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deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

NewFatMike posted:

“please loving quit doing sketch fillets just apply fillets it makes things way easier to constrain and dimension”

I should have found this thread a long time ago but this being the first thing I read in it makes me realize that I am missing some basics. :eng99:

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deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

. Ideally it would be a blind hole so the bolt or threaded rod would bottom out, but if I put a stop on the top of whatever is being bolted down that should do the same thing


Just make it blind, make a 2 or 3 mm bottom on that, and put a pause on your print at the correct layer height (right before the bridging starts happening on top of the nut).

E, forgot this part: obviously, insert the nut while it's paused

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

Some Pinko Commie posted:

Blind holes and helicoil inserts are your friends.

Nuts (as long as they are bigger than M4 or so) are significantly stronger on 3d prints at least. Square nuts even better, for Kaiser's use I may even through tap a bar of aluminum or steel and then design around that for ultimate strength; the bar would do most of the holding while the plastic, preferably something stiff like cf embedded PC (or PLA, Kaiser does woodworking so cf pla is a good candidate for jigs and other things he might come up with while being stupid easy to print) does the centering.

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