I got the texturizing spray gun to work better, but compared to the primer gun I think it's the worse option. Juts puts on too much and too narrowly, no fan control and I did get overspray on the ground and elsewhere with that. I'm cutting up the final battens now and nailing them up. So I will be using that going forward unless I can score a cheap 2.2 - 2.5 mm nozzle spray gun, I meant to get something like that for polyester spray filler anyway.
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Aug 24, 2022 06:47
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Beautiful. The ladder at the back for getting in and out if you’re snowed in? No verandah. 
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Aug 24, 2022 16:47
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just chiming in again, to say I have no idea what half of this means, but I'm learning a bit, and this is an awesome project. love your thread.
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Aug 28, 2022 21:57
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Well this is the texturizing gun, it's a spray gun with a 5000ml container and has nozzles 4.5 - 8mm in size. I used it again last night because the 1.8mm gun kept clogging up. It has a separate valve (not pictured) for turning the air on and off, so that's not done with the trigger, which is not as nice as a proper spray gun. But it puts on the paint quickly. Hosed down the rear wall last night with it and used a paint brush to work it in to the wood. Works better than just using a brush to lay it on IMO. 
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Aug 29, 2022 10:55
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This is the facade done aside from painting the corners: I've instead of painting been working on the double doors. I was quite worried about making a door and having it warp, it's not the first time I've built something and had it twist. So I decided to build the doors around a frame that I laminate together, that should prevent the boards from warping too much. First door:   Second door in glue up:  It's not very pretty, but the plan is it won't be visible later. Now I am not sure where to go from here, what kind of door skin I should use. I am thinking of plywood, then some boards to make some fake panelling. But even thin plywood is crazy expensive nowadays.
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Oct 1, 2022 12:28
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What's preventing you from making it similarly to the exterior cladding?
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Oct 1, 2022 15:42
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Weight mainly, also I want a different look to the doors than looking like the facade. If I went with panelling it should be thin though, like 12mm or half an inch I think, or the weight becomes too much. Some examples I've been looking at for inspiration. Since I have the frame made and it's already heavy, I am limited in what I can put up or what styles are possible.   I like the first more, I think the way to make it would be to skin the outside of the frame with plywood, then attach decorative frames on that and paint everything. The 2nd one is a lot simpler though and could probably be made with ready made paneling from a store.
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Oct 1, 2022 16:05
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Could you skin one side with ply and leave the frame exposed on the other? Saves weight and cost, and then no need to add a purely decorative frame.
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Oct 1, 2022 18:40
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His Divine Shadow posted:Weight mainly, also I want a different look to the doors than looking like the facade. If I went with panelling it should be thin though, like 12mm or half an inch I think, or the weight becomes too much. Are both door versions swing-out? Is there any chance that you put your snow shovel in the shed one night and come out in the morning to 1/2m of snow that keeps them from opening? That would suck, as I have found out in an analogous situation. (I put my shovel out on the porch by the door when snow began to fall, next day there was 14" / 35cm of snow that blocked my screen door from opening. I had to go out through the garage roll-up door and wade through the snow to make it to the shovel.) Overall, I like the first set somewhat more.
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Oct 3, 2022 01:39
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Nah I keep the snowblower in the carport so it won't get locked in. I gotta say I really dislike rolling doors even if they have the advantage wrt snow, for the space they steal inside the garage. Prime shelving areas it prevents me using. I want to replace the rolling doors in my garage too with homemade and insulated doors , though that will be made in a different way, with nicer wood. These doors will also be skinned on the outside only.
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Oct 3, 2022 04:54
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First door is up I screwed some wood into the door frame to but the door up against that to get it flat, then I screwed it in place.   It's not done yet, but I wanted to put it up like this before I got heavier. I plan to add more boards on the front, also considering a third hinge. For now the door is screwed in place, but I want to make a concrete threshold under the doors later, and the lock will lock into the top and bottom then.
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Oct 8, 2022 15:19
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Tidy door but the hinges are a lot smaller than the ones on your example images above.
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Oct 8, 2022 15:49
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Well it's what was cheap and available at the local home depot equivalent. I really wanted to forge my own but there's just no time for that. I might replace them later with my own stuff if I get to it.
