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Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
I am trying my hand at modeling a threaded container with lid, with the added caveat that I want a bump out on both components w/ a hole that I can use to add a simple lock.



My workflow in fusion360 was :

1) Model the container
2) Model the lid as a new component w/ the sketch off the top of the container
3) I extruded the lid 10mm towards the container (The image shows this moved out of the way)
The expectation here is that I will thread the inside of the lid the same as the top of the container, but only for the same 10mm
4) I created a bump out on the lid, and I intend to project that part of the sketch down to the container. The bump on each side will have a half circle completing the hole

The problem atm is that the rectangle sketch does not have the outer wall of the container, so I can't trim the rectangle to the wall properly.

Am I correct in assuming each bump out must exist on its own component to attach properly?
I am also doing the threads this way as I want the bump to index properly when the lid is screwed down. Its kinda useless if they dont align.

Does this workflow make sense? Examples i have seen model the two separately, and I want to assure they line up. I guess I should ask is there a proper way to index created threads ?

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Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

Dance Officer posted:

The workflow makes reasonable sense. I'm not sure what the exact problem is but if you're looking to extrude the bump from the lid into the bin, you can start a sketch from the underside of the container and use the project geometry function to get the shape of the bump into the sketch, and then you should be able to extrude.

My original issue with separate lids and containers was with colored gradient FDM filament. A red to gold gradient on the container did not line up with the lid since the starting point of the threads appeared to be different. With the tabs aligning to make a hole for adding a lock, its paramount that when i screw the lid on, it lines up. Not having luck on how to assure that

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
All great advice I'll work on tonight. I thought I can mitigate this by threading the objects at the same time, and then splitting them, but I don't think that would work here.

The object at the moment is just a simple cylinder so its a quick thing to remake and print to test.

meowmeowmeowmeow posted:

I'm not a fusion guy but assuming you'll be doing a sweep around a helix to make the thread profile,


Fusion actually keeps it very simple. Just add threads to a surface and adjust diameter / spacing ,etc It might be a little TOO simple for use cases such as mine, but i wonder if aggregating the advice above its best to:

  • Make the lid and container separately
  • Thread the container top and lid ID approprately.
  • Pick a spot on one where the threads are starting as the center of my tab
  • Use the same spot on the other part, and in THEORY they should be aligned.

Roundboy fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Feb 21, 2024

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Im 3d printing it so the manufacturing is dead simple.

In my understanding , the start (or end) of the threads should line up, resulting in a cap in any position ending up fully tightened and properly indexed. The key is figuring out the offset from the start of the helix.

I have never seen a container modeled as a single part, always as a separate lid and body, but nobody really cares about clocking/indexing. I have been asked for other containers I designed to have the ability to be locked / secured. Not really unbreakable, just to keep people from casually opening the container. I also thought about matching slots top and bottom to make sure of a sloppy indexing but I would like to keep it as air tight as possible.

All in all something so simple turns out to be a good challenge being away from CAD modelling for a long while. There is almost nobody wanting to do something like this based on some extensive google searching as well. (At least in fusion or solidworks)

I guess I can ask another way, How would you go about making a threaded container with the ability to have a lock added ? (think simple padlock)

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Its not pretty, but it was a simple test to test my assumptions and see where i need to move on from here



I probably do not like the horizontal cutout, vertical will be what the final version will look like
Need to play with tab sizing, waiting on the print to finish to gauge size / add fillet or chamfer


Unexpected: The OD is 50mm, the walls were a simple 3mm offset inwards. The lid threads are 45x4.5 but making the identical thread on the top of the base resulted in me needing to make the base walls thicker to account for the threading. In my mind i expected the 3mm thick walls to handle the threads needed. I need to look at some other 3 printed containers to see if this is the same way. I'll have an over thick base if that is the case to keep it all lines up.

Its just math i need to play with, but im more interested in how the threads line up

EDIT: Hard to explain, but if i make a 55 OF container, then offset inwards 4mm. I have a 4mm thick wall. I extrude a 2mm base up, then the walls only up 20mm. If i thread that outer wall, it shrinks the whole OD of the part to fit the threads rather then leave a shelf, even though i only am partially threading. I have a constraint on the sketch, do I have to make the threaded part a new part joined to the body? This seems like a weird feature.