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Oct 8, 2022 16:18
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Now I have a door, ho ho ho Sorry about the blurry photo, mornings are getting dark this time of year. I still gotta make some adjustments though, the door frame isn't square. Doors are, the frame on the left side has gotten twisted. Will have to do some corrective planing. And this guy is always interested in ladders 
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 06:49 on Oct 10, 2022 |
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Oct 10, 2022 06:46
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The doors came out nicely.
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Oct 10, 2022 22:36
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Not much to show here recently, just a winter photo. I guess the shed is more or less finished for now. Now... I have got this big vague idea in my head on how the future should look like on my property. I got my main shop which is bigger, insulated and heated. A big part of it is a woodworking section separated with plastic drapes. Now I got an increasing need to do more car work on my own and I lack a proper place to work on cars where I live. During summer I can work outside on the gravel but it's not ideal. So I plan to cast a slab in my carport where I currently have gravel. Here's a photo from last summer when I had to replace the sheet metal basically from wheel arch to wheel arch and this summer I gotta do the same on the other side. I would've loved a nice concrete slab here, made it easier to roll my welder which is a 100kg piece to a more comfortable location too. So I am definitely putting a slab here regardless of how I go.  Anyway if you are still with me, the above pondering left me to start wondering if I should turn the whole shop into a metalworking / car shop and get rid of the whole woodworking section... Then I could have this area to work on and I could also drive the car inside and work on it there during winters and the welders and everything are gathered under one roof. But what to do with all the woodworking stuff then? Well I was thinking, what if I insulated the shed? And cast a floor slab inside???? Would a 5x5 meter shop be enough for woodworking? I think yes it's actually more space than is currently alloted to the woodworking section in the current shop. It might be superior even. But goddamnit I don't need another space to heat up. I could fit a wood stove, but it would be an on-off heating thing, I dont do much woodworking in the winter time. I am not clear how bad it would be for my tools, like the table saw, the bandsaw which are cast iron. How would they fare in a space that is insulated, but not regularly heated? Is it doable? I was thinking if the moisture levels can be kept down then it might work out, using a dehumidifier perhaps and then keeping the shop locked up solid when not in use. But I am not sure, hence I am writing this long spiel. People with unheated shops is probably not a rare thing...
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Feb 25, 2023 12:17
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His Divine Shadow posted:People with unheated shops is probably not a rare thing... My previous shop was unheated and about 3m by 3m. I had a small concrete pad outside that I'd wheel the tools into if the part I was working on didn't fit. There were days I spent more time working on my layout and flow than actually woodworking. I've seen some amazing shops that are 5m by 5m. My new shop is kept at about 4C unless I'm working, I haven't had any issues with rust or condensation.
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Feb 25, 2023 13:35
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In this climate and without a constant heat source, I can easily see the temperatures swing below freezing and possibly remain below freezing for weeks. That's kinda what worries me most about this idea. The temperature going above and below freezing and what that might do. I think making sure the interior is dry would help a lot, but it might still be problematic.
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Feb 25, 2023 13:57
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His Divine Shadow posted:In this climate and without a constant heat source, I can easily see the temperatures swing below freezing and possibly remain below freezing for weeks. That's kinda what worries me most about this idea. The temperature going above and below freezing and what that might do. I think making sure the interior is dry would help a lot, but it might still be problematic. Have you thought about using some teflon-based rust inhibitor like Glidecote for your tools?
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Feb 25, 2023 19:02
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If that would be enough it would certainly be an easy fix. I do have some petroleum based wax stuff (Waxilit) I use already, not sure if it's a rust protector too. I've been wondering if a dehumdifier would also work, one that works at low temps. Thing is the shop would likely mostly be a storage area in winter since I do little winter woodworking, so once the air is dry enough and if the shop is sealed up then new moisture shouldn't make it in again that quickly, which I hope. That's also why I am thinking of moving things around since a good chunk of my heated shop is mostly just taken up by these tools and rarely used winter time.
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Feb 25, 2023 19:34
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His Divine Shadow posted:If that would be enough it would certainly be an easy fix. I do have some petroleum based wax stuff (Waxilit) I use already, not sure if it's a rust protector too. Something to consider, since it's still winter, would be a side-by-side test. Take two tools, spray one with a protective coating and leave the other untouched, put them in the unheated shed and see how they fare until summer.
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Feb 25, 2023 20:02
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His Divine Shadow posted:In this climate and without a constant heat source, I can easily see the temperatures swing below freezing and possibly remain below freezing for weeks. That's kinda what worries me most about this idea. The temperature going above and below freezing and what that might do. I think making sure the interior is dry would help a lot, but it might still be problematic. I live on the northern Norwegian coast, and most of my tools live in my non-insulated garage that also lets in a lot of moisture. I have not had any problems with any of my saws and other power tools in the last 7 years here, the only things I take extra care of are my batteries that I keep inside the house. It regularly gets down to about -10-15C here, and then swings right up to +5 again for a week of rain. I also have never heard of anyone around here heating their tools except for the ones with the extra posh heated fancy garages.
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Feb 26, 2023 12:05
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What kind of tools? I store my chainsaws and wheed whackers and such outdoors in the shed and they don't feel any worse for wear from that. But if we're talking for instance my bandsaw and table saw which are cast iron machines massing 1.5 tons together, those I am a bit more worried about since they don't move in line with the swings in temperature and creates ideal conditions for condensation of moisture on them.
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Feb 26, 2023 12:42
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I’ve been working in a mostly unheated, uninsulated shop for about five years. A table saw, band saw, a few routers, domino, etc. all live out there year-round. It’s heated on occasion when I’m working out there on an assembly or finishing. No temperature or humidity control in the summer beyond opening windows. As such, it’s subject to fairly wide swings in temperature and humidity. I can only recall a few incidents where this was a problem. Once, when we experienced a rather rapid swing from cold and dry to warm and humid I found many of the cold metal surfaces coated in condensate, which then resulted in some surface rust. It was all very superficial and able to be oiled out. On another occasion, I had assembled a sideboard in the shop, which was very dry (10-20F outside, heated to ~50F with a wood stove inside), then brought the assembled piece in the house (much warmer, more humid) to finish, whereupon the joinery literally exploded over the next day or so. On occasion too, I’ll forget about a bottle of titebond and return to find it ruined. For the most part, however, it’s not a huge problem. All my tools are still in working order, and most of my projects don’t in fact explode. I’ve learned to be aware when there’s going to be a wide change in the weather and plan accordingly.
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Feb 26, 2023 18:04
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His Divine Shadow posted:What kind of tools? Everything from drills and sanders to circular saws and my routers and mitre saw, they are all of the more or less portable version though, and no cast iron.
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Feb 26, 2023 19:37
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I have a 1950s delta bandsaw, along with a stack of other tools, in unheated detached shop in the northeast USA. We occasionally get big swings from 0f to 40ish, and everything gets cover in condensation. I pay extra attention in the fall to collect all my glues and paints, and get the in the house. Otherwise, as long as I remember to wipe everything with an oiled cloth, rust isn’t a problem. On the occasion that I miss something, a quick buff with 00 steel wool cleans it right up.
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Feb 27, 2023 01:44
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Thanks for the input, does seem like this will be doable as long as a little care is taken with the tools.
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Feb 27, 2023 06:59
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The wind blew my door off its hinges. Rather it broke the board it's attached to. Yeah I know it's a weak design to have the door attached like that to the side board. Unfortunately it worked out like that, there's no stud there for the hinges to screw into. I could fix it by moving the doors outwards and instead screwing them in from the outside wall with long enough screws to sink them into the studs. I might have to consider that but I have been pleasantly surprised at how well it has held up until now. I forgot to "lock" the doors and we had a windstorm that blew the door open.   I fixed it by taking the same board and flipping it upside down, putting the damaged part inside. So now it's back to how it was, except looking worse on the inside. I really can't think of redoing the doors right now, I want bigger better hinges for that. I need to start emptying the shed as much as possible. I will need to build shelves to move as much as possible off the floors. I am getting stressed, time is just moving forward and I am getting nothing done on this, so much other crap to work on, plus actual work which is the worst. I need to start digging and I need to start ordering material to prep for casting slabs. I am even stressed out because I have to go on vacation this year and waste precious time traveling. I hate traveling. Only do it for the family.
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Jun 1, 2023 07:55
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People that say I told you so are such dicks. However...NotJustANumber99 posted:Tidy door but the hinges are a lot smaller than the ones on your example images above.
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Jun 1, 2023 09:19
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| # ? May 3, 2024 23:36 |
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The hinges didn't fail however, it was the door frame. If you can call the thing it is attached to a proper frame.
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Jun 1, 2023 09:33
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