I also think i solved the indexing by making the threads, aligning the parts, then manually turning the lid until i see the threads align. Then i can draw my tabs.

Roundboy fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Feb 22, 2024

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
In case anyone is still following this : Success






Learned a lot about threading and minimum thickness needed for threads, and order of operations. The threads can use a clean up, and the default metric threads are suited for metal, not 3d printing so i have been offsetting the face of the threads back and adding a fillet. still needs a bit of work, and i also see the need to add in a bit of dead space above the threads. extrude 15mm and thread 10-12mm of it depending.

Bottom line:

Make the container
Thread the container.
Fit them together and manually rotate one until they line up
Add your extra bits.

Any changes to threads will require you to rotate again, but oddly enough its always 180 degrees or so

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
A while back I posted about trying to make a threaded cylinder with the ability to add a lock. This resulted in a long journey to figure out how to clock threads.

Long story short it all just boils down to rotating things until it lines up, but it's not quite there for me. I'm skipping ahead to removing the threads and adding some sort of positive locking system. Basically a slide lock type thing where I know exactly every time where it will end up.

I have a prototype, but my mechanism is still too tight. Are there any guidelines on designing this? Straight path, tampered path? Champer vs fillets, where to add relief,etc? Otherwise I am making incremental changes , printing, then repeat

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

Post some pictures of what you're doing, that's way too complicated to figure out in words.

I have a bottom cup and lid. Both OD are the same for a flush, straight wall look, I did not extrude the top/bottom lid yet. And I only did the one part, I will pattern copy around as i get it set up correctly

I have made a female notch in the bottom :



And a male peg in the top lid:




This should allow the top lid to come down, and then rotate to a fixed point, locking it to the bottom.
My method was to create the sketch as 2 separate rectangles and extrude them to the object. One to cut and one to positive extrude but i can already see that the cutout does not follow the radius properly. its shallower as the distance increases (Totally makes sense, this was a 2d rectangle projected)

I think that a revolve would be what i need here, but I am unsure how to make sure both parts are aligned correctly if not from the same sketch.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
I had chamfer/ fillet/relief in a model I lost to a fusion crash (and never saved) so this was a quick reproduction of my workflow (fusion360)

When I was threading these parts together, I had good luck with the OD and nearly invisible seam between the two, so long as I left a slight relief above the female threads in the lid. This also makes it insanely difficult for outside features to line up, hence my attempt here

As a first attempt, I would be happy to have a consistent lockup where the bayonet is being consistently stopped at the same spot each time, so I can add an external feature to both halves that line up. I could then work on a bit of actual lock up/tightening later

It's all a fun experience as I know some of this stuff, but the rest comes with a ton of trial/error/ time

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Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

Success !





Required a LOT of minor tweaking, a good portion was Fusion360 quirks. My workflow here was to:
* make circle and off set sketch
* extrude 'inner' wall +5mm above 'outer' wall
* extrude the lid from a sketch based on the new top lip
* on the bottom, sketch the bayonet tab profile constrained to edges
* revolve 20 degrees for the tab as a new body
* revolve the same profile 50 degrees for the slot
* Combine cut the tab out of the lid profile
* sketch the tab profile from the top and extrude down for the entry slot
* Offset the crap out of every face and chamfer / fillet
* circle pattern the tab and slot around.
*Add top to the lid and floor to the bottom
* revolve the lid until the tab is in the max rest position
* sketch and extrude the lock tab externally for the lid and bottom



It was frustrating tweaking the offset and having it break future chamfers / rounds and I am probably still due for some part relief. it initially stuck together but works fine after a couple turns back and forth which I assume is some printing artifacts on the edges that remain, or seams ,etc. I would love to constrain it a bit better as it will break if i alter the diameter or height to much, and selecting 30 faces to offset .25mm or so really sucks.

Version 2 I can incorporate some tweaks and really drive in the parametric nature of the part. Maybe a small relief for an o-ring on the lid interface.

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